Is the a cheap way to get there from here?

cracker said:
Well, I called SpiderTrax.

I must say they were very pleasant to speak to as well.

The knuckles (inner and outer) will be available sometime this year for $800 for both sides including the spherical bearings as a kit (with the built in high steer). They did not want to say exactly when they would be available but it would definitley be this year. Inner Cs will be set up for a 3" tube. The knuckles will allow for a 45 degree turning angle. The unit bearing is going to be the F450 unit bearing that will be available for $300/each BUT it could be set up with regular ford locking hubs. Can be drilled 8 x 6.5, 6 x 5.5, or 5 x 5.5. Spidertrax will be offering Willwood caliper and rotor sets for $500. For the Willwood set-up, the rims must be 17" BUT one may get the Ford calipers to mount if you were to make your own caliper mount and that may allow a 16" wheel. The outer stub shaft will be 35 spline as opposed to the OEM ford 33 spline (but you could use the cheaper Spicer 33 spline stubs if you want with the regular unit bearing).

As far as I can tell...

Knuckles and spherical bearings $800
Unit Bearings $600
Brakes $500

A very good possibility.

It looks good at first, but once you add it all together it hits the 6G mark, same as Currie & Dedenbear:
Add to your $1900
Custom 9 houising $ 800
Axles $ 750
CTM's $ 550
Hi9 $2000

Total Spider = $6000

The situation is deteriorating rapidly.

Paul
 
Paul S said:
It looks good at first, but once you add it all together it hits the 6G mark, same as Currie & Dedenbear:
Add to your $1900
Custom 9 houising $ 800
Axles $ 750
CTM's $ 550
Hi9 $2000

Total Spider = $6000

The situation is deteriorating rapidly.

Paul

Paul,

I was thinking of it as a hybrid to possible merry up with my HP 44.

You could have the housing made by Currie for $400 if you sent the inner C's down to them. Those housings are not that expensive. You could use the CHP third member with a 35 spline locker. You already have a ring and pinion (I know you don't want to regear the rear as well).

You would need shafts and CTMs as well.

Thats IF you stay with 37s ;) The goal is to prevent more breakage on 37s right?
 
Goatman said:
Another issue is lug pattern and brake size. I already have good beadlock rims, and my rear axle is 5 on 5.5, so I need to get 5 on 5.5 D60 hubs.

So here's my question from reading through these many posts about 37s on the 44s, the hubs distorting, etc etc etc. Is all this effort and discussion about getting 60 outers on other axles mainly because everyone is trying to stick with 5x5.5 bolt pattern? Anyone running the 44s with the Chevy/Dodge outers and not having the same problems? I know Matt was looking into reinforcing his hubs, and if the real theme here is to prevent blowing up the hubs/driveflange/etc, and its the crappy ford hubs that are the problem, then it seams to me the cheapest fix is buying new wheels and Chevy Rotors/Hubs, if sleeving the hubs doesn't work.
 
cracker said:
Paul,

I was thinking of it as a hybrid to possible merry up with my HP 44.

You could have the housing made by Currie for $400 if you sent the inner C's down to them. Those housings are not that expensive. You could use the CHP third member with a 35 spline locker. You already have a ring and pinion (I know you don't want to regear the rear as well).

You would need shafts and CTMs as well.

Thats IF you stay with 37s ;) The goal is to prevent more breakage on 37s right?

For the purpose of this thread I was considering if you didn't have parts that you could reuse. Currie can put 60 C's on my existing housing for $300, C's included. I like this option as I don't think I could put as much time & energy into fabing a new housing as I did with this one.
I could keep my Currie HP, but I'll need a 35 spline Detroit, that's if it will even fit the case. I'm not sure if my current 31 spline Detroit is a small or large bearing. I'm going to pull it tonight & measure it.
Then you have to consider resale value of your 44 over the savings of using some of your existing parts.

& finally my 37's might last 1 or 2 runs on the new axle, then I'd by looking into 40" XTerrain's, full hydro steering, etc... This is where the cost will hit 10G, as Matt noted.

One thing we found on the buggy run was that our 37's are a tad small for the the tough new JV trails & our new driving style.

Paul
 
Paul S said:
I could keep my Currie HP, but I'll need a 35 spline Detroit, that's if it will even fit the case. I'm not sure if my current 31 spline Detroit is a small or large bearing. I'm going to pull it tonight & measure it.

I think a different Third is needed for 35 spline :( but for 40s you will want a different gear ratio as well so then you WILL have to go TrueHi9.
 
Build a front end for $10,000 or buy a bling front end & get a few extra parts for $17,000. This is the buggy that came up behind us on Hwy 19-20. I do believe this may be the route I go next even if I don't use the chasis. The parts put into this rig alone could easily top the $30,000 mark...

