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i was able to kill timken unit bearings just as fast as the el cheapo ones on amazon, so they are what i buy now. i think they were under $40 each shipped.

i subscribe to the gordo-smasho driving style, & yes, i did grenade the 30 spine arb carrier, as well as a couple sets of 4.88's.
i think the 30 spline is stronger than the 27 spline. makes sense, right?
only benefit to using 27 spline is cheap trail spares.

These guys?

http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Choice-...fkmr0&keywords=Timken+HA597449#productDetails

The price is right.

What size tires are you running with those bearings and all the 30 spline carnage?



Pat. Sounds like a killer setup. But what vehicle did you get the rotors off of?
 
Interesting facts. I believe that they all originate from the same 2 factories, but I can't imagine they are all made to the exact same specifications.

If you can assure me that I will be getting true ten factory shafts, in a ten factory box, with a ten factory part number stamped in them, and a ten year warranty backed up by ten factory, shipped to my door for $500 I will gladly buy them from you. But if they are just going to be "any other shaft because they are all the same" then I will purchase from a vendor who can assure me that I am actually buying the same shafts they are selling me.

Not trying to be a dick or stir stuff up or anything. It's just that a lot of the claims you are making don't seem to match other information I have been getting from friends with first hand experience.

There was one other very special individual here that asked for one special priced thing that was very old ad. I replied with a email saying I will give him xyz for xxx$ and he said ok. I email a invoice over to 100% ALL of my customers and on that invoice is exact part number, full description with brand name and fitment etc. He got that. you physically have to click pay on that invoice, to pay it. He did that. They well you can read the rest. He was special. Very..

I NEVER have put or mis lead anyone here or else where.

And as for making them not to the same specs. I will say this one more time. They are all the same when talking about what factory/company X or what company y, Mass produced shafts that are shipped in Large crates to companys to put in there boxes. Thats why shafts are so cheap. They are mass produced to one "spec" and then sold to those that had a order on hand or next order. Not rocket science here and sorry if it hurts anyones ego that they wanted some special ubertonium high grade special high strength black kydium coated double throw me down D30 shaft, but got the same thing as joe blow got in his USA standard box... got 1/2 the price.

Reason for price differences is typically only due to warranty length and greed.. Have to assume one shaft breakage and shipping that shaft to a customer, say every 4 years. So, have to account for that added cost when pricing longer warranty options.

I will bow out now. I search my name every week to see what people are saying. And to help those that dont know, know. If I can.
 
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Listen to Robert. He knows his stuff and is very transparent about everything. Maybe to much so, sometimes the truth sounds odd when we are led to believe another thing for so long. Just think about it and it will make sense.
 
There was one other very special individual here that asked for one special priced thing that was very old ad. I replied with a email saying I will give him xyz for xxx$ and he said ok. I email a invoice over to 100% ALL of my customers and on that invoice is exact part number, full description with brand name and fitment etc. He got that. you physically have to click pay on that invoice, to pay it. He did that. They well you can read the rest. He was special. Very..

I NEVER have put or mis lead anyone here or else where.

And as for making them not to the same specs. I will say this one more time. They are all the same when talking about what factory/company X or what company y, Mass produced shafts that are shipped in Large crates to companys to put in there boxes. Thats why shafts are so cheap. They are mass produced to one "spec" and then sold to those that had a order on hand or next order. Not rocket science here and sorry if it hurts anyones ego that they wanted some special ubertonium high grade special high strength black kydium coated double throw me down D30 shaft, but got the same thing as joe blow got in his USA standard box... got 1/2 the price.

Reason for price differences is typically only due to warranty length and greed.. Have to assume one shaft breakage and shipping that shaft to a customer, say every 4 years. So, have to account for that added cost when pricing longer warranty options.

I will bow out now. I search my name every week to see what people are saying. And to help those that dont know, know. If I can.

Thanks for the response Robert. I appreciate the input.
 
Zip locker and compressor went out today.
Also ordered a set of motive 4.88 gears off amazon today.


WJ axle complete with diff cover, tie rod, brakes and brackets - $100
Synergy WJ ball joints all around - $free
2001 XJ/TJ Timken unit bearings (Amazon) - $149.82
JKS knuckle spacer (Amazon) (JFO was out of stock) - $47.02
27 Spline Yukon Zip Locker and compressor (Daves Offroad) - $745
Motive 4.88 Ring and Pinion (Amazon) - $132.64


Does anybody in the Sacramento area have experience setting up gears? I'm confident I can set them up but wouldn't mind having someone looking over my shoulder while I install them. Would anybody be willing to help? Wouldn't mind throwing the axle in the back of my truck and driving somewhere if somebody out of town is interested in lending a hand.
 
Wait not 30 spline? I thought you decided 30 yesterday

Decided to stay with 27. I would like to do trails like the dusy and trips to places like Moab and Colorado and would like to be able to bring spares with me if I want to, or atleast be able to find someone with extras or hit up a junkyard to get me out of a bind. I'd hate to drive all the way to moab and break a 30 spline shaft on the first day of a week long trip and be out of luck the whole weekend. That was the deciding factor, aside from making the gearset the weak point.
 
I can do gears but at the rate of travel for work and wheeling and wrenching I already have lined up it would be January - March at the earliest.
 
Just over a year ago I bought them. Now it's 44$ more.

Shop around but that was the best deal at the time. And good quality this far

Did you re drill the rotors or did you rock the 5x5.5?
 
yep use the 99+ hubs and all you have to do it weld on the JKS spacer if you use WJ rotors.

I did the IRO pre drilled rotors, cross drilled and slotted, 150$ shipped I think ?
totally worth it to be bolt up.

I spent a ton of money doing my WJ swap. Norcal chris runs that axle now.
 
^^ my WJ rotors actually look to be in salvageable shape. I think I might try to clean them up and then drill them myself to 5x4.5. Doesn't seem too hard. We will see when I get there though.


I've been getting some goodies in the mail. Heres a few of them:


Locker and compressor



4.88 Motive gears



New hubs



The JKS spacers and synergy ball joints also came in. Still waiting on the install kit for the 30.

I also ordered some Ten Factory shafts the other day. Should be here Thursday.

I'm so stoked to be so close to putting it back together. Hoping to make some good progress on the heep tomorrow during the day. The axle is already pulled out and fully disassembled, so I might move on to the crossmember build or the tcase clocking.
 
Friggin rad... ! I need to full case locker my turdy
Just dont wanna end up with some cheese looking rotors like one of mine :D

They sell plastic/paper patterns for marking them. Tim burns used them after I messed up on one. Originally I just stacked an old rotor. But it's hard to line up the "hats" on the rotors since they differ.
 
Friggin rad... ! I need to full case locker my turdy
Just dont wanna end up with some cheese looking rotors like one of mine :D

They sell plastic/paper patterns for marking them. Tim burns used them after I messed up on one. Originally I just stacked an old rotor. But it's hard to line up the "hats" on the rotors since they differ.

I was thinking of pressing the studs out of an old hub and using that to transfer the pattern over. I'll play around with it and see what I can figure out. Otherwise I'll do a brake kit like the one you posted.
 
I'm in the middle of the process of clocking my np231 and as expected am having floor clearance issues. I recall somebody talking about cutting the cast corner off of the side of the tcase. Can anybody confirm if I can or cannot cut this chunk of aluminum off? A Google search did me no good.

It's this piece.

 
kevin stoked to see all the cool parts man. glad you are dialing it in ! as for the tcase, how structural does that seem ? seems like you could grind it down or cut it off looking at it.
 
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