My "Hero" Blog

[Jeep450r]

I didn't know you could clock a tcase on an AX15 at all?

You can't drill the transmission out to clock it. I got a clocking ring for it.

kevin stoked to see all the cool parts man. glad you are dialing it in ! as for the tcase, how structural does that seem ? seems like you could grind it down or cut it off looking at it.

Thanks Jon, I'm stoked to be getting it dialed.

It does have some ribbing going to it, which leads me to believe it has structural integrity to it. I just remember hearing talk about this tab before but can't remember what the final verdict was - to cut or not to cut.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

You can't drill the transmission out to clock it. I got a clocking ring for it.



Thanks Jon, I'm stoked to be getting it dialed.

It does have some ribbing going to it, which leads me to believe it has structural integrity to it. I just remember hearing talk about this tab before but can't remember what the final verdict was - to cut or not to cut.

stoked to see you keeping the 30. you will be happy. you will probably get 3-5 years out of this setup.

as for the tcase, how much can that little nub really be doing? I say massage the floor with a sledge and at least grind that nub down to smooth it out and bring it down even 1/4"

 

[Boostwerks.com]

FWIW, I cut that protuberance off of mine with no issues.

 

[Jeep450r]

stoked to see you keeping the 30. you will be happy. you will probably get 3-5 years out of this setup.

as for the tcase, how much can that little nub really be doing? I say massage the floor with a sledge and at least grind that nub down to smooth it out and bring it down even 1/4"

Me too. I'm hoping to get a few years out of it. I'm not ready to chop the beast up yet for tons.

FWIW, I cut that protuberance off of mine with no issues.

Thanks for the input bud. After hearing this and talking with Gordon, I am confident that I have enough people to blame if things hit the fan

I'll be chopping that nub off in about an hour.


Oh and I got another box of goodies today!

 

[Jeep450r]

Cut er off




Fits like a glove now




And nothing hangs down below the frame rails except the exhaust, which is hanging down further than normal.



Now i need to figure out how to mount the transmission. My original plan was to use a Chevy style urethane mount, but I'm having some packaging issues. I might end up using a single Ruffstuff poly bushing turned perpendicular to the jeep and mounted to the crossmember and transmission due to space constraints.

 

[Jeep450r]

So yesterday I installed the Cutthroat4x4 clocking ring on the np231. The ring is 3/8" thick, so when installed, it pushes the tcase away from the transmission by 3/8".

Now, I'm having an issue with the sealing surface at the transmission output shaft/tcase input. On the transmission there is a seal that rides on the outer surface of the transfer case input shaft. Before the clocking ring was installed, the seal rode just over 3/8" away from the end of the tcase input. Now that the case is spaced away 3/8", the seal barely has any shaft surface to seal against, if any at all because it is rigt at the end/edge of the shaft. With that said, my trans/tcase is leaking from the mating surface between them. So I'm assuming that this said seal is not in contact with the sealing surface on the tcase input shaft

Has anybody had a similar issue? Any proposed fixes?

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Contact the vendor? Shouldnt the clocking ring have a second seaing surface ? Do you have to rtv the clocking ring on?

 

[XJ_Rudolph]

I think then the area between the tcase and tranny is going to fill up with tranny fluid if the shaft isnt sealed but the clocking ring is

 

[#S194]

Do you still have enough spline engagement between the t case and transmission? If so, the only thing I can think of is to RTV the weep hole in the adapter between the transmission and t case. The cavity will fill with oil but wont leak.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

I meant a inner seal, as if the clocking ring where to taper down to say a 2" ID to fit a second output seal. I don't see any negatives from sealing the ring to the tranny.

Perhaps you damaged the tranny output seal?

 

[Jeep450r]

Contact the vendor? Shouldnt the clocking ring have a second seaing surface ? Do you have to rtv the clocking ring on?

Nope, the only sealing surface is the seal on the transmission.

Do you still have enough spline engagement between the t case and transmission? If so, the only thing I can think of is to RTV the weep hole in the adapter between the transmission and t case. The cavity will fill with oil but wont leak.