FJ Buggy
 
basalt51 said:
So here's my question from reading through these many posts about 37s on the 44s, the hubs distorting, etc etc etc. Is all this effort and discussion about getting 60 outers on other axles mainly because everyone is trying to stick with 5x5.5 bolt pattern? Anyone running the 44s with the Chevy/Dodge outers and not having the same problems? I know Matt was looking into reinforcing his hubs, and if the real theme here is to prevent blowing up the hubs/driveflange/etc, and its the crappy ford hubs that are the problem, then it seams to me the cheapest fix is buying new wheels and Chevy Rotors/Hubs, if sleeving the hubs doesn't work.

CRASH is running the Chevy 6 bolt stuff & says his going through "1.5 hubs per year". It would be pretty difficult to warrenty that .5 hub though. I believe he's still playing on 35's. This is making me question wether it's worth the hassle to sleave the hubs or not...
 
FarmerMatt said:
CRASH is running the Chevy 6 bolt stuff & says his going through "1.5 hubs per year". It would be pretty difficult to warrenty that .5 hub though. I believe he's still playing on 35's. This is making me question wether it's worth the hassle to sleave the hubs or not...

So are you guys all running 37's?
 
Ghost said:
So are you guys all running 37's?

Well, this discussion came out of a recent trip to JV, which was four of us who are running 37's, me, FarmerMatt, Paul S, and Dave Taylor. I think Cracker will be running 37's now on his new axle, and Captain Ron will be running them on his new rig, plus a few others who have made comments here.
 
cracker said:
I think a different Third is needed for 35 spline :( but for 40s you will want a different gear ratio as well so then you WILL have to go TrueHi9.

Small bearing 31 spline Detroit will require a new case, large bearing 31 spline Detroit uses the same case as the 35 spline detroit.
With an Atlas 5.0 I would have no problem running 40's on 4.88's, so I wouldn't regear the 3rd's regardless.

Paul
 
Goatman said:
I think Cracker will be running 37's now on his new axle, and Captain Ron will be running them on his new rig, plus a few others who have made comments here.

Yup. It may actually roll for the first time with all the new junk tomorrow :clap:
 
Paul S said:
Small bearing 31 spline Detroit will require a new case, large bearing 31 spline Detroit uses the same case as the 35 spline detroit.
With an Atlas 5.0 I would have no problem running 40's on 4.88's, so I wouldn't regear the 3rd's regardless.

Paul

I think the 8" case that currie is using for their hi pinion can't be had in the larger bearing required to run 35 splines. Don't hold me to that it came up when I was shopping quite a while ago. At the time I passed on that axle because I didn't feel it was worth the money and not get 35 spline shafts.
 
FarmerMatt said:
Build a front end for $10,000 or buy a bling front end & get a few extra parts for $17,000. This is the buggy that came up behind us on Hwy 19-20. I do believe this may be the route I go next even if I don't use the chasis. The parts put into this rig alone could easily top the $30,000 mark...

FJ Buggy

at that point Matt - id have to ask why you wouldnt just sell the CAT where it sits... maybe your figures should look more like:
Buid a front end for $10,000
or buy a bling front end and a few more parts for $17,000 - $10,000 that you could sell the CAT for = $7,000
 
FarmerMatt said:
CRASH is running the Chevy 6 bolt stuff & says his going through "1.5 hubs per year". It would be pretty difficult to warrenty that .5 hub though. I believe he's still playing on 35's. This is making me question wether it's worth the hassle to sleave the hubs or not...


Yes. 35's.

Oh, Jes an I came up with the solution for all this nonsense over several beers at URF Headquarters.

Trade your high traction MTR/X-terrain/Krawlers/Creepies for a set of BFG Muds in whatever size you want.

The lack of traction will save you a BUNCH of upgrade $, which you can spend here.
 
CRASH said:
Yes. 35's.

Oh, Jes an I came up with the solution for all this nonsense over several beers at URF Headquarters.

Trade your high traction MTR/X-terrain/Krawlers/Creepies for a set of BFG Muds in whatever size you want.

The lack of traction will save you a BUNCH of upgrade $, which you can spend here.

I need to order some of those reinforcement plates. How much shipped to 90703?

-Mike
 
Why doesn't URF sell the QDE's that we invented on the first BOTW?

Quick Disconnect Eliminators, for those pesky failing tranny line leaks:
2958049.JPG
 
Mike L said:
I need to order some of those reinforcement plates. How much shipped to 90703?

-Mike

Don't bother. I ordered some of those almost three years ago. I get a weekly e-mail "Almost ready working on instructions". That place is a joke. :mad:
 
Back
Top