BoringDave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boring
Well Al with a Jeep. Oh maybe that show was canceled before you were born?
The Nail Salon
- Thread starter TORX
- Start date
Well Al with a Jeep. Oh maybe that show was canceled before you were born?
BoringDave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boring
Actually Springs have arrived.
See that's good news that needed to be posted! But it didn't really happen because I see no pictures.
Been slackin on updates.
Mainly I've just been adding to my box and sticker collection. I'll toss some pictures up in the next few days of that junk. Springs, shackles, shocks, 2wd beam axle, etc.
Today I was itching to make some progress on this project. I started by installing the bushings on the BDS leaf packs. Pretty simple, I made sure to grease both halves, and then pressed them in.
After breaking multiple center pins on my old Jeep, I now choose to run standard grade 8 bolts instead. Never had an issue after making the switch. The BDS packs are drilled for a 5/16 center pin. I thought about drilling them out to 3/8 or even 7/16, but I figured I'd see how they hold up first.
Use a C-Clamp to take the pressure off the leafs, and not kill yourself removing the center pin.
Side by side.
Install new hardware.
Leaf springs are ready for install. As you can see the BDS packs are a seven leaf pack. The leaves them selves are a bit thinner than most aftermarket packs I've seen.
Mainly I've just been adding to my box and sticker collection. I'll toss some pictures up in the next few days of that junk. Springs, shackles, shocks, 2wd beam axle, etc.
Today I was itching to make some progress on this project. I started by installing the bushings on the BDS leaf packs. Pretty simple, I made sure to grease both halves, and then pressed them in.
After breaking multiple center pins on my old Jeep, I now choose to run standard grade 8 bolts instead. Never had an issue after making the switch. The BDS packs are drilled for a 5/16 center pin. I thought about drilling them out to 3/8 or even 7/16, but I figured I'd see how they hold up first.
Use a C-Clamp to take the pressure off the leafs, and not kill yourself removing the center pin.
Side by side.
Install new hardware.
Leaf springs are ready for install. As you can see the BDS packs are a seven leaf pack. The leaves them selves are a bit thinner than most aftermarket packs I've seen.
Also got my 8.8 back last week. Fresh set of Yukon 4.56's and the Detroit were installed.
With the gears done, I could now start reassembling it. That meant getting the brakes squared away. I gutted the parking brake shoes for the time being. They'll get reinstalled with new shoes later. Not a big deal right now.
Got down to the caliper brackets. I ditched the dust shields by drilling out the mounting rivets. Still need to shoot some paint on them.
Pretty much every bolt I put back on gets the Never Seez treatment.
I got the calipers bolted on, and then did a rough mock up of the pinion angle, leaf perches, and u-bolt plates. I didn't feel like fighting the leaf springs, so I cut a block of wood to take up the thickness of the leaf pack.
I then needed to figure out how I was going to run my hard line, and mount the soft lines from the calipers. Easy way would have been to keep it factory, but I couldn't settle for that. I stared at it for a good amount of time, and came up with the following. 3/16 mounting tabs...
Tacked onto the u-bolt plates. Driver side.
Passenger side.
I'm using two passenger side Explorer lines, so they are opposite from each other in how they mount. I'd prefer them to be symmetrical, but I think I can live with how they are.
Anyone see any problems with mounting them there? My only concern is wheel clearance? I know to get the leafs out I'll have to open the lines, but I don't see that being a big deal. I can count the number of times I had to do that on the old Jeep on one hand.
From there running the hard line should be pretty straight forward. I'll run them around the u-bolt plates, and down the top of the axle tube. At least this way they're out of harms way.
With the gears done, I could now start reassembling it. That meant getting the brakes squared away. I gutted the parking brake shoes for the time being. They'll get reinstalled with new shoes later. Not a big deal right now.
Got down to the caliper brackets. I ditched the dust shields by drilling out the mounting rivets. Still need to shoot some paint on them.
Pretty much every bolt I put back on gets the Never Seez treatment.
I got the calipers bolted on, and then did a rough mock up of the pinion angle, leaf perches, and u-bolt plates. I didn't feel like fighting the leaf springs, so I cut a block of wood to take up the thickness of the leaf pack.
I then needed to figure out how I was going to run my hard line, and mount the soft lines from the calipers. Easy way would have been to keep it factory, but I couldn't settle for that. I stared at it for a good amount of time, and came up with the following. 3/16 mounting tabs...
Tacked onto the u-bolt plates. Driver side.