Thats not a bad idea for a quick fix. I really dont want to tear the case apart to swap input shafts

I meant a inner seal, as if the clocking ring where to taper down to say a 2" ID to fit a second output seal. I don't see any negatives from sealing the ring to the tranny.

Perhaps you damaged the tranny output seal?

Ill check the tranny output seal later today.


I did some poking around the interwebs and found that there is such a thing as a seal extender. It looks like it is something that slides over the O.D. of the tcase input shaft and is longer that the input shaft itself so that it reaches further into the transmission output seal.

They are called Speedi-Sleeves and the part number is SKF 99193. They are often used to fix bad/torn up sealing surfaces with a new clean surface, but apparently they serve as an extended sealing surface as well.

http://www.amazon.com/SKF-99193-Speedi-Sleeves/dp/B000EPR7GQ

I might give this a shot. Theyre stocked at the local NAPA too.

 

[XJ_Rudolph]

Looks like a solid option bro!

 

[GordoSmasho]

that looks like a very good option man. Really stoked to see what you come up with on a mount for the trans. I am heading down the same path.

 

[Jeep450r]

Started on my transmission crossmember between classes. Here's how far I got. I need to notch it to clear the exhaust, but it looks like my front tcase output/yoke might clear without even notching the crossmember. More to come tonight if all goes well.

 

[indeepwithajeep]

Does the in route jig help the front driveline angles after being clocked. Did you have to bend the metal on the chassis much? Also what kind of box tubing for the crossmember? How much do you think it raised up the assembly? Any plans on making skids for the exposed bolts?

I've thought about buying the jig where you just drill the holes so I'm wondering if there is a benefit to the spacing. I've thought about making a crossmember myself and thought about doing 2.5x1" box, and some 45 degree risers with a access hole on the sides.

 

[Jeep450r]

Does the in route jig help the front driveline angles after being clocked. Did you have to bend the metal on the chassis much? Also what kind of box tubing for the crossmember? How much do you think it raised up the assembly? Any plans on making skids for the exposed bolts?

I've thought about buying the jig where you just drill the holes so I'm wondering if there is a benefit to the spacing. I've thought about making a crossmember myself and thought about doing 2.5x1" box, and some 45 degree risers with a access hole on the sides.

I don't think there is any benefit to spacing. I just couldn't use the jig because there isn't enough meat on the back of the ax15 trans to drill new holes (that's the Internet rumor atleast - some say otherwise). I had to hammer the trans tunnel up a good bit. Not sure how to put a number on 'how much' but it was an inch or three. The crossmember is 2x4x.25" box. I don't know how much it raised the assembly, but I don't think it was much if at all. No plans for skids on the bolts. Most likely going to run quality grade 8 bolts and replace them as they deform just as I have been for the past 5 years (but those were grade 2 China's).

Sounds like a good plan for your crossmember. The main reason I have such heavy material for mine is because I never want it to bend, and I will be mounting my 3 link suspension off of it.

 

[GordoSmasho]

I wallowed teh holes to flip my 231 doubler before i swapped in the trans. I remember having plenty of meat all the way around the flange on my ax15. Possible not all are created equal.

I was thinking about using some washers for the crossmember bolt heads. Or recessing them. I added a bunch of 1/2" nuts to the backside of my stiffeners when i added them. The are all the way down the frame on bothe sides. Should be able to do a nice flat belly plate with them and have plenty to tie into.

 

[Jeep450r]

Good to know. I just took the internets word for it. I'll take a look when I drop the tcase.

Is there any problem with running hiems on the drag link, and TREs on the tie rod? I need to use offset TREs to keep my tie rod from hitting my diff cover. I was going to buy tres for the knuckle, but Id rather use the hiems I have sitting on the workbench than drop another $100 on new TREs. Does anybody forsee an issue?

 

[blondejoncherokee]

I don't know why that would be an issue at all.

the only issue I could see would be not being able to carry one set of heims for all steering spares, but thats almost a non-issue really.

 

[831_xj]

NorCal Chris runs them that way I believe.