Build thread: daily driven tow rig

[jeep ride]

My driver seat was broke and poorly welded with a bolt or two added in for good measure, I didn't realize how uncomfortable it was until I put zj seats in.

 

[Woodswanderer]

Oh, and ZJ rear seats are stalled currently until i can get hands on the lower seat mounts for the flanged crossmember. Otherwise they will be drilled and bolted thru and wont come out. Trying to find a way to make them fold relatively flat


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[Woodswanderer]

My driver seat was broke and poorly welded with a bolt or two added in for good measure, I didn't realize how uncomfortable it was until I put zj seats in.

I want the extra 1” of space that i gain using the WJ base. Found a writeup here that seems helpful. Plus heat and power lumbar/recline with actual headrests…

Basically seems like all i need to do is pound the front mounts out to match angle of xj ones, drill a few holes in the rear of the floor pan, move the seat adjuster hardware in the sliders back by drilling a hole in each side, and wire everything up for electrics.


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[jeep ride]

Sounds like that will be a big improvement over the factory seats.

 

[Woodswanderer]

Rear brake shoes are coming sooner rather than later. Inspection is up next month so time to crunch. Kind of dreading this job, last time i did one i reversed the parking brake shoe and had a drift jeep when i tapped the brakes. Problem is, both shoes look the same

Needs:

shoes/hardware/cylinders, im reusing the old drums, no turning.

Broken stud on the crossmember: 1” drop and azzy style ebay linkage need to go in while being fixed. I think i may cut some urethane mudflap sheeting and do a “gasket” between frame and tc drop blocks

Tailpipe needs bent and welded on. Hanger at the crossmember needs replaced/welded again.

Possibly the wj driver seat swap, or at least pulling and welding my seat frame. My mechanic is a bit OCD and anal and will ding for stupid shit when it comes to the state mandated stuff.

 

[Rob Mayercik]

I did my first drum job about 2 years ago, it really wasn't that bad. I actually held up the new shoes by the old ones a couple times before disassembling them, to be triple-sure I got the right ones in the right places (as well as only doing one side at a time)

A quick Google reveals FSM images that suggest that the front (leading) shoe should have a shorter lining area than the rear (trailing).

Spray some penetrant on the wheel cylinder fittings and bolts about a week ahead of the job - I did that and most of them unscrewed without a fight (one fitting rounded off when I put the wrench on it, but not because the threads were rusted).

 

[Woodswanderer]

I did my first drum job about 2 years ago, it really wasn't that bad. I actually held up the new shoes by the old ones a couple times before disassembling them, to be triple-sure I got the right ones in the right places (as well as only doing one side at a time)

A quick Google reveals FSM images that suggest that the front (leading) shoe should have a shorter lining area than the rear (trailing).

Spray some penetrant on the wheel cylinder fittings and bolts about a week ahead of the job - I did that and most of them unscrewed without a fight (one fitting rounded off when I put the wrench on it, but not because the threads were rusted).

Ive done drums on other vehicles, they dont really scare me overall. I just hate doing them lol.

Not too worried about the wheel cyl fittings, pb/heat/crows foot wrenches usually make short work of them. Almost have half a mind to leave them alone as long as they arent leaking

 

[Woodswanderer]

I wound up at the junkyard today… Ended up pulling some WJ rear seats that were in better shape than my CJ ones in the CJ auto dimming mirror. Does anybody have the wiring schematics for that mirror?


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[Woodswanderer]

Riding around a lot lately and im starting to suspect the squealing i get from the rear in corners is from the sway bar being off center or working too well with poly/thermoplastic bushings. I notice it more when the leverage is on the left rear wheel. Front could be in a similar pinch. The front links seem a bit short and i should find a replacement option.

Going to be taking it in for some serious work in the next few weeks, i’ll get it to a 4wd alignment shop and have them fix it up.

 

[maxbraketorque]

Riding around a lot lately and im starting to suspect the squealing i get from the rear in corners is from the sway bar being off center or working too well with poly/thermoplastic bushings. I notice it more when the leverage is on the left rear wheel. Front could be in a similar pinch. The front links seem a bit short and i should find a replacement option.

Going to be taking it in for some serious work in the next few weeks, i’ll get it to a 4wd alignment shop and have them fix it up.

Get rid of the rear sway bar.

 

[Woodswanderer]

Get rid of the rear sway bar.

I’d rather not… I mean I know it’s kind of useless given the size that it is but I’d rather have it back there lol. I drove around without the front connected and that sucked.


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[maxbraketorque]

I’d rather not… I mean I know it’s kind of useless given the size that it is but I’d rather have it back there lol. I drove around without the front connected and that sucked.


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Its no loss in drivability when removing the rear. In fact, the XJ is oversteer happy, and removing the rear sway bar will make it a little less oversteer happy.

 

[XJI6191]

Never even knew my latest XJ didn't have one 'til 1st time I had cause to remove a back wheel/get under it.

 

[Woodswanderer]

WJ rear seats went in, half assed at least. Had a passenger so i had to bolt up the backs. Still need more hardware for security.

I think the XJ is going to get relegated to strictly daily driven winter and hunting duty. Looking at a 10th gen suburban for towing and seating capacity. Extra seating is a must when your Amish neighbor calls and says hey can you give us a ride? . Plus, 2x the towing capacity of the XJ at the same price as modding XJ to tow 5500lb

 

[Anak]

I love Suburbans. I own two. A '73 and an '02. Both are K2500 big blocks. The '02 is currently The Bride's DD. The '73 is in retirement due to serious body rust. Previous owner used to run it through the surf in Baja. I need to either find a donor body, or decide to cut out all the rust and turn it into an open top oversized trail buggy.

 

[Woodswanderer]

I love Suburbans. I own two. A '73 and an '02. Both are K2500 big blocks. The '02 is currently The Bride's DD. The '73 is in retirement due to serious body rust. Previous owner used to run it through the surf in Baja. I need to either find a donor body, or decide to cut out all the rust and turn it into an open top oversized trail buggy.

This one is an ‘08 1500 with 220k miles. Ask is $5500 but im not budging more than $4k plus tags if i do pull the trigger. He can pay title and notary fees (his son in a notary…family “discount” ). Im on the fence and need to sleep on it for the night, look around a bit more. Hard to find around here…

Passenger side rocker is rusted thru below the rear door, i can almost put a flat hand thru it (4-5” long). New rocker is $50 online, and i’ll wind up putting $1k into it for maintenance and preventative repair/refreshing for a trailer.

XJ may have a new home too if this happens, but id almost rather keep it as a daily driver unless need arises for more seating and a trailer towing

 

[Woodswanderer]

Bought the Suburban. Jeep needs a new home (“need” is a stretch, but the right offer i wouldnt say no).

Anyone want a relatively rust free chassis with a strong running driveline? Ready for trail duty with lift ans tires plus supporting mods.


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[Woodswanderer]

Nothing new to report. Shes up for salw officially, asking $5k obo. SEPA, lehigh valley-ish. Will soon be parked at my buddies gun shop with a for sale sign on it