- Location
- Poplar Grove, Illinois
-
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Started the Cherokee uprising.
- Thread starter Devilfrog
- Start date
Tacedaddy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Shenandoah valley
Im running the exact same shocks, I told autozone a 1988 commanche 4x4 and they handed me these
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Yeah, any year Comanche, last year was 92 so I let the parts guy go with that ... when he asked what they were for and I started to explain ... he got a glassy look in his eyes and I didn't want to hurt his brain overly much after that.
I just got cheapy Monroe's @ $30 ea CDN from Canadian Tire, which you won't find down your parts but basicly any parts store will have something similar.
I just got cheapy Monroe's @ $30 ea CDN from Canadian Tire, which you won't find down your parts but basicly any parts store will have something similar.
- Location
- Poplar Grove, Illinois
yea. thanks man i picked up a set of 4 yesterday for 72$ 
I'm going to wait on cash for some break lines and zj coils n put it all in.
thanks again.
I'm going to wait on cash for some break lines and zj coils n put it all in.
thanks again.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
So I sprung for some longer shocks Pro-Comp 924507's (spec'd for Colorado's and Wrangler JK's with 2.5" lift). 14.8" collapsed and 28.8" extended so I can get some more droop.
And ...
the XJ's Been at Karnage Fabworks for the last two days getting the WJ swap finished ... since I can't weld for shit and I live on the other side of town .... we worked a deal and I just drove over with a crap load of parts for the swap. Also getting the Crossmember replaced with something a little more sturdy and skid like ... and will use a GM trans mount I can almost buy at a 7-11. Will aslo have four 1/8" plate spacers to allow some bit of adjustability if needed.
Sprung for a new proper length 2" tube rear CV shaft, so my current cut down ZJ shaft will move to the front and replace my stocker with the worn out slip.
For the WJ swap we decided to go with the GM 1-ton ends (ES2010L, ES2010R, ES2026R, ES2027L) OTK and I'll be using a Synergy suspension double adjuster on the tie rod so we can add clearance bends where needed. then all the OTA brackets from there. All new parts will complete the front axle, and then I just need to do the rear wheel bearings, and motor mounts.
Can't wait for tomorrow .... three days without my XJ and having to tool around in my wifes JK ... gggaaaaccckkk! She didn't like it when I said my turdy old XJ handles better incomplete than her pretty Jeep. Pics to come.
Oh ... and I sprung for 5-90's wiring upgrade as well ...
And ...
the XJ's Been at Karnage Fabworks for the last two days getting the WJ swap finished ... since I can't weld for shit and I live on the other side of town .... we worked a deal and I just drove over with a crap load of parts for the swap. Also getting the Crossmember replaced with something a little more sturdy and skid like ... and will use a GM trans mount I can almost buy at a 7-11. Will aslo have four 1/8" plate spacers to allow some bit of adjustability if needed.
Sprung for a new proper length 2" tube rear CV shaft, so my current cut down ZJ shaft will move to the front and replace my stocker with the worn out slip.
For the WJ swap we decided to go with the GM 1-ton ends (ES2010L, ES2010R, ES2026R, ES2027L) OTK and I'll be using a Synergy suspension double adjuster on the tie rod so we can add clearance bends where needed. then all the OTA brackets from there. All new parts will complete the front axle, and then I just need to do the rear wheel bearings, and motor mounts.
Can't wait for tomorrow .... three days without my XJ and having to tool around in my wifes JK ... gggaaaaccckkk! She didn't like it when I said my turdy old XJ handles better incomplete than her pretty Jeep. Pics to come.
Oh ... and I sprung for 5-90's wiring upgrade as well ...
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Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Yes, '95 ZJ brackets and dust shields, ZJ park brake shoes, '06 TJ hardware kits, TJ discs, TJ calipers, TJ pads.
Just had to open the center hoole up slightly and I drilled out the stud holes slightly.
Just had to open the center hoole up slightly and I drilled out the stud holes slightly.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
The ZJ calipers are actually the same, it's the pads that differ. I needed new calipers when I did mine. The pads for the TJ are made to be used with the overriders. My brackets were gouged as well.
In reality the ZJ, TJ and Explorer rear brake kits are almost identical with very minor differences, the parts will interchange for the most part but the explorer and TJ pads were made to be used with the steel overriders ... which solves the bracket gouging issues, and makes repair a 2 second job.
