The Nail Salon

Thanks for the offers for help. Much appreciated.

It will get fixed in time, it just feels like a low blow when things were working so well. :(

I called West Coast Differentials today, and I'm sending the Detroit back for warranty. They'll send it to Eaton who will make the final call. I enclosed the bag of shrapnel with it. Guess it's a waiting game at this point.

Curtis thanks for the offer on the housing. I got a line on one, but I'm still not sure what my plan is at this point. I'll let you know if I need it.
 
Portal Axles FTMFW!!!
 
1/2 off Axles at Pick-n-Pull this weekend TORX!!
 
I haven't touched the Jeep or axle in the last ten days much less look at either of them. Kinda taking a break from it while I wait for Eaton's response on the Detroit.

Today I did stare at the old housing for awhile trying to brainstorm some truss ideas.
P1070895.jpg


Here's what I'm thinking.
Truss1.jpg


I'm leaning toward using 2x3 rectangular tube either .188 or .120. Notching around all the diff webbing is going to be a chore. :rolleyes:

I think I can cut off my LCA Mini Skids cleanly, and be able to reuse them.

I was also going to order up a C gusset kit, but I have a ton of .250" plate laying around so I'll just burn out some tabs to weld on the new C's. Kinda like so...
000_0502.jpg



Last idea I'm stewing on is sleeving the tubes. It seems like it's the new "cool" thing to do, but I'm having a hard time seeing the benefits with a truss. My housing broke, not the tube. Kinda seems like extra weight.
 
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TORX said:
I was also going to order up a C gusset kit, but I have a ton of .250" plate laying around so I'll just burn out some tabs to weld on the new C's. Kinda like so...
000_0502.jpg



Last idea I'm stewing on is sleeving the tubes. It seems like it's the new "cool" thing to do, but I'm having a hard time seeing the benefits with a truss. My housing broke, not the tube. Kinda seems like extra weight.
Click to expand...
I built some like that out of some .188 plate, work great. The kits are nice, but are pricy compared to the plate laying around!

I think that sleeving the tubes with a truss is extra weight. A well built truss is definitely enough. I run a TNT truss because I bought it a long time ago, I like it, but wish that it was tied into the center section.
 
Why not sleeve it while you are there?
You want to do this again?

I sleeved, truss, c gusset mine.

Who cares about weight? If the little bit of weight did make any difference it lowers your center of gravity.
 
Less weight is more better.
 
RedJeep2.0 said:
You want to do this again?
Click to expand...
I've given this question a lot of thought, and I think even if I had sleeved tubes my housing still would have cracked. Like I said before the tubes didn't fail, they're still straight as an arrow. The differential housing was the weak link.

I think a truss that ties the housing to the passenger tube will alleviate that weak spot.

I also only know of one person personally who has had tube issues on a 30, and that was ripping part of the tube off with the UCA mount. My truss will be tied into the UCA mount, so no bubbles no troubles there.

What benefits will I see from sleeving the tubes that the truss doesn't address?

Poly Performance is running their 4th of July sale. $106 shipped for some Synergy tube sleeves (listed at 14lbs). It's tempting, but I'm still not sold.
 
TORX said:
It's tempting, but I'm still not sold.
Click to expand...

After seeing what happened to you I agree, I don't think sleeves would have helped one bit. Also after seeing that I am in the process of designing a front truss that incorporates the cover kinda like the D35 superior truss.
 
Don't sleeve it, then when you build your truss (keeping the pass upper) then lets say you pull a street pirate and jump a drainage ditch and you bend your tube.

Yes the truss helps hold the tube down and not brake the housing, but the sleeves are going to beef up the tube so it won't bend.

You might be right, you might not need the sleeve... Just like you didn't need a truss on this axle.

Maybe you will get lucky and not have to do it again... Maybe you won't.

But a little more work and pretty much everything you can do to the 30 is done?
No no your right... Cut a few corners here and there lets see what happens. :twak:
 
RedJeep2.0 said:
Don't sleeve it, then when you build your truss (keeping the pass upper) then lets say you pull a street pirate and jump a drainage ditch and you bend your tube.

Yes the truss helps hold the tube down and not brake the housing, but the sleeves are going to beef up the tube so it won't bend.

You might be right, you might not need the sleeve... Just like you didn't need a truss on this axle.

Maybe you will get lucky and not have to do it again... Maybe you won't.

But a little more work and pretty much everything you can do to the 30 is done?
No no your right... Cut a few corners here and there lets see what happens. :twak:
Click to expand...

OMG LMAO. !!!1 Dustin do what you want.
 
RedJeep2.0 said:
Don't sleeve it, then when you build your truss (keeping the pass upper) then lets say you pull a street pirate and jump a drainage ditch and you bend your tube.

Yes the truss helps hold the tube down and not brake the housing, but the sleeves are going to beef up the tube so it won't bend.

You might be right, you might not need the sleeve... Just like you didn't need a truss on this axle.

Maybe you will get lucky and not have to do it again... Maybe you won't.

But a little more work and pretty much everything you can do to the 30 is done?
No no your right... Cut a few corners here and there lets see what happens. :twak:
Click to expand...

