How "built" should you build a D60?

[94xjsport94]

I have a friend who wants to trade my his 98 E350 FF D60 with 32 spline shafts and 3.55's for a set of lights i won at an event last weekend, so i would have $40 in this complete housing. This model should have the big bore spindles to accept 35 spline shafts, smooth bottom, thick tubes, blah blah blah. End goal, i'd like to run 40's under my Jeep. With that being said, is it worth going to 35 spline shafts? Chromo or not? Looking to do 35 spline side gears, thick cut gears, welded, and maybe a small truss just enough for upper mounts if i ever link it.

Is it worth all the parts for this, or should i just look into a Sterling or a 14b? Atlanta area hasnt yielded much by way of CL or any forums for project axles or built ones lately. This would be sitting in the garage for a while, I'm still pretty happy with my current set up.

 

[knucklehead 61]

i prefer 14b for the rear.
stoopid strong even with stock shafts. (i run 42's on mine)
super easy gear setup.
if you install a tmr custome shave kit you will gain about 2.25" more clearance.
hello, pinion guard!
they are cheap to free.
simple disc brake conversion.

 

[94xjsport94]

Thats what my plan was, but i cant find a cheap one to save my life. I suppose someone on Hardline would have one, but there is just nothing close to me. I found a shaved, geared, locked one on CL a few months back for $850. Probably should have bought it.

 

[foxwar71]

Did the 98's get the factory disks? If it already had all the brake stuff then all I would add is a set of cut-to-length chromo shafts and matching side gears. Couple people in the NAC have that setup and it works fine. Couple of us also have 14b's that work fine too, me included. I shaved it myself and only added the disks, stock shafts work fine.

 

[94xjsport94]

Did the 98's get the factory disks? If it already had all the brake stuff then all I would add is a set of cut-to-length chromo shafts and matching side gears. Couple people in the NAC have that setup and it works fine. Couple of us also have 14b's that work fine too, me included. I shaved it myself and only added the disks, stock shafts work fine.

Apparently it is only 99's and up with disc brakes. This one has complete drum assemblies, minus one drum. I'll be doing disc brakes.

I've seen a few threads from Vendors saying that Chromo 30's are as strong as stock 35 shafts. Should i just venture into finding some spare 32 spline shafts or go full chromo and keep the stock ones are spares?

 

[Gasman]

What is that D60 worth in your area? If you can get some $$ out of it, maybe trade for it then sell to fund a 14B. Wierd, 14 bolts are a dime a dozen out here in the west (but good luck on a front D60!) I'd recommend converting to 35 spline and be done with it if you go the 60 route, then you are only setting up gears once, etc. Especially pushing 40's around.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

Just get cromo 35 spline shafts and not have to worry again

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

Also rear disc are simple, ruff stuff d70 brackets extended .25" to fit over 99 e350 rotors and 77 3/4 ton Chevy calipers

 

[EricsXJ]

Sounds like you have a Dana 60-ISU. I love that axle and have one under my rig. I have 35-spline chromos, ARB, Chevy 3/4-ton disc brakes and I would not hesitate to run 40's on it. Currently just 37's with no fear of it breaking. I went further and narrowed it to center the diff and trussed it with an Artec truss. Has super beefy tubes but truss was needed for the 4-link uppers.

After seeing this axle side by side with a standard 3/4-ton 60, there's really no comparison other than the ring and pinion are the same size.

Have plenty of info on it in this thread: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1079325 or on my website http://ericsxj.com/. Even more info, in particular to narrowing it in my new book (see website).

I'm not saying this axle is better than a 14-bolt but it has some advantages and is certainly strong enough for 40's.

 

[94xjsport94]

I live west of Atl, most axles in metro Atl are $150-400. That's depending on brake set ups, and a lot of those 14b's have the gov lock carrier. They are all anywhere from an hour to two hours from my house since I live out in the sticks.

Would 99+ discs from a 60 work on the 98 housing? I could get some from a PaP and do that or the Ruffstuff kit. I don't know if the caliper brackets are welded on or anything.

Going 35 off the bat sounded like the right thing to do. Once and done. Any reason to avoid thick cut gears with the 4:10 and below carrier that it has to weld it, or should I look into a spool?

 

[XJLI]

IMHO, its best to run a selectable rear and spool/lock the front and run assist. your turning radius will be MUCH better that way. as for brakes, do as rob said a few posts up

Also rear disc are simple, ruff stuff d70 brackets extended .25" to fit over 99 e350 rotors and 77 3/4 ton Chevy calipers

 

[Gasman]

Nothing wrong with thick cut gears but I prefer a spool just because I've seen too many welded carriers explode.

 

[MoparManiac]

I run the axle you're talking about with an ARB and Yukon cut to length 35 spline chromos. The shafts were pretty cheap, I believe ~$300 for both.

This thing will hold up no problem to a stock 4.0 and 40s. I run it behind a ~400-450HP mild 440 big block with an NV4500 and 241/205 doubler on 40s. I have yet to break a single thing on it.

Check out these brackets that just came out:
http://www.stinkyfab.com/axle-parts/brakes/ford-e350-dana-60-rear-caliper-mounts.html

The only downfall of the axle is how low the calipers hang on the disc brake axles. Those mounts move them up and let you keep the big dual piston calipers. I would contact them and see if they can cut you a set that will bolt up to the drum brake axles (the backing plate flange is square instead of trapezoid) and then you can just snag some stock stuff.

 

[foxwar71]

IMHO, its best to run a selectable rear and spool/lock the front and run assist. your turning radius will be MUCH better that way. as for brakes, do as rob said a few posts up

This.


I cant wait until I have the cash to ditch the spool in my 14b. Having a spool out back kills the turning radius more the anything else.

 

[94xjsport94]

Yep, that's all about money. I'm still a poor college kid ballin on a budget. I want to run one tons and 40's, but I dread the rework and downtime to do everything. That's why buying built is so appealing to me, minus the mounting rework for what I want to do with the sheet metal. I think I'm going through with the trade though. $40 in LED's, or a good base 60? Clear choice for me!

 

[94xjsport94]

I ran the BOM number (605684-7) and it came up as a 95-96 axle. IIRC those are not a year with the big bore spindles, right? I'm supposed to trade him tonight.

 

[EricsXJ]

I'm pretty sure all E350 rear ends have the large spindles. Mine was a '89... Before you buy it look for "60-ISU" on the webs of the center section or better yet pull a shaft and measure the spindle.

 

[94xjsport94]

Its in the back of my truck in my driveway. Thanks Eric. It seems that even earlier models than 89's have the bigger bore spindles, I find it hard to imagine a change for a few random years... I'll check the center section tomorrow morning.

 

[94xjsport94]

It is indeed a 60-ISU. I think I'm going to step my end goal tire size down and run 37's.