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New motor oil wear problems on older engines

The man who knows more about motor oil and the ways it protects engines than anyone I've ever heard of says this:
"If a motor oil is formulated properly then wear will NOT be a problem regardless of design. Zinc is only a part of the issue and its costly but there are better EP adds, they just cost more!"
I'm not worrying.
 
ok, i just read most of the 11 pages, and have seen VERY LITTLE if any mention of amsoil. everybody is so concerned with "cheap" oil. and the biggest "problem" seems to be the flat tappet, so i have a few specific questions.


1) does anybody have any info on AMSOIL??? (it's what i run)
--my take was always.......if it's good enough for 1,000HP dragster that probably puts the same wear on his engine in a couple passes that we do in a couple years, then it should be fine for daily driving/wheeling

2) if the flat tapped is the only problem, then wouldn't it be somewhat reasonable to upgrade like we do with other problems??? generally when something goes out on our jeeps we upgrade to something better (stock manifold cracks we go header). so why not upgrade the cam and lifters from flats to rollers??? or am i overlooking something???

3)does anybody in todays world even keep their vehicle or engine long enough to care??? i've never owned a vehicle for more than 6 months until i got my jeep. i've owned it going on 3 years now and am wearing down my second engine. and the jeep doesn't look like it'll last to 5 years. alot of people nowadays either swap vehicles every few years, or upgrade/swap engines to "play" with their toys. so "in theory" the only people that would really be affected by this would be grandma and grandpa who don't do anything to their vehicles, and they shouldn't be driving anyway. and mom and dad, often times are already getting their hands on these "newer and greater" cars where it apparently doesn't matter. so...............does it really matter??? i don't think ANY amount of additive is going to protect my engine from water or constant offroad/racing abuse.
 
geeaea said:
Most of your analytical machinery read up to 5um particles.

Perhaps you may be aware of DalessII, who did a filter test on JU. He was some banging researcher and got some lab to run tests for him free. His numbers were through the roof as far as wear metals. That lab "digested" the samples with acid and reduced everything (large particles small particles) to the true particle size for the test.

Most UOA labs can't/don't do that (none that I know of). The spectrography reads particles of 5um or lower. A "normal" UOA under digested criteria would have wear metals in the thousands in terms of ppm and would be totally variable based on the level of filtration. If you've ever seen particle counts on oil samples, you can see how a PureOne is going to give you a lower particle count than the standard lowball Fram. If you have bypass filtration, then you attenuate the larger particles even more. A sample drawn from such an engine, being digested, would show substantially less ppm (although still very high by UOA standards).

We used AA in my former job as an industrial waste treatment specialist. We would test for various elements. If we wanted "free" copper ..it was a straight sample. If we wanted "total" copper, it was digested. Throw a penny in my effluent going to the river.....no problem for the DEP/EPA. Digest that penny and I was committing a major environmental violation.


..but beyond all this, the oil blenders are taking care of those who still have flat tappet cams ..as much of a vanishing breed as we are. Right now I'm testing SM 5w-20 Pennzoil Platinum in my wife's 4.0. Now I've got a high volume aftermarket oil pump and have Mopar roller rockers ..but my lifters are still OEM as is the cam. My wear indicators are not out of line with my 2.5 4 banger using Rottella T synth 5w-40 which is an SL. Our spring rates are 200lbf (force) max ...not 200 lbs on the valve seats. Those playing hotrod with their SBC's out of the Jeg's catalog have to worry about breaking in and maintaining their aggressive cams.

Keep in mind that many of the advances in contemporary oils is in terms of deposit control. A well cared for engine, even to OEM recommendations, typically will have very low levels of deposits. Oils now have tremendous ability to keep stuff in suspension. Advances in base stock technology have radically reduced the need for viscosity index improvers that used to shear routinely in service. The reason that you see so many manufacturers going to 20 weight oils is because most of their engines were already running on them after 1500 miles or so due to polymer shearing. The trick was bringing a 5w-20 oil to market. Ford took care of that by seeking CAFE certification using them.

In the past, favorable Fe levels were only attainable with higher visc oils in this engine. Over the past few years many 30 weights have been shown to contain this inherent characteristic. This points to modern additive combinations being able to trump visc in many instances. I'd say that fuel dilution, due to injector imbalance, is more responsible for higher Fe levels in this engine than is due to the oil's anti-wear properties.

