My 44/9" full width cherokee build

[Gravesdiggerxj]

I decided to beef up the lower control arm mounts. Here they are mocked up.

Now if I could get these lousy knuckles off. I could ream them over the knuckle for 1-ton ends.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

Fully welded up. Just need to clean it up and paint. I want to brace up a couple more things but almost done.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

jeep broke down so steering money just became fix-it money

 

[Mopar It]

what happened to the jeep

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

well it died on the freeway. it was missfiring all over the place and wouldn't stay running for more than 15 seconds. I replaced the CPS (had to lay in the snow at 10*) and thought that would fix it... nope, so I was about to change the O2 sensor, but I decided to break down and take it in... the distributor had come loose and was bouncing around causing the misfire.

I'm picking it up in a minute and my goal is to be done (minus gears and locker installs) Next week.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

I got a lot done tonight. atriot:
Got the Jeep back: I guess the distributor came loose and was bouncing up and down so that was the problem, weird huh? So 1 hour of labor wasn't too much $.
boxed the upper control arm mount ($6.42 strap steel)

The 44 has a huge lip so I gave it a shave

then filled in the gaps (I know it's mostly cosmetic)

Here is a quick writeup on some cheap diff armor.
I used the side of some 3/16 box steel I had laying around because the edge is cuved nice.
Tacked and bent then tacked and bent

Fully welded then added a side support and flapper smooth

and paint. It gives the diff a nice "ramp" to slide up.

cleaned up all the welds and primed the whole thing.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

Got a lot done last night. WJeeper and my bud Alex came by... Alex brought a brand new, huge, tube style , blower beast of a kerosene heater... so warm that I was in a t-shirt... (20* outside)

Got all new ball joints, 1 of the brakes, tie rod, wheel studs, spindle studs, rotors, and u-joints done.

Axleshafts in, wheel bearings, knuckles, caliper brackets, rotors, spindles, and hubs DONE worked till 2am... so no pics until tomorrow I'm toast

Now I need to figure out how those stupid Ford lockouts go back together (anyone have some warn hubs they want to give me?) and finish the brakes on the other side.

Then sling it under and measure for the draglink.

Working tonight and tomorrow again after snowboarding!

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

1-ton offset TRE vs standard TRE

Progress from last night (on one side)

Running Tally

Brake drums $28.50x2= $57
Brake lines and u-joints $20
Stainless braided brake line extension $fiftey-free$ (thanks Brad)
Brake shoes (Raysbestos 5year) $12
Wheels Cylinders (Rays) $12x2 = $24
Moper leaf spring perches (six states) $10
Paint and Primer $50+
Brake Fluid $4.99
Gear lube $12 (you need to change yours anyways)
Grinding wheels, flapper discs, welding wire (whatever)
Spidertrax wheel adapters (#WHS-004 for the front for now) $82
Longer driveshaft $31

Front

Steel (Wasatch steel) $16.67
Steel (Ace) $12.93
Wheel Bearing and caliper retainer clip $13.67
Spindle studs (six states) $17.22
Spindle nuts (Bolt and Nut) $3
Diff Fluid, Gasket maker $9.89
Reamed Knuckles and Tie Rod $201.47
Ball Joints, Brake Pads (Raysbestos)$121.62
Rotors, Wheel Studs $78.67
Brake cleaner, Brake Fluid $6.42
Paint $18.93

total $788.23

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

I couldn't figure out how to put Ford manual hubs back together and they are chintzy with about 20 peices, so I picked up a set of Warn Premiums from the yard. We also picked up and 8.8 for someone here... I'll let them tell you when they're ready.
So I got the axle all together tonight. :headbanger:
What I learned is that you can't put the axle retainer clips on the end of the axleshafts with spindle spacers and Warn hubs because of the extra width.

 

[ranger125]

sweet man

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

Old axle is out and new one in, and I set the caster.

But as I anticipated the front driveshaft is too long and bottoms out under full compression so I couldn't set the trackbar or measure for the draglink...

Good news is that the d30 banjo bolts work perfect. Pics tonight

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

http://www.crownautomotive.net/catalog/axle/propeller_shafts2.html

Jeep/year/motor/trans/collased length/part #

XJ 87/88 2.5 Automatic 27.950" 53003912 (what I need)
XJ 89/93 2.5 Automatic 27.970" 53005540 (or this one)
XJ 89/01 2.5Manual 25.310" 53005541
XJ 89/01 4.0Automatic 30.660" 53005542 (Mine)

Looks like I need a 4.0 manual XJ front shaft or 2.5 auto XJ front shaft

 

[baseballneal86]

Lookin good. Makes me want to start swapping mine into the new XJ.

What knuckle, spindle, and outer shaft are you running? I don't know if you mentioned it earlier.

 

[redneck23ms]

why not just cut some out of your current driveshaft? its not hard to cut out the desired amount and weld it back together. and since you have lockouts you don't even have to worry about balancing it. unless you plan on running at speed with the hubs locked.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

Lookin good. Makes me want to start swapping mine into the new XJ.

What knuckle, spindle, and outer shaft are you running? I don't know if you mentioned it earlier.

Ford knuckle, spindle and outer.

why not just cut some out of your current driveshaft? its not hard to cut out the desired amount and weld it back together. and since you have lockouts you don't even have to worry about balancing it. unless you plan on running at speed with the hubs locked.

Hmm... cutting down the front shaft, hadn't thought of that... I bought a shaft out of an 4.0L manual so it should be 2 in shorter but if that doesn't work I'll try that.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

Snowed quite a bit yesterday but I got the old one out and the new one in.

Hover Jeep

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

So I bolted up the new front shaft, and appears that it will work. (28.5" compressed, 88" 4.0 manual)

Got the axle all centered, I just need to fill the diff, work out a vent tube solution (needs a 90* elbow), drill out the UCA sleeve to a larger ID, get that drag-link built and bolt it up.

Tie rod is 55.25" and drag-link should be 35".

Drag-link and trackbar angles aren't perfect, but they'll work until I can fab up an over the axle trackbar mount... I want this thing back in the dirt!

 

[lost1]

no kidding....you must be itching like crazy by now. Looks great!

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

It should have been driveable last night...
Steering painted and it's in. Diff filled. Rear brakes bled.
but I ran into a couple snags,

I was bleeding the brakes and I went through a whole bottle on the driverside front... Piston is puking fluid... so I need a new caliper.
I used a stock XJ UCA rubber mount for my UCA axle mount... stock is 1/2" and the bolts I'm using are 9/16" so I had to try to drill the sleeve out... which smoked a expensive bit. Gonna have to buy a new bushing... lame. Then bolt up the UCA.
I need to chop my passenger side swaybar mount off and relocate it higher (not necessary to drive and I anticipated that a while ago)

add to the tally:
Caliper retainer clips $3
Draglink with 1-ton end and QA1 heim, and 2 sweet laser cut traction bar mounts $121
Driver side brake caliper $20 (lifetime warranty: Checker... I love old Ford stuff)
Total: 929.23

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

I'M DONE!
Drove it around last night! Rock on!
well I have a few little things that I want to fix, but I'm wheelin' in a 1/2 hour.
pics later!