Richard it's in the mail you should have it in a day or two
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Team NAXJA King of the Hammers preperations
- Thread starter Goatman
- Start date
Richard it's in the mail you should have it in a day or two
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Very cool. Thanks.
tcm glx
NAXJA Member #1033
- Location
- Riverside California
You got some other stuff in the mail heading your way too!! :gee:
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Los Lobos
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wilsonville, OR
The reflective stuff didn't do squat for me either. It is now melted to the bottom of a milk crate I used for tools. I really think the best answer would be a piece of sheet metal(heat shield) with an air space between the floor and exhaust. I'm just trying to save you some time and effort since I just tried everything else you're thinking of. I have the exhaust wrapped stem to stern minus muffler and cat.
It does warm soup and sausage nicely!
It does warm soup and sausage nicely!
- Location
- Redstone Canyon, Nor CO.
While the jet-hot coatings are nice and do work, they are $$ and you are out of time.
Heat tape works, as noted with a risk of retaining moisture in humid climates
Seperate aluminum or sheet metal shields are likely your best option, and likely cheapest too.
The heatshield available from places like Summit does work, but can be spendy. I have to run some on the bodywork of the sportsracer, where the exhaust exits, and the gold leaf foil which works best is over $50 for a 2 x 2 ft sq. The adhesive backed aluminum sheet is a little cheaper, but a real PITA to install and in a desert enviroment will deteriorate rather quickly.
will throw all my heat shield stuff in the "to go to KOH" pile
Heat tape works, as noted with a risk of retaining moisture in humid climates
Seperate aluminum or sheet metal shields are likely your best option, and likely cheapest too.
The heatshield available from places like Summit does work, but can be spendy. I have to run some on the bodywork of the sportsracer, where the exhaust exits, and the gold leaf foil which works best is over $50 for a 2 x 2 ft sq. The adhesive backed aluminum sheet is a little cheaper, but a real PITA to install and in a desert enviroment will deteriorate rather quickly.
will throw all my heat shield stuff in the "to go to KOH" pile
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I'll swing by target and pick up a couple of Airbake cookie sheets before I come up Friday Richard.
We can screw those to the floor over the exhaust, you'll be surprised how well they work.
We can screw those to the floor over the exhaust, you'll be surprised how well they work.
- Location
- Redstone Canyon, Nor CO.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Thats what Richard keeps me around for; cheap redneck fixes, and to drink all of his beer.
IXNAYXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wherever the next race is.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Porch Puppy had a good idea if I can get it in there. Cut a larger size tubing in half, weld a spacer like a length of angle iron to it, insert it along the length of exhaust pipe under the floor and then hose clamp the ends to the exhaust. That should work if I can get it in there without dropping the belly pan, which I really don't want to do. I have to get under there and get a good look at it.
Cal, can the cookie sheet stuff get attached under the floor, or will it need to go on top? We should be able to bolt or screw through the floor on the ends and be able to get to it on the bottom.
Cal, can the cookie sheet stuff get attached under the floor, or will it need to go on top? We should be able to bolt or screw through the floor on the ends and be able to get to it on the bottom.
I'm not Cal, but the cookie sheet (or any sheet metal as a shield) should go between the exhaust and the floor, and it should be spaced off of the floor as much as is practical. Insulation (fiberglass, etc.) is optional and can be used as well. Stack it like this:
(exhaust)(air gap)(cookie sheet)(air gap)(insulation)(floor)
IXNAYXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wherever the next race is.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Repaired a broken air locker switch, fixed the console so it won't break again (hopefully), drilled out the holes in the tire rack so Stephan's nice Beard strap will work on the tire, ordered a new battery (and figured out why the other one went bad), got my CTM rebuild kits, and found a bad drivers side upper ball jount. The ball joint likely explains the DW I got a couple times last weekend while going through choppy turns. Also got in 200 3/8" x 1.25" Torx head bolts for the beadlocks, which should help to keep the tires from getting cut and gouged.
So, add replace upper ball joints and replace all beadlock bolts to the list.
Also got the header wrap and the HID's, thanks Stephan and Tony.
So, add replace upper ball joints and replace all beadlock bolts to the list.
Also got the header wrap and the HID's, thanks Stephan and Tony.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I used sheet metal screws with 2 washers, and attached them between the floor and exhaust with about 3/16" spacing. Just ran the screws thru the floor, and cut the extra threads off from the top with my dremel.
ruggedjeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sherman Oaks
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Can't say I blame you.
