Project 2000 XJ (Daily Driver)

[GreenMachine1]

The injectors came in yesterday. I went with some used Chrysler 007 injectors from the 3.3L Dodge/Chrysler mini-vans. They are newer 4-port (lower mileage) injectors that replaced the 784’s after 2001. They flow the same fuel per minute as the stock Cherokee injectors. I paid $70 dollars for cleaned reverse flushed injectors. They have been electronically tested two ways and have new o-rings and new micro-filters. I’m hoping that the better atomization will increase power and fuel efficiency.

Where'd you get the injectors if you don't mind me asking??

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Damn, that's a lot to digest.

Thanks for the details and pics!!!

No problem! I'm hoping the details and pics will help others.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Where'd you get the injectors if you don't mind me asking??

No, I don't mind at all. His name is [Removed by request of OP] and he goes by "Programbo" on the Jeep Cherokee Forum. You can email him at [email protected].

 

[Redsnake]

No, I don't mind at all. His name is [Removed by request of OP] and he goes by "Programbo" on the Jeep Cherokee Forum. You can email him at [email protected].

I got my 784 injectors f/the same person just a couple of weeks back. Wonder why he didn't mention these 'green' injectors? My 784's seem to work well so no complaints f/me.

BTW, can you give me some details on your Header install... price, where you got them, did you install the pre-cats you mentioned? I'm going to have to replace my pre-cats on my '01 XJ and figured I'd change out the headers while I'm at it. Oh, and did you have any trouble w/that stubborn bolt on the #3 cylinder that's a common troublesome one??

REALLY appreciate you taking the time to post your pics and experiences, etc... very well done!

 

[USMCGunrock]

What "green" injectors? The new ones he got? if it's the same one i'm thinking about is because the new injectors that he got is 4 ported but does not deliver as much fuel as the 784's. 784's deliver a little more fuel = a bit more power but minor mpg increase. The "newer" ones deliver the same amount as the stock injectors.

The borla headers I got I purchased for $150 used from a wrangler guy a week before I purchased my truck..lol

If you are going to replace the precats, go with the Catco replacement cuz from what I have seen their bends are actually better compared to others out there which looks pinched. I didn't replace my precats because they were still in good shape. no blockage or buildups.

On the headers, the problem bolt was the one right behind the 3rd tube from the back as seen on this pic:

I think I spent more than half of the time on that stinkin bolt through that whole disassembly/reassembly. You will need long extensions to get to those bottom bolts from the side. Take the airbox out to have more room. fortunately i had the extra long box end wrench and crows foot because you can't tighten those until you have the intake installed as well. I reached that bolt from the front squeezing my hand under the headers with the extra long box end wrench. Then using a long extension with a crows foot, I was able to tighten it up from the side. get a can of those copper gasket sealer spray and spray the gasket and mating flanges liberally..allowing 5 minutes per coat.

 

[Marcelo73]

I’ve been looking at roof racks. There are three different types:

Type 1 is the gutter mount.
Type 2 is a generic rack that somehow ties into the factory roof rack system.
Type 3 is a custom rack that is solely designed for the XJ, for both full and short rail lengths.

After looking at several roof racks, I have decided to go with the custom rack made by Kevin’s OffRoad in Phoenix. There are many reasons why I like it, but I wanted to highlight 6 reasons for my decision with #1 as the most important to #6 as the least important.

1. Custom to the XJ and for the 2000/2001 short length rails
2. Mounts to the OE roof mount
3. 4 light tabs in the front and 2 light tabs in the rear
4. Mesh floor
5. Fully welded
6. Hi-Lift mount on one side, shovel mount on the other.

The rack can only be shipped by freight, so I’ll probably take the 6 hour drive down to Phoenix the next time I go. Anyway, here’s a link to the website: http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/index ... cts_id=627

IMHO one of the best looking roof rack for Cherokee. Gobi also makes good ones. I like the protection light bar but don't like the shape (higher in the front and lower in the rear). Maybe it has a technical reason.

By the way, very nice rig. I'm still debating if buy a lift kit or build one with components.

 

[Redsnake]

Just checking with the OP to see if you ever installed those Borla Headers and also if you replaced your pre-cats?

Thanks to USMCGunrock for your input!! Much appreciated as well...

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Just checking with the OP to see if you ever installed those Borla Headers and also if you replaced your pre-cats?

Sorry Redsnake. I asked USMCGunrock to reply to your post since I have not done the install yet. I have all the exhaust parts except for the pre-cats. I give myself a monthly allowance to buy vehicle parts and I simply do not have the funds at the moment. Give me a few months and I’ll have it done.

 

[USMCGunrock]

Just checking with the OP to see if you ever installed those Borla Headers and also if you replaced your pre-cats?

Thanks to USMCGunrock for your input!! Much appreciated as well...

