My "Hero" Blog

Good to know. I just took the internets word for it. I'll take a look when I drop the tcase.

Is there any problem with running hiems on the drag link, and TREs on the tie rod? I need to use offset TREs to keep my tie rod from hitting my diff cover. I was going to buy tres for the knuckle, but Id rather use the hiems I have sitting on the workbench than drop another $100 on new TREs. Does anybody forsee an issue?

You can put bends in the tie rod, similar to IRO, for clearance. Otherwise, use offset TRE, or depending on diff cover modify the diff cover.
 
I thought I asked it before but I can't find it.. What do you guys reccomend for my upper control arm for the 3 link? I have 7/8" heims already that I can use with a 1.5" .25 wall link. Or should I buy another set of 1.25" hiems and use 2" or 1.75 dom? It's just a dana 30 with eventually 35s. Are the 1.25" heims really worth it in my application?
 
If you have the 7/8" heims, run them. If you end up wearing them out prematurely, then consider stepping up? Some people claim that the 1.25" heims are overkill for links anyways, so I do not see an issue.
 
7/8" are plenty for the upper, we ran them on the wj uppers and lowers in the rear when it was still short arms and the aluminium 44. Beetle the axle shafts, spider gears, etc and never had a problem with the 7/8" ends. The lowers were 2" 3/8" wall though.
 
I am running 7/8x7/8 heims on 1.5" .250 wall tube for my upper link.
It wont see rocks. Should be more than enough as far as strength. I used a 2" wide trackbar mount at the frame and cut it down short. Makes clearing exhaust , frame rails, and lower links way easier with 1.5 over 2".
7/8 heims are dirt cheap compared to 1.25".


Ive given up on giving a crap about getting miles out of heims. I have not really had luck with any heims, but it does seem the FK JMX last longer, but after the ruffstuff 17% off weekends the FK heims are about 4X more expensive after shipping versus picking up in person at RS. so I don't know. I don't mind swapping all heims all at once every so often anymore.

I have some fk jmx and a bunch of ruffstuff heims now.
I just stock up on heims when RS has big 17% or 20% off sales now and occasionally buy FK but really for the trackbar and frame side upper link.

My vote goes to 2" .250 wal dom for the lowers , poly at thr frame , teraflex or emf joints at the axle, and 7/8 ruffstuff heims for the upper link.
 
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it seems with poly and one side for the lowers is not a bad idea, as long as the upper is all hard joints.

poly is cheaper to replace, and also seems to be a little easier for something driven to the trails. I love these teraflex joints at the axle side that the previous owner put on here. tons of shank and super beefy. rebuildable. I would probably go EMF next time.
 
7/8" uppers it is. I thought 1.25" heims were overkill up there.

I finished the crossmember and trans mount today, minus a few mounting holes.









Now to make a skid plate for the transfer case.

I started playing with link locations today as well. It looks like it will go together pretty smoothly, and I'm getting really excited about it!
 
Me too. You might have to notch that crossmmember . Ive had to on every crossmember ive built
 
Yeah that was one of my concerns. How close can I safely get the exhaust to the side of the transmission and transfer case? That will be the biggest factor in my exhaust routing.
 
Its more floor to crossmember and clearing your upper link. not side to side you have to worry about . It should fit just fine i hope bwtween the trans and frame.
 
The inner shaft is smaller diameter ? Wierd. It should fit
 
Heads up I'm doing axle seals up front. Thought the seal was bad. But the ten factory inner doesn't even fit snug in the axle seal.

This will be as simple as taking measurements, and either searching yourself, or go to your local Carquest/AAP, Napa, etc and give them the info and have them find a seal that works best.
 
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