The I am totally puzzled at this point. Just what equipment are they using then for metal analysis. How can they tell what metals and what percent of metal is in an individual particle if they don't digest the sample? XRF can be used to get the alloy analysis of a solid metal surface, and I have heard of it being used in soil analysis for trace metals in soil, but I am not sure how accurate the values are that it generates. It may explain how they produce so many test results for few dollars (that has always concerned me).

Personally I would want the whole story, but that would probably be too costly. Not familiar with "DalessII,", but it sounds imteresting, also makes my point about the bulk of the wear metals (mass wise) being in the filter and the sediment in the bottom of the oil pan, in places where there is little circulation.

From what you are saying, I must question what they are reporting as metals, if it is not total metals in the used oil, then what is it, and how are they are measuring it? What is it not reporting?????

Free copper samples should be filtered first to assure a more homogeneous sample is introduced into the AA, if they use AA, which they do for EPA waste water tests, other wise you are likely to not get repeatable results in the test if there are any TSS solids in the sample. Just one particle of copper in the tested sample pulled from the bulk sample would skew the test results, if they used AA.

If they used the ancient wet methods it would be OK as it would only show ionized metals (Free Cu in ionized metal salts) but the old wet methods are subject to multiple interferences from other ionized metals, and is also subject to interferences from strong chelating agents.

We are in agreement on the effect of different quality filters on the total metal left in the oil, but that just makes my earlier point that a UOA test is not the be all test for engine wear! One would need to wash the engine, & filter, collect, weigh and analyse the washings, open the used filter, wash, collect and weigh the filtered mass from the filter and analyze it as well, then add in the total metals from the oil, add all three and look at the total mass of metal lost from engine wear and corrosion to get the total, real picture. And to make matters worse, one would need to start with a clean engine before each mileage..oil test began.

Regarding "Right now I'm testing SM 5w-20 Pennzoil Platinum in my wife's 4.0."

All I can say is you are brave soul using Penzoil, and using 5W20 SM on top of it. Penzoil ate the only engine I ever wore out.

Regarding "My wear indicators are not out of line with my 2.5 4 banger using Rottella T synth 5w-40 which is an SL."

Based on what you are saying about how the UOA test is actually done, and what it is reporting, and even worse what it is not reporting, I am at the point where I would seriously question whether a UOA is even going to register a serious metal wear problem in either engine.

In fact it is begining to sound like the only way a really bad UOA analysis would happen is if the oil viscosity increased substantially reducing the settling rate of metal particles to the bottom of the oil pan, and if the acid neutralizers had been depleted alowing more of that metal to be disolved into the oil.

I have had my suspisions that the polymers were shearing based on the hot, long highway drive engine oil pressure drops everyone has been reported.

I use to run straight 30WT (wnter) and 40WT (summer) Exxon, and never saw more than a 5 lb presure drop from cold to fully heated up operation.

I only recently (like 7 years ago) starting using multiviscosity oils myself.

I suspect the switch to 5W20 WT oils is also driven by fuel mileage needs combined with tighter engine tolerances that newer production machinery has made possible in the newer engines, and they cannot run 20W50 oils with those tight tolerances. The older engines like mine do not have the tighter clearances that the newer engines have and they can run much higher viscosity oils, and in fact run better on higher viscosity oils.

If I had a brand new 4.0, I would probably run 10W30 Mobil 1 EP synthetic in it. If I lived in Canada and it was new engine I might go with the 5W20 synthetic.
 
scorpio_vette said:
ok, i just read most of the 11 pages, and have seen VERY LITTLE if any mention of amsoil. everybody is so concerned with "cheap" oil. and the biggest "problem" seems to be the flat tappet, so i have a few specific questions.

I don't think it is cheap oil we are concerned with, it is reformulated oil that is reformulated for newer engines and for extended Cat converter life, that has compromised the needs of older engine designs during the reformulation process.


1) does anybody have any info on AMSOIL??? (it's what i run)
--my take was always.......if it's good enough for 1,000HP dragster that probably puts the same wear on his engine in a couple passes that we do in a couple years, then it should be fine for daily driving/wheeling

A friend of mine has been using Amsoil products for a while in his 1982 Nissan which has a diesel SD22, 5 speed manual tranny.

From what I have read that is a dangerous assumption, as the true drag racing engine oil does not have any detergents or acid neutralizer additives in it since it is used and drained in a day or two of racing. There is a big difference between the two oils as to what they need to accomplish and what they are exposed to between drain intervals.

2) if the flat tapped is the only problem, then wouldn't it be somewhat reasonable to upgrade like we do with other problems??? generally when something goes out on our jeeps we upgrade to something better (stock manifold cracks we go header). so why not upgrade the cam and lifters from flats to rollers??? or am i overlooking something???

