Asher.mich
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- mi
Nice work. You make me feel ashamed for waiting until the weather warmed up to start working on my Jeep.
My 44/9" full width cherokee build
- Thread starter Gravesdiggerxj
- Start date
Gravesdiggerxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Utah
My street tires have 4.5"-5" of backspacing: so about 79" (outside of tire to outside of tire) in front.
My wheeling tires have 3.5" of backspacing: so about 83" (outside of tire to outside of tire) in front.
So look what showed up yesterday!
arty:
High Pinion Dana 44 Power trax Lock-Rite install
On a Dana 44 you will most likely need to remove the carrier from the diff to install this so it will take longer. You may need a case spreader (I didn't).
Here are the parts
1.) Open the diff cover and drain the diff gear oil.
2.) Remove your tires and take aparts the hubs.
3.) Remove the brakes and pull the hubs and axle shafts.
4.) Remove the Carrier.
A.) Remove the bearing caps and mark which way they go in with a scribe or sharpie.
B.) Pull the Carrier: you will need a pry-bar.
5.) Unbolt the ring gear from the carrier.
A.) Hammer out the roll pin that holds the pinion shaft in (with a 3/16 drift) (it's what the spiders gears are on)
B.) Slide out the pinion shaft and remove the side gears with their thrust washers and spider gears.
6.) Installing the Lock-Rite into the carrier.
A.) Stack a Thrust washer on each Coupler and place it where a side gear was.
B.) Stack a Spacer onto each Driver, wide side closest to the teeth.
C.) Using thick bearing grease stick a shear pin into each window (the oblong one one each Driver.
D.) Install a Spacer and Driver into the carrier so the teeth mesh with the Coupler. Then do the other one.
E.) Using a pick push the Shear pin into the Driver on the opposite side.
F.) Using thick bearing grease place the Small Springs into the Large Springs and place one in each window after the Shear pins.
7.) Bolt the Ring Gear back on with 80lb/ft of toque.
8.) Re-install the carrier (I had to use a rubber mallet) and bolt the bearing caps back on using 80lb/ft torque. (Make sure you put them back in the way the were).
9.) Reinstall the shafts and test it! Then reinstall the hubs and brakes and put your wheels back on.
10.) Wheel the snot out of it!
Going wheeling tonight to test it out. Got another Write-Up comming up. You can guess what it is.
!
Resources:
These helped
http://www.richmondgear.com/installmanuals.html
http://www.dpgoffroad.com/tech/lockright1.htm
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/locker.html
My wheeling tires have 3.5" of backspacing: so about 83" (outside of tire to outside of tire) in front.
So look what showed up yesterday!
arty:
High Pinion Dana 44 Power trax Lock-Rite install
On a Dana 44 you will most likely need to remove the carrier from the diff to install this so it will take longer. You may need a case spreader (I didn't).
Here are the parts
1.) Open the diff cover and drain the diff gear oil.
2.) Remove your tires and take aparts the hubs.
3.) Remove the brakes and pull the hubs and axle shafts.
4.) Remove the Carrier.
A.) Remove the bearing caps and mark which way they go in with a scribe or sharpie.
B.) Pull the Carrier: you will need a pry-bar.
5.) Unbolt the ring gear from the carrier.
A.) Hammer out the roll pin that holds the pinion shaft in (with a 3/16 drift) (it's what the spiders gears are on)
B.) Slide out the pinion shaft and remove the side gears with their thrust washers and spider gears.
6.) Installing the Lock-Rite into the carrier.
A.) Stack a Thrust washer on each Coupler and place it where a side gear was.
B.) Stack a Spacer onto each Driver, wide side closest to the teeth.
C.) Using thick bearing grease stick a shear pin into each window (the oblong one one each Driver.
D.) Install a Spacer and Driver into the carrier so the teeth mesh with the Coupler. Then do the other one.
E.) Using a pick push the Shear pin into the Driver on the opposite side.
F.) Using thick bearing grease place the Small Springs into the Large Springs and place one in each window after the Shear pins.
7.) Bolt the Ring Gear back on with 80lb/ft of toque.
8.) Re-install the carrier (I had to use a rubber mallet) and bolt the bearing caps back on using 80lb/ft torque. (Make sure you put them back in the way the were).
9.) Reinstall the shafts and test it! Then reinstall the hubs and brakes and put your wheels back on.
10.) Wheel the snot out of it!
Going wheeling tonight to test it out. Got another Write-Up comming up. You can guess what it is.
!Resources:
These helped
http://www.richmondgear.com/installmanuals.html
http://www.dpgoffroad.com/tech/lockright1.htm
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/locker.html
Gravesdiggerxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Utah
So here is the next writeup
Quarter Panel Cut and Fold
1.) Remove your plastic quarter panel covers.
2.) Mark your cuts: on the body lines
Rubber mallet works great here.
when bent it will look like this
3.)I used self tapping sheet metal screws and seam sealer from the inside to finish up
Then onto my bumper/ quarter guard build
1.) I started with this
2.) added these sides 2x4box steel
3.) Capped the ends and filled the gaps and added a tow hitch
4.) Finished and painted; I still need to repaint the quarters where the paint flaked off from the fold, and then put the rear portion of my bushwackers back on.
and along the way added a cherry bomb because I ripped my exhaust off 4 times since Moab. Still need to finish weld it.
tested the bumper this weekend and it worked great.
Quarter Panel Cut and Fold
1.) Remove your plastic quarter panel covers.
2.) Mark your cuts: on the body lines
Rubber mallet works great here.
when bent it will look like this
3.)I used self tapping sheet metal screws and seam sealer from the inside to finish up
Then onto my bumper/ quarter guard build
1.) I started with this
2.) added these sides 2x4box steel
3.) Capped the ends and filled the gaps and added a tow hitch
4.) Finished and painted; I still need to repaint the quarters where the paint flaked off from the fold, and then put the rear portion of my bushwackers back on.
and along the way added a cherry bomb because I ripped my exhaust off 4 times since Moab. Still need to finish weld it.
tested the bumper this weekend and it worked great.
kdailey4315
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pacifica, CA
That is possibly the sickest rear bumper I've ever seen on a Jeep.
Gravesdiggerxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Utah
kdailey4315 said:
Thanks dude.
Chad I'll get one those pics when I get back, I just got service, I'm at hole in the rock on a 4 day trip
Last edited:
PornstaR said:
both gravedigger and I are running them with cats... If my 4.0 can make a flame strong enough that it can travel the length of the exhaust through my pizza pocket downpipe, cat, glasspack(that has a very similar design to every " packed style mufflre"), and my almost U shaped tailpipe then I guess I deserve a ticket... Well and some sort of award.
That would be cool if you could get those pics up thanks. Ooh ooh hey gueaa what... its tercel jumpin time this weekend ha ha ha...
blaisetd
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westlake, Louisiana (Southwest)
Any regrets on not cutting and rotating the inner "C"s on the front? b
Award for being :gee::dunce:????? Anywho read all your trail laws, states you must run a chambered muffler (also being known as fire surpressed). Just was a FYI but you will find it all out in full when MR. Ranger comes down and not only tickets you but takes yer rig.slcpunk74 said:
aperwork its all just paperwork:doh:................ kids99XJWhitey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kentucky
PornstaR said:Award for being :gee::dunce:????? Anywho read all your trail laws, states you must run a chambered muffler (also being known as fire surpressed). Just was a FYI but you will find it all out in full when MR. Ranger comes down and not only tickets you but takes yer rig.
....wow.... and I thought I started arguments about stupid shit....
Gravesdiggerxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Utah
As far as glasspack mufflers being illegal on the trail, I appreciate your concern. I'm not interested in starting fires, but I feel safe running one with slcpunk74's explaination and the fact that a large portion of comp buggies and trail rigs run glasspacks; however, if you can find me some written law against them; I'll happily install a spark arrestor.assgas:to keep the fire danger down.
No regrets. I just got done running a 700+ mile wheeling trip out to Hole in the Rock. We I drove approx 100 miles in 4wd up to 55mph and up to 80 mph on the freeway home. I didn't have any noticable driveshaft vibes over my worn out MTR's. (I'll have some pics soon)
I need to play with the caster though... I'm running about 7* I'd like to try 5*
assgas:to keep the fire danger down.blaisetd said:
No regrets. I just got done running a 700+ mile wheeling trip out to Hole in the Rock. We I drove approx 100 miles in 4wd up to 55mph and up to 80 mph on the freeway home. I didn't have any noticable driveshaft vibes over my worn out MTR's. (I'll have some pics soon)
I need to play with the caster though... I'm running about 7* I'd like to try 5*
mcraindog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Middle, Georgia
hey would you like to post some pics of that light close up? and maybe how it was mounted and all that jazz
VegasAnthony
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas
nice work on changing the oem bushing..I racked my brain for a week before i gave up on modifiying it,,any problems with it ..do you remember what the sleeve is from?..
Gravesdiggerxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Utah
VegasAnthony said:
Thanks, no problems yet, but I made a spare just in case. I got it from teraflex plus, but the for the spare I just found it in a big bucket of them somewhere.
Gravesdiggerxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Utah
So here are a few pics from my expedition trip to Hole in the Rock.
You can view the writeup here
http://www.utah4x4club.com/index.php?showtopic=6518
The first day (Saturday) we left at 4:30am and went south to Scipio and Sevier County and then Notum and Burr trails. Then on through Capitol Reef. Then crossed the ferry at Bullfrog bay to Halls Crossing, then went down into Lake Canyon and camped there the first night.
The second day we climbed up a fin to solid slick rock for hours, ran the Chute and climbed up to Grey Mesa, then out to Cheese camp for the second night. We tried to hike down to the Lake Powell but after a few hours it was getting dark.
The third day we drove back throught the bypass to Lake Canyon (which was challenging) and camped at the edge of Lake Powell and took a swim...brrr....
Fourth day we drove back up the Burr trail up the Grand Staircase. Did a fun hike in a slot canyon
and visited some Native American ruins in Boulder and then back home my 10pm
one of the numerous fins to climb
some Anasazi/Hopi ruins near Bouldertown in the Grand Staircase/Escalante area.
You can view the writeup here
http://www.utah4x4club.com/index.php?showtopic=6518
The first day (Saturday) we left at 4:30am and went south to Scipio and Sevier County and then Notum and Burr trails. Then on through Capitol Reef. Then crossed the ferry at Bullfrog bay to Halls Crossing, then went down into Lake Canyon and camped there the first night.
The second day we climbed up a fin to solid slick rock for hours, ran the Chute and climbed up to Grey Mesa, then out to Cheese camp for the second night. We tried to hike down to the Lake Powell but after a few hours it was getting dark.
The third day we drove back throught the bypass to Lake Canyon (which was challenging) and camped at the edge of Lake Powell and took a swim...brrr....
Fourth day we drove back up the Burr trail up the Grand Staircase. Did a fun hike in a slot canyon
and visited some Native American ruins in Boulder and then back home my 10pm
one of the numerous fins to climb
some Anasazi/Hopi ruins near Bouldertown in the Grand Staircase/Escalante area.
mancheman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Carolina
looks good man, what size tire do you plain to run with the new swap? This is what i might do to mine. Keep the thread goin.
Leroy
Leroy
Gravesdiggerxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Utah
I got death wobble today for the first time in a long time, and I hate that crap.
I literally checked everything in the front suspension and fixed a few things, but finally I found the root... the holes where the steering box bolts to the frame where stripped out and the steering box was literally "flexing" away from the frame rail. I think it must have been caused when I ripped my steering box off my frame awhile back. See here http://www.utah4x4club.com/index.php?showtopic=3693
So $148 later (with an $85 core charge) I have a new write-up to add.
Steering box replacement:
(I choose to remove my swaybar and steering box brace beforehand; you don't have to do it, but it makes it easier.)
1.) First center your steering wheel. Then, unbolt the pitman arm and pull it off. I recommend the Snap-On pitman arm puller. You can use an impact and it's off in 20 seconds vs. the Harbor Freight method of breaking 6 of them :roll:
2.) Unbolt the steering shaft from the steering box.
You may need to push a radiator hose out of the way.
DO NOT rotate the steering shaft you may ruin the clockspring.
3.) Unbolt the steering box from the frame.
This little support will fall out. Remember to put it back in before you put the new box back on.
4.) Unscrew the lines that run into the box. (they are only like $15 a piece so if they look worn at all... just replace them.) I choose to mark the upper with a paint pen for reference.
the box will then come out.
5.) While you have the box out inspect your frame rail for damage. Notice the little cracks I had to weld up.
here are the two boxes next to each other
6.) Throw the new box on
a.) Bolt up the lines (remember to replace the o-rings.)
b.) Add fluid and bleed air out of the system as per the instructions that came with your steering box.
c.) Replace the old steering box bolts with grade 8 ones *(they are 4" long and 7/16 diameter.)
7.) Enjoy great more responsive turning... and in my case; no more death wobble.
Here's a good resource (durango steering box swap) but they bolt on the same
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71626
I literally checked everything in the front suspension and fixed a few things, but finally I found the root... the holes where the steering box bolts to the frame where stripped out and the steering box was literally "flexing" away from the frame rail. I think it must have been caused when I ripped my steering box off my frame awhile back. See here http://www.utah4x4club.com/index.php?showtopic=3693
So $148 later (with an $85 core charge) I have a new write-up to add.
Steering box replacement:
(I choose to remove my swaybar and steering box brace beforehand; you don't have to do it, but it makes it easier.)
1.) First center your steering wheel. Then, unbolt the pitman arm and pull it off. I recommend the Snap-On pitman arm puller. You can use an impact and it's off in 20 seconds vs. the Harbor Freight method of breaking 6 of them :roll:
2.) Unbolt the steering shaft from the steering box.
You may need to push a radiator hose out of the way.
DO NOT rotate the steering shaft you may ruin the clockspring.
3.) Unbolt the steering box from the frame.
This little support will fall out. Remember to put it back in before you put the new box back on.
4.) Unscrew the lines that run into the box. (they are only like $15 a piece so if they look worn at all... just replace them.) I choose to mark the upper with a paint pen for reference.
the box will then come out.
5.) While you have the box out inspect your frame rail for damage. Notice the little cracks I had to weld up.
here are the two boxes next to each other
6.) Throw the new box on
a.) Bolt up the lines (remember to replace the o-rings.)
b.) Add fluid and bleed air out of the system as per the instructions that came with your steering box.
c.) Replace the old steering box bolts with grade 8 ones *(they are 4" long and 7/16 diameter.)
7.) Enjoy great more responsive turning... and in my case; no more death wobble.
Here's a good resource (durango steering box swap) but they bolt on the same
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71626
Last edited:
Similar threads
