Project 2000 XJ (Daily Driver)

[iluv83vettes]

It can make the battery lose its "holding power" a little faster.

 

[sidewaysstarion]

You are correct. The key is to have a proper functioning PCM. Thanks for pointing that out. Here's my question: Will a quicker charge have any ill-effects?

It wont be a "quicker" charge, it just means the alternator will hit peak output at a lower engine rpm but it would sap more horse power to turn since you're essentially putting taller gears on it.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

It wont be a "quicker" charge, it just means the alternator will hit peak output at a lower engine rpm but it would sap more horse power to turn since you're essentially putting taller gears on it.

Thanks for the clarification sidewaysstarion.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

It can make the battery lose its "holding power" a little faster.

Good info. Thanks!

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Just curious... what's your oil pressure at idle after Jeep reaches operating temperature?

Are you looking for readings from the diagnostic tool, OE gauge, or the mechanical gauge?

 

[dieselenthusiast]

I upgraded my battery today. I went with the Sears Diehard which is a rebadged Odyssey battery, part #ODY34-PC1500.

Sears Diehard Platinum P1 group 34
Battery Specifications:
10.85" Long, 6.76" Wide, 7.82" Tall, 51.5 lbs
CCA: 880 amps
MCA: 1050 amps
Voltage: 12V
Capacity: 68 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: 135 minutes

Here’s the price difference:
Odyssey $470.00
Sears DieHard $220.00

 

[dieselenthusiast]

I added a locking gas cap to help prevent tampering. My only complaint is that the cap does not tether to the hinged door like the OE cap does.

Murray Ultra Locking Gas Cap
Part # 59070
Price $15.99

 

[jeepdreamer]

You could always drill a small hole in the extra ribbing of the cap and use a small piece of wire to tether the cap to the jeep.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

You could always drill a small hole in the extra ribbing of the cap and use a small piece of wire to tether the cap to the jeep.

That idea did cross my mind. I'm looking at a few different options. I’ll be sure to post the final results.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

I’ve been looking at different types of window deflectors for the Jeep Cherokee. After off-roading in a vehicle that uses window deflectors, I really saw the practical purposes for having them. I like that they reduce wind noise, shield rain/snow while letting the cab vent air, and they help reduce window fogging. I also like the fact that I can crack the window (reducing carbon monoxide) during the winter months and not have to worry about letting too much cold air in. In the summer months, I can reduce interior heat and drive down gravel/dirt roads without letting too much dust into the cab.

In my search, I compared the Rugged Ridge, AVS Aerovisor and the WeatherTech. I decided that the best option would be the WeatherTech Deflector because they do not use double sided exterior tape for the install. Instead, they slip into the channels with adhesive to best secure them. However, others who have the WeatherTechs say that they hold themselves into place even without the need for adhesive. In that case, the WeatherTech is somewhat "removable" whereas the others are more "permanent". I would like to repaint my Jeep at some point and it’s nice knowing that the WeatherTechs can be removed and replaced.

 

[LYKOS]

I got a set of generic Autozone/Advance Auto/Walmart window deflectors back in 2004 for my 01. Only last year did they show any signs of cracking and the double sided tape has held up VERY well.

Whatever brand you choose, I'd go cheap just because I've had good luck with these, you will love them!

I'm one of those people that has a window cracked open EVERY time I drive. No matter the temp or the weather. The reduction in wind noise is amazing.

I like the fact I can leave m windows cracked a little when parked, without drawing the attention of thieves, when it's hot so as to let some of the heat escape.

THIS is a good investment for a DD Expo type rig.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

THIS is a good investment for a DD Expo type rig.

I agree!

 

[dieselenthusiast]

http://www.blackmagicbrakes.com/
XJ 4WD 00-01 Front Black Magic Brake Pad, Calipers, Rotors
KIT: Jeep XJ 4WD 2000 – 2001
Cost: $290

Includes parts for both Passenger and Driver sides
•Front - Black Magic Brake Pads
•Front - Stock Replacement Premium Zinc Plated Calipers
•Front - Centric Premium Rotors

The new rotors, calipers, and brakes are installed. I just finished the second day of breaking in the pads. I was in dire need for new brakes and the Black Magic did the trick. Now I need to swap out the rear drums for disc brakes.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Living at 7,000 feet poses a few challenges with cold weather being one of them. We’ve seen temperatures as low as -29. For this reason, we have OE block heaters on all of our vehicles for easier startups and quicker warm-ups. Initially, we had to lift the hood on the Cherokee whenever we wanted to plug in the block heater. Two years ago, I decided to reroute the cord to the front of the grille. The new location made the plug accessible for easier operation; however, the cord dangled from the front grille which further exposed the cord to the elements. So, I decided to find a better solution. I’m going to use a Marinco 150BBI Charger Inlet.

 

[Talyn]

Wow $165 for brake pads.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Wow $165 for brake pads.

According to their website, the Black Magic pads are $125.00. I'm not sure what you are referring to.

 

[DanMan2k06]

Bro, but they've got black magic in them!! I've heard nothing but good about the BM combo, the pads are just a little too expensive for my liking. I have those rotors on our Sube LGT though and theyve been great.

On a side note, that battery is diesel. I have the same one. Mil-spec, dry cell, and a decade-long warranty. Can't say I've put it through any rigorous testing, but I sure hope it lasts.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

I wanted to eliminate the clanking, rattling, and jarring that’s coming from the rear ball mount. After looking at different options, I went with SOFTRIDE’s anti-rattle hitch pin. It works by reducing the extra space between the ball mount and receiver tube. Basically, a nut is fitted inside the ball mount and is tightened up to 60 ft. lbs by a threaded pin. Overall, it looks like a quality part and the install went smooth. I’ll give an update once I test it on a few rough roads and trailer towing.

SOFTRIDE
Stainless Steel Locking, Anti-Rattle Threaded Hitch Pin
Fits 2" Trailer Hitches
10,000 lb Towing Capacity
$33.29

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Living at 7,000 feet poses a few challenges with cold weather being one of them. We’ve seen temperatures as low as -29. For this reason, we have OE block heaters on all of our vehicles for easier startups and quicker warm-ups. Initially, we had to lift the hood on the Cherokee whenever we wanted to plug in the block heater. Two years ago, I decided to reroute the cord to the front of the grille. The new location made the plug accessible for easier operation; however, the cord dangled from the front grille which further exposed the cord to the elements. So, I decided to find a better solution. I’m going to use a Marinco 150BBI Charger Inlet.

I have no clue where I’m going to install it, but I’ll post pics once the install is complete.

Marinco 150BBI Charger Inlet
$18.28

No matter where I install it, I will need a 1 7/8" hole saw.

 

[USMCGunrock]

Diesel, you've really built up your toy, haven't u? nice!