Yeah, I figured as much as far as planning on destroying the adapter. I may call the last local yard and see if they still have any XJs around.
The Infamous Oil Filter Adapter
- Thread starter MadKraken
- Start date
Yeah, I figured as much as far as planning on destroying the adapter. I may call the last local yard and see if they still have any XJs around.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Welding a 1/2" nut(3/4" hex) would be your best bet, if you have the space. It would be a one shot deal though as your are sure to destroy the o-rings. No worries with using a welder as the fuel lines are on the drivers side.
Yeah, I know where the fuel lines are I just didn't know about welding right on the engine like that and with the presence of oil/flammability. I have no experience welding, but my brother has a welder and is good with it.
I thought of another possible idea...cutting a large slot in the head at the right angle with a dremel... I figured if I took a wide piece of solid steel and fashioned some kind of "L" shape out of it that I could fit it in the slot to break it free. I ordered a used adapter off ebay expecting that one way or another my current adapter may get ruined.
I may not even attempt this again until spring. I'm tired of waiting til 11 or so for it to warm up now that winter is about here.
- Location
- San Diego
Agree with RCP. Welding a nut on will probably be your best bet. I wouldn't grind a slot in in, you risk weakening the bolt and could break off only a part of it. If that happens, you'd have to destroy the adapter in order to remove it.
If you need tips on welding on bolts to remove them, check out this guy on YouTube. He's got a lot of great advice!
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I would say that anything that's not hardened would fail. You also do not want to try to remove it with torque alone, but with a impact from a hammer while applying full pressure to "break" it loose. A great way on a good bolt would be to drill a hole in the frame to get a impact wrench and extension to pass thru!
Yeah, it will definitely be an impact hit the next time I try it. That's what happened in the first place, I had a slow torque pull on it and that damn head didn't stand a chance considering how tight that thing is torqued... must be 150-200 ft pounds!
I'll consult my brother on welding a nut on the bolt...I'll show him the vids that JonnyCat63 posted.
I do have a used adapter on the way so if it comes to that...then so be it. This project holds the record for most money spent on tools for the job and extra parts.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
True. For general information remember that the crow's foot needs to be at 90* to the torque wrench to be accurate. My MJ has a hex head on it instead of the torx used by Chrysler.
Well, I'm really hoping someone has an idea of how to approach this mess of a situation at this point. I tried a T60 and the head is definitely rounded out/useless. I bought a huge pair of channel locks in hopes of getting on the edge of the bolt, but due to the motor mount I could not even get close to hoping to get it clamped in. The seal is leaking more and I would really like to find a way to get this replaced. I have a new housing and bolt so I am ready to cut out the old one if necessary. I had a mechanic of "40" years attempt to remove it and all he did was bust up the housing with misplaced chisel hits.
I tried to get my dremel into that location, but the only cut it seems I could make would be perpendicular to the head of the bolt. I had hoped of someway of cutting apart the housing around the head and then getting a pipe wrench on it.
I do not have access to nor the ability to weld a big nut on it as some have suggested. I'm attaching a picture for anyone not familiar who may have a creative idea. How in the world can I even cut apart the housing at this point with such limited space?
https://ibb.co/JHJ8t4R
I tried to get my dremel into that location, but the only cut it seems I could make would be perpendicular to the head of the bolt. I had hoped of someway of cutting apart the housing around the head and then getting a pipe wrench on it.
I do not have access to nor the ability to weld a big nut on it as some have suggested. I'm attaching a picture for anyone not familiar who may have a creative idea. How in the world can I even cut apart the housing at this point with such limited space?
https://ibb.co/JHJ8t4R
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
@nin773
I would go with a fresh Torx, a long pattern 6 point box end wrench to turn it with. Cheater bar if needed. Take a prybar and apply force to keep the Torx seated while you turn the wrench assembly. You may need to place a block behind the prybar to get it to reach the end of the Torx bit. A second person with a BFH added to the mix may help.