When you remove your exhaust manifold, you have to take the pre-cats out just so you have wiggle-room and be able to line up the new headers with the pre-cats. While out, inspect the pre-cats with a flashlight check the media for any buildups, cracking, etc. If there are no problems, just use it. From my searches, I've found the stock pre-cats to be of good quality even their bends. Only other replacement pre-cats I see that's similar are those from Catco and they are stainless as well for around $200. There is another replacement by Benchmark that seems to have better bends but it's running close to $400. Both pre-cats are not for use in California but 49 states legal.

 

[Redsnake]

Thanks guys I appreciate the insight!!

Looks like those headers run ~ $400 +/- best I could find online plus thru in some new pre-cats for ~ $200 and that's not chump change ... at least not now. I've been getting the P0432 code for a long time and have tried everything except changing out the pre-cats to clear this code. I'm thinking I 'need' the headers, pre-cats and also a cat-back... why not do the whole thing right.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

I'm thinking I 'need' the headers, pre-cats and also a cat-back... why not do the whole thing right.

I couldn't agree more.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

There are two major benefits for using the Amsoil Coolant Booster. (1) It can reduce engine temps up to 6 degrees when mixed with 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture and (2) it helps fight radiator corrosion.

The following information was taken from http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rdcb.aspx

Competitive testing comparing AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost and Red Line Water Wetter® was conducted in an independent laboratory. The ASTM corrosion tests featured in this study are designed to simulate the most grueling conditions cooling systems face, and are the actual test standards the automotive industry relies upon for the approval of engine coolant products.Test results show Dominator Coolant Boost provides enhanced temperature reduction and corrosion protection properties over Red Line Water Wetter.

To test temperature reduction capabilities, controlled engine dynamometer (dyno) tests were performed on a 350 cubic inch Chevy engine with an aluminum block and cylinder heads. In each phase of testing, the engine was operated at 4,500 rpm until coolant temperature stabilized. As benchmarks for the test, straight water coolant stabilized at 220°F and a 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture stabilized at 228°F.

Dominator Coolant Boost
Mixed with 50/50 Antifreeze/Water
6°F reduction
Mixed with Straight Water Coolant
19°F reduction

Red Line Water Wetter
Mixed with 50/50 Antifreeze/Water
3°F reduction
Mixed with Straight Water Coolant
12°F reduction

Cast Aluminum Alloys Corrosion Test

The Cast Aluminum Alloys Corrosion Test (ASTM D-4340) measures corrosion protection properties in modern automobile and high-performance race engines with aluminum cylinder heads. A cast aluminum puck was heated to 275°F at 28 PSI and exposed to the test coolant mixture for one week. Weight loss of less than 1.0 mg is required to pass the test.

Weight Loss in mg (1.00 max)
Dominator Coolant Boost
0.14

Weight Loss in mg (1.00 max)
Red Line Water Wetter
0.21

Weight Loss in mg (1.00 max)
Water Only
3.97

Corrosion Test in Glassware
In the Corrosion Test in Glassware (ASTM D-1384), six metal coupons constructed of the most common metals in automotive cooling systems were totally immersed in aerated coolant mixtures for 336 hours at 190°F. Each test was performed three times to determine the average weight change for each metal. The ASTM sets the “allowable” weight loss maximums for each metal.

Copper weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (1)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (1)
Water Only (25)

Solder weight loss (mg), Allowable 30 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (1)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (6)
Water Only (62)

Brass weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (2)
Water Only (23)

Steel weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (1)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (1)
Water Only (18)

Cast Iron weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (0)
Water Only (29)

Cast Aluminum weight loss (mg), Allowable 30 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (16)
Water Only (91)

Simulated Service Corrosion Test
In the Simulated Service Corrosion Test (ASTM D-2570), six metal coupons constructed of the most common metals in automotive cooling systems were exposed to ASTM corrosive water designed to simulate hard and corrosive water in degraded coolant for 1,064 hours at 190°F. Coolant was maintained at a temperature and flow rate equivalent to the operating conditions seen in most passenger vehicles. Corrosive weight loss suffered during the test determines the additive’s corrosion protection properties. The ASTM sets the “allowable” weight loss maximums for each metal.

Copper weight loss (mg), Allowable 20 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (7)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (6)
Water Only (66)

Solder weight loss (mg), Allowable 60 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (25)
Water Only (120)

Brass weight loss (mg), Allowable 20 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (3)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (5)
Water Only (59)

Steel weight loss (mg), Allowable 20 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (4)
Water Only (54)

Cast Iron weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (2)
Water Only (117)

Cast Aluminum weight loss (mg), Allowable 60 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (34)
Water Only (89)

 

[dieselenthusiast]

I decided to go with the 4 switch bezel. It’s an OE part and will allow for a cleaner install. I’m not sure which switches I’ll use in this bezel, but I’ll have no problem filling it up.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

I used my diagnostic tool for the first time. After installing the new radiator and triple fan kit, I wanted to check my coolant temperature. Surprisingly, the OE gauge is pretty accurate. So far, I am happy with the new radiator and triple fan kit.