In reality the ZJ, TJ and Explorer rear brake kits are almost identical with very minor differences, the parts will interchange for the most part but the explorer and TJ pads were made to be used with the steel overriders ... which solves the bracket gouging issues, and makes repair a 2 second job.
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sweet information.
Looks like I'll just pick up the TJ pads when I do the swap and reuse the calipers and brackets.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
so just got my cherokee back from the shop .... WJ knuckle swap complete. She rides nice and smooth with no excessive bumpsteer even though the tracbar is shorter than the draglink. No DW and with all the new parts on the front, a cacophony of "jeep" sounds have gone away making it easy to diagnose to worn a rear driveshaft ujoint. Before it was 7 different moans, groans and whirs that reverberated and made picking out one issue nearly impossible.
No more steering stabilizer and she rolls true and tracks clean, rides better than my wifes JK.
We did notice an issue with the sway bar link mounts, and they had to "adjust" them on the spot with a big crecent wrench. but due to clearance issues we're trying to figure a proper way to fix it. I'll likley shift my sway bar forward to reduce some of the rake to the links and then we'll work on a better bracket. Problem is, the drag link gets too close to the spring on full lock to be able to run the mount behind it so forward it is. we noticed the tire rub on the test drive and massaged it enough to work for now so the link mounts ain't so purty anymore but they are thick enough to not bend more on their own. It's a work in progress on that one.
grabbed a few pics before it got too dark.
I have to roll back to Karnage on monday for a new crossmember/bellyskid so hopefully I can figure a decent solution for the sway bar links, my old ones are too long now that's for sure ... I'm hoping by moving the bar forward and using proper length links and a little more bracket massage we can make it work.
No more steering stabilizer and she rolls true and tracks clean, rides better than my wifes JK.
We did notice an issue with the sway bar link mounts, and they had to "adjust" them on the spot with a big crecent wrench. but due to clearance issues we're trying to figure a proper way to fix it. I'll likley shift my sway bar forward to reduce some of the rake to the links and then we'll work on a better bracket. Problem is, the drag link gets too close to the spring on full lock to be able to run the mount behind it so forward it is. we noticed the tire rub on the test drive and massaged it enough to work for now so the link mounts ain't so purty anymore but they are thick enough to not bend more on their own. It's a work in progress on that one.
grabbed a few pics before it got too dark.
I have to roll back to Karnage on monday for a new crossmember/bellyskid so hopefully I can figure a decent solution for the sway bar links, my old ones are too long now that's for sure ... I'm hoping by moving the bar forward and using proper length links and a little more bracket massage we can make it work.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Well, got me some Death Wobble ... Sorta ... I mean it was deffinitely death wobble. Happened on a shit road heading back from the dump. Had to almost stop to stop it.
But, then I drove out to Victoria and back (~125km return) without even so much as an issue. And the road to Victoria is windy, lumpy and covers some steep grades so it wasn't just a flat line roll.
Gonna have to investigate further, after I realign everything.
Beginning to think it may have been more a body oscillation than suspension ... Likely due to the swaybar links angles. I'll talk to the guys on monday about it though.
might go out to the same road later and try and replicate it again and this time pay more attention instead of "OH SHIT!!! WOBBLE!!!!" It was actually easily controlled. Iwas heading back.down a road I had already travelled up once on the way to the dump without issue. Then heading back hit a few.rough spots and away she went.
I'm thinking the combination of softer springs, old used front shocks and being out of alignment may be my culprit. Help I was up to 120 on the way to Vic and smooth as butter ... Ok so maybe some.slightly lumpy butter (it is a Jeep after all, not a corolla).
Anyway ran down to Victoria ...
Loaded up my new hood, rear springs and an HP30 $100 for it all, and a buddies np242 transfercase and headed back home ... Again without even so much as a hiccup.
Also noticed a knocking in turns on the passengerside under my foot (it felt like) so the trac bar may have rattled loose is another possible as well.
Not worried the guys will set it right.
But, then I drove out to Victoria and back (~125km return) without even so much as an issue. And the road to Victoria is windy, lumpy and covers some steep grades so it wasn't just a flat line roll.
Gonna have to investigate further, after I realign everything.
