New and need help

[Rob Mayercik]

Yes it was a 242 and is now a 231. Picked up a shift bezel for like $20 to help with that issue.

The bezel is just an illustration of the shift pattern, it's the metal bracket underneath that the shifter handle is hooked to that Goose is suggesting could be your issue.

Have a look at the picture in the link he gave, then see what yours looks like under the bezel...

 

[RCP Phx]

In my 95 I went from a 242 to a 241OR and didn't change the gate. On my 2000 I added a 2LO kit and I had to slightly lengthen the slot in the rear of the gate for a good feel.

 

[Musdog]

Does it have the 8.25 rear axle

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Yes the 8.25. Why do you ask?

 

[Musdog]

The bezel is just an illustration of the shift pattern, it's the metal bracket underneath that the shifter handle is hooked to that Goose is suggesting could be your issue.

Have a look at the picture in the link he gave, then see what yours looks like under the bezel...

I am sure there is an issue with the bracket. I got the bezel as I don't want any issues incase someone else drive it.

 

[TheXJDrew]

I'm a big advocate of the factory cooling system on an XJ. I have had a number of XJ's over the years, and have 2 that are on 1 ton axles 40" tires, etc. Both run OEM style cooling systems and have for years (mechanical fan, shroud, factory style radiator, OEM electric fan, OEM temp thermostat). Both of these Jeeps see way more highway use than trail use too. I live in East TN where the temperature and humidity in the summer can get pretty nasty. I can wheel whatever trails I want all day with the A/C on and never have an overheating issue. I've also wheeled in Moab and Sand Hollow in the dead of summer as well with no issues.

Most of the issues I see with XJ's overheating come from people who've had failed/failing parts over the years and try to "upgrade" those parts when in reality, they're only making their situation worse.

I am also a big fan of Detroit lockers. I run them on both Jeeps and they've been incredibly reliable. It's almost every ride, we're stopping and waiting for someone to repair a ARB locker for some reason. Melted air line, faulty wiring, leaking seal in the diff, etc. The Detroit is simple. It works. Has great road manners as well.

 

[Hypoid]

Where in Colorado do you live?

 

[75SV1]

If you do go with a 2 or 3 row radiator, the clutch fan needs to be a MOPAR. It is thinner than the aftermarket ones. There is very little to basically no clearance with an aftermarket one. Yes, I was warned and still found out the hard way.
I do have Bil 5100's on a 4.5 lift and 32's. They are a bit harsh. Really depends on the tires and springs too. If you plan to possibly swap springs to lower latter, then maybe a cheaper option like Doetch-Tech. I have not run D-Ts.
I do use a bar pin eliminator on the upper rear shocks. Mine was that the bolt snapped and rethreading them didn't work. I went with the 'bracket' type from IRO. Really helped when I changed my shocks.

 

[75SV1]

If you do go with a 2 or 3 row radiator, the clutch fan needs to be a MOPAR. It is thinner than the aftermarket ones. There is very little to basically no clearance with an aftermarket one. Yes, I was warned and still found out the hard way.
I do have Bil 5100's on a 4.5 lift and 32's. They are a bit harsh. Really depends on the tires and springs too. If you plan to possibly swap springs to lower latter, then maybe a cheaper option like Doetch-Tech. I have not run D-Ts.
I do use a bar pin eliminator on the upper rear shocks. Mine was that the bolt snapped and rethreading them didn't work. I went with the 'bracket' type from IRO. Really helped when I changed my shocks.
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/bar-pin-eliminator-shock-relocation-brackets-rear.html

 

[Musdog]

I'm a big advocate of the factory cooling system on an XJ. I have had a number of XJ's over the years, and have 2 that are on 1 ton axles 40" tires, etc. Both run OEM style cooling systems and have for years (mechanical fan, shroud, factory style radiator, OEM electric fan, OEM temp thermostat). Both of these Jeeps see way more highway use than trail use too. I live in East TN where the temperature and humidity in the summer can get pretty nasty. I can wheel whatever trails I want all day with the A/C on and never have an overheating issue. I've also wheeled in Moab and Sand Hollow in the dead of summer as well with no issues.

Most of the issues I see with XJ's overheating come from people who've had failed/failing parts over the years and try to "upgrade" those parts when in reality, they're only making their situation worse.

I am also a big fan of Detroit lockers. I run them on both Jeeps and they've been incredibly reliable. It's almost every ride, we're stopping and waiting for someone to repair a ARB locker for some reason. Melted air line, faulty wiring, leaking seal in the diff, etc. The Detroit is simple. It works. Has great road manners as well.

