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The Budget Bucket's build

I doubt that heat soak is the problem. The rough idle/miss at idle happens when the engine is cold too.
 
It could be an intermittent bad coil issue. I would go through and check all of the grounding points and crimp connections just to be on the safe side. Does it smell really rich when it idles rough?
 
Alright. Now I have it all the time

So I changed my spark plugs. Standard gap, put everything back in and now it idles ruff almost like a miss fire but all is back on correctly (checked twice). Not throwing a code either.

I did leave the battery cable off and grounded "to reset the ecu". Is it supposed to idle and driver ruff afterwards for 50 times?

Don't know what to do, gonna check the plugs a 3rd time
 
Yeah I ended up accidentally crushing a point and I cracked a plug and I had checked it twice. So kinds dumb but she pure great now. Just need to watch it from now on to see if it come back. Fingers crossed
 
I threw them out, but they didn't even register on the gaping tool. Most points were worn down all the way. But they were clean cause we sea foamed it. Now it runns so much better and I'm getting like 3 mpg more
 
so im designing a "Daily functional" cage. it will be an interior cage with B and C pillar hoops and the A hoop will run through the dash instead of around it so that i can still get into the dash if need be. i will run a small halo with braces for the roof and a small slant from the C pillar back to the rear floor on the sides.

heres were it gets tricky, I still use my seats for transporting people and luggage so seats get moved around alot. so thus i want to be able to have a strong cage but still have a stock functioning jeep. so I have an idea for that

all plans already mentioned will be welded into the body. between the B pillars i am planning on making an X with a horizontal bar all welded together in the middle but instead of welding them into the B pillar, i was thinking of having it connect and disconnect with these: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TC-DUB15.html

also planning on having a horizontal brace bar between the C pillars and also disconnect. So in theory when i went wheeling i could put the main brace in and then when i used it for other purposes (AKA Daily driving which is more than wheeling) i could take it out but still have a cage and stock like functions.

I want to know your criticisms, Ideas, Inputs, and Thoughts.

The cons ive come up with: could potentially make the B pillar brace weak instead of strong as if it was welded together, but if i rolled it would not be because of speed (knock on wood) and i hate doing hills; i would only be rolling over onto my side or roof IN THEORY. also ive seen king of the hammer rigs use them
 
Those connectors look plenty strong to me. I don't know if they are as strong (stronger?) as the tube they connect to, but it isn't just a bolted connection. They "key" into place and the bolts keep them from falling out of place. Things would have to get pretty hair to break one of those.
I say go for it. If you don't mind losing some interior paneling, you'll make the cage a LOT more effective by adding plates that weld the tubing to the A/B/C pillars. Stiffens the body considerably. You could replace some of the sound deadening of the panels by painting it with bedliner or sound deadener.
 
sy2e6a5u.jpg
 
huh ya i havent thought of the plates idea yet. ill look into it. and ya im trying to keep as much interior stuff as possible but im ok loosing some. as long as i can make it look good as well. im wondering what im going to do about the headliner, because ill have to take it out to weld up and around the pillars. thanks man.
 
Not really too much back tracking needed though.. If you just move the halo outside the body, that should be enough of a change that you can still use the initial concept.
 
That's what I'm thinking. I'm just thinking of certain bends and maybe adding a D pillar. I just don't want my halo top close for the windshield and be able to use it as a roof rack as well maybe.
 
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