...sorry...another build thread...

XJ Updates:

good news! my ball joints are totally shot! I am so happy right now! all of them are totally fubar. That explains the wandering! I am going to grab new ball joints tomorrow and should be good to go!

I was in denial and refused to even check them since they are synergy and they are pretty new , maybe a year old? But both lowers are toast, like bad, and at least one upper, so that explains most of it. the front and rear bearings seem incredibly good .

WJ updates:
removed the drop pitman arm
cut off a welded on drop trackbar mount
drilled out stock mount for 5/8" bolt and the 3/4" heims
put a stock pitman arm back on
drives so much better.
DW seems to be gone
the major issue here was the drop trackbar mount dropped like 2" further than the drop pitman, wicked bump steer and probably causing some of the DW as well


I also have all the goodies to upgrade to the akebono calipers/rotors/pads and brand new timken unit bearings to go on, as well as all new TREs. Also have 4 brand new 5100s coming in the mail too. And some v249 tcase fluid coming too.

I also changed both diffs with royal purple 75-140 synthetic and changed both tranny filters and did 2.5 qts royal purple and 4 quarts ATF+4. I also added a drain plug to the tranny pan.

this thing drives so well, and more parts to come.
 
Arent the synergy ball joints rebuildable?

I don't think so.
....And they are discontinued as well. They were probably shot this time last year after reno since I could not drive straight after reno...heading to and from fordyce was scary as hell too. And every trip in between. I am hoping this was the only problem and that fresh Ball joints fix it the thing.

this is probably the reason I kept blowing through trackbar heims every couple runs, the trackbar was working extra heard to keep the axle centered.

I threw the driver side BJs on late last night after a long weekend. Only pic I took as I was putting it back together. The bearings and spindles looked amazing.

 
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Sooo....
the ball joints drop in and fall out of the passenger side steering knuckle. I would imagine that is a bad idea to drive on. the driver side was not a whole lot better. My gut tells me the synergy joints wallowed out the whole some how, anyone ever have this happen to them?

Looks like ill be ordering a new pass side knuckle and maybe a driver side. cant afford high steer arms right now but might just end up doing it all at once.
 
If you go from a knurled ball joint to a smooth one that can happen.

What did you install?
 
You prolly want Moog problem solvers. They come a little oversized and knurled.
 
You prolly want Moog problem solvers. They come a little oversized and knurled.

Ahh I see.

I went from knurled to smooth. Thats exactly what happened. I am looking at Reid knuckles right now.

I will start looking at moog problem solvers.

Edit :
found the lowers, I need the uppers:
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K8195T-Ball-Joint/dp/B000C55ZT4
ordered the lowers on amazon prime for 25$ each.

Moog K8195T

Edit :
found the uppers too.
I think ill give these a shot.
Ill save the spicers for now.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k8194t

Moog
K8194T
 
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i'm sure it doesnt matter at this point, but know that going problem solver is a 1 way street (as it will open the bore up a little bit).

they are pretty decent though.
 
Yeah i aready figured ill be buying reid knuckles for the next iteration i just need something to get this thing moving now. Im cutting it way too close to reno right now
Now
 
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the only good thing that has come from this is that I can now do dana 44 ball joints extremely fast now. which sucks.


So many ball joints. pulled the knuckles back off. removed the spicers. installed the Moogs. also for good measure added some green loctite to them since I think the synergy joints opened up the holes more than desired.







also did a ton of work to the WJ- CV shafts, unit bearings, all TREs, upgraded to centric premium akebono calipers, wagner severe duty pads, and centric premium rotors, and bilstein 5100s



 
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Cv shafts on the wj. Full time 4wd. Im working on the wj a ton right now as well as the xj.
 
And is anything better with either jeep after all that? I hope so

Havent driven it yet. finished it late last night and wanted to give time for the green lactate to dry. the moogs fit tight instead of sliding in. I think the driver side knuckle was fine for the most part, it was the pass side that was not ideal. I still plan to order reid kncukles but this will buy me at least some time before I have to do that.
 
front is tight as hell.
thought I was done.
test drove it. horrible.
had to pull over on the freeway.
all over the road.
I am so confused .

the rear suspension seems very soft, the front is crazy stiff.

I am going to drop the rear axle and check the leaves and what not.

I am also planning on running over to ruffstuff tomorrow and grabbing new heims for the other 2 control arms just to rule that out at this point.




it seems like toe in is back at 1/2" in. Ill get it back out to around 1/8".




I am actually kind of stressed out at this point and don't think I will make reno if this keeps up. I am not stoked right now.

I am also thinking about swapping the steering box out and trying out my old J10 box to see if the PSC is too much for it maybe?


Im going to check out the rear shocks and leaves and center pins tomorrow to see whats going on in the rear.
 
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Usually measure inside of tire. Using the center of the lugs as we speak to check it again.
 
I find both if those methods to be very inaccurate while checking toe. I prefer to take the wheels off and tightly tape a meter stick to each hub surface so they are perfectly level. Then measure from meter stick or other flat straight object to meter stick on the front side and back side and compare. Just make sure that you take your measurement on the meter stick from the point where the front of your tire would be - so 18.5" forward from the center of the hub, and 18.5" back. Make sense? I find this to be much more accurate.
 
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