Build: "full body" tons and 40s

[Evan03]

You do know your lower link near axle centerline will rip off due to the axle putting to much leverage on the bracket.

Im joking. I did the same and was told theyd never survive.

I would cycle the suspension and see what exactly happens with castor and pinion angle with upper so much shorter. My gut says it probly perfectly good to go.

Looking awesome

Did you call FOA yet? Might be a wash cost of plate vs coilovers not to mention time.

Since your streched coil tower should be plenty far enough away from Laster cylinder.



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[89Mock]

Check everything at full bump then with one side stuffed and the other dropped down as far as you can get it. Check steering at full lock and full stuff and everything else you can think of. I didn’t and almost realy screwed myself when I put 40 on it.

 

[DrivnXJ]

Nice. Still surprised you aren't doing a multi-link rear. I would think it would flex significantly better than leaves.

Maybe I will one day....but I already bought leafs, mounts, shackles, u bolt elim perches, shock towers etc. Stretching the rear as far as I can, with what I have. It would take a pretty good deal for me to get a link set for rear. Prices are way up from when I bought all the stuff I already have.

Have you put in a mock up drag link and track bar and lifted the axle up to full compression?

Played around with some PVC and "think" im gonna clear everything. The track bar mount will have to be cut down. Hopefully my next update will be with the rest of the links in. Still plating with this coil bucket and have no idea what im doing

You do know your lower link near axle centerline will rip off due to the axle putting to much leverage on the bracket.

Im joking. I did the same and was told theyd never survive.

I would cycle the suspension and see what exactly happens with castor and pinion angle with upper so much shorter. My gut says it probly perfectly good to go.

Looking awesome

Did you call FOA yet? Might be a wash cost of plate vs coilovers not to mention time.

Since your streched coil tower should be plenty far enough away from Laster cylinder.



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My upper link is actually longer. From what I see, that should keep the diff pointed at the tcase thru suspension cycle. Likely wont matter much (for me) on the street.

No coilovers for me at this time unfortunately. Im pretty lucky to have what I have. This 3/8 plate was freebie been sittin in the yard for years lol. Question: On the front coil buckets you think am I OK to level the bucket? I ask because it seems the factory buckets are angled. Obviously my application is now way different, but asking before I burn it in.

Check everything at full bump then with one side stuffed and the other dropped down as far as you can get it. Check steering at full lock and full stuff and everything else you can think of. I didn’t and almost realy screwed myself when I put 40 on it.

Great advice! I will take heed.
So far ive had to notch the frame and move the upper link mount on axle over another inch to keep it off the starter.

Working with jacks and stands is slow going. Think im gonna find more limits pretty quickly when the 40s go on.

 

[DrivnXJ]

Had a little time to get out there today.

Looks like the drag link is 37" eye to eye. Ive seen a couple complaints on the artec truss track bar mount not being far enough out on the axle...I see why now.

I can get the link angles the same and they are parallel...





But "frame" side mount is gonna have to hang out a bit. Any problem with this?

 

[DrivnXJ]

I should specify, the track bar mount has to hang out to match the 37" drag link length.

 

[Anak]

I can tell you that with a stock spring location that track bar mount would absolutely not work. It is the coil spring that interferes with my track bar mount.

However, you have moved things around to a pretty significant extent, so maybe that won't matter for your situation.

 

[DrivnXJ]

I can tell you that with a stock spring location that track bar mount would absolutely not work. It is the coil spring that interferes with my track bar mount.

However, you have moved things around to a pretty significant extent, so maybe that won't matter for your situation.

Let me know what you think. I wont be using any of the factory coil spring buckets or mounts. That factory mount there will get cut out and shock mount installed there.




What I am curious about is, should I "level" my new upper coil buckets? Or do they need to have some angle for some mathematical reason that I dont know in regards to the arc of the droop etc :looney:

 

[DrivnXJ]

Merry Xmas weekend bros.

 

[Anak]

Provided the lower spring perch is directly beneath that upper spring perch then I don't see you having interference issues with between the spring and the track bar mount. However, the next thing I would wonder about is potential interference between the tire or rim at full lock and full stuff. It might be a good idea to at least mock up the stub shaft/unit bearing/brake caliper and mount the tire/wheel, then play around with the range of motion.