I would go with a fresh Torx, a long pattern 6 point box end wrench to turn it with. Cheater bar if needed. Take a prybar and apply force to keep the Torx seated while you turn the wrench assembly. You may need to place a block behind the prybar to get it to reach the end of the Torx bit. A second person with a BFH added to the mix may help.
I'm past the point of no return with what used to be a "torx" pattern in the head of the bolt. Last attempt this morning confirmed that since I used a go thru ratchet, brand new T60, wedge between the unibody and ratchet and about a 3 foot pipe on the ratchet handle. Smacked with hammer...no good...the head of the bolt is hopelessly rounded out confirmed by checking with a mirror.
I am now looking for the best approach at cutting the head of the bolt off or cutting the housing ...cutting SOMETHING just so I can get some kind of grip on that bolt to get it out. I see no way in the world to get this thing out any other way since the chisel/hammer method has been used on the edge of the bolt with no luck and the head is stripped beyond oblivion.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Gotcha.
Right angle die grinder with a cutoff wheel would be my next move. Once the head is off there is plenty to bite on with a pipe (or similar) wrench. That is not to say that there is going to be room/access for the wrench.
Before you start cutting you may want to consider having someone weld a nut on the thing. Once you get to cutting you MAY lose that option.
Right angle die grinder with a cutoff wheel would be my next move. Once the head is off there is plenty to bite on with a pipe (or similar) wrench. That is not to say that there is going to be room/access for the wrench.
Before you start cutting you may want to consider having someone weld a nut on the thing. Once you get to cutting you MAY lose that option.
Once the head is off, would you be able to wrangle the housing off? If not, I'm not seeing how I could get a wrench on the bolt.
My brother does some welding so I might see if sometime he could come over to do it. I kind of asked him about it before but he wasn't sure about the limited area to work in.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Yes.
Personally I would use my stick welder. Mig mostly limits you two only two sides of the bolt because of the gun. I would use a tall nut like many of those on axle "U" bolts.
If you have the time, give some others a chance to chime in.
Good luck with things.
Nice! I will be SO HAPPY once that $*&&@!!! housing is off and I can get that bolt out! My brother definitely uses a mig welder, not even sure if he has a stick. That's good info, and I definitely have some of those tall nuts you mentioned. I have time, I've been fighting it for a year LOL!
- Location
- In a strange land
Are you sure the housing would have enough clearance to get over the rest of the bolt before it met the frame?
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
I DID NOT take that into consideration. Hopefully @nin773 checks back on this thread...or goes the welding route. I'm trying now to remember how much room there was to spare when I removed the bole itself. I think I pulled the bolt out after removing the housing. :doh:
Thanks Tom.
- Location
- In a strange land
Just going off recall, it seems to me the housing is taller/thicker than the space available in which to fit a bit.
A bit of measuring should answer the question for the poor guy trying to win this fight.
My vote is for the welder. If you cut the head off the bolt and the housing won't clear the remainder of the bolt it is going to be a PITA going forward because you will no longer have anything substantial to which to weld a nut, nor will you have a good way to hold the housing still while trying to cut it apart to remove it.
A bit of measuring should answer the question for the poor guy trying to win this fight.
My vote is for the welder. If you cut the head off the bolt and the housing won't clear the remainder of the bolt it is going to be a PITA going forward because you will no longer have anything substantial to which to weld a nut, nor will you have a good way to hold the housing still while trying to cut it apart to remove it.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
I did mention that part.
The MJ was a standard hex head bolt. I have yet to do the XJ. I do have an old flat (pry) bar and Torx bit I'm going to weld up for when I do.lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
You want a pipe wrench, not channel locks. A pipe wrench bites harder as you apply more force. Worse case, grab both the bolt head and the body of the adapter and you shear off the roll pin that keeps the adapter from turning.
That's why I asked about getting the housing off ...didn't really SEEM like there would be enough room to get it off even with the head of the bolt gone. I texted my brother a couple pics and asked about welding a nut on it. I'll definitely try that route if possible. Honestly, I figured if cutting was involved it was going to be an absolute MESS with having to hack it apart in pieces to get it off to expose enough of the bolt to grab on to.
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