The more I have read on the matter, it seems like people are all in on aftermarket parts or, as you have stated, just stick with OEM parts. The only thing I have really considered is a switch for the e-fan but who knows.

The Detroit locker is probably were I will end up. I have thought about springing for a e-locker but for the sake of time and frustration will probably just do the Detroit locker. However, I will have to really read up on backlashing, which sounds a little complicated. In the end I might just take it to a shop that knows what they are doing to save me from what will surely be a missierable time.

 

[Musdog]

Where in Colorado do you live?

I live up in Routt County.

 

[Musdog]

If you do go with a 2 or 3 row radiator, the clutch fan needs to be a MOPAR. It is thinner than the aftermarket ones. There is very little to basically no clearance with an aftermarket one. Yes, I was warned and still found out the hard way.
I do have Bil 5100's on a 4.5 lift and 32's. They are a bit harsh. Really depends on the tires and springs too. If you plan to possibly swap springs to lower latter, then maybe a cheaper option like Doetch-Tech. I have not run D-Ts.
I do use a bar pin eliminator on the upper rear shocks. Mine was that the bolt snapped and rethreading them didn't work. I went with the 'bracket' type from IRO. Really helped when I changed my shocks.
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/bar-pin-eliminator-shock-relocation-brackets-rear.html

I have considered the bar pin eliminators and the stud to loop adaptors. Again lots of opinions on installing those.

 

[RCP Phx]

I have considered the bar pin eliminators and the stud to loop adaptors. Again lots of opinions on installing those.

There are "cons", I dont like that they rotate the pivot points.

 

[Goose_XJ88]

If you do hard wire your e fan to a switch, make sure you make it an override switch only. That allows it to work like factory when off but if you want to override it always on you can do that. I personally like the k-suspension fan override kit but I know some people have strong feelings about his stuff.

There are "cons", I dont like that they rotate the pivot points.

The stud adapters that allow eye eye front shocks don't change the pivot direction and the only lower eliminator that I've found that doesn't change the pivot direction are the IRO lower bpe.

Edit: just saw you guys were talking about rear uppers. Yes I agree that changing the pivoting direction there is a bad idea.

 

[Evan03]

8.25 is worthy of the detroit, thats why i asked. Dana 35 isnt in my opinion

I despise the 8.25 side adjusters id rather put shims in.

You shouldnt have to pull it again ounce assembled since pinion depth is set already.

Id check backlash before taking it apart then on reassembly match it and run a pattern to verify its not gona turn into a molten chunk of metal a few miles down the rd

Backlash as is should hit in the .006"-.010 range.
Some say tighter is better but more creats more oil cushion between the gear teeth. Idk.
Either way try to match what it was before taking it apart. So its not cutting a new wear pattern in the teeth

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[Evan03]

Make sure its 29spline.
If its not buy 29 spline locker and source axles.


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[Musdog]

If you do hard wire your e fan to a switch, make sure you make it an override switch only. That allows it to work like factory when off but if you want to override it always on you can do that. I personally like the k-suspension fan override kit but I know some people have strong feelings about his stuff.




The stud adapters that allow eye eye front shocks don't change the pivot direction and the only lower eliminator that I've found that doesn't change the pivot direction are the IRO lower bpe.

Edit: just saw you guys were talking about rear uppers. Yes I agree that changing the pivoting direction there is a bad idea.

Check and check. Thanks for the information.

 

[Musdog]

8.25 is worthy of the detroit, thats why i asked. Dana 35 isnt in my opinion

I despise the 8.25 side adjusters id rather put shims in.

You shouldnt have to pull it again ounce assembled since pinion depth is set already.

Id check backlash before taking it apart then on reassembly match it and run a pattern to verify its not gona turn into a molten chunk of metal a few miles down the rd

Backlash as is should hit in the .006"-.010 range.
Some say tighter is better but more creats more oil cushion between the gear teeth. Idk.
Either way try to match what it was before taking it apart. So its not cutting a new wear pattern in the teeth

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Great idea, thanks for the tips.

 

[Musdog]

Make sure its 29spline.
If its not buy 29 spline locker and source axles.


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Is there a way of knowing without taking it apart?

 

[RCP Phx]

If it's a 97 than it's a 29 spline.

 

[RCP Phx]

I see you had a 242 so there's a really good possibility it's a D35. Take a pic!