Cage construction

Just do a full C pillar hoop (copy of the B) and then just run typical to what you have now back from that.
 
Rawbrown said:
I had question, Dave, Paul, Goat and capt. about what size fuel cell to run. 10-12 is doeable. I'm looking at the 12Gallon cell from Jaz products. measures 17.5L x 16 W x 10 H. the next step down from Jaz is 8 gallons. There are probably others out there, but Jaz makes em clear if you want. Also, sink the fuel cell down in between the frame rails, that will clear the diff. That should keep the COG lower. But leave the roof as it is. I should be right behind you as soon as I can get some $$$ for the tubing.

I would go with the 10-12 size. My 16 is larger than I would buy now.
 
So whats going on? Did you give up?
 
ROBERTK said:
So whats going on? Did you give up?

It takes a bit of time to get much done when you only get a couple of hours in the morning.

I'll post up some progress shots tomorrow.

This morning I got my sorry arse up at 4:00am to just clean up the garage.
Its not that hard getting up that early. What surprised me was when I opened the garage door and you could feel the heat coming out!

Rick

Its only 114* today, a regular cooling trend!
:yelclap:
 
GET YOUR ARSE TO WORK!!
if you and your wife aint at the river with me and my wife then you better be worken!!:D
 
Rawbrown said:
I had question, Dave, Paul, Goat and capt. about what size fuel cell to run. 10-12 is doeable. I'm looking at the 12Gallon cell from Jaz products. measures 17.5L x 16 W x 10 H. the next step down from Jaz is 8 gallons. There are probably others out there, but Jaz makes em clear if you want. Also, sink the fuel cell down in between the frame rails, that will clear the diff. That should keep the COG lower. But leave the roof as it is. I should be right behind you as soon as I can get some $$$ for the tubing.

Mine is a 12 gal, and I don't think I'd go smaller than that with the 4.0L. I can run 2 days usually, but if we run a lot in one day out at JV I can use most of it. Last trip I didn't top it off the first day, probably had 10-11 gal, and we ran Sunbonnet, and ran around some looking for guys, and ran a few other trails, and I was sucking fumes at the end of the day. You could get away with 10, but many times you'd want to top it off every day.
 
Just some updates...
100_4077.jpg

100_4075.jpg


Looking forward to finishing up the cage soon...then on to the rest of the project...

Rick
 
i like the revolutionary sheet metal skined buggy design!! :roflmao:




just like the long travel sand cars!:moon:
 
Some more....
100_4079.jpg

The more I look at it, I'm thinking that that curved spanner bar should be staight....it won't be
getting any other cross bracing back there....hmmmmm
Close up.....
100_4078.jpg
 
you should cut a hole in the rear deck area and sink the fuel tank on top of the frame rails instead of under.
 
oh and nice paddle tire... that would be cool.
 
and one more thing...
you need to remeber to do something about your rear leafs or the jeep will ride stiff in back. pull out the middle leaf or second leaf so you get your flex back.
 
I agree with the raising the tank.

But I dont know about removing a leaf. Maybe if they were higher rate and stuff to start. But my FT jeepspeed rated leaf packs are great as they were when it was full bodied. I think that with the tube and a full size spare and a decent selection of trail tools and small spare parts, it more then makes up for the rear doors and hatch and glass. But I could be wrong.
 
before the socalXJ Jambo back in march, I had proceeded to remove the hatch, doors some sheet metal and a few excess things. I went to the scales with a full tank of gas and the spare mounted. 3500# is what my jeep weighted. It was stiff in the back and didn't flex very well. after removing one select leaf from each pack, I got my flex back and the ride as well. being that I don't plan on carrying a spare when I step up to 37"s, my goal is to keep my jeep under 3500#'s. I know Ricks jeep pretty well since his build is very similar to mine. He will for sure have to pull a leaf out of each pack.
 
Rawbrown said:
before the socalXJ Jambo back in march, I had proceeded to remove the hatch, doors some sheet metal and a few excess things. I went to the scales with a full tank of gas and the spare mounted. 3500# is what my jeep weighted. It was stiff in the back and didn't flex very well. after removing one select leaf from each pack, I got my flex back and the ride as well. being that I don't plan on carrying a spare when I step up to 37"s, my goal is to keep my jeep under 3500#'s. I know Ricks jeep pretty well since his build is very similar to mine. He will for sure have to pull a leaf out of each pack.

About the fuel tank....if I were to go to a fuel cell, well, not a fuel cell but something like Taylor is running, wouldn't it be better to leave it above the sheet metal for a bit of proteciton?
If I drop it, there will need to be something under it. I was hoping to eliminate the heavy ass gas tank skid I have now. Maybe just an additional sheet of plastic for some added protection?

:dunno:

BTW I just know it will be fun out in the sand this winter!!

:D

Rick
 
ROBERTK said:
I agree with the raising the tank.

But I dont know about removing a leaf. Maybe if they were higher rate and stuff to start. But my FT jeepspeed rated leaf packs are great as they were when it was full bodied. I think that with the tube and a full size spare and a decent selection of trail tools and small spare parts, it more then makes up for the rear doors and hatch and glass. But I could be wrong.

I have not been realy happy with the pack as it sits. I'll probably not like it much at all when I'm done with the chop job.
It might be time for a National Spring pack...

Rick
 
run the fuel cell, just behind and above the rear axle. Sink it between the frame rails and run some tube under it. should be fine. then leave the spare on the trailer and pack a few extra plugs in the kit. when was the last time you used your spare.
 
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