blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Putting in work Dustin!
The Nail Salon
- Thread starter TORX
- Start date
Meh, just a big box and sticker collection at this point. Not sure when teardown will begin, but I plan to start moving forward with the little things shortly. I still need to acquire a few more essential parts in the meantime.
Although, I just received an email today that my new coils are back ordered until, August 29! Damn.
Thanks, buddy! I'm always lurking in your build thread. You put in 10x the amount of work I do. I have to hand it to you. Have fun at SierraFest.
bmikes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- portland or
If you want help or wouldn't mind company when you go for phase two id come up
adrenalinepirate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lakewood,CO
Hey was wondering if your going to a selectable locker in the rear with the 60? About to buy a locker for my 8.8 and thinking going E-locker like my front. Also what size lift? It is 4.5 right.
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
Thanks for coming out to Goldendale a few weeks ago - sorry we couldn't chat more - I looked for ya after my last run, but didnt see you.
I'll take pics on the 'con for ya.
:cheers:
I'll take pics on the 'con for ya.
:cheers:
I'm sure I'll be needing an extra set of hands at some point, thanks. How are you at undercoating removal?
The Tera60 is already stuffed with an ARB (35 spline). This will be my first time running selectable lockers. I'm a little hesitant in regards to reliability, but I do look forward to the select-ability.
Still sitting on the original 4.5" lift, correct.
Now that's a solid plan!
When are we wheeling again, Kaleb?
It was a good event, and it was nice running into you. Your rig is definitely purpose built.
Have fun on the 'Con. We'll have to get a trip together later in the year.
Here's a bit of an update to my box and sticker collection. Since NWF, I've gotten some more motivation to get the 44/60 installed, and my three link built. So I've been taking advantage of the summer sales...
I had a gift certificate to Rusty's Offroad I needed to use, so I chose to use it on an ARB compressor. Originally I was going to go with their compact compressor made just for operating air lockers. However, RedJeep2.0 had a good point in stepping up to the next version rated for tire inflation, and using it as a back up air source for my CO2. Enter, ARB CKMA12...
This is old news, but the rear 60 will get the RuffSTuff treatment. I've been running this same kit on my 8.8, and love it. I will once again be doing custom shock mounts, but slightly different than what I did before.
For the front lower frame side mounts, I'll be using these brackets from Barnes 4WD. To prevent the holes from wallowing out, I'll be running weld washers on all the holes. These will sit directly under the frame rails just behind the factory position (~22" lower). Lower arms will be built from 2x.250" DOM.
Still not entirely sure how the frame side upper link mount is going to end up. I got this bracket from Barnes 4WD, and I hope I can make it work. I thought about using an adjustable mount, but for packaging reasons I like this smaller one. There's also a pretty good chance it will end up slightly inside the passenger floorboard to achieve enough separation.
For the axle side mounts, I'll be re-using the lower mounts on the 44. They're pretty flush with the bottom of the axle tube, and incorporated into the coil buckets. For the upper axle side mount, I'll be going with a TORXfab design. I didn't like any of the pre-made ones, and have a pretty good idea for a design.
Trackbar duties will come from the help of RuffStuff and their bracket kit with 7/8 hiems. After seeing multiple bracket failures recently, I plan to really beef up the frame side. The actual trackbar will be built from 1.5x.250" DOM.
I went back and forth on what type of joints to run. In the end I think some of the 4500 MJ build rubbed off on me, and I went with 1.25" heims. All joints on the front suspension will use 5/8" bolts for durability and consistency.
As much as I like my BDS springs, I looked at other available options. BDS uses a 240lb/in spring rate on their coils, and I've grown to really like it (most other aftermarket coils are ~180lb/in). PAC Racing Springs offers a coil spring line for Jeep Speed use in various spring rates. I chose to go with their 6" 250lb/in progressive coils for the front. Can't wait to to run them!
With new front coils, I would then need to raise the rear. After years of abuse my current 3" BDS packs are still holding up great. Like their coils, I really like their spring rate, so I chose to go with their 5" full leaf packs. I already have custom shackle hangers, so I can dial in the angle to where I want. I'll reuse my shackles and should be sitting around 6.5" in the rear.
Next up was new shoes. I would like to run 37's, but that's a heck of a lot of money for new tires and wheel, and commitment (hydro assist, additional gearing, etc). Instead, for now I chose to pick up Icemans used 35x12.5 Kevlars (yes, TORX is joining the Kevlar bandwagon...). They're already mounted on 5x5.5 wheels, and have plenty of tread left, so it was a no brainer.
