- Location
- Torrance, CA
Did Dave try to remove his axle without a wrench?
-
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Team NAXJA King of the Hammers preperations
- Thread starter Goatman
- Start date
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
We spent the weekend at JV running and testing some more. If it was race day we'd have been in trouble. Dave's front UCA axle mount broke off, thankfully they were coming to a stop when it broke and coasted to stop and didn't damage the new shocks, but broke the driveline. Very good to find that weakness this weekend, we fixed it and wheeled the rest of the weekend and he'll beef it up at home.
I had a starting problem, the fuel pump wouldn't come on, but after hard wiring the pump we determined that most likely it wasn't a pump wiring problem it was most likely power somehow interupted to the ECU. The next time we stopped, the motor wouldn't shut off, even after cutting the battery disconnect switch (which is supposed to cut power to the ECU/coil). We disconnected the hard wire to the pump to kill the motor, which had to be backfeeding the ECU. After that it started up and never did it again the rest of the weekend. I also have a trans problem, it occasionally holds in gear until over 4000 rpm, and then downshifts the same way. We'll have to work on both of those problems. I also need to replace my battery, the expensive Total Power AGM battery is bad and won't hold a full charge, so I need to decide on a new battery.
Garry has the lines on Backdoor down pretty well, and after some more seat time is comfortable in Dave's rig and doing well on the trail. The rig is very capable, so unless they have some real bad luck they should qualify to get into the race.
The shocks are working well, mine are even better after getting them back from ORI and we did more adjusting this weekend. We could probably get them even better, but they're pretty close, and plenty good enough for the race. It's scary how fast we can go through small to medium whoops and rough sections, you wonder how the rig can take much of that abuse. If we drive the whole race at the speed that's possible it's hard to imagine that it will all hold together. Fast suspension cycling and hard hits just don't seem to go together with heavy 40" tires. I think our strategy needs to be somewhat conservative and wisely choose when it's good to use the speed. I'm also going to add more reinforcing to some of the control arm and shock mounts, 100 miles of that type of racing with our massive unsprung weight is going to be brutal on every component.
I need to drop the belley pan and wrap the exhaust under the floor, it got hot enough to melt a tool bag that always sits under the seat and to melt the spray bedliner that's on the floor, and that's only running a fraction of the time we'll be running in the race. We'll do more to deal with the heat.
I don't know what all Dave has left on his list, but here's a partial list of what I need and want to do:
Get new battery
Find trans problem
Check starting/ECU power problem
Get and mount 2nd fire extinguisher
Reinforce front frame control arm mounts, add plate inside floor
Replace drag link rod end and track bar rod end and double sheer both steering rod ends
Rebuild CTM joints
Replace fuel line from pump to hard line, add protection, fix leak by filter, replace filter
Make and install new skins and install new stickers
Wrap exhaust under floor and fuel lines by header
Replace front axle seal....leaking again
Install new wheel studs and new hub bolts
Lock/spool front locker
Fix/replace broken rear air locker switch
Torque every bolt and mark with torque strip
Add rear view mirror for Paul
Change engine oil and filter
Replace driveline u-bolts, get more spares
Install spare rear driveline
Fix/replace front winch cable
See about dipstick sealing
Program frequencies into radios, read manual, learn to operate radio
I had a starting problem, the fuel pump wouldn't come on, but after hard wiring the pump we determined that most likely it wasn't a pump wiring problem it was most likely power somehow interupted to the ECU. The next time we stopped, the motor wouldn't shut off, even after cutting the battery disconnect switch (which is supposed to cut power to the ECU/coil). We disconnected the hard wire to the pump to kill the motor, which had to be backfeeding the ECU. After that it started up and never did it again the rest of the weekend. I also have a trans problem, it occasionally holds in gear until over 4000 rpm, and then downshifts the same way. We'll have to work on both of those problems. I also need to replace my battery, the expensive Total Power AGM battery is bad and won't hold a full charge, so I need to decide on a new battery.
Garry has the lines on Backdoor down pretty well, and after some more seat time is comfortable in Dave's rig and doing well on the trail. The rig is very capable, so unless they have some real bad luck they should qualify to get into the race.
The shocks are working well, mine are even better after getting them back from ORI and we did more adjusting this weekend. We could probably get them even better, but they're pretty close, and plenty good enough for the race. It's scary how fast we can go through small to medium whoops and rough sections, you wonder how the rig can take much of that abuse. If we drive the whole race at the speed that's possible it's hard to imagine that it will all hold together. Fast suspension cycling and hard hits just don't seem to go together with heavy 40" tires. I think our strategy needs to be somewhat conservative and wisely choose when it's good to use the speed. I'm also going to add more reinforcing to some of the control arm and shock mounts, 100 miles of that type of racing with our massive unsprung weight is going to be brutal on every component.
I need to drop the belley pan and wrap the exhaust under the floor, it got hot enough to melt a tool bag that always sits under the seat and to melt the spray bedliner that's on the floor, and that's only running a fraction of the time we'll be running in the race. We'll do more to deal with the heat.
