these channel locks were actually 21", here is the link: https://www.harborfreight.com/21-in-s-jaw-quick-adjust-pliers-wrench-59837.html It was a real nice idea if that damn motor mount wasn't there!
The Infamous Oil Filter Adapter
- Thread starter MadKraken
- Start date
Ha! at this point if I had a plasma cutter the whole jeep would be in half!!!
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Wire welding a nut on the head would make sense as the next step.
TLDR version: JB Weld Steel Stik saved my ass, job is finally done.
I'm back and...hell froze over and a miracle happened...at the same time LOL!
Since my brother still wasn't comfortable with his welding skills I decided to give it one more shot yesterday. At one point I had read about some kind of gel or grease with metal filings in it that was supposed to give the bit some kind of grip when you were working with a stripped or rounded out bolt. This got me thinking about JB weld steel stik. I thought that if I could maybe clean out the head and then JB weld the bit in, it just MIGHT give it enough grip for 1 or 2 more pulls. I took a curved pick tool and mirror and scratched out as much rust from the bolt head as possible. I then wire brushed it. I put a little bead of the steel stik putty on the end of the bolt and then pushed it into the head. I packed as much as I could all around the edges of the bit trying to push it down into the bolt head. After that set up, I made another ring around the bit.
It's supposed to fully cure in 1 hour, but I gave it an hour and a half to be sure. I put a 12mm box end wrench on it and wedged some wood blocks between the frame and the head of the bit. Got under it and gave it hell with a cheater bar...no good... wrench bent. THIS GAVE ME HOPE though becuase instead of stripping/flying out of the head, it meant I had another shot. Did the same thing again with a second wrench...bent again!
At this point, the edge of the JB weld was cracked free and the bit had a TINY bit of play in it...I figured I had one chance left. I took an old Craftsman gear wrench that I bought when Sears was still around and cut the open end off as a final sacrifice. This time, I went at it from the top. I had removed the coolant overflow bottle and had the AC line zip tied out of the way on the shock bolt. I ratcheted the wrench as much as I could towards the front, put the cheater pipe on and said a final prayer. I pushed that mother f'er as hard as I could towards the back of the vehicle and heard a big "crack"!!! At last...after almost a year later and maybe 8 attempts at this, that motherF***ing c***su*ki*g POS broke free!!!
Unbelievable, but I'm attaching pictures for proof. This had to be one of the worst jobs I've ever done on any vehicle. The only 2 other things that came close were replacing the heater core on a different 99 and replacing the exhaust manifold on this one 2 years ago.
I'm back and...hell froze over and a miracle happened...at the same time LOL!
Since my brother still wasn't comfortable with his welding skills I decided to give it one more shot yesterday. At one point I had read about some kind of gel or grease with metal filings in it that was supposed to give the bit some kind of grip when you were working with a stripped or rounded out bolt. This got me thinking about JB weld steel stik. I thought that if I could maybe clean out the head and then JB weld the bit in, it just MIGHT give it enough grip for 1 or 2 more pulls. I took a curved pick tool and mirror and scratched out as much rust from the bolt head as possible. I then wire brushed it. I put a little bead of the steel stik putty on the end of the bolt and then pushed it into the head. I packed as much as I could all around the edges of the bit trying to push it down into the bolt head. After that set up, I made another ring around the bit.
It's supposed to fully cure in 1 hour, but I gave it an hour and a half to be sure. I put a 12mm box end wrench on it and wedged some wood blocks between the frame and the head of the bit. Got under it and gave it hell with a cheater bar...no good... wrench bent. THIS GAVE ME HOPE though becuase instead of stripping/flying out of the head, it meant I had another shot. Did the same thing again with a second wrench...bent again!
At this point, the edge of the JB weld was cracked free and the bit had a TINY bit of play in it...I figured I had one chance left. I took an old Craftsman gear wrench that I bought when Sears was still around and cut the open end off as a final sacrifice. This time, I went at it from the top. I had removed the coolant overflow bottle and had the AC line zip tied out of the way on the shock bolt. I ratcheted the wrench as much as I could towards the front, put the cheater pipe on and said a final prayer. I pushed that mother f'er as hard as I could towards the back of the vehicle and heard a big "crack"!!! At last...after almost a year later and maybe 8 attempts at this, that motherF***ing c***su*ki*g POS broke free!!!
Unbelievable, but I'm attaching pictures for proof. This had to be one of the worst jobs I've ever done on any vehicle. The only 2 other things that came close were replacing the heater core on a different 99 and replacing the exhaust manifold on this one 2 years ago.
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
The pictures also highlight why you can't just cut the bolt head and save the adapter. That extra lip will still hold it in place.
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
There is a lip further down the bolt inside the adapter. Even if you chopped off the top off the bolt, that will still prevent pulling the adapter off.
- Location
- In a strange land
TLDR version: JB Weld Steel Stik saved my ass, job is finally done.
I'm back and...hell froze over and a miracle happened...at the same time LOL!
Since my brother still wasn't comfortable with his welding skills I decided to give it one more shot yesterday. At one point I had read about some kind of gel or grease with metal filings in it that was supposed to give the bit some kind of grip when you were working with a stripped or rounded out bolt. This got me thinking about JB weld steel stik. I thought that if I could maybe clean out the head and then JB weld the bit in, it just MIGHT give it enough grip for 1 or 2 more pulls. I took a curved pick tool and mirror and scratched out as much rust from the bolt head as possible. I then wire brushed it. I put a little bead of the steel stik putty on the end of the bolt and then pushed it into the head. I packed as much as I could all around the edges of the bit trying to push it down into the bolt head. After that set up, I made another ring around the bit.
It's supposed to fully cure in 1 hour, but I gave it an hour and a half to be sure. I put a 12mm box end wrench on it and wedged some wood blocks between the frame and the head of the bit. Got under it and gave it hell with a cheater bar...no good... wrench bent. THIS GAVE ME HOPE though becuase instead of stripping/flying out of the head, it meant I had another shot. Did the same thing again with a second wrench...bent again!
At this point, the edge of the JB weld was cracked free and the bit had a TINY bit of play in it...I figured I had one chance left. I took an old Craftsman gear wrench that I bought when Sears was still around and cut the open end off as a final sacrifice. This time, I went at it from the top. I had removed the coolant overflow bottle and had the AC line zip tied out of the way on the shock bolt. I ratcheted the wrench as much as I could towards the front, put the cheater pipe on and said a final prayer. I pushed that mother f'er as hard as I could towards the back of the vehicle and heard a big "crack"!!! At last...after almost a year later and maybe 8 attempts at this, that motherF***ing c***su*ki*g POS broke free!!!
Unbelievable, but I'm attaching pictures for proof. This had to be one of the worst jobs I've ever done on any vehicle. The only 2 other things that came close were replacing the heater core on a different 99 and replacing the exhaust manifold on this one 2 years ago.
Congratulations on a hard earned victory.
That was a good solution.
Thanks! Yeah, when I finally heard that damn thing crack free it was amazing! I'll bet I spent close to $200 on parts and tools over the last year to get this job done.
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