At this point, I'm almost out of excuses for not tearing this thing apart and moving forward with install. In the next few weeks I need to...
-Press on new Set20 bearings on rear axle shafts
-Pick up some steel and make some front frame plates
-Track down the necessary parts to plumb the ARB lines
-Run new hard line on the 60
I had a gift certificate to Rusty's Offroad I needed to use, so I chose to use it on an ARB compressor. Originally I was going to go with their compact compressor made just for operating air lockers. However, RedJeep2.0 had a good point in stepping up to the next version rated for tire inflation, and using it as a back up air source for my CO2. Enter, ARB CKMA12...
This is old news, but the rear 60 will get the RuffSTuff treatment. I've been running this same kit on my 8.8, and love it. I will once again be doing custom shock mounts, but slightly different than what I did before.
For the front lower frame side mounts, I'll be using these brackets from Barnes 4WD. To prevent the holes from wallowing out, I'll be running weld washers on all the holes. These will sit directly under the frame rails just behind the factory position (~22" lower). Lower arms will be built from 2x.250" DOM.
Still not entirely sure how the frame side upper link mount is going to end up. I got this bracket from Barnes 4WD, and I hope I can make it work. I thought about using an adjustable mount, but for packaging reasons I like this smaller one. There's also a pretty good chance it will end up slightly inside the passenger floorboard to achieve enough separation.
For the axle side mounts, I'll be re-using the lower mounts on the 44. They're pretty flush with the bottom of the axle tube, and incorporated into the coil buckets. For the upper axle side mount, I'll be going with a TORXfab design. I didn't like any of the pre-made ones, and have a pretty good idea for a design.
Trackbar duties will come from the help of RuffStuff and their bracket kit with 7/8 hiems. After seeing multiple bracket failures recently, I plan to really beef up the frame side. The actual trackbar will be built from 1.5x.250" DOM.
I went back and forth on what type of joints to run. In the end I think some of the 4500 MJ build rubbed off on me, and I went with 1.25" heims. All joints on the front suspension will use 5/8" bolts for durability and consistency.
As much as I like my BDS springs, I looked at other available options. BDS uses a 240lb/in spring rate on their coils, and I've grown to really like it (most other aftermarket coils are ~180lb/in). PAC Racing Springs offers a coil spring line for Jeep Speed use in various spring rates. I chose to go with their 6" 250lb/in progressive coils for the front. Can't wait to to run them!
With new front coils, I would then need to raise the rear. After years of abuse my current 3" BDS packs are still holding up great. Like their coils, I really like their spring rate, so I chose to go with their 5" full leaf packs. I already have custom shackle hangers, so I can dial in the angle to where I want. I'll reuse my shackles and should be sitting around 6.5" in the rear.
Next up was new shoes. I would like to run 37's, but that's a heck of a lot of money for new tires and wheel, and commitment (hydro assist, additional gearing, etc). Instead, for now I chose to pick up Icemans used 35x12.5 Kevlars (yes, TORX is joining the Kevlar bandwagon...). They're already mounted on 5x5.5 wheels, and have plenty of tread left, so it was a no brainer.
At this point, I'm almost out of excuses for not tearing this thing apart and moving forward with install. In the next few weeks I need to...
-Press on new Set20 bearings on rear axle shafts
-Pick up some steel and make some front frame plates
-Track down the necessary parts to plumb the ARB lines
-Run new hard line on the 60
Heading to TSF this weekend, and decided to give the Nail Salon a once over. I got some miles on it, and retorqued the beadlock bolts.
Occasionally I would get a cracking sound coming from the steering box area. I've heard this sound plenty of times before, and usually it's some form of cracking on the frame. After closer inspection I sure enough found two new cracks, and the lower layers of sheet-metal below the box were beginning to separate. So out came the drill to drill out the ends of the cracks, followed by a little bit of Hobart treatment to glue it all back together.
Yes, the Nail Salon desperately needs some front frame plating both on the outside, and underside. For now though, everything is tight once again.
Time to wheel!
Occasionally I would get a cracking sound coming from the steering box area. I've heard this sound plenty of times before, and usually it's some form of cracking on the frame. After closer inspection I sure enough found two new cracks, and the lower layers of sheet-metal below the box were beginning to separate. So out came the drill to drill out the ends of the cracks, followed by a little bit of Hobart treatment to glue it all back together.
Yes, the Nail Salon desperately needs some front frame plating both on the outside, and underside. For now though, everything is tight once again.
Time to wheel!
Went to TSF at the beginning of August with Brandon and Mikey. It was super dry, and traction was great. Nail Salon did great, AC blew cold, the unirame was silent, and TSF is still TSF.
