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Project 2000 XJ (Daily Driver)

I took my first UOA since the injectors were installed. And much to my surprise, I now have the best UOA on record. Before, fuel dilution was being flagged. The OE injectors leaked too much fuel or something because the fuel dilution caused viscosity to decrease below grade.

Amsoil Oil Filter
Amsoil 10W30 OE oil

Oil sample duration:
6 months on lube
1,282 miles on lube
181,212 miles on engine

Iron 10
Chromium 0
Nickel 0
Aluminum 2
Copper 4
Lead 0
Tin 0
Cadmium 0
Silver 0
Vanadium 0
Silicon 10
Sodium 5
Potassium 5
Titanium 0
Molybdenum 72
Antimony 0
Manganese 0
Lithium 0
Boron 156
Magnesium 10
Calcium 1992
Barium 0
Phosphorous 622
Zinc 673

Fuel Dilution <1
Viscosity 100*C 9.9
 
Have you run longer distances on your UOA? I am going to do one in the near future and I am curious as to what my iron ppm runs compared to yours.
Is yours always in the 10ppm range?
 
Have you run longer distances on your UOA? I am going to do one in the near future and I am curious as to what my iron ppm runs compared to yours.
Is yours always in the 10ppm range?

At this time, the XJ is primarily being used as a utilitarian vehicle; therefore higher mileage has not been the case. The sample above was taken from 6 months of oil usage. I realize that 1,282 miles on the lube is low mileage; however, it is hard mileage. I drive 1 mile to work, 1 mile home for lunch, back to work, and back home. The Jeep goes through lots of cold morning startups. As an example, it was 19* degrees Fahrenheit yesterday morning. On the weekends I drive to the property (10 miles one way) with an average speed of 20mph – 30mph. When out on the property, the Jeep is towing fairly heavy loads of firewood and brush with an average speed of 5 mph – 20 mph and sometimes with 4wheel drive engaged. Between dusty conditions, numerous startups and shutdowns, cold morning starts, towing, and low speed driving, these are hard miles.

Here are my Iron numbers:
23 IRON, 04/09/2010, 2,113 miles on lube, 171,673 miles on engine
16 IRON, 11/21/2010, 2,358 miles on lube, 174,257 miles on engine
5 IRON, 03/06/2011, 1,175 miles on lube, 175,994 miles on engine
11 IRON, 03/26/2012, 924 miles on lube, 179,846 miles on engine
10 IRON, 10/19/2012, 1,282 miles on lube, 181,212 miles on engine
 
Can you give me a job working wherever you do?
SOMEBODY'S GOT BANK!

Nah, we just try to live life as debt free as possible, which is very difficult to do. We don’t even have credit cards. :D
 
We also have a 2007 Jeep Liberty that we mainly use for transportation. It’s what we drive when we need to get into town for supplies. The Selec-Trac is especially nice for roads with intermittent snow and ice. Since the XJ gets driven on a daily basis as a commuter to work and for weekend work, the KJ only gets driven a few times per month. We bought the KJ new in February 2007 and only have 35,000 miles on it.

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Nah, we just try to live life as debt free as possible, which is very difficult to do. We don’t even have credit cards. :D

Good for you guys!! My wife and I do the same... Debt Free. Live like nobody else, so later you can LIVE like nobody else! ;)

Oh, and my wife has an '03 KJ Liberty that's paid for as well as my '01 XJ. :)
 
From time to time I get questions about the FFD aluminum radiator and triple fan kit. So I thought I would answer some of them here. At the time of posting this, I have had the new setup installed for 6 months.

The aluminum radiator was very impressive out of the box. I have no data to make specific claims, but the all-aluminum 2 core radiator seems like it would be superior over the stock radiator in its ability to cool. With that being said, I’ve been told that the OE mechanical and electric fan can flow an estimated 5200 CFM (4000 CFM for the mechanical and 1200 CFM for the electric) whereas the FFD triple fan kit can only flow 3300 CFM (1100 CFM for each fan). Based on this information, one would conclude that the stock setup flows more air.

