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...sorry...another build thread...

Both heims on the upper on the 3 link are shot. Realized it today after messing with that some more.

Overnighting FK heims for the upper, JMX 1.25 from Summit
also decided that screw the ruffstuff heims so I overnighted some more 7/8x7/8 for the drag link and a set of 7/8x3/4 RSMX heims for the tie rod.

Working on adding more support to the roll cage and installing the harnesses
 
I've replaced all the RuffStuff 1 1/4 heims on my ride with the FK JMX heims. They all started clunking, didn't last very long. Surprised they wore out so quick.

I sort of half assed checked that upper multiple times. Thought it was good, but it definitely shot. The only Ruffstuff heims left are the pass side lower 1.25 heims. I plan to phase in some FK JMX heims there too, but they still seem good.


on a side note, the rig weighs about 4600 pounds.
 
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So. I am starting to think that the 3" AAL i added to the pass side rear leaf pack is doing some weird stuff, maybe. Its probably way too stiff on the pass side rear. And the front coils being cut down. And I think I over charged the shocks with NO2.



I am looking into new rear leaves and front coils and shocks . Maybe 1 thing at a time or all once. I think my suspension is causing the last bit of weird handling...

Too stiff for crawling ? I almost wouldnt care if it drives better on road


Coils:
Be a little taller than I want but if they drop 1/2" to an 1" with all the weight up front that would be fine:
PAC 6" 220lb progressive

hair lower than I want but I can add an extra stock isolator -
PAC 4" 250lb progressive 4"



Leaves:
off the shelf Deaver 4" leaves
OR
Custom Deaver packs for my weight and desired lift (around 4.5+ lift plus my shackles to get about 5.75" to match the 6" front coils which will drop with all the weight ) of my 5500-6000 pound rig when its loaded. 4 weeks out

or what else?


shocks:
keep running my edelbrock reservoir monotubes
or
Bilstein 7100s ?
 
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deaver doesn't have an off the shelf 4" leaf. Their G9 is 4.5" that yields closer to 5" on most rigs, probably 4.5" on yours which is heavy.

If I were you, given the problems you have had, I would do the Deaver G9 leafs with whatever boomarang shackle you want (RE, JKS), and then add Deaver jeepspeed coils (5.5", 5" on your heavy rig).

The Deaver coils are 245/285 progressive.

The PAC coils would give you more sprung travel offroad, but the Deaver coils would give you a more stable highway ride, and given history...
 
deaver doesn't have an off the shelf 4" leaf. Their G9 is 4.5" that yields closer to 5" on most rigs, probably 4.5" on yours which is heavy.

If I were you, given the problems you have had, I would do the Deaver G9 leafs with whatever boomarang shackle you want (RE, JKS), and then add Deaver jeepspeed coils (5.5", 5" on your heavy rig).

The Deaver coils are 245/285 progressive.

The PAC coils would give you more sprung travel offroad, but the Deaver coils would give you a more stable highway ride, and given history...



The dealer coils sound pretty stiff, I am leaning towards the 220-250 lb PAC coils which are still well over the 180b rate in these 5.5"s as you said earlier.
 
They are more progressive than the pacs. We put them in a coil-o-meter (i dunno what its called) and they started around 215, were 240 at ride height, and 265 near bumpstop.

The pac's are progressive, but much less so, ranging from like 220 to 250 in their range.
 
They are more progressive than the pacs. We put them in a coil-o-meter (i dunno what its called) and they started around 215, were 240 at ride height, and 265 near bumpstop.

The pac's are progressive, but much less so, ranging from like 220 to 250 in their range.

OK good to know. I am torn between the PAC 220 progressives and the pac 250 progressives now. I plan to order them today or tomorrow before leaving . Probably from Jegs. I don't ever do go fast except for driving to the trail and trying not to roll on my way there...
 
When you droop, how far unseated are your coils?

The 220 will be longer uncompressed, the 250 will unseat more but be more firm on the road.

For a go-fast rig with a swaybar, the 220 would be how I would go. For a rock and road rig I'd go 250.
 
When you droop, how far unseated are your coils?