Not all of us here do hardware upgrades. There has been some discusion in another thread here about "roller" cam/lifter modifications for this issue. To some extent I do mods here and there, but I also like to keep as much of my old vehicles stock as possible.

3)does anybody in todays world even keep their vehicle or engine long enough to care??? i've never owned a vehicle for more than 6 months until i got my jeep. i've owned it going on 3 years now and am wearing down my second engine. and the jeep doesn't look like it'll last to 5 years. alot of people nowadays either swap vehicles every few years, or upgrade/swap engines to "play" with their toys. so "in theory" the only people that would really be affected by this would be grandma and grandpa who don't do anything to their vehicles, and they shouldn't be driving anyway. and mom and dad, often times are already getting their hands on these "newer and greater" cars where it apparently doesn't matter. so...............does it really matter??? i don't think ANY amount of additive is going to protect my engine from water or constant offroad/racing abuse.

This old fart is gong to still be driving for one hell of long time!!! :gonnablow

They will have to pry the keys to my Jeep out of my cold dead hands after I hit about 90 or so. I expect to still be driving my 85 and 87 Jeep at that time, which would be around the year 2047! That is of course assuming I can still find gas or diesel fuel to run in them that long.:shiver:Might have to convert them to burning waste sludge or garbage by then!

I put over 450,000 miles on a 1978 Dodge station wagon that I owned from 1980 till 2003. Rebuilt the engine once, only because fuel got into the oil and I discovered it too late.

Many of us here also use Jeeps as our DDs. :sunshine:

Oh, and I still have a 1973 Ford LTD with a 351 V-8 in my driveway. :sunshine:
Has less than 90,000 miles on the entire vehicle! :greensmok

OK, I confess, it belonged to the little old lady down the street that I bought it from in 1996, at that time it still had the original vinyl top on it, and only 24,000 miles on the odometer. She drove it once a week to the grocery store and church, maybe 2 miles a week for 20 years. She's in here mid 80's now (retired).
 
Just found this:

"[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
The major limitation with AES is that because the method requires excitation of individual atoms, the sample must be fully vaporized to allow all atoms present to be measured. While this is not a problem for small particles and dissolved metals, the probability that a particle can be vaporized and analyzed using AES drops very rapidly above 5 microns. In fact an AES spectrometer is all but blind to particles in excess of 10 microns.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Unfortunately, depending on the wear mechanism and the severity of the problem, active machine wear may generate particles that are greater than 10 microns in size, and will thus be invisible to the AES instrument. For this reason, it is important in any oil analysis program to not rely solely on AES data to determine active wear, but to include tests such as particle counting, ferrous density analysis and patch microscopy to measure larger particles."[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]at:[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]http://www.practicingoilanalysis.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=287&relatedbookgroup=OilAnalysis

From the end of the article:

"
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]In practice, provided the two instruments are calibrated properly, there is very little difference between the accuracy of data from both types of instrument. However, there is one very important difference between ICP and RDE instruments. Both ICP and RDE instruments suffer from size limitation effects. This effect limits the size of particle that can be measured using conventional AES. For ICP, only particles smaller than approximately 3 microns can be measured. For RDE instruments, the limit is slightly higher, around 8 to 10 microns. The implication is that if an oil sample is analyzed first by ICP, then by RDE, the concentrations of certain elements, particularly wear metals and contaminants, which may be present as 3- to 10-micron particles will potentially be different. While this is of little concern when trending data from different samples analyzed by the same instruments, data from samples analyzed by RDE and ICP instruments typically will not correlate."[/FONT]


Also:

"
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]For more than 40 years, spectrometric oil analysis has been applied as a routine and cost-effective condition monitoring technique. It is used to determine the elemental concentration in parts per million of wear metals, contaminants and additives in a used oil sample. With the knowledge of the wear metal and contaminant concentrations of the machine or engine being monitored, this technique may be used to determine if a sampled machine is operating properly. [/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]It is a fact that spectrometric oil analysis detection efficiency decreases as the wear particle size increases. This partial limitation is not a significant issue with reciprocating engines that produce mostly small particles, but can be a problem in fatigue failures of rolling element bearings, such as those in military gas turbines that generate large particles at the outset of failure without generating small particles. In addition, some wear modes such as spalling, severe sliding wear and cutting wear produce large particles that may go undetected by standard spectroscopy methods. The extent of this problem varies by machine and spectrometer type."[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]found at:
[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]http://www.practicingoilanalysis.com/article_printer_friendly.asp?articleid=918