I made the executive decision to run the Nail Salon again in this years Oregon Trophy Challenge. Not wanting to bring an untested rig into battle, I chose to once again put off the overhaul for another month or two. This actually worked out well, because I still had quite a lot to do in the meantime.
The new BDS leaf packs came equipped with cast aluminum six degree shims installed. Since I'd be dialing in my pinion angle with my new perches, they were deleted (not to mention they were cast aluminum).
I took this time to "upgrade" to a standard grade eight center bolt. I've bent and broke multiple stock center pins in the past, and since I switched to standard grade eight bolts I've never had another issue.
Installed the BDS poly bushings, and greased them up good.
I'm a big fan of adding some magnets to the inside of the diff covers. Helps keep the bearings clean, and if all hell breaks loose it can keep the collateral damage down. So I took the time to add some to the inside of the cast Tera60 cover, and front HP44 cover.
The rear 60 came to me with some leaky wheel seals. The Tera60 uses standard Timken Set20 bearings/seals, which press on the shaft, and are held in place by a locking retaining collar.
To remove the collar I used a cutoff wheel to cut the majority of the way through, and then used a chisel to break the rest off cleanly. Very easy to do, just pay attention not to cut into the shaft.
With the collar off you can then press the old bearing off. I took the shafts over to the 4500 shop, and used Winton's press to press on the new bearings and collars. Be sure to grease up the new seals well before install.
New seal, bearing, and collar. All new bearings and seals on the 60 now, which is comforting to know.
You might have noticed a yellow line on the shaft in the last pic. It's a little trick I picked up to do a quick visual on the axle shafts for any deflection or twisting. I've bent shafts in the past, and unless you held a straight edge on them it was hard to tell.
I made the executive decision to run the Nail Salon again in this years Oregon Trophy Challenge. Not wanting to bring an untested rig into battle, I chose to once again put off the overhaul for another month or two. This actually worked out well, because I still had quite a lot to do in the meantime.
The new BDS leaf packs came equipped with cast aluminum six degree shims installed. Since I'd be dialing in my pinion angle with my new perches, they were deleted (not to mention they were cast aluminum).
I took this time to "upgrade" to a standard grade eight center bolt. I've bent and broke multiple stock center pins in the past, and since I switched to standard grade eight bolts I've never had another issue.
Installed the BDS poly bushings, and greased them up good.
I'm a big fan of adding some magnets to the inside of the diff covers. Helps keep the bearings clean, and if all hell breaks loose it can keep the collateral damage down. So I took the time to add some to the inside of the cast Tera60 cover, and front HP44 cover.
The rear 60 came to me with some leaky wheel seals. The Tera60 uses standard Timken Set20 bearings/seals, which press on the shaft, and are held in place by a locking retaining collar.
To remove the collar I used a cutoff wheel to cut the majority of the way through, and then used a chisel to break the rest off cleanly. Very easy to do, just pay attention not to cut into the shaft.
With the collar off you can then press the old bearing off. I took the shafts over to the 4500 shop, and used Winton's press to press on the new bearings and collars. Be sure to grease up the new seals well before install.
New seal, bearing, and collar. All new bearings and seals on the 60 now, which is comforting to know.
You might have noticed a yellow line on the shaft in the last pic. It's a little trick I picked up to do a quick visual on the axle shafts for any deflection or twisting. I've bent shafts in the past, and unless you held a straight edge on them it was hard to tell.
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Next project was tackling rear shock mounts. I'm happy with the mounts I made for my 8.8, however I'm going a different route on the 60. Started with some layout work, which took way too long.
After the initial cut out, it was then taken over to the drill press.
Divorced.
I bolted the two sides together during the shaping of the 1.75" radius. This ensures both sides are identical.
Some hole saw action while making the side tie-in pieces. Slow RPM's are your friend.
I bought some standard 1/2" washers to use as "weld washers" to reinforce the sides of the mount. However, they have a standard ID of .5625, which defeat the purpose of a weld washer. I decided to just make my own washers instead. I used a 1.5" hole saw, collected the inside cut outs, marked center, tacked the four pieces together, drilled the center hole, and voila!
One side complete! I cut a piece of tubing a strong 1.5" to help minimize any warpage during welding.
All welded up, and tacked onto the RuffStuff u-bolt plate.
It's getting there. Next task will be running new hardline for the brakes, and then the Tera60 will pretty much be ready for mock up under the rig to dial in the pinion angle.
Gotta say after a weekend of finally making some progress I'm really enjoying "the build" aspect again.