Passenger side.
I'm using two passenger side Explorer lines, so they are opposite from each other in how they mount. I'd prefer them to be symmetrical, but I think I can live with how they are.
Anyone see any problems with mounting them there? My only concern is wheel clearance? I know to get the leafs out I'll have to open the lines, but I don't see that being a big deal. I can count the number of times I had to do that on the old Jeep on one hand.
From there running the hard line should be pretty straight forward. I'll run them around the u-bolt plates, and down the top of the axle tube. At least this way they're out of harms way.
Aren't you concerned about how high up your hardlines will be above your axle, or will you 90* out of the softline to bring the lines back down? I can also count on one hand how many times I've removed my leaves, but the thought of opening up brake lines to remove them doesn't appeal to me. With all that being said I really liked your old rig, and look forward to seeing this one. completed.
NW99XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gresham, Or.
X2.... Those tabs are a great idea, and the install looks nice and clean. But I'd almost consider a 2-piece tab/bracket that could be removed/adjusted with a couple of bolts, just to make service/replacement of the leafs a little easier. Good progress so far... keep it up man!
So I stewed on this all day today.
Came home with a plan to relocate the lines below the spring perch in a more traditional way. However, after doing some mock up, it was clear over the leaf was the best option. I could build a bracket off the perches, but the hose and lines are going to be hanging down and out pretty low. I can just see myself ripping a soft line from a branch, or pinching a hard line from a rock.
Also, I figure I could always just unbolt the caliper and set them out of the way if I needed to get a spring out. There should be enough play in the hose to do so.
So I stared at the tabs I mocked up last night, and decided to change them a bit. Drivers side got angled in, and burned on.
End result.
Passenger side stayed the same, but I trimmed the tab a bit.
End result.
Next step was routing the hard lines. Rather than guess on length, I used coat hanger as mock up line. I stole this bender from BPB, which helped with the radius's.
Drivers side.
Passenger side.
Used some rope to measure the length of the wire. 14 and 45 inches were my lengths. I'll see what the parts store has to offer, and then use the wire templates to build the hard lines off of.
Came home with a plan to relocate the lines below the spring perch in a more traditional way. However, after doing some mock up, it was clear over the leaf was the best option. I could build a bracket off the perches, but the hose and lines are going to be hanging down and out pretty low. I can just see myself ripping a soft line from a branch, or pinching a hard line from a rock.
Also, I figure I could always just unbolt the caliper and set them out of the way if I needed to get a spring out. There should be enough play in the hose to do so.
So I stared at the tabs I mocked up last night, and decided to change them a bit. Drivers side got angled in, and burned on.
End result.
Passenger side stayed the same, but I trimmed the tab a bit.
End result.
Next step was routing the hard lines. Rather than guess on length, I used coat hanger as mock up line. I stole this bender from BPB, which helped with the radius's.
Drivers side.
Passenger side.
Used some rope to measure the length of the wire. 14 and 45 inches were my lengths. I'll see what the parts store has to offer, and then use the wire templates to build the hard lines off of.
bloodtype_jeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, Or
.... Then I'll start on making a set of bumpers for it. Winch front, and tire carrier rear.[/QUOTE]
Subscribed.
What do you have in mind for the rear tire carrier?
I recently sold my WP rack to fund a rear carrier build. I'm leaning towards something similar to AJ's tanker rear.
Subscribed.
What do you have in mind for the rear tire carrier?
I recently sold my WP rack to fund a rear carrier build. I'm leaning towards something similar to AJ's tanker rear.
BoringDave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boring
Looks real good Dustin. I'm at about the same point in my project other then I have the axle kinda in place under the jeep. (not welded yet)
Hey who did you get your 2'low kit from? Straight from Tera?
Dave
Hey who did you get your 2'low kit from? Straight from Tera?
Dave
Haven't really picked out a design yet. If I can't fit the spare inside (might build a shelf, tire on bottom, tools on top), then I'll run a tire carrier rear bumper. I'm not too thrilled about losing rear visibility and departure angle though.
I'll be trimming the lower rear quarters, and then have some sliders built off the bumper (like my last one). Goal will be keeping it low profile, and low weight.
The rear bumper is far down on the to-do list though.
Sam's Offroad
Best pricing on Teraflex drive train products I've found. I ordered my old 2Low and 4:1 from him last year. He's just a dealer, so the parts them selves ship from Teraflex.
Bronzewyrm
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Independence,or
:idea: get out of my head!!!
and keep :repair: looking good so far. what do you say dustin, use the firedrill run to shakem down???
