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Shocks. Good quality + Long travel?

I can get all 3.

Good to know. I will shoot you a PM once I double check my measurements at full flex and talk to a Bilstein tech about valving.

Leaning towards

33-186542 15.11-24.35 for Rears
and
33-230368 16.3-26.4 for Fronts
or
33-230375 17.1=28.3
33-230351 16.1_26.4

Going to be doing more research into retaining coils vs letting them unseat. Very admit arguments on both sides of the debate. If anyone would like to share their experience or shock suggestions please do so. Also feel free to call me a newbie/noobie and tell me how stupid you think I am :)
 
Stupid n00b!

unseating the coil doesnt do much good, as no sprung weight is being transferred to the tire. If you were running a 14b or mog axles or something else insanely heavy, your unsprung weight might be enough to get you some traction on that tire.

Just my understanding, as it was explained to me, in the conditions i run.
YMMV
 
Been here, done that regarding wanting to stay under $100 for shocks. Went with Bilstein 5150s; 12" travel front and rear. On road handling good, off road crawling good, any amount of speed not good. Just not enough valving to control. 5150s are a nice shock, but they are a significant compromise when you really start getting into it. I've since swapped out for 7100s. 12" short bodies in front, and using all 12"; 10" short bodies in rear, since moving the lower mounts to the middle of the axle. Vastly improved because of stiffer valving; next step is to start tuning, and go even stiffer on the compression dampening, something that can't be done with 5150s.

I know your budget is $100, but consider strongly a rebuildable and a shock that can have valving adjusted if you're really serious about getting the most out of your suspension. You can do it for $200 a shock. IF not, then go with the cheapest you can find that fits your measurements and call it a day.

David Bricker / SYR
 
David, I am looking for info on the 5150s and the closest thing I can find are the 5160s listed here: http://www.bilsteinus.com/uploads/tx_templavoila/5160flyer_6.23.11.pdf Are those similar to what you used to run? If so, can you tell me what valving you were at before and what valving you are at now with the 7100s?

Also, are you saying that if I can't/wont afford the 7100s I should just skip the 5125s and run "White Bodies" for now?

And one last clarification if I may. You said you were unhappy with the 5150s with "any amount of speed". On road? Offroad? Can you elaborate a little on that please?

Thank you by the way. I appreciate you sharing your experience with me :)
 
David, I am looking for info on the 5150s and the closest thing I can find are the 5160s listed here: http://www.bilsteinus.com/uploads/tx_templavoila/5160flyer_6.23.11.pdf Are those similar to what you used to run? If so, can you tell me what valving you were at before and what valving you are at now with the 7100s?

Also, are you saying that if I can't/wont afford the 7100s I should just skip the 5125s and run "White Bodies" for now?

And one last clarification if I may. You said you were unhappy with the 5150s with "any amount of speed". On road? Offroad? Can you elaborate a little on that please?

Thank you by the way. I appreciate you sharing your experience with me :)

The 5150s I was running were 255/70 valving. 12" travel. 17.78" compressed, 29.7" extended. There were certainly a very nice shock for the price, but didn't meet all of my needs. As with many people, I built Gomer up a bit at a time, and what I thought would be sufficient, ended up, over time, not being enough.

The 5150s have been discontinued, and the 5160s have replaced them. The advantage to the 5160s is that they are rebuildable, and theoretically revalvable. The disadvantage is that the 5160s are nearly as expensive as the 7100s.

I wasn't necessarily overrunning the capabilities of the 5150s; I just needed more dampening based on my environment. IF you can get 5150s at a good price (hi Johnny), they may work extremely well for you. It all depends on what you are trying to do with your vehicle.

I am currently running 400/100 valving in the front and 360/80 in the rear with my 7100s. In discussing my valving with a few folks that know their stuff, it's likely I would go more towards a 350/250 valving, if I choose to revalve them. Remember also that each rig is different. Gomer is a very heavy pig, and in the whoops it tends to pitch in significantly. On road handling is fine, as well as crawling.

Honestly, I'd save up for 7100s. Best balance of price and performance, plus the capability of rebuildability and revalving. So, yeah, wait until you have the $$ for 7100s; run junk until you can and just suck it up.

What I meant by "any amount of speed", I should have been more clear. That should have read any amount of speed in the desert, specifically Johnson Valley, in the whoops. I can do standard dirt roads at any speed I care to; it's the whoops that trip me up. Realize thought, that I went from 10 mph in the whoops with 5150s to 25mph with the 7100s. But, when you have a reference point of a KOH rig doing those same whoops at 60mph, you want a little but more.

David Bricker / SYR
 
Could've sworn I posted this, but apparently not:

The 5165's are "converted" 5160's so they can be rebuilt, revalved, recharged, etc. I have personally revalved them for my father's old hunting rig (with lots of help from Bilstein - they shipped me all kinds of shims for free to help tune them to his liking).

They are basically 7100's but with two key differences:

1) 5165's have digressive valve stacks, whereas 7100's are linear.
2) 5165's have rubber bushings, whereas the 7100's have spherical metal bushings (more ideal for motorsport, more maintenance for passenger vehicles).

The 5165's can be converted to linear valve stacks if that's what your application calls for. Just call Bilstein. Their US support is fantastic and has always been helpful for me.
 
5165's also have smaller shims, smaller fittings and hoses, smaller reservoirs and aren't available in a shortbody shock like a 7100.

They are basically the same thing if 'the same thing' means getting 30 to 50 % less shock in every way.

What Kristian is looking for is a 7100 shortbody shock, 10" travel. 8" shock body with a 10" shaft, 16" compresed and 26" extended.

$188 each. Over what you wanted to spend, but its what you have to spend to get what you want. Trust me on this, if you don't do it now, you'll find yourself spending it in 6-18 months anyways to re-do it.

http://www.eshocks.com/bil_ORvh.asp?Series_Index=Q3&Length_Index=Q7&Manf=All&SubChar=Q
 
I usually like to disagree with cal. It generally makes for a good time. But I can't on this one.

My vote would have been for fox 2.0s, but the 7100 SBs are easier to package still a better shock.
 
I usually like to disagree with cal. It generally makes for a good time. But I can't on this one.

My vote would have been for fox 2.0s, but the 7100 SBs are easier to package still a better shock.


Its funny. I saw on my phone that you responded, but I waited until I had my morning coffee to click on it and see what we would argue about today...
 
$188 each. Over what you wanted to spend, but its what you have to spend to get what you want. Trust me on this, if you don't do it now, you'll find yourself spending it in 6-18 months anyways to re-do it.

This is the best advice in this entire thread!!!! Been there done that
 
Way back in the dark ages when cal had "the black jeep" I went for a go fast ride
after he put his 7100's on. OMG, was the first time I got a clue on what a difference
a decent shock absorber makes.

Most of us operate on tight budgets and often have to make tough decisions when it
comes down to dropping cash into our rigs, but this is a no brainer.
Be patient, save your bucks, eat off the $.99 menu for a while until you can afford to put good shocks on. otherwise you'll regret it.
 
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