Beginning to think it may have been more a body oscillation than suspension ... Likely due to the swaybar links angles. I'll talk to the guys on monday about it though.
might go out to the same road later and try and replicate it again and this time pay more attention instead of "OH SHIT!!! WOBBLE!!!!" It was actually easily controlled. Iwas heading back.down a road I had already travelled up once on the way to the dump without issue. Then heading back hit a few.rough spots and away she went.
I'm thinking the combination of softer springs, old used front shocks and being out of alignment may be my culprit. Help I was up to 120 on the way to Vic and smooth as butter ... Ok so maybe some.slightly lumpy butter (it is a Jeep after all, not a corolla).
Anyway ran down to Victoria ...
Loaded up my new hood, rear springs and an HP30 $100 for it all, and a buddies np242 transfercase and headed back home ... Again without even so much as a hiccup.
Also noticed a knocking in turns on the passengerside under my foot (it felt like) so the trac bar may have rattled loose is another possible as well.
Not worried the guys will set it right.
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Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Picked up the tires/wheels I bought Thursday and swapped them on, much better than the oversized rice I had to run previously (sorry Sahara guys, but it is what it is).
Before
After
Before
After
- Location
- sacramento
ive read a lot of threads on the Wj swap and guys getting DW with a trackbar that is too short in comparrison with the drag link. For now ive kept my currie setup in the stock location since I didnt want to deal with trying to figure out any DW . I have no DW whatsoever after lots of driving. no swaybars, long arms, and an OTK insert for the driver side TRE but just enjoying the amazing brakes.
perhaps you have some warn componenets somewhere that you were unaware of. Also, loose trackbar or mount would cause DW . if my trackbar mount gets even a little loose i get serious DW .
perhaps you have some warn componenets somewhere that you were unaware of. Also, loose trackbar or mount would cause DW . if my trackbar mount gets even a little loose i get serious DW .
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
I noticed one of my UCA axle end brackets is slightly larger than it supposed to be, I painted the arms after instal and noticed the driverside showed washer movement. So I took a bunch of UCA bushings down to the machine shop and had then hog 'em out to 1/2" ... 5 bushings hogged for $50 seemed fair to me. So, I'm going to drill out my UCA mounts to 1/2" and see where that gets me.
Around town I have zero issues, just when I hit the highway at 90kmh+ as for bump steer, haven't noticed any ... the tracbar is only 3" shorter than the drag link with the new brackets ... the SS was added a few days after the swap in hopes it would tone down the DW ... it had zero effect whatsoever so my issue isn't steering related (hell, my steering wheel just shakes a little during an "episode" but the axle is freaking the !F! out up front ... ???)
I've gotten it down to the point where only the really hard hits set me off, and if I'm doing less than 90km/h I can stab the brakes and it settles back down. Like it adds just enough drag to let everything pull itself in order again, or add the required preload. Going to replace an axle end tracbar bolt/nut as the nut seems to be soft (it's deforming at ~90ft-lbs ... a good gr8 shouldn't do that) and replace the washer on that side as it may be out of spec. I still need to replace my steering box (play at the input end) but my c-roc plates showed up last week just before I headed to work. Also got some HDOR center stiffeners on the way. If I can cure the DW with the bushings and Box I'll concentrate on a mid arm 3-link. If I manage to cure it I'll get back on track and finish my axles ... I have a full case Detroit 4.56 29spl 8.25, and TrueTrac'd 4.56 HP30 under way - actually the 8.25 just needs a pinion seal (waiting on solid spacers) and Disc brake swap. The HP30 needs R&P and OTK bracketry. Not a bad deal at $500 for both with spare shafts for each. Wish I'd found them before I did my initial 4.56 regear though.
And as far as braking goes ... I can stop yesterday ... really freaks out tailgaters. Almost had my Boss rear end me once when he was following me too close ... wasn't expecting my rig to stop so fast. Only issue is I think I may swap a dakota master in as I've got a softer pedal than I like now with the 4 wheel discs and stock master and prop valve (wierd that my prop valve works perfectly for the brakes, no issues with rear wheels locking up at all maybe the o-ring inside is already shot?) .
Around town I have zero issues, just when I hit the highway at 90kmh+ as for bump steer, haven't noticed any ... the tracbar is only 3" shorter than the drag link with the new brackets ... the SS was added a few days after the swap in hopes it would tone down the DW ... it had zero effect whatsoever so my issue isn't steering related (hell, my steering wheel just shakes a little during an "episode" but the axle is freaking the !F! out up front ... ???)