Normally, I would never abandon the mechanical fan. As a matter of fact, I upgraded to the Mopar Heavy Duty Cooling fan kit on my 2007 KJ because it only came with the electric fan. But since my XJ is primarily used for local utilitarian purposes (towing a firewood trailer, hauling brush, commuting to work and back, etc) I decided that the advantages switching to an all-electric system would outweigh the disadvantageous. There is a small gain in horsepower by reducing parasitic loss from the crankshaft, which also reduces engine stress and increases fuel efficiency. For those who are looking for noise reduction, the FFD fans are significantly quieter than the stock setup. And lastly, this kit has an optional manual switch so you can turn the fan’s on and off at your leisure. You can also set the thermostat to kick the fans on automatically.

To date, I have not had any overheating problems. One advantage to living at 7,000 feet is that we rarely see summer temperatures above 92*F, however, I believe that the low humidity and thin high altitude air works against me since there isn’t much dense air for the fans to push. I’ve towed 2,000 lbs with the AC on at speeds as low as 20-30 mpg without any major heating issues. If you are into hardcore off-roading, towing, or working your Jeep in high ambient temperatures, this kit might not be the best option. Again, lower altitude and higher humidity might make a measureable difference, I really don't know. I saw temperatures rise when I was towing 2,000 lbs at low speeds in mountainous terrain with the AC on, but they dropped as soon as the terrain leveled out. I will say that my temperatures never got high enough to cause me to be concerned.

Since installing the radiator, I’ve had several leaks. Thankfully, all the leaks “so far” have been fittings and/or plugs. My first leak was from the aluminum threaded cap on the front side of the radiator. I was told that this threaded fitting was designed for the European models. FFD told me to silicon the threaded cap and that would solve the problem. So, that’s what we did and we haven’t had any problems since. I just wished that piece of information would have been in the install directions.

The next leak came from the plastic drain plug. After calling FFD, they told me to upgrade to the nicer threaded brass drain plug. They sent me the new "upgraded drain plug" for free. We installed the new brass drain plug and haven’t had a leak since. So if you order this kit, I would suggest asking for the upgraded drain plug.

My current leak started a few weeks ago when temperatures were dipping down to 5* degrees at night. I’m not sure, but it seems that the aluminum is contracting and expanding with our extreme temperatures resulting in early morning leaks. Once the radiator is warm, the leak stops for the remainder of the day. I’m hoping that my current leak is coming from the fitting rather than the welded seem. I will update this thread on the final results.

Two months after the install, the fans were working loose from the radiator. I called FFD and they said that I needed to put a dab of superglue on the tie straps to keep them from separating. Again, this step was not in the directions. FFD sent me new tie straps and super glue free of charge. Once we installed the new tie straps and dabbed them with super glue, the fans appear to be holding up just fine. I drive on very aggressive washboard roads a lot.

Overall, I want to be clear, FFD’s customer service has been great. They were quick to answer my questions, quick to find a solution to my problems, and quick to send out replacement parts free of charge.

Anyway, this will answer some of your questions. Let me know if you need pictures, more information, etc. I’d be happy to help in any way that I can.
 
Thanks for this update...

I've been in contact w/ FFD about purchasing one of their extreme kits (radiator, fans and shroud) and based on emails we've exchanged, and the problems I've had w/2 all aluminum radiators leaking (not FFD units)...

They've advised against me buying one of theirs. They advised just buying another OE plastic tank radiator as they feel my jeep (and many others they've see) has some sort of frame or tank support damage. Since the all aluminum radiators have no give/flex, they feel another one would leak again. Since the OE units are plastic tanks and have a rubber gasket they feel it would be my best bet.

The problem w/that is, EVERY single OE plastic tanked Radiator I've ever had leaked. In 3 of my XJ's, in my wifes Liberty and in a friends Grand Cherokee... all leaked where the plastic and aluminum are pinched together.

I wonder if there is something one could use to prevent chassis/frame flex and solve this leaking radiator issue. Shock tower brace, frame bracing, etc??? Any ideas on this anyone?
 
They've advised against me buying one of theirs. They advised just buying another OE plastic tank radiator as they feel my jeep (and many others they've see) has some sort of frame or tank support damage. Since the all aluminum radiators have no give/flex, they feel another one would leak again. Since the OE units are plastic tanks and have a rubber gasket they feel it would be my best bet.

