- Location
- Patterson, Ca
Never had a problem on the wj, tighten them down and you are good to go.
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- Thread starter Jeep450r
- Start date
Thanks the input guys. I'm going to give RHT heims a shot all the way around. Can't hurt really.
Not much of an update but I brought my bender back up to Sacramento and mounted it in the garage last night.
Heading down to pleasanton tonight to grab 30' of tube and maybe soon I'll end up bending some tube doors.
Not much of an update but I brought my bender back up to Sacramento and mounted it in the garage last night.
Heading down to pleasanton tonight to grab 30' of tube and maybe soon I'll end up bending some tube doors.
XJ_Rudolph
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pleasanton, CA
Ughhh i need to buy a tube bender!! Your making me jelly over here hahaha
So I heard a rumor that Top Gear was wheeling the rubicon this weekend, so my friends and I decided to try to go find them and photobomb some of their filming. Slapped the jeep together and hit the trail at 11pm like usual. The moment I put it in 4x4 the front end started popping when I would turn. Sounds like the Aussie locker is skipping. We decided to try to make it to spider lake anyway. I got to the far side of the granite bowl and the blew a 30 shaft somehow. I was just making a left hand turn and it bound up and just exploded. It pushed the ball joints out a bit and bent/beat up the knuckle and bolts.
That's broken shaft/ujoint number 4 or 5.
Needless to say, we never caught up with the Top Gear crew lol
I'm sick of breaking every freaking trip. Especially stupid stuff like shafts. Not sure what to do at this point. Dump more money into the dana 30 with a new locker and chromo shafts and fix whatever else may be wrong in the diff? Build something else? The 8.25 is due for a rebuild because it's howling like mad. So both front and rear need to be addressed. Thoughts?
That's broken shaft/ujoint number 4 or 5.
Needless to say, we never caught up with the Top Gear crew lol
I'm sick of breaking every freaking trip. Especially stupid stuff like shafts. Not sure what to do at this point. Dump more money into the dana 30 with a new locker and chromo shafts and fix whatever else may be wrong in the diff? Build something else? The 8.25 is due for a rebuild because it's howling like mad. So both front and rear need to be addressed. Thoughts?
Last edited:
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Chromos and a locker. Rebuild both front and rear. You should be set on 33s.
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
This should work for you with 33's ,right? And it would give you some strength in the front and stop the breakage.
XJ_Rudolph
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pleasanton, CA
Just wheel open open 
But if you think your made of gold, get an arb or ox locker. You need something selectable up front.
But if you think your made of gold, get an arb or ox locker. You need something selectable up front.
XJ_Rudolph
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pleasanton, CA
I mean you can always go with some wontons and link right when you get them
I have a 44 and hubs though as well haha
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Full case locker and some chromos would do it up front.
If you are going to rebuild the rear consider getting a full case for the rear as well. A dude on norcal is selling a 8.25 lunchbox for cheap though which is an option
If you are going to rebuild the rear consider getting a full case for the rear as well. A dude on norcal is selling a 8.25 lunchbox for cheap though which is an option
XJ_Rudolph
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pleasanton, CA
yea get rid of that full slip rear diff you got. See if that vender still has the cheep chromo D30 set going on right now. I think he was also selling them for 8.25
knucklehead 61
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cottage Grove, Oregon
shoulda bought my d44 axle package. it was a screaming deal.
I'm looking into the ten-factory front shafts. I really want something with a good company behind the product to back it up. And a friend of mine has them front and rear in his CJ on 35s that he beats the snot out of and they are holding up to his 5.0 v8 and heavy foot just fine. But who here has used those cheap no-name shafts that RWKHaus sells? The price is right but the no name and lack of a solid warranty makes me wonder.
My biggest concern with building the dana 30 is that I am already going to be redoing the front suspension, springs, steering, knuckles etc - a similar amount of work to that of an axle swap. It wouldnt take much more to do a new axle. Especially if I have to regear the 30/8.25 with lockers and chromo shafts.
Just talking out loud, really. I have had multiple friends tell me to keep the 30/8.25 and not swap in other axles. Most of them regret it. It's just hard to talk myself out of upgrading when it's just a bit more work and money.
My biggest concern with building the dana 30 is that I am already going to be redoing the front suspension, springs, steering, knuckles etc - a similar amount of work to that of an axle swap. It wouldnt take much more to do a new axle. Especially if I have to regear the 30/8.25 with lockers and chromo shafts.
Just talking out loud, really. I have had multiple friends tell me to keep the 30/8.25 and not swap in other axles. Most of them regret it. It's just hard to talk myself out of upgrading when it's just a bit more work and money.
XJ_Rudolph
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pleasanton, CA
Bro go with an axle swap, i think its your best option. Try and find something mostly done already internals wise
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
Swap works but sometimes people swap because the axel is used up. If you build you know what you have and how it has been treated and end up with just what you wanted.
30/8.25 works very well with 33's when you lock and chrome them.
30/8.25 works very well with 33's when you lock and chrome them.
Got 2-Low?
You wheel a lot on solid rock where there's not a lot of slippage for the drive train. It helps a ton to be able to kick the t-case in 2-Low, and only engage the front end when you need it. Especially if you have a full time locker up front always fighting your steering. You'd be surprised how little you actually need four wheel drive with just a rear locker. It's another option to consider.
Also, I had an Aussie that produced those same symptoms. I found out I did the two-piece carrier mod instead. :gee:
You wheel a lot on solid rock where there's not a lot of slippage for the drive train. It helps a ton to be able to kick the t-case in 2-Low, and only engage the front end when you need it. Especially if you have a full time locker up front always fighting your steering. You'd be surprised how little you actually need four wheel drive with just a rear locker. It's another option to consider.
Also, I had an Aussie that produced those same symptoms. I found out I did the two-piece carrier mod instead. :gee:
Jbh97009
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Damascus, Oregon
I ran those rwk haus shaft in my 30 for almost a year on 36" iroks, and sold the axles to a guy running 35" bfg's, had a lock right in it since day one (gears/shafts) and he's been beating the crap out of it!
I just didn't want to roll the dice anymore so I went to Dana 44's
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
the rwkhaus shafts are killer man.
they look feel and smell like yukons without the price tag.
I ran them in my hp44 on 36s and 37s, and was able to floor the thing and never once even worried about breaking a shaft
they look feel and smell like yukons without the price tag.
I ran them in my hp44 on 36s and 37s, and was able to floor the thing and never once even worried about breaking a shaft
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