I don't know what all Dave has left on his list, but here's a partial list of what I need and want to do:
Get new battery
Find trans problem
Check starting/ECU power problem
Get and mount 2nd fire extinguisher
Reinforce front frame control arm mounts, add plate inside floor
Replace drag link rod end and track bar rod end and double sheer both steering rod ends
Rebuild CTM joints
Replace fuel line from pump to hard line, add protection, fix leak by filter, replace filter
Make and install new skins and install new stickers
Wrap exhaust under floor and fuel lines by header
Replace front axle seal....leaking again
Install new wheel studs and new hub bolts
Lock/spool front locker
Fix/replace broken rear air locker switch
Torque every bolt and mark with torque strip
Add rear view mirror for Paul
Change engine oil and filter
Replace driveline u-bolts, get more spares
Install spare rear driveline
Fix/replace front winch cable
See about dipstick sealing
Program frequencies into radios, read manual, learn to operate radio
GTOROCKS RACING
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- MEXICO * Norway * USA
Hola Richard,
See you there Amigos,
Sweet XJ!
iratefla
GET READY TO PARTY BONGO STYLE!
PONCE & JOHNNY,
KOH® LCQ TEAM
VIVA MEXICO!
See you there Amigos,
Sweet XJ!
irateflaGET READY TO PARTY BONGO STYLE!
PONCE & JOHNNY,
KOH® LCQ TEAM
VIVA MEXICO!
Last edited:
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
Richard,
What's your plan for the exhaust? Just header wrap tape as much as you can get to?
I've heard the wrap can hold moisture against the exhaust, promoting corrosion. Is this a concern for you?
Is Dave still running a radius arm front?
What's your plan for the exhaust? Just header wrap tape as much as you can get to?
I've heard the wrap can hold moisture against the exhaust, promoting corrosion. Is this a concern for you?
Is Dave still running a radius arm front?
David Taylor
NAXJA Member #570
- Location
- San Marcos, Ca
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
That's why I haven't used it before. But, we only want to use it where the exhaust goes between the belly pan and floor, and really, the rig sits in the garage all the time except when it's in the desert, so moisture probably isn't a concern.
- Location
- San Diego, CA
And Bakersfield isn't known for high humidity, either =)
Los Lobos
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wilsonville, OR
Richard I am having a similar issue with the exhaust melting items through the floor. I wrapped the exhaust and still melt everything on the inside floor. I tried the cookie sheet idea(with wrapped exhaust) and had it deform and still melt items inside. I will try a piece of sheet metal with a 1/4" floor spacing next.
CanMan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake Tapps, WA
It might not cost very much, but maybe have the tubing Jet Hot coated?
Stuff works real well on some of the street cars i've delt with.
www.jet-hot.com
Stuff works real well on some of the street cars i've delt with.
www.jet-hot.com
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Richard do you want this?
I could send it out USPS Priority mail, it should get to you by the weekend.
Yes, would love to have it. I'll need to get some. Cal may be coming up next weekend, could you get it to him if he's coming? Or, I'll give you my address.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
That would be nice, but I'm not going to take it out.........was too much of a PIA to get it in.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
RedHeep
NAXJA #1499
- Location
- Landenberg, PA
Header wrap is still going to let the exhaust pipe radiate heat. I have wrap on my bike exhaust and still burn my leg when it lays against the pipe.
You need a floor insulation with a heat barrier. I'm not sure how big of an area you need to cover, but something like this adhesive based barrier would do the trick. You need to insulate the floor, not wrap the pipe.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo+Tec/750869/10002/-1
There are a bunch of companies out there that sell heat barrier material for race cars, but I won't insult you with the google link
You need a floor insulation with a heat barrier. I'm not sure how big of an area you need to cover, but something like this adhesive based barrier would do the trick. You need to insulate the floor, not wrap the pipe.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo+Tec/750869/10002/-1
There are a bunch of companies out there that sell heat barrier material for race cars, but I won't insult you with the google link
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
When I got this XJ, the floor was covered with that stuff. I thought the guy spent a fortune putting it all on. I spent what seems like days getting that stuff off because I thought it looked lame on the floor of the buggy, it was under carpet on the XJ. Go figure.....
The floor is also covered with spray on bedliner, which at the time was under the heat mat. The heat from the exhaust is burning the bedliner, which would still be under the mat if we put it on top of the floor. I guess that means we need to put it under the floor. That big Rigwerks belly pan is great, but it's a PIA to remove and put back on. Oh well.
When you're on the throttle for very long stretches it's amazing how much heat is developed.......that will be a major problem for many competitors because they've never run that hard for that long before. Lot's of the new builds have the exhaust wraped all the way back, maybe we'll do both, wrap and heat shield.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Richard.
Just get Mike to fab some stacks coming out of the hood.
Problem solved. :laugh3:
Just get Mike to fab some stacks coming out of the hood.
Problem solved. :laugh3:
RedHeep
NAXJA #1499
- Location
- Landenberg, PA
That's exactly what I meant. You need a barrier between the floor and the exhaust.