"
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Case History
The following is a typical case history from a Northeastern power company where a condensate vacuum pump was sampled. The commercial laboratory provided oil analysis services for lubricant physical properties and metals including RFS for larger particles. Although the laboratory supplied data for 20 wear metals, contaminants and additives, a trend was observed only for iron and silicon (Figure 6).
[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Figure 6. Spectrometric Analysis Trends
for Normal (Fine) and RFS (Coarse) Analyses
(click here to enlarge)
[/FONT]
[/SIZE][/FONT]​
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Normal spectrometric analysis (fine) did not show significant wear. In most industrial systems, such as this pump, concentrations of wear metals will fluctuate in accordance with oil added, and can vary by as much as 10 ppm. Therefore, the wear, as indicated by normal spectrometric analysis, did not exceed expected limits and no maintenance recommendations were made. On the other hand, the RFS analyses, as indicated by “coarse”, showed a clear trend resulting in maintenance recommendations (Figure 8). [/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Individually, the silicon readings were not cause for alarm. However, when combined with RFS data for iron, a red flag appeared to the laboratory. The RFS trend for iron jumped enough that a severe alarm was issued after the January 9, 2003 sample. The maintenance response was to “bleed and feed”, that is, drain some lubricant and top it off. The next two RFS analyses showed a corresponding reduction in the iron. However, the May 22, 2003 sample indicated there was still a problem and a severe alarm was again generated. This time the maintenance personnel opened up the pump and found a loose-fitting bearing that was fretting on the bearing housing, bearing and shaft (Figure 7). The RFS data also prompted the laboratory to prepare a ferrogram of this sample. Ferrographic analysis verified the presence of large particles and the occurrence of cutting wear (Figure 8)."

Here is apage on XRF use in oil analysis:

http://www.practicingoilanalysis.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=602&relatedbookgroup=OilAnalysis

How about some of you that get UOAs asking your labs what they are actually using for the metals analysis!???????
[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
 
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Ecomike........sorry that was bad wording on my part. i meant "cheap priced" oil, not "cheap quality". i just thought it was curious that there wasn't much talk about hi end syntethics like amsoil. i saw RP mentioned a couple times, but that's it. i think it would just be easier to spend a couple bucks more to run the hi end syntethics if they work and have what it takes.

and you're right.......some of us do actually use our jeeps as DD. so do i. that's actually all i currently own. and i'm getting really good and swapping engines and trannies with minimal downtime. LOL
 
We are in agreement on the effect of different quality filters on the total metal left in the oil, but that just makes my earlier point that a UOA test is not the be all test for engine wear! One would need to wash the engine, & filter, collect, weigh and analyse the washings, open the used filter, wash, collect and weigh the filtered mass from the filter and analyze it as well, then add in the total metals from the oil, add all three and look at the total mass of metal lost from engine wear and corrosion to get the total, real picture. And to make matters worse, one would need to start with a clean engine before each mileage..oil test began.

UOA is mainly to tell you the condition of the oil. Now it will surely show if something is "unright". Most labs ..even the cheaper ones, have databases that average samples index with mileage. More advanced lab services actually have signature profiles.

For the novice, you're looking at the oil and to see what your contamination level is. Otherwise, you're looking, as your sources indicate, trending. When going from one laundry detergent to another ...if I notice 1/2 as much lint in the trap, I have no clue where the individual component came from in the various fabrics in the dryer. I don't need to in the sense that I know what where ever they came from, they're shedding at 1/2 the rate that they once were (assuming that the composite is somewhat proportional).

So, you can't equate UOA directly to wear ...but there's no denying that less is better.

I don't agree about massive (the lion's share) of wear ejecta residing in sludge or other recesses in the engine. Oils have their own AW package that acts very much like an ion exchange bed in a water softener. As these agents (something like moly) plate out in their film formation, they're going to displace older established film formations. As these form, they will entrain other particles in the process. This is why there's speculation that there is more wear with a shorter OCI (let's say 2-3k) as opposed to those 4k and greater. It's typically a "seating" process. You see this most, in many engines, with something like RedLine with its totally aggressive additive package. Some engines take two or three oil changes to "settle down".

When there is a doubt about "residuals" ..I've performed an in engine VOA (that is, a couple of heating cycles on new oil) just to see what appears.


Wear metals can be effected by a number of factors. Fuel dilution will elevate your cylinder wear (Fe) ..but if you're not savvy in understanding that, you won't integrate how to correct the elevated wear. You may switch to a 50 weight and still see no results and reason that you've got some degenerative issue since change in visc showed no improvement.

