XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
Oh man that sucks.
-
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...sorry...another build thread...
- Thread starter blondejoncherokee
- Start date
831_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Santa Cruz
They must've knew it was for silverback.. just do one side Jon
- Location
- sacramento
PAC came through with over night shipping on the other coil. Stand Up company.
Is anyone running the ruffstuff Y link steering kit on their XJ instead of a full on cross over- I know the full on cross over is the way to go...
Is there a dead spot? Are you running their special delrin spacer - "The Cure"? I am thinking about going to ruffstuff 1 ton steering but don't want to fork out cash for a reid knuckle and a hi steer arm at the same time so I am considering the Y link kit with the cure spacer just to see how it does at this point and I could knock it out in one night. They call it a Ylink, but its an inverted T, and I know the inverted T setup has issues with high angles on the drag link, like a 6" lift with out hi steer...
anyone have a hookup on reid knuckles? RS 10% code seems to work so thats a good worst case scenario .
Is anyone running the ruffstuff Y link steering kit on their XJ instead of a full on cross over- I know the full on cross over is the way to go...
Is there a dead spot? Are you running their special delrin spacer - "The Cure"? I am thinking about going to ruffstuff 1 ton steering but don't want to fork out cash for a reid knuckle and a hi steer arm at the same time so I am considering the Y link kit with the cure spacer just to see how it does at this point and I could knock it out in one night. They call it a Ylink, but its an inverted T, and I know the inverted T setup has issues with high angles on the drag link, like a 6" lift with out hi steer...
anyone have a hookup on reid knuckles? RS 10% code seems to work so thats a good worst case scenario .
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- Location
- Hammertown, USA
did they want the old coil back, or just tell you to keep it?
i wonder if you could buy its mate and tell us how the rates compare
i wonder if you could buy its mate and tell us how the rates compare
- Location
- sacramento
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Jon fyi. Ried is located in pleasant hill. If you want to save on shipping and will be in the area.
831_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Santa Cruz
I had the y link.
Sketchy as hell without the spacer. At the time only jcr had it. Worked great with it on
Sketchy as hell without the spacer. At the time only jcr had it. Worked great with it on
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
its not worth it unless they decided to give it to you instead of paying freight.
when we went pac, we bought 4 and 6 inch springs, but both at 250, since we're adjusting our rate with coilover springs.
I've never played with softer rates to see how they work.
- Location
- sacramento
So I did a crap ton of work on the Ladies WJ this week to combat DW- I think I finally nailed it :
torched out totally shot axle side UCA bushings and replaced with poly bushings
replaced UCAs with new stockers
replaced LCAS with known to be new adjustables
welded washers over every LCA mount- all were wallowed out
welded RS weld washers over the trackbar mounts- they were wallowed out
plated the frame over some frame cracks near the trackbar area
replaced the 4" coils with some stiffer 4" coils
swapped out the steering box for a redhead engineering steering box
flushed the PS system - found a lot of metal - old box had some noticeable play
already did before this :
new brakes (akebono upgrade)
new TREs
new pitman arm
new bilstein shocks all around
new trackbar heims
new tires (+ balanced)
new unit bearings
new driver side CV axle
conclusion:
so far it seems good. the only thing left is the ball joints, which the driver side checked out fine so I am assuming pass side is good but will check them too.
I highly recommend red head engineering for steering boxes.
plans:
build 2 across frame mounts similar to the RE trackbar mounts one in front and one behind the trackbar
torched out totally shot axle side UCA bushings and replaced with poly bushings
replaced UCAs with new stockers
replaced LCAS with known to be new adjustables
welded washers over every LCA mount- all were wallowed out
welded RS weld washers over the trackbar mounts- they were wallowed out
plated the frame over some frame cracks near the trackbar area
replaced the 4" coils with some stiffer 4" coils
swapped out the steering box for a redhead engineering steering box
flushed the PS system - found a lot of metal - old box had some noticeable play
already did before this :
new brakes (akebono upgrade)
new TREs
new pitman arm
new bilstein shocks all around
new trackbar heims
new tires (+ balanced)
new unit bearings
new driver side CV axle
conclusion:
so far it seems good. the only thing left is the ball joints, which the driver side checked out fine so I am assuming pass side is good but will check them too.
I highly recommend red head engineering for steering boxes.
plans:
build 2 across frame mounts similar to the RE trackbar mounts one in front and one behind the trackbar
- Location
- San Diego
this will not accomplish anything.
welding washers over the outer faces of the brackets will not make any difference.
if the mounts are wallowed out so bad that the inner sleeve of the bushing cannot achieve sufficient friction bond with the bracket then the INSIDE faces of the bracket need to be fixed.
Mike1331
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Folsom, CA
You playing around with wire speed? That's a lot of spatter. Even when I had that welder on flux core I could minimize the spatter quite well.