After the initial cut out, it was then taken over to the drill press.
Divorced.
I bolted the two sides together during the shaping of the 1.75" radius. This ensures both sides are identical.
Some hole saw action while making the side tie-in pieces. Slow RPM's are your friend.
I bought some standard 1/2" washers to use as "weld washers" to reinforce the sides of the mount. However, they have a standard ID of .5625, which defeat the purpose of a weld washer. I decided to just make my own washers instead. I used a 1.5" hole saw, collected the inside cut outs, marked center, tacked the four pieces together, drilled the center hole, and voila!
One side complete! I cut a piece of tubing a strong 1.5" to help minimize any warpage during welding.
All welded up, and tacked onto the RuffStuff u-bolt plate.
It's getting there. Next task will be running new hardline for the brakes, and then the Tera60 will pretty much be ready for mock up under the rig to dial in the pinion angle.
Gotta say after a weekend of finally making some progress I'm really enjoying "the build" aspect again.
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Let me know how you like the PAC springs. I ordered the same ones a month before Rubicon but they were back ordered for 2 months and wouldn't have gotten to me on time. I really want stiffer front coils than what I am running now.
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
My front lower links are about 23" eye to eye, with the frame side mount about where you're talking about placing yours, and the upper is through the OEM passenger floor board.
Lots of folks make fun of my 'short' links, but I really like them.
Good choice on the 1.25" joints for the lowers. A little extra beef there can save a lot of $$$. I also believe the 1.25 heims last a lot longer because the center ball is so much larger, it spreads the load out on the joint more, and doesn't get loose as fast.
I like what you've got going on here :cheers:
Lots of folks make fun of my 'short' links, but I really like them.
Good choice on the 1.25" joints for the lowers. A little extra beef there can save a lot of $$$. I also believe the 1.25 heims last a lot longer because the center ball is so much larger, it spreads the load out on the joint more, and doesn't get loose as fast.
I like what you've got going on here :cheers:
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Good work Dustin, that 60 will be sweet mang!
My lowers are 23.5", upper is around 19". I like it . No one makes fun of it. Mid arm kit.
My lowers are 23.5", upper is around 19". I like it . No one makes fun of it. Mid arm kit.
Thanks, Opie. I'm glad to hear that. I've done a ton of research on three links, and a lot of your old posts have been really helpful.
When I discuss my three link plans with people I often get the "deer in headlights" look, followed by, "so you're building new short arms?"
Yes. Yes I am.
Got the shock brackets all welded up.
Got the paint treatment.
My next task was building a axle side upper control arm mount. I didn't like any of the premade aftermarket ones available, and they didn't work well with the vertical separation I was after. So TORXfab it was.
I had a basic design I was after, and spent some time with some cardboard templates mocking things up. I chose to offset the radius by .5625" to give the mount a 10 degree offset to help keep the hiems more parallel. I was cursing myself during layout for not paying more attention in Trig class.
I drilled both sides at the same time to make sure they were both identical.
Added a bit of heat, and bent the sides out 2". TORX needs a press brake.
Made a front side and back side to box in the mount. Speed holes added for flavor.
When tacking everything together I added .030" of old pinion shims to act as a spacer to prevent the bracket from pulling too tight.
Tacked together. The excess material will be bent over the top radius eventually, but I ran out of acetylene.
Hopefully after a trip to Airgas on Tuesday I can get the bracket finished up.
Got the paint treatment.
My next task was building a axle side upper control arm mount. I didn't like any of the premade aftermarket ones available, and they didn't work well with the vertical separation I was after. So TORXfab it was.
I had a basic design I was after, and spent some time with some cardboard templates mocking things up. I chose to offset the radius by .5625" to give the mount a 10 degree offset to help keep the hiems more parallel. I was cursing myself during layout for not paying more attention in Trig class.
I drilled both sides at the same time to make sure they were both identical.
Added a bit of heat, and bent the sides out 2". TORX needs a press brake.
Made a front side and back side to box in the mount. Speed holes added for flavor.
When tacking everything together I added .030" of old pinion shims to act as a spacer to prevent the bracket from pulling too tight.
Tacked together. The excess material will be bent over the top radius eventually, but I ran out of acetylene.
Hopefully after a trip to Airgas on Tuesday I can get the bracket finished up.
- Location
- WA state
Hi Dustin!
What did those PAC coils set you back?
And, I know you will enjoy those MTR-k's
I know you're far, but have any plans for your old coils/leafs? Might be interested at the right price.
What did those PAC coils set you back?
And, I know you will enjoy those MTR-k's
I know you're far, but have any plans for your old coils/leafs? Might be interested at the right price.