I've gotten it down to the point where only the really hard hits set me off, and if I'm doing less than 90km/h I can stab the brakes and it settles back down. Like it adds just enough drag to let everything pull itself in order again, or add the required preload. Going to replace an axle end tracbar bolt/nut as the nut seems to be soft (it's deforming at ~90ft-lbs ... a good gr8 shouldn't do that) and replace the washer on that side as it may be out of spec. I still need to replace my steering box (play at the input end) but my c-roc plates showed up last week just before I headed to work. Also got some HDOR center stiffeners on the way. If I can cure the DW with the bushings and Box I'll concentrate on a mid arm 3-link. If I manage to cure it I'll get back on track and finish my axles ... I have a full case Detroit 4.56 29spl 8.25, and TrueTrac'd 4.56 HP30 under way - actually the 8.25 just needs a pinion seal (waiting on solid spacers) and Disc brake swap. The HP30 needs R&P and OTK bracketry. Not a bad deal at $500 for both with spare shafts for each. Wish I'd found them before I did my initial 4.56 regear though.
And as far as braking goes ... I can stop yesterday ... really freaks out tailgaters. Almost had my Boss rear end me once when he was following me too close ... wasn't expecting my rig to stop so fast. Only issue is I think I may swap a dakota master in as I've got a softer pedal than I like now with the 4 wheel discs and stock master and prop valve (wierd that my prop valve works perfectly for the brakes, no issues with rear wheels locking up at all maybe the o-ring inside is already shot?) .
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Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
OK ... since my service provider stuck their fist in uncomfortable places and axed my webspace a month early ... bastids
SO I'm gonna start over and try to bring us up to speed in a few posts.
I started with this -
Bought it when it was just 4yrs old 2000 XJ Classic ... was a great family wagon until the head cracked, then it got better. Swapped a '93 Cyl head onto the '00 block and converted to a '93 format exhaust. This all happened at about 140K on the odo. Noticed a decent power gain from stock as a result, nothing stupendous mind you, but noticeable for sure.
Fast forward about another few yaers to just last year .... and so we beging the Coles Notes Version ...
Rear springs were sagged so no better time to Bastardise the old girl.
Pulled the case and did an SYE
Bastard packs for the rear using 95 Dakota leaves, picked up SpiderTrax adapters to allow use of the Wife's old 08 Sahara stock wheels/tires since they were taking up space in the shop and measured 32"
and then 3.5" TJ coils and 1 3/4" spacers to finish.
Little later on I added HDOR Shackle relocation brackets, and had Karnage Fabworks reweld new perches to move the axle back 3/4"
SO I'm gonna start over and try to bring us up to speed in a few posts.
I started with this -
Bought it when it was just 4yrs old 2000 XJ Classic ... was a great family wagon until the head cracked, then it got better. Swapped a '93 Cyl head onto the '00 block and converted to a '93 format exhaust. This all happened at about 140K on the odo. Noticed a decent power gain from stock as a result, nothing stupendous mind you, but noticeable for sure.
Fast forward about another few yaers to just last year .... and so we beging the Coles Notes Version ...
Rear springs were sagged so no better time to Bastardise the old girl.
Pulled the case and did an SYE
Bastard packs for the rear using 95 Dakota leaves, picked up SpiderTrax adapters to allow use of the Wife's old 08 Sahara stock wheels/tires since they were taking up space in the shop and measured 32"
and then 3.5" TJ coils and 1 3/4" spacers to finish.
Little later on I added HDOR Shackle relocation brackets, and had Karnage Fabworks reweld new perches to move the axle back 3/4"
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Added a Rusty's tracbar and bracket as well as UCA's I picked up used for next to nothing. Added Fat Bob's LCA's and some used RS5000's. then went crazy and added rear Disk Brakes and front WJ knuckle swap with an OTK/OTA layout
and added new BDS 4.5" coils with 1" spacers, and relocated the front (now YJ length) brake lines ... I can droop enough in the front to swap the coils without touching my brakes.