I don't pretend to be an expert in UOA interpretation. Again, for the novice, it mainly tells you the condition of the oil and if your air filtration and cooling system are in good shape (no head gasket leaks). If you see an increase in Aluminum (throttle body) and Chrome (valves) in conjunction with elevated silicon (air borne abrasives) with a little Fe mixed in, you're probably due for an air plumbing examination or a new air filter.

Your engine can grenade without ever showing anything in UOA. UOA won't tell you when your cam or crank might snap ..and a variety of other catastrophic failure items.


Yes, when our lab did free copper, they vacuum filtered it through a "stone" type thingy (I'm not a lab technician).
 
Some one recently asked about a product (oil addiitve) called Restore. I did some research on it and according to this UK site the secret CSL additive is microsheres of Copper (60%), and Lead(40%), coated I ( I think) with Silver. The particles plate out and fill in microscopic holes and crevices in the high wear areas of the engine. They are in a 5 to about 16 (?) micron diameter as I recall reading on another site. One site I found said it was developed and patented by NASA for use in space.....

One ebay site I found (in the UK) had about 40 impressive looking stories from users of the stuff.

Sounds like an interesting additive.

Possible negatives are damage to the Cat converter (lead) if the engine has severe blow by, but if it has severe blowby the Cat is probably already toast from Zn and P contamination anyway. I also wonder about possible lead emmissions from the stuff???? As a one time fix for 500 miles of run time, followed by changing out the oil, it might be a useful product for restoring engine performance and staving off an engine rebuild if used before the engine is totally shot.

I just installed a brand new Cat Conv in mine 4.0, so I won't be trying it any time soon in my beast!
 
scorpio_vette said:
Ecomike........sorry that was bad wording on my part. i meant "cheap priced" oil, not "cheap quality". i just thought it was curious that there wasn't much talk about hi end syntethics like amsoil. i saw RP mentioned a couple times, but that's it. i think it would just be easier to spend a couple bucks more to run the hi end syntethics if they work and have what it takes.

and you're right.......some of us do actually use our jeeps as DD. so do i. that's actually all i currently own. and i'm getting really good and swapping engines and trannies with minimal downtime. LOL

I think the reason you have not seen as much discussion on the synthetics is there has been little disagreement among us about them. Mobil 1's synthetics, Royal Purple, and a few others now are already listed here somewhere in this short (LOL) thread, with the known details as to their Zn & P levels. No one has contacted Amsoil for an update on their Zn & P levels or for their recomendations and posted the answer yet (HINT!).

For now, I am stuck with using mostly dyno oil, as are many others due the age on our seals, engines, etc.

I have as I said earlier here actually starting using some synthetic, specifically Royal Purple MT-90 for my 5 speed, 1982 manual tranny I just last summer sweating over, but it has brand new seals, etc.
 
I passed over this thread till I noticed it had 12 pages.Holly crap!
I'll add what I know and experiance. I talked to a K&N rep at truck-fest in Denver last week. He told me the best oil filter is Moble 1. K&N are made from the same filter but use a thicker can with a drilled nut on the end for safty wire.
For years now it has been preety common knowledge to use Rottella T in all old engines that leak synthetic. It's the only dino oil anybody should have used for years if you wern't going to study oil or use high end synthetic. Maybe I just got lucky but this topic has bean beat to death for ever it seems.Same with the GM addative. Cam manufactures for years have been fighting with warrenty claims because of todays oils and a lot of them are gone now. It's the freaking crap oil!
This is my experiance with moble 1,Prolong oil addative and slick 50: Boats can be run at WOT and you can read your max rpm. On a 16ft GM 4cy mercruser I picked up 1000 rpm when I changed from dino to Moble 1 15w50 with slick 50. On a 20ft 454 big block boat I picked up 800 RPM when I went from dino to Moble 1 15w50 and another 500rpm with prolong added. It wasn't just me it was all the boaters that switched and ran them hard. According to Hot Boat magazine 15 HP would be needed on a 20ft boat to see those gains in speed.
I bought a new 3.5hp snapper push mower 15 years ago and beat it in the long hot summers of Atlanta and then Little rock. Long growing seasons. It burnt a valve and I tore it apart. It still had almost all the hone marks on the cylinder wall. Moble 1 15w50 made that sucker last even with the governor jacked way up. Same with a hopped up XR 250 that I beat, no tryed to kill in the Arkansaw heat. Moble 1 15w 50. The honda oil would make it bog out from extream heat but the Moble 1 let it run forever.
Questions. Since the good old 15w50 moble one is getting hard to find has anybody looked at their V-twin oil? it's Probably the old 15w50 I don't know but it would have to be good for air cooled harleys.. And isn't their a oil filter that is bigger that will fit our XJ's? Are all the years the same?

