retubing an axle

[Vanimal]

i had an idea, i can make a plate and bend all 4 sides down to make sort of a shallow box, and weld that in the same fashion that i would using angle iron. then the top would be double the thickness and i still have a flat area to bolt the cross brace to. since the shock tower is all nominal dimensions, i'm pretty sure my buddy has a die the proper length to bend in between the other two sides of the box for his brake press.

 

[sdspearo]

If you laid weld on both inside and outside corner of the top plate, I think you're fine as-is. However a simple "C" plate as shown would probably give you enough weld under shear to give enough safety margin/piece of mind. You can probably fab this piece yourself so you wouldn't have to get a press brake involved.

 

[Vanimal]

Thanks Art, i think that will really add some integrity to that top plate.

 

[souske]

It will fold like a taco!

 

[Vanimal]

looks like i gotta do something with the steering a little sooner, i already tacoed my wj tie rod, first time out. explains my sudden death wobble last week. drag link is a little tweaked too.
i was hoping for an off the shelf TRE option, but that doesnt look like it'll happen as i dont see anything OEM from my interweb searches.
i assume i have to flip both the tie rod and drag link?

 

[rockclimber]

just go with a ruffstuff steering kit and never think about it again.

Drag link: GM-1 ton TRE (ES2027l) for the pitman arm/rod end on the other end

Tie Rod: rod end on both ends

 

[cracker]

Drag link: GM-1 ton TRE (ES2027l) for the pitman arm/rod end on the other end

Tie Rod: rod end on both ends

I endorse this message

 

[Vanimal]

Thanks, just to be clear, ES2027l at the pitman arm, EX23434L for the left tie rod end, and EX23434R for the right tie rod end and right drag link end? seems to be the info i found.

 

[rockclimber]

read what cracker edited my post to...thats the best setup.

ES2027l for the pitman arm, rod ends everywhere else.

the 2027 is a high angle TRE and will allow enough travel at the pitman arm
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREDRAG.html

I would run a 7/8"x3/4" rod end at the knuckle side of the DL with 3/4" to 5/8" safety misalignment spacers
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/78x34RE.html
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34TO58SAFE.html

and for the tie-rod I would use 3/4"x5/8" rod ends with 5/8" safety washers (no misalginment spacers (one RH on LH)
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/3458RE.html

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...e=ruffstuff&Product_Code=WWASH&Category_Code=

throw in some tubing adapters
es2027: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/7818TA.html
7/8" rod end: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/7814TA.html
3/4" rod endRH: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34TARH.html
3/4" rod endLH: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34TALH.html

and some 1.5"x.250 DOM and you have steering that not even you can screw up :wave:

 

[MoparManiac]

Just make sure you can clear your diff cover with the tie rod at full lock.

Depends on how far out your diff cover is.

You may need offset TREs from Ruffstuff.

 

[cracker]

 

[rockclimber]

this...

the only difference is that he has WJ, so instead of inverted T with hi-steer arms, it will be crossover.

same components.

 

[cracker]

a better pic...

 

[GSequoia]

Your license plate is dirty.

 

[Vanimal]

ahhh ok rod ends as in heims.
i just took a look and i dont think i can clear the diff cover. it might just barely clear it since the cover is stock now, but i was hoping to change that when my 500 mile gear oil change happens shortly.
i guess the question is am i better off doing a couple slight bends in the tie rod and using heims or using the offset TRE's and a straight tie rod?

 

[MoparManiac]

Personally I'd run the offset TREs.

 

[Vanimal]

throw in some tubing adapters
es2027: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/7818TA.html
7/8" rod end: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/7814TA.html
3/4" rod endRH: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34TARH.html
3/4" rod endLH: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34TALH.html

and some 1.5"x.250 DOM and you have steering that not even you can screw up :wave:

i had planned on 1.25x.3125 wall so i could directly thread it. bad idea?


and what are you trying to say?

 

[cracker]

ahhh ok rod ends as in heims.
i just took a look and i dont think i can clear the diff cover. it might just barely clear it since the cover is stock now, but i was hoping to change that when my 500 mile gear oil change happens shortly.
i guess the question is am i better off doing a couple slight bends in the tie rod and using heims or using the offset TRE's and a straight tie rod?

Hmm....I didn't look at your set up.

I am not fond of this set up without highsteer. The angles start getting pretty steep for the trackbar/draglink. It works but...not perfect.

Should you had used normal D44 ends, there are chevy knuckles that you can bolt high steer arms to and get the angles more reasonable plus it would miss the dif cover.

 

[Vanimal]

Hmm....I didn't look at your set up.

I am not fond of this set up without highsteer. The angles start getting pretty steep for the trackbar/draglink. It works but...not perfect.

Should you had used normal D44 ends, there are chevy knuckles that you can bolt high steer arms to and get the angles more reasonable plus it would miss the dif cover.

yea there are a few obsticals with this setup. i'll see if i can get some better pics after lunch.
i'm getting close to tie rod/track bar contact as well when the driver's side is stuffed, might pose an issue with OTK if turned to lock.


keep in mind i'm at 4.5"-5" of lift with 6" of shock uptravel. all the links will get pretty close with OTK at full driver's side stuff. i definitely dont want to stay UTK though.

 

[rockclimber]

i had planned on 1.25x.3125 wall so i could directly thread it. bad idea?


and what are you trying to say?

if you have the ability to do that, go for it.

however, be aware that if you use mild steel, you run the risk of stripping the threads in the tube. not saying that its going to happen, but the inserts are hardened to help prevent that.

as far as rod-ends vs TREs, you should always run a TRE at the pitman arm unless you run a double shear arm like the genright peice. a TRE for the drag-link at the knuckle won't hurt, as long as you aren't over traveling it, they are great.

I would rather see rod ends for the tie-rod with a few bends in the tie-rod to clear the dif.

seems to be working well for these guys

also, when it comes time to do assist, with a rod end on the tie-rod, you can setup the ram to bolt to the same place and have direct steering input on the knuckle instead of on a tie-rod where it will misalign the joints before it moves the tire.