Bronze.
Ha! I'm up for a Firedrill Run later, but I got other plans for the shake down run.
Back to my box and sticker collection...
Picked up some JKS boomerang shackles to complement the 3" BDS leafs. Typical shackle, not sure what else I can say.
Also, I planned to brace the LCA brackets on the 30. On my old one I just used some 4x4" pieces of steel. They worked fine, but they didn't have the clearance to allow the superflex joint to do it's job. I partially blame them for me burning through bushings. I thought about making some for this axle out of scrap 1/4" and taking bushing tolerances into account, but JKS sells these "Mini Skids" for $20. No brainer...
Lastly, 4.5" BDS coils. They're definitely more tightly wound than most aftermarket coils I've seen. I can't wait to run these.
Did some random painting yesterday. It always feels good to get paint on stuff, it's progress that you can see. I also tore down Moneypit_K5's two wheel drive loaner beam axle. Going to try and get that installed early next week so I can get some goods installed on the 30.
Also, I planned to brace the LCA brackets on the 30. On my old one I just used some 4x4" pieces of steel. They worked fine, but they didn't have the clearance to allow the superflex joint to do it's job. I partially blame them for me burning through bushings. I thought about making some for this axle out of scrap 1/4" and taking bushing tolerances into account, but JKS sells these "Mini Skids" for $20. No brainer...
Damnit TORX, why didn't you buy those LCA skids that I have? Jerk...
Drove the Nail Salon to TORXFest this weekend, which was inevitably a good time.
After unpacking, I had the intentions of yarding out the D30, but I really wasn't too motivated to do that.
So I did some body work instead.
Following this Christ-like write-up I found on Comanche Club, I debadged the Nail Salon today.
comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22152
Note the grey pin stripes, and purple Sport decal.
Gone.
Before.
During. You can see how the eraser wheel literally peels away the decal. It leaves behind some eraser residue, but easily wipes off with some alcohol.
Thank you Goblazers_6 for the loaner tool.
After unpacking, I had the intentions of yarding out the D30, but I really wasn't too motivated to do that.
So I did some body work instead.
Following this Christ-like write-up I found on Comanche Club, I debadged the Nail Salon today.
comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22152
Note the grey pin stripes, and purple Sport decal.
Gone.
Before.
During. You can see how the eraser wheel literally peels away the decal. It leaves behind some eraser residue, but easily wipes off with some alcohol.
Thank you Goblazers_6 for the loaner tool.
Last week I made up some templates of how I wanted my hardline ran. I came up with two lengths of 14 and 45 inches.
I hit up a few of the local parts stores and the closest sizes I could get with the fittings already flared on (I really didn't want to cut and flare) were 40 and 20. In theory I figured I could make them work, and just move the connection point over five inches.
Pre flared lines - $6.
Occasionally I'd make an adjustment to my template, or I'd screw up a bend and have to compensate later on.
Notice anything wrong? Neither did I until I needed the fitting.
I was able to unbend the line, but I never got it back to how straight it was before. 40" was just enough to make the long side line work.
I went to start on the short side line, and discovered I bought the wrong type of flare. I'm assuming this is a bubble flare.
So back to the parts store, and exchanged it for the correct double flare.
Short side started.
A 20" line was just a tad too long. Ideally I should have cut the line, and flared on a fitting at the correct length, but instead I just added an extra bend to take up some length. I'll probably leave it, and if it bugs me I can always deal with it later.
With the hard lines where they needed to be, I had to figure out how to mount the junction block for the soft line. Most axles tubes are tapped for this, or a tab is used. I didn't want to drill a hole in the tube, so I cut a piece of plate to use as a mounting tab. There wasn't really room for a nut, so the plate would need to be tapped. Busted out my handy drill and tap guide to see what size hole to drill for the tap.
Coincidentally, a 3/8-16 tap requires a 5/16 pilot hole.
Tacked on the mounting tab, and test fit everything.
Modified the factory hold down to work at the top of the chunk.
Just need to pick up some new bleeder valves for the calipers, and I can cross the brakes off the 8.8 to do list.
I hit up a few of the local parts stores and the closest sizes I could get with the fittings already flared on (I really didn't want to cut and flare) were 40 and 20. In theory I figured I could make them work, and just move the connection point over five inches.
Pre flared lines - $6.
Occasionally I'd make an adjustment to my template, or I'd screw up a bend and have to compensate later on.
