831_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Santa Cruz
Holy hell that's sweet man
-
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...sorry...another build thread...
- Thread starter blondejoncherokee
- Start date
I'm sorry, but if it solves his problem, then who cares about how the brackets were originally designed? Jons problem was that the joint/bolt was moving inside of the bracket. He welded some weld washers to the outside of the bracket, and now the bolt/joint does not move like it did initially. To say that his original problem was not fixed by the use of these weld washers is ridiculous.
Jon, those G9s look sexy as hell. I'm curious to hear about how it rides.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Its useless Jeep450r, Rockclimber is an idiot. 
- Location
- sacramento
The G9s are way stiffer than the old BOR leaves. the other leaves would flex and flex jacking up the rear axle side to side and the G9s just have the axle hanging there.
I still cant believe that the pass side was a full 5" taller than now. thats nuts. I am quite sure that was causing problems.
I still cant believe that the pass side was a full 5" taller than now. thats nuts. I am quite sure that was causing problems.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
SHIT. I misread that as .5
You were really 5" off from side to side? Did you have a bent main leaf?
You think those G9's are stiffer, but when you get on the road they are just going to do everything you want them to, and then make you tea when they are done.
You were really 5" off from side to side? Did you have a bent main leaf?
You think those G9's are stiffer, but when you get on the road they are just going to do everything you want them to, and then make you tea when they are done.
- Location
- sacramento
I am Not sure about a bent main.
I meant the stiffer as a good thing. It must have been pretty soft.
Measurements ( pass side is a tube fender hodge lodge, driver is a stock all cut to hell awaiting tube work )
Tire to Fender
Before deavers:
Pass side : 11" driver 8.5"
After Deavers
pass side 6" and driver side 8.5"
driver side did not really change. Pass side had the 2 AAL. I don't know why added those leaves now since it was probably level before.
Mike1331
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Folsom, CA
Did you buy those directly from deaver?
- Location
- sacramento
No.
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
- Location
- sacramento
yeah exactly.
I measured to the bottom of the windows in the back and they are the same now. Must have been way off before. I also measured tail lights side to side and they are level as well too now. I think I was way off before when I put those AALs in there.
Oldmanxj
NAXJA Member #940
- Location
- Loomis, Ca
The right rear was one of the main pull points used to pull it back over. It may have caused it.
The Deavers look good.
The Deavers look good.
- Location
- San Diego
No.
He didn't change the design of the connection simply by welding washers to the outside.
The connection still works exactly the way it did. Clamp force of the bolt developing a friction bond between the inside faces of the bracket and the bushing sleeve. No amount of crap welded to the outside changes that in any way.
What he DID do was take that bolt out and the. Put it back in a re-tighten it. And when he did that, I am willing to bet he made sure it was fully tightened. THAT is what solved his problem.
All the weld washers did was force him to retighten the bolt.
My whole point behind this was to help him and anyone else realize that what's more important than anything here is to make sure the bolts are fully torqued. If that doesn't work then the bracket has to be fully repaired. Welding washers to the outside is not a fix.
And once again. If you still don't believe me, go out to your rig, loosen the LCA bolts until they are just hand tight and drive around.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I've driven mine with the LCA bolts on just a few threads. Noticed nothing.
At the end of the day, you're taking a great game of theory that means **** all in practice.
At the end of the day, you're taking a great game of theory that means **** all in practice.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Imo good info is always appreciated. Measuring dicks is not. There is a polite way to agree to dissagree and move on. You personaly contribute to page after page of pissing matches on this forum. To a point that is drowns out any good tech you have given. Not saying we dont all want to hear what you have to say. Please remember this is a place that everyone who would like to see whats going with johns rig doesnt really want to read your arguments.
- Location
- sacramento
Any recommendations on putting the rear shocks through the floor?
OK finished the ruffstuff inverted T steering tonight and did some fitment checking for the 7100s. I don't have enough down travel so I am going to weld some RS double shock mounts on top of my current shock mounts and that should get me at about 6" up and down whereas right now I am at like 4.5" down and like 6.75" up with the new 7100s.
the JKS stems work great with their spacers. their spacers are a tad bit wider than the one supplied by bilstein.
the ruffstuff mounts will require 1 washer in addition to the JKS spacers, and some extra cranking on the bolt.
my rear pass side shock ripped a reservoir off in reno. So I am swapping in some sweet shocks from the last part out until I can afford some more 7100s for the rear. the issue is, that they are longer than the current shocks, which sit with only 2.75" of up travel unloaded, so I need to go through the floor. Since I am starting to not give a crap about the rig as much , I plan to mount the shocks through the floor to get the needed down travel assuming an additional 1" of loss once fully loaded. right now if I put these new shocks on they would fully stuffed at ride height. Im just going to cut some holes in the floor and figure out some sort or mount for them.
I also plan to do something crazy: cut down on the weight - reduce tools and parts carried, and move the tire inside , remove some doors and glass too.
trackbar:
so the drag link is now only 34 from 38" previously. the trackbar is 31.5. I plan to just replace the bad heims on it now instead of re -doing the mounts and just running it as is, but down one notch on the mount at the axle to line it up with the drag link.
I also wallowed out the holes on the upper most mounting holes ever so slightly I noticed so its a good thing for that.
I should save a ton of time.
At this point, I just plan to buy 3 extra sets of 7/8thsx7/8ths heims and carry a bunch of spares instead of going down to 7/8x3/4, so I am heading to parts mike and ruffstuff to return all these 7/8x3/4 heims.
I welded in one rufstuff steering insert into one knuckle, left the other unwelded, and had parts mike do a 1 ton taper on a WJ pitman arm so its all legit.
If I can , I plan to have the thing drivable by tomorrow night or maybe saturday night. going to wizard con friday after work out here.
the current axle side stabilizer mount interferes with the tie rod now so Ill have to cut that off and redo it. I went with the ruffstuff adjustable stabilizer mount for the tie rod side
inverted T with cure spacer
welding crap
ruffstuff double shear shock mount, JKS spacers, 7100s, small gap with a washer
7100 in a JKS upper mount with JKS spacers
OK finished the ruffstuff inverted T steering tonight and did some fitment checking for the 7100s. I don't have enough down travel so I am going to weld some RS double shock mounts on top of my current shock mounts and that should get me at about 6" up and down whereas right now I am at like 4.5" down and like 6.75" up with the new 7100s.
the JKS stems work great with their spacers. their spacers are a tad bit wider than the one supplied by bilstein.
the ruffstuff mounts will require 1 washer in addition to the JKS spacers, and some extra cranking on the bolt.
my rear pass side shock ripped a reservoir off in reno. So I am swapping in some sweet shocks from the last part out until I can afford some more 7100s for the rear. the issue is, that they are longer than the current shocks, which sit with only 2.75" of up travel unloaded, so I need to go through the floor. Since I am starting to not give a crap about the rig as much , I plan to mount the shocks through the floor to get the needed down travel assuming an additional 1" of loss once fully loaded. right now if I put these new shocks on they would fully stuffed at ride height. Im just going to cut some holes in the floor and figure out some sort or mount for them.
I also plan to do something crazy: cut down on the weight - reduce tools and parts carried, and move the tire inside , remove some doors and glass too.
trackbar:
so the drag link is now only 34 from 38" previously. the trackbar is 31.5. I plan to just replace the bad heims on it now instead of re -doing the mounts and just running it as is, but down one notch on the mount at the axle to line it up with the drag link.
I also wallowed out the holes on the upper most mounting holes ever so slightly I noticed so its a good thing for that.
I should save a ton of time.
At this point, I just plan to buy 3 extra sets of 7/8thsx7/8ths heims and carry a bunch of spares instead of going down to 7/8x3/4, so I am heading to parts mike and ruffstuff to return all these 7/8x3/4 heims.
I welded in one rufstuff steering insert into one knuckle, left the other unwelded, and had parts mike do a 1 ton taper on a WJ pitman arm so its all legit.
If I can , I plan to have the thing drivable by tomorrow night or maybe saturday night. going to wizard con friday after work out here.
the current axle side stabilizer mount interferes with the tie rod now so Ill have to cut that off and redo it. I went with the ruffstuff adjustable stabilizer mount for the tie rod side
inverted T with cure spacer
welding crap
ruffstuff double shear shock mount, JKS spacers, 7100s, small gap with a washer
7100 in a JKS upper mount with JKS spacers
Last edited:
Mike1331
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Folsom, CA
Looken good. For the Shocks can you just run a horizontal bar connecting to both your c or d pillars? With the bends you need to bring it where the Shocks need to mount? I forget how your C&D pillars come down but I remember my shock hoop being pretty close my the c-pillar in my a old xj
Last edited:
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
How the hell does yours fit the stems... I sat both ours next to each other and the stem brackets were about the same
- Location
- sacramento
No clue.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Maybe something is up with your shocks Jensen.
Or user error.
Mine are snug too. Cant get a good photo at the angle they are mounted.
Or user error.
Mine are snug too. Cant get a good photo at the angle they are mounted.
Mike1331
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Folsom, CA
9100's? Nice
