Team NAXJA/Petty Cash Racing stock class KOH XJ build

[cal]

We mounted our coils centered on the tube, and have the sleeve stick forward about 1.25" beyond the inner C. At that, we have to run a safety washer between the sleeve and rod end to clear the coil, but we had intended to do that anyways - so it works out fine. The nut on the back of the sleeve clear the brake caliper by about a quarter inch, and we have just less than that to the drag link rod end at full lock. We moved the frame side trackbar mount forward 2" to make it all line up.

When I do final assembly of the new front end this weekend, I'll try and snap a bunch of photos and do a more detailed writeup.

 

[rockclimber]

1) 2" wide JJ's won't hold up very well to the abuse we're going to put down.

who says you have to use a 2" wide joint on the uppers... just because the factory does doesn't mean you have to :rtm:

2) JJ's won't deflect very well, and we're running 4 link + panhard.

that's a pretty good reason. and I suppose on a race truck you aren't going to go long without replacing the joints.

If this was a 3 link, JJ's or a rod end would make more sense.

so then why not do a 3-link:spin1:

 

[cal]

so then why not do a 3-link:spin1:

This car is going to do more go fast than on the rocks racing, so a 4 link seemed like it was probably a better idea. We already had that in mind when we picked up a Full Traction sponsorship.. so it was a done deal.


I have to say that the Full Traction longarm kit is far nicer than I ever expected it to be. I wish I had been running it for years.

 

[GSequoia]

I recieved care packages from Hesco, Advanced Adapters and Longfield today. Expect some stuff from Brown Dog and RCV tomorrow, and can start buttoning up a few projects.

So right about now the only reason to go to work is to get the packages?


I was tempted to stop by tonight after I dropped Karstic off, but I was afraid you'd make me do work.

 

[IXNAYXJ]

Ah, the joys of being 1100 miles away from the race car. I will be flying down next week though, I suppose it's time I contribute my pound of flesh.

 

[GSequoia]

Ah, the joys of being 1100 miles away from the race car. I will be flying down next week though, I suppose it's time I contribute my pound of flesh.

Try not to bleed on the seats, I used up a lot of curse words installing them (damn outboard rear bolts!).

 

[IXNAYXJ]

Try not to bleed on the seats, I used up a lot of curse words installing them (damn outboard rear bolts!).

It is my sincerest intention not to spill any of my own blood on them purdy seats, no matter the cause.

-M

 

[XJMarty]

nice work, can´t wait to see it completed

 

[John D]

Interesting idea. Is the track bar now 4-5" longer than the drag link?

I know the problems with a shorter track bar because I have one, but do you think a longer track bar will have any issues?

 

[RWKHausSupply]

It does. Mounted single sheer with a 7.5" long 3/4" grade 8 bolt.

I can't say that its entirely our idea. I had considered something like this a few years ago but wasn't really sure if I could make it work.

Blaine @ Black Magic Brakes has done this a few times and urged us to give it a try. I am really happy that we listened to him.

Only concern I see is the butt welded C and supporting all forces from the front end, in any lateral force is being supported by that butt weld and a lower gussett that the weld is still only a 1.5" length.

You have any concerns with it?

 

[GrimmJeeper]

I have to say that the Full Traction longarm kit is far nicer than I ever expected it to be. I wish I had been running it for years.

x2, I was really impressed when I saw this kit in person, it looks really well built and it should be a good ride.

Interesting idea. Is the track bar now 4-5" longer than the drag link?

the track bar and drag link are nearly identical in length and on just about the exact same angle. it should handle really well.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

the track bar and drag link are nearly identical in length and on just about the exact same angle. it should handle really well.

:thumbup:

 

[cal]

Interesting idea. Is the track bar now 4-5" longer than the drag link?

I know the problems with a shorter track bar because I have one, but do you think a longer track bar will have any issues?

The trackbar is 7/8" longer than the draglink, but they are at the same angle and nearly flat. I think its going to be fine.

 

[cal]

Only concern I see is the butt welded C and supporting all forces from the front end, in any lateral force is being supported by that butt weld and a lower gussett that the weld is still only a 1.5" length.

You have any concerns with it?

While you make a valid point, I am completely unconcerned.

Time will tell if I should have been concerned..

 

[dukie564]

Don't forget the tank full of VP racing gas. Stupid compression and its requirements.

Ever consider a propane system?

 

[cal]

Ever consider a propane system?

No. We're working on increasing performance, not hindering it.

 

[Papercut]

Good job guys! Trying get the time off to make it to the race, is it the 4th or 5th?

 

[RWKHausSupply]

No. We're working on increasing performance, not hindering it.

Well Cal, I am sure russ did more to yours then ours, and when I fire mine up its pretty impressive sounding. Then when we put it in gear it doesnt creep one bit, due to the TCS converter we got, but you just tap the pedel and it is INSTANT crackle and move.

We havent gotten the chance to actually drive it yet, since no seats till yesterday (I Think they went in yesterday). But we will find out this sat out at the lake bed how it runs.

Did you guys do any converter work? Or anything different to the trans? How are you shifting the trans?

 

[89sj]

Only concern I see is the butt welded C and supporting all forces from the front end, in any lateral force is being supported by that butt weld and a lower gussett that the weld is still only a 1.5" length.

You have any concerns with it?

Its not technically "butt" welded.
There is a section of tube from the old housing the C's came off of pressed into the new housing tube. Essentially sleeved.

If its gonna break, its not going to be at that weld.


k.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

lets not go and derail this with assumptions. It is butt welded and then a lower gusset welded on, no press work. I know, and its not bad at all. Its how they do every retube unless other wise specificied and $$$ charged.

I just brought it up to see if that was of any concern.