your typical 1 ton XJ build thread

Skipper51 said:
Nice build. Good to have a place to leave it on blocks while you work on it.
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yes it's great! but the damned dude is out of town at work all week so I'm limited to weekends for now :thumbdn:

GordoSmasho said:
Did you use a jig to mark those holes out? Going to be doing this soon but not sure I want to spent the money for a jig from iro
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yeah the IRO jig, probably photographed on pg3. I'm actually renting out the IRO jig for $10 each. it's currently with red letter member AlphaQup, but shipping on it is like $20 both ways.. let me know if you wanna borrow it or something lol

831_xj said:
What ya doin with the 30? Could use it in my 87 build
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sorry, axles are sold tonight
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
yes it's great! but the damned dude is out of town at work all week so I'm limited to weekends for now :thumbdn:



yeah the IRO jig, probably photographed on pg3. I'm actually renting out the IRO jig for $10 each. it's currently with red letter member AlphaQup, but shipping on it is like $20 both ways.. let me know if you wanna borrow it or something lol
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I was thinking that I could ship it to the next renter to save the $12 on shipping it back to you
 
went to blue collar supply and scored this perfect piece of steal for $75

2' x 4' - 1/4" steel

started to make the belly pan





so glad to finally be doing some welding that is not uniframe related



then I went to ruffstuff and picked up my 3 link kit

3 - 4ft sticks of 2" 1/4wall DOM
4 - 1.25" heims x 5/8
2 - poly bushings 9/16
2 - leaf hangers to hold my bushings
1 - axle adjustable upper arm bracket

$530. so the grand total for my 3 link and belly pan is about $610 + materials

 
So jelly of your nice flat belly .
 
Looks awesome man. Do you have plans to add any sort of bracing to the belly pan to support it where those link mounts are?
 
Jeep450r said:
Looks awesome man. Do you have plans to add any sort of bracing to the belly pan to support it where those link mounts are?
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all sorts of plans to add strength in the right places. I plan to spend way too much time on this
homersimpson.gif
 
AlphaQup said:
That's a nice skid. Did you just cut into one side and fold it?
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thanks. I'd say it's about 20% of the way done. yeah just hit it with a cutoff wheel, then a big grinder wheel, then the cutoff again. clamped it down tight to a big work bench and pretty much sat on it until it bent. I've gone through 6 cutoff wheels and 2 grinder wheels so far. and they're the expensive ones :banghead:
 
the only way to buy cut off wheels, grinder discs, & flat wheels is in bulk packs of 100 pcs.
ask me how i know...:banghead:

i like your idea of cutting half way through the plate & welding it on the inside. i'll have to remember that trick.
how do you plan to reinforce the belly skid?
i used 3/8" plate on my red p.o.s. since the 1/4" t&t skid on my green xj has been bent upwards a couple times causing me to pull it & press it back to flat.
 
Flat plate will bend. Even 3/8" plate. A piece of angle, dropped down so both legs are on the plate, will help. The same angle, with one leg vertical and the other away from the plate, is better. Two pieces of angle back to back in a T-section is better still. A piece of channel, open section towards the plate, or a piece of box tube, will be similar but will have hidden areas that may not get painted...if you paint your fabrications. A fabricated T-section frees you from the constraints of purchased shapes. Deeper is better, as long as it fits. The web can be reasonably thin, as long as you don't get into buckling territory.
 
Phil said:
Flat plate will bend. Even 3/8" plate. A piece of angle, dropped down so both legs are on the plate, will help. The same angle, with one leg vertical and the other away from the plate, is better. Two pieces of angle back to back in a T-section is better still. A piece of channel, open section towards the plate, or a piece of box tube, will be similar but will have hidden areas that may not get painted...if you paint your fabrications. A fabricated T-section frees you from the constraints of purchased shapes. Deeper is better, as long as it fits. The web can be reasonably thin, as long as you don't get into buckling territory.
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Good advice. That's basically how I added bracing to my TnT bellypan - used sections of angle iron.
 
hmm. my T&T pan that I got from jon held up great for the 3 months I had it. I did plan on adding reinforcement but theres only so much room up there.. I plan to get the general shape and start mocking up the arms then add bracing.

I was thinking of adding in some bracing that goes back from the link mounts, then tie it into the frame tie ins (there will be tabs coming up from the skid to sandwich the frame rail, bolt goes in from the outside and the nut will go on a tab coming up from the skid on the inner side of the frame rail)

we will see. mostly, I just wanted to get it mocked up for now. either way, I WANT THIS SKID TO BE STRONG! thanks guys. I'll get more work done next weekend
 
when i build my suspension i fabbed up 2x4 tube crossmember for the front link mounts asd a second one for the rear link mounts. my 3/8 belly skid then ties both of the crossmembers together. not sure if you have seen it or care, but i have lots of build pics on my craptastic blog thread.
 
knucklehead 61 said:
when i build my suspension i fabbed up 2x4 tube crossmember for the front link mounts asd a second one for the rear link mounts. my 3/8 belly skid then ties both of the crossmembers together. not sure if you have seen it or care, but i have lots of build pics on my craptastic blog thread.
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I have seen yours. I'll have to flip through your thread one more time. I'm trying to model the old style T&T pan a bit but I still need ideas
 
the forces are very different on a 3 link compared to a y link.
link mounts need to be rock solid & braced in all planes so they do not tear off. i would be afraid of just mounting them to plate, unless it was 1/2" but that would weigh a ton & still flex without a strongback reinforcement.
my front crossmember mounts to the 6 factory bolt holes...that i tapped to 1/2", along with 2 extras i tapped, as well as 4 sleeved horizontal bolts, plus the tie in to the rear crossmember with the bellypan. i like overkill.
 
woah. yeah your crossmembers are freakin intense man http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1042976&page=19
I'll get more progress done this weekend and we can go from there. I'm really worried about space but I think I've got some good ideas on how to make these mounts good and strong.
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
well this is super depressing. look what my buddy just sent me a picture of

my old jeep rotting away in a field somewhere. maybe some day I'll cross paths with it again and turn it into a buggy

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There is something just not right about this :cry:
 
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