Found this.http://www.msds.exxonmobil.com/psims/AlternateFormat.aspx?DocumentID=84085&DocumentFormat=RTF
 
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Nice post. But try and keep up, 12 pages is nothin, this thread is just getin started, LOL.:D The topic is sort of old, but the newest API spec oils are just taking over the shelves now, with even less ZDDP that the last change did several years back, including reduced ZDDP in the Rotella T for diesels due the new 2007 diesels having cat converters and exhaust particluate filters. :rattle:ULSD fuel is involved in the conspiracy :D as well.

I have seen Prolong on the shelf, but that is all I know. Other than you use it, what else do you know about its contents?

I have looked at the V-twin Mobil oil, but I am not currently using 100% synthetics. I am using semisynthetic as an additive to my dyno oil (long story don't ask). The Mobil V twin does have plenty of ZDDP in it, but so do some of the other Mobil 1 oils as well.

Yes there is a larger oil filter available for the newer 4.0s. The Older Renix engines (87-90) need a pipe nipple swap out from metric to US threads to use the larger filter, which I did earlier this year on mine.


Stumpalump said:
I passed over this thread till I noticed it had 12 pages.Holly crap!
I'll add what I know and experiance. I talked to a K&N rep at truck-fest in Denver last week. He told me the best oil filter is Moble 1. K&N are made from the same filter but use a thicker can with a drilled nut on the end for safty wire.
For years now it has been preety common knowledge to use Rottella T in all old engines that leak synthetic. It's the only dino oil anybody should have used for years if you wern't going to study oil or use high end synthetic. Maybe I just got lucky but this topic has bean beat to death for ever it seems.Same with the GM addative. Cam manufactures for years have been fighting with warrenty claims because of todays oils and a lot of them are gone now. It's the freaking crap oil!
This is my experiance with moble 1,Prolong oil addative and slick 50: Boats can be run at WOT and you can read your max rpm. On a 16ft GM 4cy mercruser I picked up 1000 rpm when I changed from dino to Moble 1 15w50 with slick 50. On a 20ft 454 big block boat I picked up 800 RPM when I went from dino to Moble 1 15w50 and another 500rpm with prolong added. It wasn't just me it was all the boaters that switched and ran them hard. According to Hot Boat magazine 15 HP would be needed on a 20ft boat to see those gains in speed.
I bought a new 3.5hp snapper push mower 15 years ago and beat it in the long hot summers of Atlanta and then Little rock. Long growing seasons. It burnt a valve and I tore it apart. It still had almost all the hone marks on the cylinder wall. Moble 1 15w50 made that sucker last even with the governor jacked way up. Same with a hopped up XR 250 that I beat, no tryed to kill in the Arkansaw heat. Moble 1 15w 50. The honda oil would make it bog out from extream heat but the Moble 1 let it run forever.
Questions. Since the good old 15w50 moble one is getting hard to find has anybody looked at their V-twin oil? it's Probably the old 15w50 I don't know but it would have to be good for air cooled harleys.. And isn't their a oil filter that is bigger that will fit our XJ's? Are all the years the same?

Found this.http://www.msds.exxonmobil.com/psims/AlternateFormat.aspx?DocumentID=84085&DocumentFormat=RTF
 
Well, bewilderbeast. EcoMike is taking exception to the SM evolution in motor oils. Since you had to be on SL for a good bit of those 11 years, he's figuring that you'll grenade sometime in the future. How near or far into the future he's uncertain.

I assure you, that given enough time, your engine will stop operating (Hey, man ...you're gonna die <big smile> So? You are too ). I don't think it will be from cam failure ..but who knows (a cam can fail even with gobs of ZDDP) <shrug>. I would expect that you'll see the typical 250k+ out of it if you can keep from cracking it up or having it turn into rusted junk.

Everyone PLEASE keep in mind that ZDDP decays on a per rpm basis. Therefore SM is not any less protecting (in normal applications) than SL even if they didn't put other AW adds in to help out. If anything, it would effect the duration/length of the OCI. I truly doubt that anyone here REALLY does anywhere near OEM recommended drains ..let alone what might challenge the SM level of ZDDP. I think that most of your subscribe to the 3k/3m type of oil change interval.

