XJOFFROAD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Washington State
C-clip what's thatuke:
so you have seen a 8.8 c-clip break?
The Nail Salon
- Thread starter TORX
- Start date
so you have seen a 8.8 c-clip break?
WaXJ_Skier
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellevue, Wa
No, I just don't like the complexity they add to removing a shaft.
I agree. I'll go the Super8.8 route as soon as I get this thing dialed in, and I have some extra cash floating around. Right now though, I can live with them.
My thought is, I shouldn't have to pull a shaft unless I break one. If I break one the covers getting pulled regardless. However, with 33's I don't think I'll have too many issues with the factory 31 spline shafts.
One of the weak points of an 8.8 are the plug welds holding the tubes to the center chunk. It's not unheard of for the tubes to rotate in the housing under a lot of torque. The simple solution to this is welding the axle tubes to the center section. You can see one of the plugs welds here.
There's a lot of different opinions on how this should be done, but I just decided to MIG it. I started by preheating the area. This increases penetration, and brings both materials up to the same temperature.
Cranked the Hobart up, and started burning it home. I welded each tube a quarter at a time, and then flipped it 180 to spread the heat.
Completed.
For the hell of it, I post heated the welds to bring them back up to an average temperature.
Cleaned up.
Then I moved onto the next project. The 8.8 has an ABS sensor on the top of the differential surrounded by some cast ribs to protect it. I could care less about the ABS, so I decided to delete it.
Grabbed a fresh sawzall blade, and cut the cast ribbing away. Then ground it down flush.
Cut out a filler plate out of 1/8".
Burned it home. It's purely for aesthetics, but it's the small details that I enjoy on builds.
At this point I'm done with the 8.8 project until the gears and locker go in. I'm hoping next week I can get those taken care of. Stay tuned.
There's a lot of different opinions on how this should be done, but I just decided to MIG it. I started by preheating the area. This increases penetration, and brings both materials up to the same temperature.
Cranked the Hobart up, and started burning it home. I welded each tube a quarter at a time, and then flipped it 180 to spread the heat.
Completed.
For the hell of it, I post heated the welds to bring them back up to an average temperature.
Cleaned up.
Then I moved onto the next project. The 8.8 has an ABS sensor on the top of the differential surrounded by some cast ribs to protect it. I could care less about the ABS, so I decided to delete it.
Grabbed a fresh sawzall blade, and cut the cast ribbing away. Then ground it down flush.
Cut out a filler plate out of 1/8".
Burned it home. It's purely for aesthetics, but it's the small details that I enjoy on builds.
At this point I'm done with the 8.8 project until the gears and locker go in. I'm hoping next week I can get those taken care of. Stay tuned.
I needed calipers and rotors for the 8.8. I didn't feel like paying for brand new ones, so I took advantage of the 50% off special at Pick-n-pull today.
Found a set of calipers and rotors that looked almost brand new off a 96. Walked out of there for $35, not too shabby.
Also, if anyone in the PDX area is looking for an 8.8 the North Portland Pick-n-pull has something like nine Explorers with disc brakes!
Found a set of calipers and rotors that looked almost brand new off a 96. Walked out of there for $35, not too shabby.
Also, if anyone in the PDX area is looking for an 8.8 the North Portland Pick-n-pull has something like nine Explorers with disc brakes!
crazymoose1990
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beavertown
Looks good Dustin, your a good welder, hopefully my skills will increase as time goes by, My Cammando has pleanty of welding ahead of it.
NW99XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gresham, Or.
Thanks for the heads up on the Pick-n-Pull Torx,
Yea your welds are nice and clean man. Any worry about the post heat cycle making the welds too brittle? I've heard that multiple heat/cooling cycles can change the properties of the weld... might just be paranoia, I'm no pro welder, but figured I'd pose the question.
Oh, any chance you're gonna throw a few coats of paint on that 8.8 now? Be nice to see that thing all fresh and shiny!
Yea your welds are nice and clean man. Any worry about the post heat cycle making the welds too brittle? I've heard that multiple heat/cooling cycles can change the properties of the weld... might just be paranoia, I'm no pro welder, but figured I'd pose the question.
Oh, any chance you're gonna throw a few coats of paint on that 8.8 now? Be nice to see that thing all fresh and shiny!
BoringDave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boring
For what he is doing it should hold up fine, For what their worth the factory plug welds are still there.
I did a little bit of welding on mine and used Esab nicore 55 wire. It's a core wire made for welding cast to mild steel. But I get the stuff for free and can do it at work on lunch. If it were not for that I would have just used plain old er70 hard wire also.
Dave
Honestly, I have no idea about the post heat. I just kinda winged it, and hoped for the best. Good news is that it's metal, and can always be added or taken away. If they crack in time, grind them out and reburn them. I'm not worried though.
The housing will definitely get a good paint treatment after all the brackets get burned on. For the brackets to get burned on I have to mock it up under the vehicle, so it's likely not happening in for awhile. I'll probably stick with the satin black theme. I can't stand gaudy contrasting colors for axles and suspension components.
- Location
- NE Texas
Atleast go satin black. Come on torx, it's a LATE MODEL!!!
WaXJ_Skier
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellevue, Wa
DO a high gloss black on the axle and a Teflon or dark grey on the springs/control arms. It'll look pimp'n
dick.breakey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellevue/Seattle
I think you should go pink.....
I support breast cancer awareness, but I'm not going to be a rolling billboard for it.
Axles and all hard parts will be painted satin black. /paint discussion
More box and sticker updates:
Stopped by Six States today for some Spicer goodness.