Notice anything wrong? Neither did I until I needed the fitting.
I was able to unbend the line, but I never got it back to how straight it was before. 40" was just enough to make the long side line work.
I went to start on the short side line, and discovered I bought the wrong type of flare. I'm assuming this is a bubble flare.
So back to the parts store, and exchanged it for the correct double flare.
Short side started.
A 20" line was just a tad too long. Ideally I should have cut the line, and flared on a fitting at the correct length, but instead I just added an extra bend to take up some length. I'll probably leave it, and if it bugs me I can always deal with it later.
With the hard lines where they needed to be, I had to figure out how to mount the junction block for the soft line. Most axles tubes are tapped for this, or a tab is used. I didn't want to drill a hole in the tube, so I cut a piece of plate to use as a mounting tab. There wasn't really room for a nut, so the plate would need to be tapped. Busted out my handy drill and tap guide to see what size hole to drill for the tap.
Coincidentally, a 3/8-16 tap requires a 5/16 pilot hole.
Tacked on the mounting tab, and test fit everything.
Modified the factory hold down to work at the top of the chunk.
Just need to pick up some new bleeder valves for the calipers, and I can cross the brakes off the 8.8 to do list.
Next project was making an upper mounting adapter for these.
My old JKS adapters are now on the Quad Trail's MJ. After noticing JKS raised their prices substantially, I decided I could save a few bucks and build a set. Picked up some 7/8-9 bolts for the top. I've seen other companies use smaller bolts, but the 7/8 fits perfectly in the bushing hole. Plus there's no way in hell your shearing these.
Cut some 1/4" plate to 1.5".
I then cut that piece into three separate pieces, top and sides. The top would need to be drilled for the 7/8 bolt. I use the following formula to figure out cutting speed, (CS x 4) / D = RPM. I use 80 as my cutting speed for mild steel. So for example in my case, (80 x 4) / .875 = 366 rpm. I didn't have a 366 setting, so I had to settle for 300.
Got the hole hogged to size, and tacked the bolt on.
Made some side pieces, and used a shock bushing sleeve and some washers to keep it all aligned and spaced during welding.
Cranked up the welder, and burned it home.
Cleaned up.
Should work alright.
Sent them off to paint.
My old JKS adapters are now on the Quad Trail's MJ. After noticing JKS raised their prices substantially, I decided I could save a few bucks and build a set. Picked up some 7/8-9 bolts for the top. I've seen other companies use smaller bolts, but the 7/8 fits perfectly in the bushing hole. Plus there's no way in hell your shearing these.
Cut some 1/4" plate to 1.5".
I then cut that piece into three separate pieces, top and sides. The top would need to be drilled for the 7/8 bolt. I use the following formula to figure out cutting speed, (CS x 4) / D = RPM. I use 80 as my cutting speed for mild steel. So for example in my case, (80 x 4) / .875 = 366 rpm. I didn't have a 366 setting, so I had to settle for 300.
Got the hole hogged to size, and tacked the bolt on.
Made some side pieces, and used a shock bushing sleeve and some washers to keep it all aligned and spaced during welding.
Cranked up the welder, and burned it home.
Cleaned up.
Should work alright.
Sent them off to paint.
Stopped by Parkrose Hardware and bought some magnets. My reason was I wanted to put one or two inside my diff covers. Don't know if they'll actually do anything, but it's a peace of mind.
Mixed up some JB weld, and installed two at the bottom of each diff cover.
I'll be curious how much they collect after the gear break in. Usually after that first 500 miles the oil is pretty flaky.
Mixed up some JB weld, and installed two at the bottom of each diff cover.
I'll be curious how much they collect after the gear break in. Usually after that first 500 miles the oil is pretty flaky.
Next project on the list is converting to two wheel drive. Hopefully will get that done this weekend.
Also, need some opinions on shock mounting. These are the brackets that came with the Ruffstuff kit.
Should I ditch them, and go with a traditional mount where the lower eye is perpendicular to the axle? I could see these working okay for even travel, but with the axle articulating I see the lower bushings binding up. Thoughts, or experiences?
Also, need some opinions on shock mounting. These are the brackets that came with the Ruffstuff kit.
Should I ditch them, and go with a traditional mount where the lower eye is perpendicular to the axle? I could see these working okay for even travel, but with the axle articulating I see the lower bushings binding up. Thoughts, or experiences?
- Location
- NE Texas
beautiful work Torx.
BoringDave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boring
Impressive! Not many people realize the importance of proper tool speed.