The 220 will be longer uncompressed, the 250 will unseat more but be more firm on the road.

For a go-fast rig with a swaybar, the 220 would be how I would go. For a rock and road rig I'd go 250.

works for me.

ill be ordering the 250b progressives then and see how that goes.

PACS are 211$ shipped from Jegs
 
FWIW we had the 6" 250's on 4643, took them off and now run 4" 250's with a 6" 100 pound tender coil stacked on top.

The 6" 250's were unseating about 2.5" when fully drooped out (13" 9100's). With the 4"+tender coil, i have to unbolt the limit strap and shock, and have sprung load for another 1.5" or so of travel.
 
cal and anyone else, whats your take on shocks
 
back in the day, i had cheap white shocks.

i replaced those with rancho 9000 adjustables, and it was life changing.

later, those got swapped out for some bilstein 5100's, and it changed my car.

when i polished my 30, i threw in some bilstein 7100 shortbody's at 255/70 and it took everything to a whole new level. i didnt think a car could handle that well!

broken one of those (shocks shouldnt be limit straps) and bought another pair at 275/78, and was even happier.


Then we built 4643, on 13" Bilstein 9100 2.65" shocks tuned by Bilstein, and it was a total new thing. Nothing I had ever driven before that was on the same planet.

Later we paid Wayne at Alltech Motorsports more than we paid for the shocks to retune the car, and he redefined fast for us yet again.


Get the best shock you can afford to buy. Each level is an order of magnitude better than the shock below it, the fun-per-dollar is increased with each new shock.



King makes the best full race shocks. You can try to argue it, but its like trying to talk to a tree. That said, there is a HUGE disparity between their race shocks and their 'pre runner' shocks that they sell to consumers. Those shocks are total junk, and still bloody expensive.

Fox also makes a great race shock. Again, going down in grade from full race and the quality doesn't pan out.

Bilstein makes an excellent race shock. They have the biggest body (2.65 over 2.5) in the class, they don't do 3.0 stuff like the bigger brands, but they have neat internal stuff the other vendors don't make that mostly make up for it.

More importantly, they have the best consumer level shocks available. The 2.0 9100 is attainable by pretty much anybody. The 7100 is not only way better than the consumer level fox or king shock, it comes prepackaged in a large assortment of valving and is tune able beyond that. Its commercially available in a short body config (they cut down the internal stop, and run a 12" shock in a 10" body, giving you 12" of travel at a 10" compressed length - great for our XJ's).

If you're trying to up your game, I would at minimum do a Bilstein 7100 shortbody shock. 12" all the way around, 255/70 or 275/78, or 200/100 if you have a swaybar.

Best deal outside of a buddy hookup is usually eshocks.com.
 
Get the best shock you can afford to buy. Each level is an order of magnitude better than the shock below it, the fun-per-dollar is increased with each new shock.

I would like to echo this statement. going from a cheap shock like an RE monotube to a quality shock like a 7100 or fox 2.0 is a huge difference. it completely changed the way my jeep drives and handles.


Later we paid Wayne at Alltech Motorsports more than we paid for the shocks to retune the car, and he redefined fast for us yet again.

Wayne does amazing work, he has tuned a couple sets of shocks for me. the difference is wild.
 
I have edelbrock monotube resizes now. I hit them with 220 PSI of No2 last October. They still seem ok.

I plan to go bilstein 275/78s in front.
 
We honestly prolly should have gone to a higher psi with your rig...especially since they weren't fully drooped when we charged them. I have to run 300 psi in the race truck. But yes those billys should improve things.
 
I would like to echo this statement. going from a cheap shock like an RE monotube to a quality shock like a 7100 or fox 2.0 is a huge difference. it completely changed the way my jeep drives and handles.




Wayne does amazing work, he has tuned a couple sets of shocks for me. the difference is wild.

I will third these statements. Similar story to Cal, went from a white body to fox 2.0s and I was blown away. I then had them valved by Wayne and it was like going from the white body to the 2.0.

If you are looking to simplify things, Wayne is a distributor for fox, so he can valve them before he ships them off to you.
 
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