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My front frame hack up and rebuild

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xjjeeper19 said:
Pipe is for POOP...spend the money and get some HREW, or DOM.
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ha, pipe is for my exo cage too! talk bad all you want.... my buddy has a ranger we built a cage for out of schd 40 pipe and it has rolled down more hills than i can count. Still rockin on with only 1 piece of damage.
 
_MURDERED OUT_ said:
okay, took the front end apart and am putting it back together. Found out the front axle has been narrowed so now i have to take the rear axle's hubs back off and flip them around while pressing the wheel studs out and back in the other way.
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When you say narrowed, was it cut and rewelded, or is there a way to flip things around to narrow it similar to the rear axle?
 
Sniff, sniff.......I smell a challenge brewing.........Right-Coast vs Left-Coast Wheel-Off, anyone? :clap:
 
_MURDERED OUT_ said:
ha, pipe is for my exo cage too! talk bad all you want.... my buddy has a ranger we built a cage for out of schd 40 pipe and it has rolled down more hills than i can count. Still rockin on with only 1 piece of damage.
Click to expand...
are you planing on trying to go fast in your rig?? if you do, from an engineering stand point, PLEASE use tubing, i don't want another memorial thread on NAXJA!!! if you are going slow then the "PIPE" cage will do but if pipe was the "GOOD" choice then ( redneck voice )" you fellers NASCAR cages would be made at lows or the plumbing store" instead of hendricks motor sports!!! think about it, i get .120 wall 1.5in HREW for $9 a 20ft stick ( stronger, lighter and only $.75 more a stick than pipe) and .188 for $10 a stick

it is worth the effort and slight extra cost if you want to be truly safe ( but i used pipe for some things when i was going slow and before i had the pipe items fail when the tubing hasn't in rougher situations, i learned )

subscribing to this thread, keep up the outside the box thinking i like seeing the progression of peoples rigs, mine goes slower but it is progressing too
 
Israel said:
When you say narrowed, was it cut and rewelded, or is there a way to flip things around to narrow it similar to the rear axle?
Click to expand...

it is narrowed by cutting down the long side to accept a short side axle shaft. and yes you can narrow the track width by flipping the hubs in or out bringing the wheel mounting surface in or out 5" per side.

and i dont know where you buy tube for $9 a stick but around here its $55. And i can get the hook up by buying the stuff that's been laying around/ rusted up. My 2x4 was $180 new shiny, surface rusted $40. Big difference in price. And i will have to check on my prices for tube but from a dollar standpoint i'm leaning torwards pipe. And im only goin slow.
 
Ive seen a lot of rigs running poop pipe exo's survive some decent rollovers. the pipe did bend some and the integrity was out the window after one roll but it did hold up for that roll were as a bare roof may have collapsed in pretty bad.

pipe is better then nothing for a exo, NEVER use it as an internal, it is used only once and you dont try to use it on purpose and it is on a light rig.
so far it looks like just the axles will cush a poop pipe exo unless you use obscene amounts of pipe making it much more expensive then a hrew or dom cage.

Personally I dont care, it only affects you and your occupants, more parts at the scrap yard for me if you do roll.
Jeremy
 
Hey guys, if he wants to use poo pipe, let him. This is darwinism at it's finest! Let nature take it's course, and weed out the stupid people.

I also want to point out the jack stands on TOP of cinder blocks!



_MURDERED OUT_ said:
100_0874.jpg
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_MURDERED OUT_ said:
it is narrowed by cutting down the long side to accept a short side axle shaft. and yes you can narrow the track width by flipping the hubs in or out bringing the wheel mounting surface in or out 5" per side.

and i dont know where you buy tube for $9 a stick but around here its $55. And i can get the hook up by buying the stuff that's been laying around/ rusted up. My 2x4 was $180 new shiny, surface rusted $40. Big difference in price. And i will have to check on my prices for tube but from a dollar standpoint i'm leaning torwards pipe. And im only goin slow.
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i fully understand, i just have a good hookup i guess ..... LOL.....:greensmok
 
pulled the dana 44 out today and slid the rockwell to see what it would look like. Its sitting about where the 44 axle was so i got to move it forward a lot. and then put it on jack stands and start workin on spring mounts and links and stuff...
100_0878.jpg

100_0876.jpg

and i get to cut those damn radius arm mounts off about 3/4 of the way up. Im goin to use the very first few inches of them to mount tabs for my new front lower links to. Oh and still havent cut the remains of the front frame out either. Its been raining around here. Might do that next week...
 
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and my concrete parking area around my house is a disaster as you can see! I'm goin to have to clean that up someday....
 
I think your really ambitious but just by looking at how you did the radius mounts I can see how this ends.

I guess this is a phase some people need to go thru to learn?
 
in2fords said:
I think your really ambitious but just by looking at how you did the radius mounts I can see how this ends.

I guess this is a phase some people need to go thru to learn?
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those radius arm mounts hung waaaay low on the frame. They were built that way cuz this jeep used to have a huge amount of lift on it. I dropped it down 6" from what it was. Then we slapped it together to ride last summer, wasnt goin for looks was goin for function at least a little function may i clarify.

but thats cool, im just a booty fab expert i guess. oh well my shit will still work regardless of how it looks to yall... I guess that goes back to i'm building MY jeep not YOUR jeep.
And i'm not concerned about hangin my radius arm mounts up on rocks and stuff. I live in north mississippi, the only rocks i'm goin to crawl are the ones in my driveway...
 
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_MURDERED OUT_ said:
those radius arm mounts hung waaaay low on the frame. They were built that way cuz this jeep used to have a huge amount of lift on it. I dropped it down 6" from what it was. Then we slapped it together to ride last summer, wasnt goin for looks was goin for function at least a little function may i clarify.

but thats cool, im just a booty fab expert i guess. oh well my shit will still work regardless of how it looks to yall... I guess that goes back to i'm building MY jeep not YOUR jeep.
And i'm not concerned about hangin my radius arm mounts up on rocks and stuff. I live in north mississippi, the only rocks i'm goin to crawl are the ones in my driveway...
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please relax, we are just putting in our $.02 and have NO say in your build, just constructive criticism and advice!! build it as you will and we will wish you the best, good luck and build on!!!!
 
little touchy?

It is booty fab, like I said I dont care, I just like to point and laugh. your rig may beable to withstand a mud drag or 2 but it will be less functional and less reliable then a stock axled Heep locked with 3-4" lift and some decent M/T's.

The whole reason you havent heard me say dont do it is because its a good teaching aide. you will learn alot about fabrication, how to do things easier and how to do things correctly. You will learn what doesnt work and what isnt a good idea. Most of all you will learn how to diagnose things and fix it on the trail.

I say build on also, I honestly dont care what you do with this rig. I "hope" you keep it off the road but it still wont affect me if you do kill someone. The thing that is truly scary is that you say this will be a trailered toy, that means you have the may have capability to leave your town and get closer to mine. Hope fully you work on your tow rig the same way so i dont have to worry about it making it to my neck of the woods.
 
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ah, dear....




anyway i'll keep building and we will see what happens....
 
need a thread for the build and a seperate thread for hacking on his build
 
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