Hey Jeremy, I got the PAC coils from Jegs for ~$110 each, free shipping. I got an email saying they were back ordered till the end I August (this was beginning of July), but they were at my door within two weeks.
I'm excited to run them, but the only concern I have is the amount of down travel they have to offer. With such a stiff spring rate I've heard they don't unload a whole lot. I was hoping to run 12" travel shocks so I guess we'll see when I start cycling things. Flex is overrated anyways.
I really like my current BDS springs, so unfortunately for you all they are probably going in the corner of my living room for the time being. The Nail Salon right now is pretty much my ideal all around Jeep, so I'm going to hold on to most of the stuff in hopes to toss it on a mall crawler in the future.
With my axle side upper link bracket made, I then thought about how I could strengthen the mount on the axle. The simple answer I came up with was a simple truss similar to what I did on my current 30. This would further tie in the UCA mount (with only one upper, I want overkill), and strengthen the housing.
Looking at the 44 there are a lot of angles going on. I chose to mount the upper based off the coil spring mounts. Set the mounts to 0 degrees using one of my new favorite tools. Just out of curiosity I found the caster to be set to ~5 degrees with a ~7degree pinion angle.
Then I began the tedious process of mocking up the upper mount and truss pieces. I set the tuss/upper 90 degrees off the coil spring mounts, and centered them on the axle tube.
All tacked together. Might have gotten carried away with the speed holes.
The RuffStuff track bar bracket will fit nicely in between the spring mount and upper, but I'm holding off on placing that until the axle is mocked up under the rig.
Oregon Trophy Challenge is six days away, and I haven't even started the Nail Salon in over a month. Today I thought it would be wise to a: see if it starts, and b: give it a good once over.
It started like a champ.
On my last TSF trip my tire must have gotten into my front brake line since the hard line was pulled away from the frame and kinked a bit. I tried to massage it back into place, but quickly managed to snap it off. Wonderful.
My only option was to cut the hard line, and re-flare the line. A trip to the parts store yielded me a brake line flare tool kit. I opted for the lower end $20 kit. I chose poorly.
Back to the parts store, got laughed at, exchanged the broken kit for a made in USA $50 kit, Merica!
I managed to make a great flare on the first try, but quickly realized I forgot to put the nut on the line. Re-cut the line, and tried again, only to make a poor flare that leaked. Luckily, the third time is the charm.
My hardline is now several inches shorter, but I don't think it will max out with downtravel. I ziptied the line out of the way to hopefully prevent any tire interference. I think during the 44 swap I will just make a new hard line from the master that comes down the frame further and is better secured.
The brake line incident naturally took way longer than expected, so I still need to go over the rest of the rig before next weekend, but all seemed cherry on the test drive. :dunno:
Looking at the 44 there are a lot of angles going on. I chose to mount the upper based off the coil spring mounts. Set the mounts to 0 degrees using one of my new favorite tools. Just out of curiosity I found the caster to be set to ~5 degrees with a ~7degree pinion angle.
Then I began the tedious process of mocking up the upper mount and truss pieces. I set the tuss/upper 90 degrees off the coil spring mounts, and centered them on the axle tube.
All tacked together. Might have gotten carried away with the speed holes.
The RuffStuff track bar bracket will fit nicely in between the spring mount and upper, but I'm holding off on placing that until the axle is mocked up under the rig.
Oregon Trophy Challenge is six days away, and I haven't even started the Nail Salon in over a month. Today I thought it would be wise to a: see if it starts, and b: give it a good once over.
It started like a champ.
On my last TSF trip my tire must have gotten into my front brake line since the hard line was pulled away from the frame and kinked a bit. I tried to massage it back into place, but quickly managed to snap it off. Wonderful.
My only option was to cut the hard line, and re-flare the line. A trip to the parts store yielded me a brake line flare tool kit. I opted for the lower end $20 kit. I chose poorly.
Back to the parts store, got laughed at, exchanged the broken kit for a made in USA $50 kit, Merica!
I managed to make a great flare on the first try, but quickly realized I forgot to put the nut on the line. Re-cut the line, and tried again, only to make a poor flare that leaked. Luckily, the third time is the charm.
My hardline is now several inches shorter, but I don't think it will max out with downtravel. I ziptied the line out of the way to hopefully prevent any tire interference. I think during the 44 swap I will just make a new hard line from the master that comes down the frame further and is better secured.
The brake line incident naturally took way longer than expected, so I still need to go over the rest of the rig before next weekend, but all seemed cherry on the test drive. :dunno:
