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Dang i coulda sworn i read on pirate that they helped with those two aspects, but then again not everything you read on the internet is true

Both would be true if you had interference issues with a straight shackle hitting the back of the shackle box.

That does kinda suck kev. Looks loke i may be heading with iro. I have some really big shackles for sale.

I would only imagine that you would have the same issue with IRO, or any other spring manufacturer for that matter. I'd be willing to bet that anybody with 35s or less that is bump stopped to stop the tire just before fender contact has a similar problem with leafs inverting. Just very few people pay attention to the spring itself, and very few have issues.
 
I would only imagine that you would have the same issue with IRO, or any other spring manufacturer for that matter. I'd be willing to bet that anybody with 35s or less that is bump stopped to stop the tire just before fender contact has a similar problem with leafs inverting. Just very few people pay attention to the spring itself, and very few have issues.


i will check this weekend, i am still at oem bumps, but my shocks are bumped....at least both were untill one of the shocks broke off before this past weekend and the bump burned off on the exhaust pipe
 
Oh. I wasnt refering to bumpstops. Just lift height. Trying to get away from a massive shackle but not go over 4" lift. Looks like that setup you have is maxed out for height at 3". Unless you have a massive shackle.
 
i will check this weekend, i am still at oem bumps, but my shocks are bumped....at least both were untill one of the shocks broke off before this past weekend and the bump burned off on the exhaust pipe

Id be curious to see. Take a pic of the spring in front of the ubolt plate. That's where it will go the most negative.

Oh. I wasnt refering to bumpstops. Just lift height. Trying to get away from a massive shackle but not go over 4" lift. Looks like that setup you have is maxed out for height at 3". Unless you have a massive shackle.

Oh I see. Yeah I'd have to make a shackle 2" longer for it to be ideal.
 
Id be curious to see. Take a pic of the spring in front of the ubolt plate. That's where it will go the most negative.







Oh I see. Yeah I'd have to make a shackle 2" longer for it to be ideal.


Will do
But if u make your shackle 2in longer, wont it lift ya? Then your going to have to relocate your shackles up. Correct me if im wrong here, leafs arent really my thing lol
 
These be big enough?
46a9a80178878b470d3a50d5daf84cf2.jpg

They are adjustable. But that is the smallest they go.
 
Will do
But if u make your shackle 2in longer, wont it lift ya? Then your going to have to relocate your shackles up. Correct me if im wrong here, leafs arent really my thing lol

Yeah it will. I need another inch of lift.


Gordo what's the length on them eye to eye completely collapsed?
 
8" roughly. But they adjust out to about 10.5" they have been painted black. Have only a few runs on them.

Here they are next to a 1.5" lift shackle
211223b4d3220f854e62392d272fa95b.jpg
 
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In sure they'd work but I might just build a pair for cost sake. Lis I want some sick nasty simple dies in mine.

My CV in the front driveshaft is all bound up. Its toast. Any recommendation on where to get a good rebuild kit? Or a new CV itself?

 
I bet that center yoke is all I need, aside from ujoints. I'll dig into it once it cools down outside. Thanks Aaron.
 
I bet that center yoke is all I need, aside from ujoints. I'll dig into it once it cools down outside. Thanks Aaron.


No problem!!
 
For those of you using hiems in your control arms, are you running one left and one right hiem per link? I've heard rumors that the jam nuts will loosen up pretty quick and some people prefer to run two left or two right hand hiems per link to keep the jam nuts from backing out.

Is there any validity to this? Anybody have experience with this?
 
For those of you using hiems in your control arms, are you running one left and one right hiem per link? I've heard rumors that the jam nuts will loosen up pretty quick and some people prefer to run two left or two right hand hiems per link to keep the jam nuts from backing out.

Is there any validity to this? Anybody have experience with this?

mine never really came loose when I had RS 1.25" heims , although I know folks talk about going to all RHT heims to alleviate this possibly issue.

I prefer the ease of adjustability of LH/RH. You can always tack weld the Jam nuts. I just crank those things down real tight and they never came loose, but then again now I have to use a 4 ft piece of pipe on a wrench to get them loose when I need to adjust them...


the joints on my new red rig have come loose twice already- they are welded poly bushing at one end and LHT teraflex joints at the axle side. I might start tacking them or using blue loctite if it keeps up.
 
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