Another overland/crawler build

[DocTremp]

I really like those method wheels, they look good. What size are your tires?

Thanks! They’re 37/12.50R17, BFG KM3


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[ruthlessone3k]

I'm assuming those are full width axles???

 

[DocTremp]

I'm assuming those are full width axles???

Yes. Same width as the ones you have though, unless they’ve been shortened. I agree with Smokeyyank, don’t get a kit. Get a crossmember with mounts or the Stinkyfab kit and set your own links up. As for the rear Id get shackle relocation boxes, my shackle angles are terrible.


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[XJlimitedx99]

I was planning on 37" tires, but I'm now seeing a lot of people saying a D44 wont handle them.

RCV's or chromoly shafts and you'll be good.

Next question is, what springs for the rear?

Deavers are the top dog. Alcans are also very good. Iron Rock Offroad makes a nice spring as well.

I don't really know how much lift I need to clear the 37's on full width axles (with minimal trimming of course)

You're probably gonna want to be in the 5"-6" lift range. IMO its better to cut sheetmetal than to lift higher.

So what spring/shackle/relocation brackets/ect will give me adequate lift and great flex?

I am currently redoing my rear end. I have HD Offroad Engineering's no-lift shackle relocation brackets, and I'm installing Iron Rock Offroad's 3.5" springs with Clayton shackles. I may end up using a leaf from my old bastard pack as an add-a-leaf if the IRO leafs end up being too soft.

I really like those method wheels, they look good. What size are your tires?

I'm currently leaning towards the BDS long arm lift, they say the 6.5" will clear 33's and the 8.5" will clear 35's (both state *trimming may be required*). I'm debating which to go with. I'm leaning towards the 6.5" for the low center of gravity. At the same time, I don't want to be rubbing every time I flex a little bit. I'm planning on some aggressive trimming, but Im trying to stay away from a full comp cut for now. I'm hoping I can get away with it using full width axles.

The full width axles will help keep your tires out of the inner fenders, but you may need to trim higher on the outer sheet metal. You can pretty much disregard any "6.5" will clear 33's" sales pitch because you're going for a total custom setup. I'm not very up-to-speed with the current offerings on long arm kits, but I will say I love my TnT crossmember because its just a huge belly skid plate.

 

[ruthlessone3k]

Yes. Same width as the ones you have though, unless they’ve been shortened. I agree with Smokeyyank, don’t get a kit. Get a crossmember with mounts or the Stinkyfab kit and set your own links up. As for the rear Id get shackle relocation boxes, my shackle angles are terrible.


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I'm planning on the ironman relocation box and mount. I'm not so confident in the strength of the factory mounts. Mine are in great shape, but they are still just thin pieces of steel.

 

[ruthlessone3k]

I wont be going with RCV or Chromoly until I get the Jana54 conversion, or tons. I'd rather change shafts than ring and pinion.

Those deaver springs are nice, but at $855.68 they are a little more than I want to spend on leaf springs right now. I haven't decided yet whether the rear will stay on leafs, or go to 4-links. If I decide to stay on leafs, I may get those later.

As for 6.5" vs 8", I'm going to put it on the lift tomorrow, and play with the height, and put some 38" tires beside it and see what it looks like.

 

[SlowXj]

Follow nate from dirt lifestyle on YouTube. He runs 40s on a hp44 ford with rcvs and a good running tdi..thing... I think he's broken a front shaft twice and a few issues with the locker.... correct me if I'm wrong. I believe he even swapped to stickies a while back in the summer season.

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[ruthlessone3k]

I pulled the trigger on the Rusty's 6.5" long arm 4-link lift, a full set of Barnes frame stiffeners, 2x6 rocker replacements, and an HD shackle mount. Tomorrow I'm ordering the next venture D44 swap truss and probably the sye and hydro assist if I can figure out exactly what I need.

 

[smokeyyank]

I pulled the trigger on the Rusty's 6.5" long arm 4-link lift, a full set of Barnes frame stiffeners, 2x6 rocker replacements, and an HD shackle mount. Tomorrow I'm ordering the next venture D44 swap truss and probably the sye and hydro assist if I can figure out exactly what I need.

Hopefully your links match up. On my MJ I swapped in a D44 front and had a kit but links didn't align so had to fab them anyways.

For a SYE JB makes a decent one
https://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np231j_std_sye.php

If you have a 242
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/np-242j-sye-kit.html

Hydro you can look at these guys
https://www.westtexasoffroad.com/

Or get a box from redhead or bluetop that's tapped or DIY. I'd look at the WJ durango swap along with it.

 

[ruthlessone3k]

I'm not too worried about the links matching up. They should, but if they don't I can fabricate my own or make adjustments on the truss.

I didn't get around to ordering the sye yet, but I'll probably stick to Adams Driveshaft for it. I've dealt with them several times in the past and it's always went very well.

Now for hydro assist, I'll probably go the DIY route. However, The redhead and bluetop boxes are completely new to me, so I may go that route after some research. I can't believe I've never heard of those before. Thanks for the tip.

 

[smokeyyank]

Yep, I just put a redtop on my WJ. No issues and tightened up my steering tremendously.

 

[ruthlessone3k]

Is the redtop ported on the ends like the DIY, or does it have additional ports on the casting?

 

[smokeyyank]

Should just be tapped in the casing same as the diy. I've honestly never run hydro so can't comment too much. Believe the biggest advantage of redhead box is it's fully rebuilt, tapped and ready to drop in.

 

[89Mock]

Hi guys, new here, but been a jeeper for a few years, already have a YJ and a JKU, just got my first XJ, a 2000 XJ Sport with a 98' engine and an automatic transmission.

My plan for it is an overlanding rig and rock crawler combo. Originally I had planned on just building it into a full V8 trail rig, but now overlanding is in the plans.

I'm postponing an LS swap for now, due to time constraints (I'm also building a house), and I'm not sure turning 40's with the 4.0 and an automatic is going to work. What size tires and gearing would you suggest for a crawler that still has to drive on the highway? Would 37's work or would 35's be better suited to the powertrain?

I'm picking up one tons on Monday, a Dana "super" 60 and a sterling. They currently have 3.73 gears in them, so regearing will probably be necessary. I'm ok with getting an atlas t-case or similar, if necessary.

This brings me to my suspension. I need to build it for my axles and my rear springs are already shot. I'm thinking 4-link in the front and maybe 63" leafs in the rear for now. Not really wanting to move the gas tank for a stretch yet. I'm open to suggestions though.

Also planning on replacing the rockers with 2x6 or 2x8(2x4+2x4)box steel sliders, and of course frame stiffeners. Any advice on frame stiffeners would be greatly appreciated. I'll be ordering those as soon as I figure out which ones are currently the best option.

Thanks.

I'm about to start a one tone swap. Honestly, if I could do it over I'd call up ironman and talk to them about it. If their setup would work for a 1 ton swap it would be so much easier.

I went with Ruffstuff stiffeners for the mid and front. The mid isn't fun to weld. It's hard to get the stiffeners tight against the unibody then also be in a comfortable place to weld. Spend a lot of time doing prep work.
https://www.roarksupply.com/category-s/424.htm
These are your friend.

Figure out what gears and tires you're running, then go with lockers. I went with Yukon Grizzly front nd rear. On the street with 35s and a Sterling 10.25 it's NOTHING like a lunchbox locker. It's quiet. so quiet I actually went to dirt to test it. I plan on going to 40s and I'm running 4.10s. It's going to suck and I know it. I might change to 5.13s in the future, but this is 75% toy and 25% mall crawler for me.

also figure out brakes. I'm slightly concerned my brakes (upgraded tow WJ booster and master) won't be enough for tons on the street and I'll have to drive like Grandpa. We shall see.

 

[Evan03]

Axle end coil over mount is a few inches forward of axle Center line to clear Master cylinder.
Shocks are leaning towards motor 5deg and toward Center of jeep 5deg.

Its a 3link. I have no running slow on rocks or bashing the desert at speed.

Coil tower System unbolts from 1/4" plated frame sides and fire wall.

I have a tube bender with a 180 deg 5"clr die but decided to go this rout.

These are 12" shocks. 14s would fit give me alittle more droop but were unavaible actually these 12" kings were virtually the only coilovers avable.

They are tuned by accutune to my specs wants desires aswell as tire size suspension geometry actual weight.

No creaks growns or noises from coilover Towers though my frame tried to rip apart at the steering box. Its fixed now hopefully. Ive maybe gotten over the go fast in the rough stuff stage.

My rear is on fox ifp shocks and is severely unbalanced compsred to the incredible handling in the front.

Good luck and have fun with it.

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[ruthlessone3k]

I'm about to start a one tone swap. Honestly, if I could do it over I'd call up ironman and talk to them about it. If their setup would work for a 1 ton swap it would be so much easier.

I went with Ruffstuff stiffeners for the mid and front. The mid isn't fun to weld. It's hard to get the stiffeners tight against the unibody then also be in a comfortable place to weld. Spend a lot of time doing prep work.
https://www.roarksupply.com/category-s/424.htm
These are your friend.

Figure out what gears and tires you're running, then go with lockers. I went with Yukon Grizzly front nd rear. On the street with 35s and a Sterling 10.25 it's NOTHING like a lunchbox locker. It's quiet. so quiet I actually went to dirt to test it. I plan on going to 40s and I'm running 4.10s. It's going to suck and I know it. I might change to 5.13s in the future, but this is 75% toy and 25% mall crawler for me.

also figure out brakes. I'm slightly concerned my brakes (upgraded tow WJ booster and master) won't be enough for tons on the street and I'll have to drive like Grandpa. We shall see.

The Ironman setup will definitely "work" with one tons, I've seen it. However, as with any one ton swap, there is going to be some fabrication.

I've got the full set of frame stiffeners from barnes4wd, they came in Saturday, I'm just waiting for the weather to break so I can do the work. I'm covering everything in POR-15, and it's too cold right now.

Since I'm running 37's and decided to buy a 78-79 F250 D44 and D60 instead of super duty axles, I'm not locking the front. The gears are already 5.13 and the rear is already a lunchbox.

I don't think the brakes are going to be too bad, I am going to upgrade the master cylinder though. I understand there is a certain master cylinder out of a dodge van that should work.

 

[smokeyyank]

The van upgrade is a hydroboost IIRC. It's a ton of work to get it in there but a solid upgrade. Otherwise the upgrade is just the dual diaphragm but it's only an upgrade for early models which you do not have.

 

[ruthlessone3k]

The van upgrade is a hydroboost IIRC. It's a ton of work to get it in there but a solid upgrade. Otherwise the upgrade is just the dual diaphragm but it's only an upgrade for early models which you do not have.

Thanks for the info, I'll look at other options.

 

[ruthlessone3k]

Just ordered 37" Patagonias and pro comp bullet holes.

 

[DocTremp]

As far as master cylinder goes, you need something that will push enough volume to actuate the much larger pistons in the calipers. I have a MC from a 99 Durango that others on here have used successfully. That is if you don’t do hydroboost.


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