Yeah thats not true at all. The radiator isn't fix mounted to the chassis for that reason. The leaking primarily stems from a lack of quality control that comes from cheap chinese manufacturing. Several chinese mfg's that I've delt with don't even bother to pressure test to check for leaks. A company I work for (not my company) gets a couple products mfg'd over seas, and we have to pressure check/fix every one.

I run a champion all aluminum in my rig, and other than fixing a leak before I installed it, it's been great.
 
Thanks Boostwerks... that's what I was thinking. The Radiator isn't fixed/mounted to the frame... it's sitting in rubber sleves and then bolted down by the top bracket and that's not all that stiff of a mount either.

I think my two Champion's where just poorly welded and/or not pressure tested to begin with. Or, it could just be a poor luck on the second one I installed... who knows. I wish I could weld aluminum as I'd just fix the 2-Core Champion I have and be done with it. I'll ask them at FFD on Monday if they pressure test their radiators and get some additional details.
 
No problem. It sucks that the US dealers usually just assume that MFG did their due dilegence in producing the product, when in reality they don't give two cents whether or not it's a quality product. They make it look good enough to make the sale, and thats it.

Hell we just had a batch of flanges come in that we're zinc plated mild steel that we're supposed to be 304L stainless steel. Our only option is to scrap them and order from a different supplier. If it we're up to me we would never use a chinese supplier, but when the cost is typically 10% of everyone else it makes for a hard sell. :patriot:
 
Two months after the install, the fans were working loose from the radiator. I called FFD and they said that I needed to put a dab of superglue on the tie straps to keep them from separating. Again, this step was not in the directions. FFD sent me new tie straps and super glue free of charge. Once we installed the new tie straps and dabbed them with super glue, the fans appear to be holding up just fine. I drive on very aggressive washboard roads a lot.
The true solution to that is to go with a proper shround and mount the fans to that. I believe FFD offers such a shroud. I've had too man problems with those zip tie things eating up the radiator core over time.

I'v been interested in the FFD Aluminum radiator. But not their fan kit, but Dirtbound's fan kit. I like the shroud that dirt bound has better.

How are the welds on the FFD radiator and over all build? I've seen the Champion radiators and heard the problems with them and would not run one.
 
How are the welds on the FFD radiator and over all build? I've seen the Champion radiators and heard the problems with them and would not run one.

It appears to be a very well built radiator with attention to detail. I made the decision to purchase the FFD radiator based on the results of others who have installed them. In other words, I haven’t heard of anyone being disappointed in the quality of the radiator. Take a look and tell me what you think?

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Debt free, driving into town for "supplies"...

Sounds like my kinda life. No wait, it is my kinda life. ;)

Keep the updates coming!!!
 
Debt free, driving into town for "supplies"...

Sounds like my kinda life. No wait, it is my kinda life. ;)

Keep the updates coming!!!

We might be marginalized by some as being doomsday preppers. I don’t know how long our economy is going to hold, but we are trying to build a home in a remote location and become as self-sufficient as possible. As libertarians, we don’t trust the government or the dollar, so we are paying off our debts. We stopped using credit cards in 2009, been paying off student loans, and have converted our cash assets into tangible items. The nearest grocery store is an hour away, so we do stock up on food. We will heat with wood and drink from our own well water. It’s a good life.
 
It appears to be a very well built radiator with attention to detail. I made the decision to purchase the FFD radiator based on the results of others who have installed them. In other words, I haven’t heard of anyone being disappointed in the quality of the radiator. Take a look and tell me what you think?


Looks quite a bit better than the Champions. For the money its pretty good though... its no Ron Davis($756) or Griffin ($545). However it also doesn't appear to be made in the US, which I was under the assumption that FFD's radiators were. The 1.1 Bar rad cap and that weird port are hints.


Any other info on that other driver's side port? I wonder what it was used for in Europe.
 
Looks quite a bit better than the Champions.

Talyn, unfortunetly the FFD is the same radiator as the champion. Just different dealers and FFD spray paints their logo on there. Either way, if you decide to get one, have it pressure tested before installing!
 
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Dirty dirty dirty
Directly from FFD regarding availability of the radiator:
We will begin to build them again in about 1-2 months, when our techs get some time.

Unless they changed recently.
 
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