 

[DrivnXJ]

Ill be sure to check with tire on and report back. Hoping for the best ha!

Got out this morning for a bit, got the oem coil bucket cut out. Started to plate the hole back in. I put a nice bend in the plate and hammered to shape all around...I think its pretty strong. Shock mount should go here somewhere later.



Not done yet and yea not exactly pretty. It will all get seam sealer and raptor lined anyway.

 

[Evan03]

I would match the bucket angle the factory has spring move in a slight arch following control arm arc path.

Wait you could make a heim joint located upper bucket the follows on compression and extension

It probly doesnt matter since it unseats on extension.
Thinking about it more I think id just put it so eveything looks good at rideight and maybe favor compression since unseated spring wont matter.

Your doing amazing take your time and plan on cutting things apart atleast ounce.

Ohhh I wouldnt hang the track bar out like that. Since they are located at the same spot on the axle. Even if exactly the same length they wont swing in exactly the same arc path.
I did the same as you and made my track bar same as drag link. At extrem articulation you can see they arent perfectly parallel but at ride height they are.

No bump steer or flex steer. The thing drives better than my dodge pickup. Push that bracket up tight and burn it. Well after you set bar parallel

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[DrivnXJ]

I apologize for the delay. Had some extended issues as well as strep throat that almost killed me. Finally things are smoothing out, im dying to get this "done"

Cool update pertaining to the garage tho. My better half got some bonus money and surprised me with a 2 post lift ive been wanting for years.

This was also a part of the delay because I wasn't expecting it at all. When it showed up I could not wait to install it. Had to clear out the main bay in the garage and it took some work.

Yea its just a "cheap" 10k amazon lift, but this is some life goals for me haha
Naturally I immediately brought the beater in for some exhaust repair and it was absolutely awesome. In which I would never say the last 2 times ive replaced the exhaust on it on the ground! Let alone a lifetime of working on the ground/gravel etc.



Ill get back on track soon. Really need to get the coil buckets done and the rear leafs in so I can roll the thing at least. But of course I dont know what im doing so its a struggle haha. Thx bros.

 

[maxbraketorque]

Cool.

 

[Evan03]

Thats awesome. Dang it now im research 2 post lifts.

10k will lift my pickup

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[DrivnXJ]

So far its been awesome! Im sure there are better models out there, but this lift should suit a regular joe pretty well.

Finally back on it.

Got the coil bucket welded up and burned in. Also mocked up the track bar mount. Was able to get the angles pretty dang close...hopefully its ok for this weekend warrior.

 

[DrivnXJ]

Slowly but surely. Got the other side fixed up. Oem coil bucket out, new beef in.

About a 6" stretch in the front. This completes the front "mock up". Gonna move to the rear next and figure out where leaf mounts are gonna go (as far back as possible)

 

[DrivnXJ]

Alright guys, need some advice please.

Im attempting to get the rear leaf mounts/springs under the rear.
All the original mounts are gone. My goal is to stretch the rear as far as possible.

I was able to harness all my brain power to use the leaf spring eye to eye mount calculator and come up with a 48.75" eye to eye distance.

Does this look ok? I have the rear mount all the way back past the rear "bumper" as it needs to be flush on the side on the frame rail. The front mount needs about 1/2" spaced off the frame rail to keep the spring straight with the rear mount.

When mounted like this, with no weight on it....the leaf shim on the bottom of the pack is not level...its pointed toward the Tcase. Is this correct? Any advice you guys have would be greatly appreciated.


The location of these mounts is pretty much factory height, just moved back. (mounts just tacked in, they will be fully boxed/integrated later)

 

[maxbraketorque]

Having the shackle vertical in an unsprung condition is a reasonable start. Have you calculated the shackle angle when rear suspension is at ride height and when the leaf goes flat?

 

[DrivnXJ]

My leaf is 52.5" long...shackle 5.25" and desired shackle angle at ride height is 45 degree. This makes the 2 leaf holes 48.75" spaced eye to eye. Hopefully thats correct?

 

[maxbraketorque]

I need two more pieces of info:

1) What do you expect to be the center-to-center distance between your leaf spring eyes at ride height?

2) What is the angle from level of the line drawn between the front leaf spring mounting point and the shackle mounting point (where it mounts to the body).