Cage construction

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Yeah, I know it doesn't look like I have done much, but if I could have buttoned up the rear axle I would have had the entire back half of the rig completed......
:banghead:
Those of you with a keen eye will notice the triple fan set up for the radiator (last picture.)

 

[Weasel]

what kind of fans? I mounted dual electric in mine. Work well but are on the loud side.

 

[Jump This]

They are Perma-cools. I don't know what CFM rating they have, but since the radiator will be mounted behind me, I'll be willing to 'quiet them down' if nesc.

 

[corbinafly]

what kind of fans? I mounted dual electric in mine. Work well but are on the loud side.

According to Perma cool they're supposed to be 2100 cfm, but you know how that is. Probably over rated.

 

[Weasel]

According to Perma cool they're supposed to be 2100 cfm, but you know how that is. Probably over rated.

Hmm that seems low? I used these and they are rated at 4000 cfm, but maybe over rated.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16928/

 

[Goatman]

Rick, why can't you just get another set of carrier bearings from the local parts store? Why buy another set up kit?

I'd still partially box the rear upper control arm axle mounts to help eliminate side flex. Those brackets will be handling sideways force to keep the axle centered.

 

[Jump This]

Rick, why can't you just get another set of carrier bearings from the local parts store? Why buy another set up kit?

I'd still partially box the rear upper control arm axle mounts to help eliminate side flex. Those brackets will be handling sideways force to keep the axle centered.

You do remember where I live don't you? It was cheaper to order a complete set than buy the bearings seperate. They did arrive today (ordered them yesterday afternoon!) After I get some things done here, I'll be off to the garage!

I could add some more beef to the upper axle mounts without any difficulty.
It looks to me like there should be some thicker material used for the frame side upper mounts too.

 

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Okay, so I'm buttoning up the rear axle today.
Now I'm on to the axles themselves. I'm running the Torino ends.

As I see it, I have the axle then the retainer plate, 5mm spacer, then press on the bearing (am I right so far?) The set 20 bearings come with a large collar/spacer that would press onto the axle but doesn't have a corresponding location on the axle (collars OD doesn't match any of the surfaces on the Torino housing. What the hell am I supposed to do with it?
Cracker says Currie machines these to a more conical shape, but I wouldn't know why.
Suggestions?

 

[Israel]

Rick, who welded that piece to the top of the housing? Are there any concerns with welding to the cast diff? Any preheating/postheating? Nickel rod? I'm trying to figure out my upper link mount for my front axle.

 

[Jump This]

Rick, who welded that piece to the top of the housing? Are there any concerns with welding to the cast diff? Any preheating/postheating? Nickel rod? I'm trying to figure out my upper link mount for my front axle.

I had my torch there to pre heat then post heat, didn't use any special wire though.

 

[Israel]

Are you concerned about it at all? I'm not trying to critisize, I just hear so many different versions on what's acceptable and what's not, it's hard to know what the facts are.

 

[Mr.OverKill]

Are you concerned about it at all? I'm not trying to criticize, I just hear so many different versions on what's acceptable and what's not, it's hard to know what the facts are.

the facts are there are a hell of alot of ways to weld cast, all are good or bad depending on the casting. there are different qualities of casting i have came across, the older ones tend to crack alot easier, those i recommend nickel rod to weld with pre and post heat and peaning, others just nickel rod, better castings, pre and post heat with normal wire can work with peaning as well, ( but i would always use nickel rod if you have the choice ) the best castings, just a long cool down with normal rod or wire will suffice with peaning ( peaning is the normalizing of the weld to reduce shrinkage during initial cool down with a needle gun )

with all that said i above all recommend taking your cast welding to someone who has much experience in cast welding, not every welder can do good cast welds, it take practise especially if its an older lower quality casting like older D44 and D60 housings

 

[Goatman]

Okay, so I'm buttoning up the rear axle today.
Now I'm on to the axles themselves. I'm running the Torino ends.

As I see it, I have the axle then the retainer plate, 5mm spacer, then press on the bearing (am I right so far?) The set 20 bearings come with a large collar/spacer that would press onto the axle but doesn't have a corresponding location on the axle (collars OD doesn't match any of the surfaces on the Torino housing. What the hell am I supposed to do with it?
Cracker says Currie machines these to a more conical shape, but I wouldn't know why.
Suggestions?

Don't forget the seal.

That ring just presses on the axle and holds the bearing on, nothing special.

 

[Goatman]

Troy knows a helluva lot more about welding than I do, and I'd have him weld my stuff anytime. So listen to him for an accurate answer. For a garage welder like me, I gave up on all the fancy techniques for welding to diff housings and knuckles. For one thing, they're cast steel and not cast iron, which makes a difference. With a little pre-heating I just use the MIG with normal wire. So far, so good.

