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Keeping A Low Center of Gravity.

Why was that a bad move? He got rid of her and gets to build a new Jeep. Sounds good to me.

Not really, he had a pretty clean Jeep, even if it was from a "rusty state"(obviously he has never been to a state with rust). It was a very dumb move.
 
Old XJ, 2" BB and 34" LTBs.

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Only "wheeling pic" I have.

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New rig, 2" BB, 28" Duelers, rear powertrax. WF '09

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Same rig, added 31" Pro Comp A/Ts

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WF '10, same rig, 33" TrXus m/t, 17" Allied beadlocks

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Swapping in a 60/14 now, rear is in and wheelbase is stretched 5.5", picking up 79 Ford 60 on Saturday. Shooting for about 5.5" and 38-40s.
 
Not really, he had a pretty clean Jeep, even if it was from a "rusty state"(obviously he has never been to a state with rust). It was a very dumb move.


thanks, externally it was clean, but it was a 2000 so it had the distributorless ignition, had a LP D30, a C8.25, the power windows only worked on the driver door, it shuts off at random times, it downshifts if in overdrive cause its running 3.55 gears on 33's, i did a tc drop, front leaf spring bolt is frozen in the frame so its still on stock main leaf. the list goes on... best parts on it were the IRO track bar, the hatch rack i built the rims and tires i bought and my kc's up front...
 
thats kind of my plan, 2-3" lift with 33's and bump stopped well

idk what i'll do about the rear yet, shackles sound good but maybe a single dakota leaf will do the trick for the rear and i already have 2" lift coils. and IRO has a track bar thats designed for 1-5" of lift so i might go that route
 
So, what I have gathered from extensive reading here is: As long as you have enough bump stop and fender clearance, tire size is merely personal preference? I like this concept.

I have a 7.5 RE long arm kit and 35/12.5s, and I was considering lowering it to 4-4.5 via a spring swap and switching to 32s or 33s. It sounds like I can keep the 35s if I'd like...interesting.

Has anyone gone backwards with their lift this way? I need advice on whether or not I need to change my front long arms. I'm also hoping my drive shafts won't need to be addressed. If I'm lucky, all it will take is a set of 4 springs.
 
your long arms will probably need to be adjusted, and your steering linkage and trac bar played with to make sure your maintaining proper geometry. but there are plenty of people running 4-5" of lift, long arms, and 35. youll love it. just break out the cut off wheel.
 
My 98 with a 4" lift n 35's

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:D

In comparison to the vehicle above: My 98' with 7.5 RE long arm, and 35s, below.





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I bought it with this suspension already on it. Lately however, I've been thinking about lowering it. It has 7.5 coils in front and 5.5 full leafs in the back w/ 2" spacers. The rear springs have settled, so I think that if I just remove the blocks, and swap some 4.5 coils in the front and I will be in business.

Any advice on setting up the bump stops after the swap? I guess what I am looking for advice on is what and where to buy more than procedural instruction.
 
Well I was originally at 4" with 33's

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And at full stuff my front fenders rubbed a tiny bit and my rears chewed up the tires but my front fenders were bearly trimmed and rears weren't so I trimmed up My fronts to the fender flare lines and cut n folded my rears. I haven't had a oppritunity to see how these 35's clear yet but I know I'm gunna need some extended bump stops for the rear. I think the fronts should be fine because they're already bump stopped quite a bit.
my original plan was to go 5.5" with 35's but I really Like how the 4" sits and rides.
With a 35/12.5 spare strapped to my roof I still can park in my garage and sits about the same height as a Chevy Tahoe
:D
 
Here is my heep, i figure i am at around 3"-3.5" of lift and 33" KM2 (Love these tires), somewhat heavy trimming. :)
Here is a shot of it on level ground

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and here is a shot off it flexing.

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i don't know i can see them when i am logged in, it might be because i am member and using the :NAXJA: photo album
 
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