Wow dude, really? State your opinion but don't be rude or say stuff you shouldn't say. Second, you know that if the truss is welded to the tube, then to the center section or the tube on the other side, you would have to bend the truss TOO if you bend the tube. The truss doesn't just help "hold the tube down (whatever that means)," if it's tied in then they BOTH have to bend.

He's not cutting corners, he's thinking about things and how they work rather then just adding a bunch of pointless weight to the thing. Who cares about weight you say in another post? I do, and so does anybody that understand what a lighter rig does for you.
 
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TORX said:
TORX's Hypothesis:

During Thursday's trail run we were on Lilly Pond trail. On the last section of trail I managed to tag a rock HARD with my front diff. It was one of those situations where I wasn't paying attention, and the rock snuck up on me. My own dumb fault.

At the time the hit almost brought the Jeep to a stop. I was in first gear low range so I wasn't going fast, but we were going down hill so gravity defintely help with the magnitude of the hit. It also rung the front diff like a church bell, a sound I've never heard before come from tagging a rock.

I got out after to take a look and make sure I didn't hit my steering, and all I saw was a little bit of rock rash on my Ruff Stuff diff cover. Props to Ruff Stuff for making a diff cover that will break a housing before their cover.

Over the next two days of wheeling, and then the drive home the crack and damage began to spread. During Saturday's run Eric and I heard some mystery noises coming from the front end. I attributed it to the front Detroit just unloading.

On the drive home at highway speed I heard a low pitch groan coming from the front end. It didn't sound too bad compared to other noises I've heard in the past, so I ran with it. I'm really hoping the crack in the housing didn't mess up the gear back lash. Looking back I was hearing more noise during deceleration. I hope the gears are still salvageable.

Then a few miles from home the front Detroit started popping hard on any sort of turn. I thought I may have spit a u-joint cap, or broke the Detroit. Once I got home I put a jack under the axle and realized I was taking up the slack in the housing before lifting a tire. FML.

I guess it could have been worse. It could have completely cracked in half on the trail, or come apart on the highway.

I had very few issues with my last D30 after five years of trail abuse, so I'm not going to preach trusses are a requirement. In fact I didn't truss this axle because of that. I didn't think I'd have any issues with the housing. Unfortunately, I found a weak link, and proved myself wrong.

Right now, I'm really lacking motivation to fix it. I won't lie yesterday I started at it for awhile and had part out thoughts go through my head. It'll get fixed, but it was such an unexpected break I'm still trying to wrap my head around it.

I'm going to work on getting the axle yarded out today, and stripped down. A 44 isn't an option, nor do I blame the break on it being a "30". The most logical thing to do right now is find a new housing. Cross my fingers the 4.56's and Detroit survived and transfer them over. Then I'll make a truss for the passenger side, that ties in the chunk to the tube. Hell, maybe I'll join the Sleeved D30 Cool Kid's Club too.

I really need to find a new hobby.
Click to expand...

..... i have a empty non disco housing, with a sleeve kit waiting to go in..... and used 4.56 ring/pinion sitting on a powertrax.
 
northwestxj said:
Wow dude, really? State your opinion but don't be rude or say stuff you shouldn't say. Second, you know that if the truss is welded to the tube, then to the center section or the tube on the other side, you would have to bend the truss TOO if you bend the tube. The truss doesn't just help "hold the tube down (whatever that means)," if it's tied in then they BOTH have to bend.

He's not cutting corners, he's thinking about things and how they work rather then just adding a bunch of pointless weight to the thing. Who cares about weight you say in another post? I do, and so does anybody that understand what a lighter rig does for you.
Click to expand...

Calm down there sparky! I don't think his post was meant to be rude, I think you have mis understood what he's posted. I think he has the same problem as me. Think of what your posting then start chicken pecking at a iPhone and things don't always turn out as was intended.
 
northwestxj said:
Wow dude, really? State your opinion but don't be rude or say stuff you shouldn't say. Second, you know that if the truss is welded to the tube, then to the center section or the tube on the other side, you would have to bend the truss TOO if you bend the tube. The truss doesn't just help "hold the tube down (whatever that means)," if it's tied in then they BOTH have to bend.

He's not cutting corners, he's thinking about things and how they work rather then just adding a bunch of pointless weight to the thing. Who cares about weight you say in another post? I do, and so does anybody that understand what a lighter rig does for you.
Click to expand...
Heavier is better.

Don't argue with me, I have a degree in weight watchers..
 
northwestxj said:
Wow dude, really? State your opinion but don't be rude or say stuff you shouldn't say. Second, you know that if the truss is welded to the tube, then to the center section or the tube on the other side, you would have to bend the truss TOO if you bend the tube. The truss doesn't just help "hold the tube down (whatever that means)," if it's tied in then they BOTH have to bend.

He's not cutting corners, he's thinking about things and how they work rather then just adding a bunch of pointless weight to the thing. Who cares about weight you say in another post? I do, and so does anybody that understand what a lighter rig does for you.
Click to expand...


you have never met redjeep2.0 in person have you:paperwork
 
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