- Location
- sacramento
Yeah it only started doing this recently mike. I was being lazy. I probably had wire speed too fast. But i was punching through the frame too easily on other settings. If I was doing 1/4" to 1/4 there wouldnt be much
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
You are presuming that every joint is a friction joint and not a bearing joint, and further that the friction joint is never over loaded.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Cal said:
- Location
- San Diego
re-read his post. I am not presuming shit.
all of those mounts are designed exclusively around friction. none of them are "bearing joints". they all operate one one basis: the bolt is a clamp that develops a friction bond between the INNER FACES of the mount and the bushing sleeve. no amount of crap welded to the outside faces changes that.
IF the friction bond is overloaded, then the bolt will wallow out the mount, or bend/break. the bolt in those connections is not designed to be loaded in shear. ever.
eace:It worked fine for me for two years.re-read his post. I am not presuming shit.
all of those mounts are designed exclusively around friction. none of them are "bearing joints". they all operate one one basis: the bolt is a clamp that develops a friction bond between the INNER FACES of the mount and the bushing sleeve. no amount of crap welded to the outside faces changes that.
IF the friction bond is overloaded, then the bolt will wallow out the mount, or bend/break. the bolt in those connections is not designed to be loaded in shear. ever.
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
Rockclimber - I vaguely recall that this isn't the first time we've disagreed on this point in a thread.
Care to cite a source ? I mean, for all I know the engineers designed it exactly as you say. There is evidence to the contrary when you say weld washers won't / can't fix anything, though.
Care to cite a source ? I mean, for all I know the engineers designed it exactly as you say. There is evidence to the contrary when you say weld washers won't / can't fix anything, though.
- Location
- San Diego
what worked?
the source is the design of the joint. if they were designed to work any other way than clamp load, they (the engineers that designed the vehicle) would not put a bolt in there. they would put a hardened pin that is designed to be loaded in shear, and they would be press fit into the brackets.
Weld Washers accomplish a few things, they stiffen brackets, which helps them take hits from rocks, while allowing the use of lighter material in the bracket construction. they make it unnecessary to run regular washers, which is nice for field servicing.
they do not however fix wallowed holes.
if the hole is so wallowed out the inner bushing sleeve cannot achieve a significant friction bond with the bracket, then the type of washers needed are the kind that go inside the bracket and contact the inner bushing sleeve. in order for that to be necessary, the brackets have to be significantly wallowed. the bolt does not have to be a perfect fit, there can be a significant amount of room. when I weld brackets on I drill them out about 1/64" bigger than the bolt because it makes it way easier to get the bolt through the bracket. I have never wallowed out a bracket.
even from the factory there is a good size margin of error on the fit of the bolt in the bracket.
take a look at the front of a TJ sometime. the LCAs use slotted holes and the cam-washers are only there to locate it until the bolt is tight. the bolt is more than capable of holding the bushing in the mount where it needs to go with only a little over 50% of the bushing contacting. if the joint worked any other way those things would move around like crazy.
if you don't believe me, all you have to do is perform one test.
go out to your rig, and loosen the LCA bolts until they are just hand tight. and drive it around the block. if the joint works any other way, there will be no change. I know it doesn't and I know what will happen. but some people have to see for themselves.
- Location
- sacramento
Swapped in some legit rear leaves, deaver G9s.
Odd thing, the rig looks to sit perfectly level, but the pass side rear sits 5" lower than it did before. but the driver side is the same. I am sure that had a lot to do with things driving so weird.
had to drill out the leaf plate to 13/16" to accept the larger nut up top for the larger diameter bolt. drilled out the perches to 5/8 or 9/16.
I welded some washers over the pass side leaf mounts, they were both wallowed out.
Also had to grind down the rear bushings in the leaves a bit and sledge hammer the shackles out wider in a vice, it was a pretty significant difference even with the narrowest bushings.
grabbed longer 7/16" bolts for the 4* shims an ground down the heads.
the front looks taller which is fine. at this point if the rig is stable on the road Im not going to mess with it.
I have some legit TREs coming from Parts Mike tomorrow and more RSMX FK heims , and I have all the parts from Ruffstuff to redo the steering and go to an inverted T steering setup, and I need to cut off the trackbar mounts still and redo those. The 7100s will go in once everything is done. the rear shocks seem too long but Ill probably just run them for now.
Odd thing, the rig looks to sit perfectly level, but the pass side rear sits 5" lower than it did before. but the driver side is the same. I am sure that had a lot to do with things driving so weird.
had to drill out the leaf plate to 13/16" to accept the larger nut up top for the larger diameter bolt. drilled out the perches to 5/8 or 9/16.
I welded some washers over the pass side leaf mounts, they were both wallowed out.
Also had to grind down the rear bushings in the leaves a bit and sledge hammer the shackles out wider in a vice, it was a pretty significant difference even with the narrowest bushings.
grabbed longer 7/16" bolts for the 4* shims an ground down the heads.
the front looks taller which is fine. at this point if the rig is stable on the road Im not going to mess with it.
I have some legit TREs coming from Parts Mike tomorrow and more RSMX FK heims , and I have all the parts from Ruffstuff to redo the steering and go to an inverted T steering setup, and I need to cut off the trackbar mounts still and redo those. The 7100s will go in once everything is done. the rear shocks seem too long but Ill probably just run them for now.
- Location
- sacramento
