Make sure the D35 is a non-c-clip model. The non-c-clip axle is preferred (and you want to know so the spare axles will fit.
Look at the axle tube ends and see if they flare out to a larger tube diameter (just like the 90 axle currently under your XJ). The non-c-clip models flare out to a larger diameter to fit the larger bearing (c-clip models simply keep the same tube diameter all the way to the brake backing plate).
Consider adding a truss to the D35, while it is on the floor. Find a welding shop and have them use 2x2 or other tube stock and weld an "over the pumpkin" style truss (no loss in ground clearance). This takes a nickel rod to mate the steel to the iron pumpkin and a good hitch welding shop should know what is needed. You do not need an elaborate structure, just something that bridges the axle tubes on either side of the pumpkin about six inches out. This keeps the housing and carrier from flexing. Flex kills the D35.
If you currently run axle shims, to correct a pinion angle and vibration problem (or SYE), now is the time to have someone rotate the leaf pads to make the correction without shims. It is also the time to rotate the rear shock mounts to equalize the shock lengths. Plan to cut & raise the rear shock mounts even with the bottom of the axle tubes (more ground clearance) while you are doing the work.
Diff guards are good insurance.
The front D30 can be improved with later model larger u-joint XJ or YJ (Spicer 297X) axles and stub axles (your 90 model has the 260X u-joints). This is not needed until you start breaking things (or have a similar opportunity to swap in a later axle with the larger u-joints). The Warn shafts are good (much debate found in the archives) but not needed until you get those 33's (or push the rig).
Buy a pinion yoke for the D30 that uses the u-bolt style drive shaft attachment (~$40). It is a stronger method than the stock strap design. The time to make the swap is when you set up the pinion depth (gear setup for the 4.10's). It's overkill for 31's, but plan ahead.
You may consider a locker in the front axle. You have to purchase a 4-series carrier anyway (so a locker or LSD is only a few $$$ more while it is apart). A locker can be added to an open carrier later, so don't sweat it now if the $$$ are tight.
Happy Trails!
By Ed Stevens
Originated from a post on the
Modifications Tech Forum
, and the author of this tech article disclaim any and all liability associated with any "do it yourself" vehicle modifications and/or repairs.
Content © 1999- 2002 North American XJ Association
Look at the axle tube ends and see if they flare out to a larger tube diameter (just like the 90 axle currently under your XJ). The non-c-clip models flare out to a larger diameter to fit the larger bearing (c-clip models simply keep the same tube diameter all the way to the brake backing plate).
Consider adding a truss to the D35, while it is on the floor. Find a welding shop and have them use 2x2 or other tube stock and weld an "over the pumpkin" style truss (no loss in ground clearance). This takes a nickel rod to mate the steel to the iron pumpkin and a good hitch welding shop should know what is needed. You do not need an elaborate structure, just something that bridges the axle tubes on either side of the pumpkin about six inches out. This keeps the housing and carrier from flexing. Flex kills the D35.
If you currently run axle shims, to correct a pinion angle and vibration problem (or SYE), now is the time to have someone rotate the leaf pads to make the correction without shims. It is also the time to rotate the rear shock mounts to equalize the shock lengths. Plan to cut & raise the rear shock mounts even with the bottom of the axle tubes (more ground clearance) while you are doing the work.
Diff guards are good insurance.
The front D30 can be improved with later model larger u-joint XJ or YJ (Spicer 297X) axles and stub axles (your 90 model has the 260X u-joints). This is not needed until you start breaking things (or have a similar opportunity to swap in a later axle with the larger u-joints). The Warn shafts are good (much debate found in the archives) but not needed until you get those 33's (or push the rig).
Buy a pinion yoke for the D30 that uses the u-bolt style drive shaft attachment (~$40). It is a stronger method than the stock strap design. The time to make the swap is when you set up the pinion depth (gear setup for the 4.10's). It's overkill for 31's, but plan ahead.
You may consider a locker in the front axle. You have to purchase a 4-series carrier anyway (so a locker or LSD is only a few $$$ more while it is apart). A locker can be added to an open carrier later, so don't sweat it now if the $$$ are tight.
Happy Trails!
By Ed Stevens
Originated from a post on the
Modifications Tech Forum, and the author of this tech article disclaim any and all liability associated with any "do it yourself" vehicle modifications and/or repairs. Content © 1999- 2002 North American XJ Association