Spicer #2-2-1379, is the drive line flange adapter needed for the 8.8 to run a standard 1310 joint. Explorer 31 spline 8.8's use a 1350 u-joint. I could run a conversion u-joint, but I'd rather keep all my drive line joints 1310. The cheaper route would be pulling on of these off a ranger. I opted to just buy new. In the future though I might consider snagging one from the Pick-n-pull for a spare. Also, for reference the drive shaft yoke bolts are 12x1.75x30mm.
Spicer #2-4-8091X, is the u-bolt style D30/D44 yoke. This will go on the front D30 to replace the factory strap style. I probably could have found a used one, or even drilled out the OEM yoke, but I'd rather just have a new one. I ran these on the last Jeep, and never had a drive line issue.
Spicer #5-760X, are replacement joints for the front axles. I had a gift certificate for two free u-joints so I figured why not. I'll check the condition of the ones in there now, and if they're good I'll install these in a spare set of shafts.
Got home to find UPS_guy had stopped by to deliver my Teraflex 2Low. One of my favorite things I did on the last Jeep, and with a front Detroit going in on this build I think it's mandatory.
Since I wasn't going with a traditional "lift kit" for this build, I needed to do something about extended brake lines. Stainless are $$$, and the casing on my old ones cracked after a few years of use. This time I figured OEM rubber line are cheap, readily available, and hold up fine for the entire life of most vehicles. After some research I placed an order on Rock Auto, and for $50 I had all new brake lines.
Chose to go with two passenger side rear Ford Explorer hoses for the 8.8, Dorman #H380528. The drivers side uses a T fitting, and I want to eliminate that with hard line. More to come on this when I plumb the brakes on the 8.8.
98' Dodge Dakota 4wd rear brake line, 22", Dorman #H38636.
97' Chevy 1500 2wd front brake lines, 26", Dorman #H38620 & H38621.
Stopped by Six States today for some Spicer goodness.
Spicer #2-2-1379, is the drive line flange adapter needed for the 8.8 to run a standard 1310 joint. Explorer 31 spline 8.8's use a 1350 u-joint. I could run a conversion u-joint, but I'd rather keep all my drive line joints 1310. The cheaper route would be pulling on of these off a ranger. I opted to just buy new. In the future though I might consider snagging one from the Pick-n-pull for a spare. Also, for reference the drive shaft yoke bolts are 12x1.75x30mm.
Spicer #2-4-8091X, is the u-bolt style D30/D44 yoke. This will go on the front D30 to replace the factory strap style. I probably could have found a used one, or even drilled out the OEM yoke, but I'd rather just have a new one. I ran these on the last Jeep, and never had a drive line issue.
Spicer #5-760X, are replacement joints for the front axles. I had a gift certificate for two free u-joints so I figured why not. I'll check the condition of the ones in there now, and if they're good I'll install these in a spare set of shafts.
Got home to find UPS_guy had stopped by to deliver my Teraflex 2Low. One of my favorite things I did on the last Jeep, and with a front Detroit going in on this build I think it's mandatory.
Since I wasn't going with a traditional "lift kit" for this build, I needed to do something about extended brake lines. Stainless are $$$, and the casing on my old ones cracked after a few years of use. This time I figured OEM rubber line are cheap, readily available, and hold up fine for the entire life of most vehicles. After some research I placed an order on Rock Auto, and for $50 I had all new brake lines.
Chose to go with two passenger side rear Ford Explorer hoses for the 8.8, Dorman #H380528. The drivers side uses a T fitting, and I want to eliminate that with hard line. More to come on this when I plumb the brakes on the 8.8.
98' Dodge Dakota 4wd rear brake line, 22", Dorman #H38636.
97' Chevy 1500 2wd front brake lines, 26", Dorman #H38620 & H38621.
Last edited:
It was nice out today, so I got some painting done. I noticed my quarter guards starting to develop some rust, so I shot them with some primer today.
My OCD kicked in, and I spent a good amount of time flap discing, and air sanding them. I didn't like the edges left from the plasma, and I blended the edges some more.
Still undecided on color matching them (rattle can) or just shooting them in the typical black.
Nail Salon was looking pretty dirty.
So I fixed that.
Other updates-
8.8 is getting the 4.56's and Detroit installed on Monday. I should have that back later in the week. Then I need to plumb new hard line for the brakes.
Only thing left as far as the lift goes, is shocks. Trying to make up my mind on which model and size to go with. This is another thing where I know I'll end up changing them in time. Might go with some 5150's in the front and 5125's in the rear.
Getting closer to actually putting all this junk on there.
My OCD kicked in, and I spent a good amount of time flap discing, and air sanding them. I didn't like the edges left from the plasma, and I blended the edges some more.
Still undecided on color matching them (rattle can) or just shooting them in the typical black.
Nail Salon was looking pretty dirty.
So I fixed that.
Other updates-
8.8 is getting the 4.56's and Detroit installed on Monday. I should have that back later in the week. Then I need to plumb new hard line for the brakes.
Only thing left as far as the lift goes, is shocks. Trying to make up my mind on which model and size to go with. This is another thing where I know I'll end up changing them in time. Might go with some 5150's in the front and 5125's in the rear.
Getting closer to actually putting all this junk on there.
crazymoose1990
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beavertown
How long will Darrel have it?
Gears go in on Wednesday.
- Location
- NE Texas
Work party in the making?
I better be invited this time.. Or I'm taking your gift back, ass.
I better be invited this time.. Or I'm taking your gift back, ass.
We'll see.
Still have a lot to do. If I decide to let people actually turn wrenches on my ride, it likely won't happen till beginning of March-ish.