It also depends on what exactly you're welding. If you're welding a bridge that attaches to both the tube and the housing, the load is pretty spread out. If you're trussing and welding all along the tube and the housing, then the load is really spread out. But, if you had to weld a link bracket mostly to the cast center section then every technique and precaution should be made for a strong weld. I wouldn't even do it.

Another example is welding shock tabs to inner C's. Many builders, including myself, weld tabs directly to the C with a MIG and no pre-heating, partially because the ball joint is already there. Most C's are good quality steel and there seems to be no issues welding to it. My lower front shock tabs are welded directly to the top of the C with a MIG, and it's been through 2 KOH races and a bunch of pre-running for a 3rd KOH, plus tons of trail running with no issues. (gawd I hope I didn't just jinx myself )

It's not rocket science, just be smart about it.

 

[Jump This]

The C's and the pumpkin are made of different alloys that is why we can weld braces, brackets and shock mounts to them without any of the song and dance (if anyone gave a rat's ass about that.....)

 

[Israel]

the facts are there are a hell of alot of ways to weld cast, all are good or bad depending on the casting. there are different qualities of casting i have came across, the older ones tend to crack alot easier, those i recommend nickel rod to weld with pre and post heat and peaning, others just nickel rod, better castings, pre and post heat with normal wire can work with peaning as well, ( but i would always use nickel rod if you have the choice ) the best castings, just a long cool down with normal rod or wire will suffice with peaning ( peaning is the normalizing of the weld to reduce shrinkage during initial cool down with a needle gun )

with all that said i above all recommend taking your cast welding to someone who has much experience in cast welding, not every welder can do good cast welds, it take practise especially if its an older lower quality casting like older D44 and D60 housings

Troy knows a helluva lot more about welding than I do, and I'd have him weld my stuff anytime. So listen to him for an accurate answer. For a garage welder like me, I gave up on all the fancy techniques for welding to diff housings and knuckles. For one thing, they're cast steel and not cast iron, which makes a difference. With a little pre-heating I just use the MIG with normal wire. So far, so good.

It also depends on what exactly you're welding. If you're welding a bridge that attaches to both the tube and the housing, the load is pretty spread out. If you're trussing and welding all along the tube and the housing, then the load is really spread out. But, if you had to weld a link bracket mostly to the cast center section then every technique and precaution should be made for a strong weld. I wouldn't even do it.

Another example is welding shock tabs to inner C's. Many builders, including myself, weld tabs directly to the C with a MIG and no pre-heating, partially because the ball joint is already there. Most C's are good quality steel and there seems to be no issues welding to it. My lower front shock tabs are welded directly to the top of the C with a MIG, and it's been through 2 KOH races and a bunch of pre-running for a 3rd KOH, plus tons of trail running with no issues. (gawd I hope I didn't just jinx myself )

It's not rocket science, just be smart about it.

Very helpful! Thanks guys.

In my particular case, I’m building a bridge across the top of the diff for my upper link on the axle. It will be welded across the top third of the diff as well as the tube on the passenger side and a plate bolted to the leaf spring perch on the driver’s side. Since the weld area is so spread out and my housing isn’t too old yet (1990 F350), it sounds like I should be safe MIG welding it, especially if I preheat and postheat a little.

Sorry for the interruption, Rick. I now return you to your regularly scheduled cage build.

 

[Jump This]

The C's and the pumpkin are made of different alloys that is why we can weld braces, brackets and shock mounts to them without any of the song and dance (if anyone gave a rat's ass about that.....)

that is to say, you can weld to the C's all day without any issues.

 

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I needed to add some triangulation (nodes) before buttoning up some of the rear frame area. So I spent all day in the garage.
Cut off the arm rest area and tied into the rear frame better. Also triangulated the upper shock and gas tank frame.

Okay, so the pictures suck...
The last one there gives you an idea of all the tube work done today.\
Damn, I'm tired....

 

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I just want to pound my head against a wall....

Does anyone here know of a well written article on how to cut down and change a full float rear 60 to a semi float?
I thought I needed to get explorer brackets, calipers and rotors, install all this with that nifty 5mm spacer from Currie and I'd be done with it.
Well....the Explorer disks (that I ended up with) are 5x4.5 bolt pattern and it doesn't appear as though I needed that 5mm spacer.

Without being a smart ass, can someone explain what the XXXX?

:flamemad:

 

[Jump This]

OH.....so I'm suposed to drill them out myself huh?
Got it, but I'm still not sure about that spacer yet......