This is a passive enhancement to the national fleet's emissions integrity. You're putting more phos and zinc into your catalyst if you're changing out the oil too soon. You refresh the volatiles in a more timely manner. That is, we're currently (probably) sabotaging the corrective action anyway ..but if they can improve on coping with our sabotage ...<shrug>

That being said, just do whatever you want to do. Your engine will live a long life in either case. Worry ...don't worry ..the results will be about the same.
 
bewilderedbeast said:
So, exactly when can I expect my engine to fall apart?
At 11 years and 136K, it runs at well as it did when it was new.

Highest probabilty if you are supersticious is the next Friday the 13th, June 13, 2008.:shiver:
Unless of course you decide to park it somewhere and just not drive it! :jester:Then it might take quite a while to blow up. :sunshine:

geeaea,

I take exception to calling it evolution, regarding the SM API spec, how about we call it de-volution? So why do you think some of the motor oil blenders, like Royal Purple are staying with high ZDDP in the oils? And why are they keeping some SL spec oils on the market, if there is no need for it?

I did some more research today, there are several research studies showing the ZDDP protective wear film thinkness to be proportional to the ZDDP concentration in the oil so it is not just an RPM dependent issue. Although the film thickness does increase with increasing surface temperature, ie increasing RPMs, even the RPM driven film thickness increase is limited by the ZDDP concentration in the oil. Also turns out the ZDDP is an antioxident that protects the base oil from oxidation. Also found out today that water in the oil, especially hot water in the oil, decomposes, and CONSUMES ZDDP.

I also found that ZDDP has been a major oil addtive since the 1930s and has been and still is used in other oils like hydraulics fluids as well, and possibly (probably) in our brake fluids.

What is wrong with replacing a cat converter every 50,000 miles?
I would much prefer that over a worn out oil burning engine (talk about pollution! :shiver:), or worse replacing the engine twice as often to just avoid replacing a $50 cat converter every 50,000 to 75,000 miles. Talk about a waist. Even the EPA reports say they only expect to extend the Cat converter life from 75,000 to 150,000 miles with the reduced ZDDP concentration.

Everything EPA does is not always for the best. I do not subscribe to the theory that the Government knows what is best. They do make mistakes, sometimes BIG mistakes. I also do not subscibe to the theory that one oil is as good as another. And I am not about to trust an oil company to have my engines best interests at heart in formulating motor oils for the Wallyworld store shelves. If I was going to do that, I might just as well get out the gallon jars of vaseline and go back to letting the Stealerships do all my Jeep maintenance for me. No thanks, tried that once, could not sit down for months afterwards.:shiver:

I see the effects of beaurocratic political environmental legislation every day. Some of it based on suedo science, some of it driven by product marketing....some by pure politics and lobbyists. Lucky for us they don't seem to know how to screw evrything up all at once. Some of it actually turns out OK.

If you want to really get me started let's talk about the FDA and EPA regulation differences on mercury in the food supply, water and the environment. One says our tuna fish is hazardous waste, the other says it safe for human consumption.:shiver:

Yes some of the new SM oils may be OK, but I am no longer the trusting sort. Been burned too many times. I don't know who or what SM oil to trust.

In three our four years when the dust clears I will see who has had what luck with which SM oils, and I might reconsider some of them then.
 
Ecomike,

ZDDP is sacrificial ...there is no "thickness" to it. If you happen to have a surface break through the hydrodynamic layer ...zddp is there to "throw itself in harm's way".

Here's a brief excerpt from a GM engine development engineer. It's in regard to how the software was set up around ZDDP decay for the GM OLM. ZDDP decay is the fundamental root calculation in the length of service for oil. The OLM has something like a 50% safety factor for stating when the oil is shot. That is, it decays PRIMARILY by ZDDP decay and then is further decremented by trip length, open loop operation, blablabla.

By nature, ZDP is sacrifical. As ZDP is "used up" at a wear site to prevent micorwelding the concentration of ZDP decreases.... So...if you measure the ZDP concentration in engine oil in a running engine it will decrease at linear rate based on engine revolutions. Any given engine has a certain number of high potential wear areas where metal-to-metal contact could occur due to reduced film thickness and/or surface asperities....areas such as rubbing element cam followers, distributor gears, rocker arm pivots, push rod tips, etc...... The more of these areas the more ZDP depletion. The more often these features come in contact the greater the ZDP depletion. That is why, generally speaking, ZDP concentration in the oil, for any given engine, will decrease at a fairly linear rate when plotted versus cummulative engine revolutions. The more times it turns the more contact the more chance for wear the greater the depletion. This is as much of a fact as I could quote ever and is really not speculation or anything. It is proven beyond a shadow of a doubt in many studies. That is why it is ONE of the basis for determining oil life remaining and why it is THE basic premis of the GM oil life algorithm. It is only ONE of the things that determines oil life...but it is the one thing that can be tied to engine operation in a linear fashion and estimated very accurately by accumulating engine revolutions via a counter.