 

[Redsnake]

There are two major benefits for using the Amsoil Coolant Booster. (1) It can reduce engine temps up to 6 degrees when mixed with 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture and (2) it helps fight radiator corrosion.

Any idea how this compares to the Royal Purple Coolant Additive? Not trying to nit-pick... just I'm getting ready to do a coolant flush and I can't seem to find any of the Amsoil product locally, but can find both the Water Wetter and Royal Purple. Of those 2 I'd 'guess' the Royal Purple would be better.

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Any idea how this compares to the Royal Purple Coolant Additive? Not trying to nit-pick... just I'm getting ready to do a coolant flush and I can't seem to find any of the Amsoil product locally, but can find both the Water Wetter and Royal Purple. Of those 2 I'd 'guess' the Royal Purple would be better.

I really don't know. I use the Amsoil Coolant Boost more for the anti-corrosion benefits than I do for its cooling advantages. Depending on what you’re looking for, I would think that Red Line and/or Royal Purple would be sufficient.

 

[GregGA]

Thanks dieselenthusiast for you documentation on the build, and sources for your products.

I think I'll do the coolant filter, more for a hobby project than a real need. But it can't hurt. On my 87, I have a hard line from the factory transmission cooler that will interfere with the location you used. I will use the factory skid plate and mount it on that.

The only suggestion I can make, is visit www.bobistheoilguy.com. You have no need to change the Amsoil after 964 miles and 5 months. IMHO, the whole point of synthetic oil is to extend the drain interval. A dino would be a better ROI for you. But, this hobby is all about doing what you want to, and can afford. Dino just might give you extra change for some other add-on:eeks1: The oil web site has a ton of info. Some how I think you probably have already discovered it:wierd:

Great work!!

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Thanks dieselenthusiast for you documentation on the build, and sources for your products.

You’re welcome. I hope it helps others make informed decisions.

I think I'll do the coolant filter, more for a hobby project than a real need. But it can't hurt.

After seeing the sludge in the bottom of my overflow bottle and seeing the gunk floating around in my coolant system, I sometimes wonder if the weakest link in the entire cooling system was the absence of a coolant filter. That's how radiators and heater cores get clogged. Even if the coolant filter isn't a real need, it's a peace of mind knowing that my cooling system will be clean and working efficiently. It’s something I would recommend for those who are installing a new radiator and/or heater core.

The only suggestion I can make, is visit www.bobistheoilguy.com. You have no need to change the Amsoil after 964 miles and 5 months. IMHO, the whole point of synthetic oil is to extend the drain interval. A dino would be a better ROI for you. But, this hobby is all about doing what you want to, and can afford. Dino just might give you extra change for some other add-on:eeks1: The oil web site has a ton of info. Some how I think you probably have already discovered it:wierd:

If you go back and look at my UOA, you will see that I had fuel dilution which was causing viscosity to decrease slightly below grade. The oil was still suitable for continued use, but I don’t mind changing the oil twice a year. You are right that I could save a little money and switch to a dino oil, but I like the protection that I get with the Amsoil. Plus, the Amsoil is better for cold weather starts and fast start-up circulation. It also has high levels of detergent and dispersant additives which help resist sludge and carbon deposits. I’ve seen -30 degree here, so I’m much more comfortable using the Amsoil synthetic.

 

[GregGA]

Good points. Didn't realize you hit -30, so I agree on synthetic. I don't need it in GA,
but I'm using Rotella T for the detergent add pack. Used Rotella T-6 for one load,
but just couldn't justify synthetic with the vanishing winters we are having in Georgia.

Keep us posted on any new mods!

Greg

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Keep us posted on any new mods!

Well, I decided to convert the rear drum brakes to disc brakes. After looking at different options including an axle swap, I decided to go with the TeraFlex disc brake kit.

According to TeraFex:

“Fits all Jeep® factory rear axles from 1991 through 2006, including the Dana 35 c-clip, Dana 44 and Chrysler 8.25. The TeraFlex disc brake kit is manufactured within exact tolerances to provide the crucial stopping power that larger tires, and extreme off road situations demand. The TeraFlex disc brake kit is ideal for anyone wanting to upgrade a quality disc brake package to their axles. This disc brake kit is intended for use as a bolt-on upgrade to replace factory Jeep® drum brakes. A kit is also available for axles using the new ‘big Ford’ housing ends, such as TeraFlex high performance axles like the Tera44 Adventure axles, or Tera CRD 50R & 60Rs. The internal drum parking brake provides outstanding holding power when compared to other disc brake conversions. Note: New emergency brake cables are available separately. Factory hard brake lines must be replaced with shorter lines. The Ford kit requires a separate flex brake line kit (Part #DBHK ) to connect to the systems hard line. These lines are NOT included in the disc brake kit. Some factory Jeep® 15” Wheels may rub on the caliper. Do NOT operate the vehicle until you confirm adequate caliper/wheel clearance.”