• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

What is the best long arm kit for your money?

I don't like the extreme anti-dive characteristics that the TNT kit has and the ride is a different ride in terms of quality and comfort. Its not a huge difference, and its not bad, its is just DIFFERENT. There's nothing wrong with the TNT kit, it just has inherently high numbers. I agree with the pinion factor but the majority of users will be fine with the change in pinion angle on the FT kit and do not neccessiarly need the constant pinion angle.

What do you mean by anti-dive? As in hard braking anti-dive? Also, what do you mean by "high numbers?"

I'm just trying to make sense of what your saying is all. :dunce:
 
Hard to put it into words, maybe Vetteboy might be able to describe it better, but when crawling, the front end has a tendency to seperate, extend,....unload maybe, hard to describe, but instead of driving up an obstacle and the suspension keeping the jeep at one angle and going up and over, when you hit the gas or apply torque, the front end digs down and forces the front end up. Its controlled with limit straps or a suckdown winch, as opposed to a three link or four link that would keep the front end more level and the suspension wouldn't try to force the front end away from it. I'm not good at explaining it so don't listen to me. Maybe pictures would help describe. Here's the numbers I'm talking about.

Ride height:

orig.jpg


Bump:

orig.jpg


Droop:
orig.jpg
 
I'm not hip to the mathematical differences in the way the different styles of arm set-ups work, but I have no complaints about my Clayton's kit. It rides and drives nicely both on the road and the trail, flexes very well, and includes a super stout cross-member which is easy to bolt a skid-plate to. The arms are the "Y" style, so it's a radius set-up, but I haven't noticed any negative factors when climbing steep obstacles. The arms are also very stout and run just below the level of the front driveshaft, offering some level of protection for breakover angle. The cost seems ballpark for a LA kit in the 5-6" range, I paid $2K with shocks. My kit has the RK springs, which seem adequate but there are likely better springs out there.

Keep researching. The kits are comparable in many ways, but some folks have dug deep on the issue and can likely point out the minor details that seperate them.
 
One thing to look at is if you already have a lift, what companies offer just the long arm kit. I could not find Full tractions long arm kit without getting springs.

I had Rusty's LA on my old 2 door and loved it. The front would drop the springs out had I not had limit straps and bump stops. The flex was unreal.

Not rubbing takes a lot. A lot of bump stop and a lot of trimming. I had 33 TSL and would rub when turned and I had bump stops, Fenders cut as much as I could and limit straps(chains).
 
...I could not find Full tractions long arm kit without getting springs...
If you call Full Traction they will sell you kits minus what ever parts you dont want.
 
I agree with 53guy,I have full traction longarm 6 in and i love it, im glad i went with the true 4 link non radius arms.
l_a0cb6da84221a93ef0f66744215c7b2e.jpg

l_07acf12a149f4b0d9c139b25c8e9731a.jpg

Im not fully flexed out on these pics either, but i hope they help.
 
Sorry I meant pics of them flexing. Because I don't want to rub at all. I searched for a good 20 mins last night and got tired. And I didn't see any saying if they have like a 5.5"(brand name) lift and 34" tires. Ill keep looking. Also I know lifts legitimately don't all sit the same height. I have two friends that both have 6.5" long arm kits(different Brands) with 34" tires and one sits higher than the other and thus more clearance.


i love my TnT set up. 1 yr and going strong. no issues as of yet. have hit the front shaft a few times as it is now the lowest hanging part. and not looking forward to changing the tranny fluid (gotta pull the pan). but so far 100% satisfied !
tsf021-1.jpg


Picture055Large.jpg
 
i love my TnT set up. 1 yr and going strong. no issues as of yet. have hit the front shaft a few times as it is now the lowest hanging part. and not looking forward to changing the tranny fluid (gotta pull the pan). but so far 100% satisfied !

Rod when you wanna change your fluid out just do the poor mans flush, pull one of your tranny cooler lines and run the engine in P till the fluid starts to slow down that comes out. Shut off the engine and refill the trans, by the time you do this about 4 times or so the fluid will look clean and be fine. That's what I did with mine and it was a relatively easy way to change out my trans fluid.

-Alex
 
not to hijack the thread, but haven't some users had issues with Radius arm vs. Non-radius arm? Does this factor into your value equation? (BDS, I think, is a non-radius arm kit).

If I would have went with long arms it would have been the BDS kit...

http://www.bds-suspension.com/kits/468H

To me it seemed like their 4-link setup was the best, and I'd heard that they had quality components. I also did a lot of research and decided that the 4-link would have been best for the kind of wheeling I do. (Plus I've seen the "unloading" that people talk about with y-link kits, and wanted nothing to do with it)

If you've already got a lift, you could just buy the belly pan and long arms (sort of like the T&T long arm upgrade).
 
Where is the RE love? Anyone like the RE 5.5" Extreme Duty Long Arm lift? That is what I have been considering for my next XJ.
590.jpg

I agree. I have a 4.5" short arm from them and love it. They are a radius arm setup, yes, but they are an excelllent kit and flex very well
 
Back
Top