So, when you're quibbling over the difference between 800 ppm ..and 1200 ppm ....you're looking at the difference between a 7500 mile OCI and a 10,000+ OCI in viable zddp concentrations ..NOT grinding your cam to dust.


Royal Purple and the like are NOT over the counter oils. They don't cater to normal passenger car use. It's a "boutique" oil. The same with Red Line. Sure ..if you have your Jeg's catalog engine ...heavy spring seat rates ..blabla ..sure ...buy some added zddp laden additive and add to your credit card bill or home equity line of credit for you muscle car.

What is wrong with replacing a cat converter every 50,000 miles?

The OEM federally mandated warranty on emission controls for one thing. You're also looking at it through $100 cheap aftermarket cat prices and being a jeeper that doesn't mind (effectively) throwing on a muffler. This is environmental policy here and it extends to millions of people who are keeping their cars in service much ..much longer. Our ability to refresh the national fleet is going to erode very quickly. Try that on a 10 year old Honda (or Toyota) where the cat replacement is $900 cost+. The notion that those Asian vehicles are cheaper to own only goes so deep.

That being said, my 92 3.0 Mitsubishi Caravan was a fogger with bad oil seals. More than enough phos and zinc went through the exhaust and I still have my original cat @ 180k ..and still pass CURRENT emissions regs. Those regs are not "fixed". In my enhanced emissions zone, it's based on the number of emissions calculated on registered vehicles. As we get more vehicles, however clean by todays standards, we have more pollution in tons generated ...hence the spec's are tightened to "make room" for those new/added units.

It's not THAT big a deal. By all means use SL rated oils and be happy and feel secure.

I don't trust government either ..but it's not like there's no need to do this for the largest global rolling fleet in human history.
 
Just got back from Wally World.

Supertech (walmart brand) 15-40 industrial is all about the API SL rating. No SM to be found anywhere, Also recommended for diesel and farm use.

At $8 gallon, this is what I will be switching all my 4.0's over to. We also know it's decent oil as it is commonly recommended for use with auto-rx applications due to the lack of "energy-conserving" rating, this from BITOG and the auto-rx forum itself.

As long as they keep stocking this stuff, I will be happy.

I have also found that Valuecraft 10-40 (sold at autozone) is also SL rated, no SM anywhere. This is similar to the coastal and is a warren unilube product.

Also advanced auto brand oil in 10-40 and 20-50 is SL rated only still....the 10-30 is SM.

That gives us a variety of safe, cheap, but somewhat quality dino oils. HTH.
 
The 4.0/2.5 is most versatile in oil selection. Anything from 30-50 weight works. There's no economy component to this tractor engine ...which is probably tied to it's, almost diesel like, power development. Although the torque and hp curves do climb, the majority of the torque is available around 1800 rpm. XJ's can manage 25 if they aren't lugging heavy meats ...but my Wranglers <shrug> 19 is great.

Those in the colder climates, that don't want to use synths, can often find HDEO 10w-30 oils at TSC and other type of farm/fleet type outlets.

About the best bang for the buck, by far, if you're a synth user ..is Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 ($16/gallon at Wally World). Just about as bulletproof as Delvac 1/M1 TurboDiesel. Easily a 10k oil drain ...even for a 4 season climate and over 1 year in service (assuming you don't have too many other issues). This I've done personally in my 2.5 TJ and the oil was solid after 13 months/9k miles, according to UOA. I did have higher Fe shedding due to fuel dilution ..but the oil was still suitable for continued use.
 
geeaea said:
About the best bang for the buck, by far, if you're a synth user ..is Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 ($16/gallon at Wally World).

I could not agree more. I just switched mine at 90k. My CTD Dodge gets it ... my JK gets it as well. Just have to get used to the Rotella smell ... aka Rosmella :) So far, no visible increase in crying from the motor. Oil pressures stay where they are supposed to and Id swear the temp gauge is hair lower ... who knows.

As i said earlier, I tend to get worked up pretty bad ... and you guys have definitely got the blood pressure up ... between oil and cracked heads, I'm almost ready to sell the XJ.
 
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