Along the way I picked up a set of axles for the front and rear, and 89 D30 HP, and a set of late model XJ axles (D30Lp/8.25) with Detroit Locker and TrueTrac. Had my stock axles regeared to 4.56 about a month before I found these, which were also geared 4.56.
and added new BDS 4.5" coils with 1" spacers, and relocated the front (now YJ length) brake lines ... I can droop enough in the front to swap the coils without touching my brakes.
Along the way I picked up a set of axles for the front and rear, and 89 D30 HP, and a set of late model XJ axles (D30Lp/8.25) with Detroit Locker and TrueTrac. Had my stock axles regeared to 4.56 about a month before I found these, which were also geared 4.56.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Snagged some new Boots for my Rollerskate from Brad at Peden RV used, More Gooder [rockin]
Karnage Fabworks made me a new Crossmember out of 1/4" plate to allow use of a standard GM 350/350 trans mount since a mount for a 2000 XJ isn't exactly easy to find.
More recently I swapped out the VC gasket, swapped Radiator and water pump, added a trans and power Steering cooler, painted the Valve cover since I was bored, changed motor mounts, and ripped out A/C (about 6 months ago but forgot to add it in). Also swapped Power steering and Radiator hoses and swapped in a busted ass worn out steering box thinking it was OK, "Good 'n Tight" at the same time.
Converted the interior to LED lights when my rear hatch light melted and I found scorch marks on the forward Dome light as well, added an extra rear light as well (I travel when it's dark so light is good for finding shit .... when the domes come on it's friggin daylight now.
Finally got around to snagging some pics of the steering setup
And that brings up to speed to about a little while ago, just before she went in for a 3 link up grade, swapped the LP d30 for a HP D30, sleeved it, Today was a full day of new SKF wheel bearings, yet another used steering box (so far this one is good to go). Added a Cooling system Burp fitting and replocated the wiring harness and EVAP purge solenoid in plans for future mods. I'll snag some new pics as a lot has changed with this work. I'm sure I forgot a buch of crap as well but I'm sure it'll come out in the pics.
Karnage Fabworks made me a new Crossmember out of 1/4" plate to allow use of a standard GM 350/350 trans mount since a mount for a 2000 XJ isn't exactly easy to find.
More recently I swapped out the VC gasket, swapped Radiator and water pump, added a trans and power Steering cooler, painted the Valve cover since I was bored, changed motor mounts, and ripped out A/C (about 6 months ago but forgot to add it in). Also swapped Power steering and Radiator hoses and swapped in a busted ass worn out steering box thinking it was OK, "Good 'n Tight" at the same time.
Converted the interior to LED lights when my rear hatch light melted and I found scorch marks on the forward Dome light as well, added an extra rear light as well (I travel when it's dark so light is good for finding shit .... when the domes come on it's friggin daylight now.
Finally got around to snagging some pics of the steering setup
And that brings up to speed to about a little while ago, just before she went in for a 3 link up grade, swapped the LP d30 for a HP D30, sleeved it, Today was a full day of new SKF wheel bearings, yet another used steering box (so far this one is good to go). Added a Cooling system Burp fitting and replocated the wiring harness and EVAP purge solenoid in plans for future mods. I'll snag some new pics as a lot has changed with this work. I'm sure I forgot a buch of crap as well but I'm sure it'll come out in the pics.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
so here's a little more updated pics taken today showing the new steering and tracbar (3/4" heims from RuffStuff)
Coolant Burping device.
Hood lifts
Making space for some future mods
Custom GM trans mount crossmember
3 link'd (phase one, lots of things left to complete)
Steering and TracBar
And the overall picture
I was fine with the ride on short arms, but now that I'm rolling Long arm I don't know what the hell I was thinking, I mean I can hardly feel bumps that used to Jar me like a YJ, comfort is as comfort does ... I'm convinced.
Coolant Burping device.
Hood lifts
Making space for some future mods
Custom GM trans mount crossmember
3 link'd (phase one, lots of things left to complete)
Steering and TracBar
And the overall picture
I was fine with the ride on short arms, but now that I'm rolling Long arm I don't know what the hell I was thinking, I mean I can hardly feel bumps that used to Jar me like a YJ, comfort is as comfort does ... I'm convinced.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Grabbed a shot of the LED lights in the interior last night. I'm pretty happy with them. Just used the Walmart blocks ... could probably find them cheaper on ebay. Soldered them in place and wired an extra for the rear cargo area on the forward slope. Makes finding shit at night super simple, lots of light.
