Is aftermarket Y link steering really necessary?

kayakbrian

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oregon
Last year, a shop recommended that I upgrade my steering so I went with the recommendation for the Rubicon express Y link kit. the boots on the tie rod ends ripped open within a couple weeks, And the heavy bar flops backwards, causing the steering stabilizer to dig into the track bar. A shop quoted me $500 to make and install custom bushings to fix the flop, and then more to replace all the tie rod ends. Ultimately, it would be the same price as getting a Currie setup which I could install myself and then bring in for alignment. But before I pull the trigger on all that money, I guess I’m wondering is this really necessary? I’ve heard that you can replace the weak tie rod with a much stronger one off of a ZJ, which just leaves the drag link, I’m running 31s on a 3 1/2 inch lift doing moderate wheeling with heavy loads. Am I likely to Bend a stock drag link under those circumstances? I don’t mind spending money on the jeep, and I like working on it, but I don’t want to just throw parts at something that’s not necessary.
 
Rubicon Express doesnt sell/make a y-link steering set-up. The Currie Correct linc set is a great upgrade, been running this @5.5" for many years now and love it!
 
Rubicon Express doesnt sell/make a y-link steering set-up. The Currie Correct linc set is a great upgrade, been running this @5.5" for many years now and love it!
I see it is listed as a y-link but it's built like a "inverted t" set-up!
 
IMO, unless you are having a problem, stock steering isn't a problem.

My lift started at 2", progressed to 3.5", and is now at 5.5" I still have stock steering. It isn't ideal, but it also isn't a big deal. I have driven 1850 miles to Moab for Fall Fling, and 1850 miles back home, twice at each lift height. Most of that time my XJ was also my daily driver.

I do carry a complete spare steering set-up when off-roading, but I have not needed it yet.

Several members of my local Jeep club have installed the ORO U-Turn steering with excellent results.

https://offroadonly.com/shop/u-turn/off-road-only-u-turn-for-jeep-wrangler-tjljxjzj-left-hand-drive/




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These bushings are a lot less than $500: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...MI26SEibzyiAMVAIDCCB2aDgLkEAAYASAAEgKC4vD_BwE

Since the 90’s we have called the one with a knuckle-to-knuckle tie rod “inverted T”, not sure when or why people started calling that “inverted Y”.

Currectlync or stock replacement V8-engine ZJ Grand Cherokee steering are the popular bolt-in options.
The RE kit has lots of problems so I'm definitely going to be replacing it with one of those two setups, what am I gaining and what am I losing with one vs the other? I'm on 31s with 3" lift, moderate off-road camping, always loaded down heavy.
 
I would run stock over currie stock steering.
In fact I did run stock steering from 2 to 3 inches of lift on 33s. I did later upgrade to 1 ton steering with 35s and I'm running the same tie rod but set up is WJ steering and the tie rods bent to s*** the actual tie rods on the end of the bar are bent like just cuz it's tough s*** doesn't mean it doesn't Bend. I say in this case if it ain't broke don't fix it in the curry correct link is very expensive for s*** you're just going to bend
 
I run a 5" lift and have ZJ V8 steering that has never given me problems and handles very well. You can junkyard it or here is the parts list to buy new.
  • ES3096L Tie rod end (Tie rod, and Drag link)
  • ES2223R Track bar Tie rod
  • DS1312 Long Tie rod
  • ES2079S Adjusting Sleeve (Tie rod and Drag link)
  • DS1238 Drag link
 
I run a 5" lift and have ZJ V8 steering that has never given me problems and handles very well. You can junkyard it or here is the parts list to buy new.
  • ES3096L Tie rod end (Tie rod, and Drag link)
  • ES2223R Track bar Tie rod
  • DS1312 Long Tie rod
  • ES2079S Adjusting Sleeve (Tie rod and Drag link)
  • DS1238 Drag link
Thank you! I actually just did that, now to check what I bought against your list!
 
RC makes a HD tie rod. I'm running it on my XJ with a new AC Delco drag link and new tie rod ends. I went with Proforged tie rod ends because I felt the quality was a little better than Moog. I have a post somewhere on the forum.
 
There is no Currie or Rubicon Express kit at a random parts store in Mexico but there might be stock replacement V8 Zj.
Anyone wheeling remotely should properly plan. Currie bolts up to the stock knuckles so you can carry your stock setup as an emergency backup. I've never seen a Currie setup fail at Johnson Valley which is an exponentially more difficult wheeling/driving environment then almost anywhere else.

The ZJ setup is an upgrade, but it is no where near as strong as the Currie setup.

That said - we all had spares on our trailers.
 
These bushings are a lot less than $500: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...MI26SEibzyiAMVAIDCCB2aDgLkEAAYASAAEgKC4vD_BwE

Since the 90’s we have called the one with a knuckle-to-knuckle tie rod “inverted T”, not sure when or why people started calling that “inverted Y”.

Currectlync or stock replacement V8-engine ZJ Grand Cherokee steering are the popular bolt-in options.
This is by far the easiest way to cure the problem.


Otherwise, I ran the ZJ setup on my locked/33s XJ for years, including through the Rubicon. Switched to an OTK setup to help roll center (raising/leveling the track bar) and overall axle swing because I was running a long travel setup, but the ZJ setup was perfectly functional when removed. I've scraped it against things without bending, but it's not the right setup if you tend to drive by braille... :D
 
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