Is the a cheap way to get there from here?

Jeff 98XJ WI said:
The knuckles have been at a friends since October. I'm guessing that they are sitting on a shelf in his garage in the same shape they were when I passed them on. They've still got a chunk of the 60 housing tube in them and he is supposed to open them up for a press fit on the 44 shafts. I may have to make other arrangements. Jeff

It wouldn't be that big of deal to sleave them yourself. Also I've had good luck with mad4wd for a little custom stuff. They build a lot of axles and could probably make you the sleave for an ok price.
 
Dirk Pitt said:

Alright, those are cool! Although when comparing them to the stock balljoint & king pin versions they come off as looking pretty cheasy (small). If I understand what they're saying they're using 3/4" spherical bearings in place of the ball joint / king pin, hmmm... I'm curious how this would hold up strength wise... You'd still need to come up with spindles, bearings, hubs, rotors, & brakes. In thinking this through you could almost end up with a 9" / 60 hybrid that weighs less than a dana 30 with these knuckles. I'll let some other guys run them for awhile, but this could be a very viable option.
 
Lincoln said:
Just because everyone thinks the seal is an issue. I found this candidate after 5 minutes of searching. It would take more measurments and checking to make sure it would work but there are bunches in this size range. I'll let you boys figure it out.

national_41461s.jpg

Napa #15292 is one I have seen mentioned on PIRATE

HTH,

Mike
 
Those are very nice looking. I also wonder how the 3/4" spherical bearing will hold up in a heavier rig over a long period of time. On a comp rig you can change everything out every season, in the real world they'll take more of a beating. Looks to me like they would save $350 over the Currie F450 setup, and a little more savings over new Dedenbear inner and outer knuckles.

Looking at the cost of all this stuff reminds me of why I decided to go the D44 route, with Warn shafts and CTM's, back when I was trying to decide between the D44 or the D60. $3000+ difference for Spicer shafts and u-joints, and more for alloys and aftermarket joints. You gotta really want the D60 stuff, and have the cash to spend.

I have the "really wants", just not the cash. :D
 
Just get some dang rockwells, pumpkin clearance is just a few tires bigger away and I don't think you will break them
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
And I beat you both to it on post 23! I've even got pictures of the seal both on a 35 spline shaft and in a D44 housing. READ FIRST! Jeff

HA, HA!
 
Fullsizexj said:
Just get some dang rockwells, pumpkin clearance is just a few tires bigger away and I don't think you will break them

Racing to the trail and jumping sand dunes is still part of my goal, as well as really good climbing ability. Rockwells are awfull heavy. :)
 
My head hurts after reading all this malarkie... so a question. Would the D44 I'm building hold up to 37"s behind the 4 popper and 5.38's? What if I og the doubler route and a 4 or 5 to 1 low low range? Any thoughts? Am I pissing up a rope?
 
Ghost said:
My head hurts after reading all this malarkie... so a question. Would the D44 I'm building hold up to 37"s behind the 4 popper and 5.38's? What if I og the doubler route and a 4 or 5 to 1 low low range? Any thoughts? Am I pissing up a rope?

It may hold in South Carolina but here in west it would be a tough call. As far as using a doubler and what not, you are increasing your torque with any gear reduction so 'no' it probably won't hold.
 
Lincoln said:
I believe they use the 450 knuckles to get the ability to use the wilwoods and 15" wheels. When I talked to Currie they told me the knuckles were the same between the 250/350 version and the 450 except for the caliper mounts. To use their mounts the 450 knuckles were required.

Lincoln, do you (or anyone) think there is a downside to the 450 inner C & unit bearing route? I really like the idea of eliminating hubs, but it will cost as much as going full bling Dedenbear inners & outers, etc...
D60 hubs stick out 0.5" further than 44 hubs, that would bug me to no end.

Paul
 
Paul S said:
Lincoln, do you (or anyone) think there is a downside to the 450 inner C & unit bearing route? I really like the idea of eliminating hubs, but it will cost as much as going full bling Dedenbear inners & outers, etc...
D60 hubs stick out 0.5" further than 44 hubs, that would bug me to no end.

Paul

Paul, I've not heard any negatives to the 450/unit bearing route. The bearings are plenty stout for Jeep use, only the BigDumbTruck crowd has trouble with the design under the heavy loads experienced with large tires, diesel powerplants and towing excessive loads. You'll be fine, and the hub is really nicely tucked in, even compared to a 44.
 
Goatman said:
Why hybrid? Good question. HP60's are getting nearly impossible to find. Us west coast guys are real sensitive to ground clearance. Running the big dry rocks position and clearance are everything, and there's plenty of guys with high clearance aftermarket 60's and 9's. IF it will hold together, a hybrid has a lot to offer. I guess if a hybrid is really worth it, the safe way to go is with a 9" housing.....light, strong, and high clearance, both housing and driveline. If I was running a stock 60 centersection, in the stuff we run 40's would have to be the minimum tire size.


I'd vouch for a 9" True High Nine which is 2.5" above the center line of the axle being higher than a hp44 or hp60. The 9" gets the complaint of having such a low pinion stock, but when Hi-Nine came to the market and flipped it and cut new hp 9" gears as apposed to the Currie 8.8 gears, you have something here, they also addressed the oil lubing as well, not just flipping a standard 9" 3rd member.

A 9" is also light and can be built very tough with 35 or 40 spline axle shafts and dana 60 outers. We are talking about putting these big bad axles in a unibodied vehicle so a 9" works out so good because it is light, can have a very good hi pinion bolt in option in the Hi-Nine and be built with up to 40 spline axle shafts. The choice is clear a Ford 9" custom high pinion axle built with dana 60 35 spline outers. I think Sunray has the hook up on this bad boy axle. You could also get a Currie built housing and then just bolt in the True Hi-Nine 3rd member, so everything Currie, but the 3rd member. Currie is the 9" master and can build what ever 9" you want.

Ghost said:
My head hurts after reading all this malarkie... so a question. Would the D44 I'm building hold up to 37"s behind the 4 popper and 5.38's? What if I og the doubler route and a 4 or 5 to 1 low low range? Any thoughts? Am I pissing up a rope?

Sure why not. It depends on how you drive and if you have alloy shafts, alloy u-joints etc. Even if you don't you should be o.k being that it's a 4 banger in mostly mud where you are. With 4:1 sure it could as well, just know that it isn't invinsible and you should be o.k., but carry spare shafts. By the time you build a 44, you could do a 60, but you are hit with a heavy weight penalty and loss of ground clearance, and width, and the cost of going 5 lug if you want to keep that pattern over the 8 lug.

Troy
 
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Mike L said:
Where's the popcorn?
popcorn.gif


-Mike

LOL

Not on my account I hope....the subject is very intriguing considering we are talking about putting these huge $ axles to hold up to huge tires in a unibodied vehicle. :laugh3:


You have an awesome rig Matt. I know in a practically you don't have a unibodied vehicle anymore and push your stuff through the hardest stuff on 37's. But why waste $ on a building a dana 44. With 35 splines isn't the ring gear going to be a weak link along with other things? I really think a custom 9" would be a good bet due to the 35 or 40 spline big dog options, the removeable 3rd member with an optional hi pinion etc etc. The 9" is a clear winner here, hybrid it with dana 60 outers and you are golden. Try to break it. :)

I know you could get good $ out of selling your 44 if you do decide to go that route.
 
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Big Red said:
LOL
Matt. I know in a practically you don't have a unibodied vehicle anymore

A tube chassis is the purest form of a unibody.
 
Ghost said:
My head hurts after reading all this malarkie... so a question. Would the D44 I'm building hold up to 37"s behind the 4 popper and 5.38's? What if I og the doubler route and a 4 or 5 to 1 low low range? Any thoughts? Am I pissing up a rope?

I would still go with it. We're running trails with extreme amounts of traction with complete disregaurd for damage & this is the first time I've broke this front end. I'll end up keeping this front end until I crack it like an egg & am forced to do something else. I'm at 4.3:1 in the case & 5:38's at the diffs with an auto. It also seems that my foot is getting heavier as the falls we're climbing get taller as well... A 60 the way I'd like it built along with 40" tires (if you go 60's than you have to go 40"s) would start to push the $10,000 mark... At that price I'd be better off looking for used buggy's that have already depreciated their blinging parts & buying it. I'd rape it for what parts I wanted & sell off the rest. A guy came rolling up behind us in a buggy that weekend. He bought it for 17K & had a very blinging drive train. It was an old comp rig & I can't stop thinking about it & how he stole it...

Matt
 
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