Cage construction

I don't know if you've watched Andy's buggy work (pretty damn good), and he has 2.0" air shocks.










Oh yeah, he's also got an aluminum 4 cyl in a real light weight buggy. :)

You would probably be happy with 2.5's in the front ad 2.0's in the back, but if you're willing to mess with them to get them really right, and want to go fast as well as crawl, you'd most likely be happier long term with the 2.5's.
 
Goatman said:
I don't know if you've watched Andy's buggy work (pretty damn good), and he has 2.0" air shocks.






Oh yeah, he's also got an aluminum 4 cyl in a real light weight buggy. :)

You would probably be happy with 2.5's in the front ad 2.0's in the back, but if you're willing to mess with them to get them really right, and want to go fast as well as crawl, you'd most likely be happier long term with the 2.5's.
Click to expand...

Where is Andy's build thread?
 
Rick,

I spent an entire season trying to tune rear 2.0's. I was literally tuning after every run & even in the morning/afternoon between trails.
On the very last run of the season I thought I finally made some positive headway with them, but by then I had made my mind up to get the 2.5's.
I had the 2.5's working better than the 2.0's the first day (after the first initial tuning), after a few more changes they were working great.
I'm still fine-tuning as the more you tune the more you realize their potential, but the bottom line is go 2.5's.
14" rear, 12" front...

Or junk your junk, get some 2.0's & build a Bash Buggy around them:laugh3:

Paul
 
Having spent the last couple of days contemplating the rear cage/shock mount/ gas tank mount, I headed back to where I started from.
Keeping in mind that I needed a much higher shock mount than originally planned, not to mention a narrower upper shock location, I think this will work.
Although you cant really see it in the pictures, I have marked the upper shock location (just above the top of the fuel cell.)
dscn1345.jpg

dscn1343.jpg
 
The question I do have is with the rear axle location.
In this picture you can see that the front of the tire sits in front (overlaps) the rear cross bar. I don't think that it should come in contact with it during articulation, but, what do you all think?
As you all know, you can't do one thing without effecting others.
I want 108" wheel base, and I want the front tires to sit in front of the bumper (just bearly.) In order to get that, the rear axle needs to be located right where I have it in the pictures. That also only leaves me with 36" lower control arms in the rear.
Are they going to be too short like that?
I can move the front tires back a few inches if need be, I'd just like to keep the engine as far back in the wheel base as I can.
BTW the axle is located to have 6" of up travel and 8" of down.
dscn1346.jpg

dscn1342.jpg
 
Looks like it shouldn't hit the bar with 8" of uptravel. You should be good.
 
Jump This said:
The question I do have is with the rear axle location.
In this picture you can see that the front of the tire sits in front (overlaps) the rear cross bar. I don't think that it should come in contact with it during articulation, but, what do you all think?
As you all know, you can't do one thing without effecting others.
I want 108" wheel base, and I want the front tires to sit in front of the bumper (just bearly.) In order to get that, the rear axle needs to be located right where I have it in the pictures. That also only leaves me with 36" lower control arms in the rear.
Are they going to be too short like that?
I can move the front tires back a few inches if need be, I'd just like to keep the engine as far back in the wheel base as I can.
BTW the axle is located to have 6" of up travel and 8" of down.
Click to expand...



You've got the damn thing in the garage and have a tape measure, and you post a couple pics and ask guys on the internet if your tire's going to clear?? :rolleyes:

Are you qualified to do this build?

:D



Looks like more than 8" of room for uptravel to me. 36" arms aren't all that short, you should be fine.
 
Goatman said:
You've got the damn thing in the garage and have a tape measure, and you post a couple pics and ask guys on the internet if your tire's going to clear?? :rolleyes:

Are you qualified to do this build?

:D



Looks like more than 8" of room for uptravel to me. 36" arms aren't all that short, you should be fine.
Click to expand...


I'm only qualified to build Margaritas. After that, I will try anything!

I've also never been beyond asking questions regarding the obvious.

:D
 
I suggest you halt all tube work & link it now, as once you do you'll be surprised at how much room everything needs to fully articulate.
I don't think your tire will hit the rear crossbar, but when twisted up it might.
You also need to get your shocks on & test fit.
Did you note that FOX 2.5 airs are over 2" longer than most other shocks for any given travel?

Paul
 
I Think Paul S makes a good point. Buy some cheap PVC mock up some links and tack stuff where you want it and flex it out. PVC is cheaper than DOM and will still give you the answer to your question.

Stukboy

PS: Been watching this thread for a while and you has given me MANY ideas i'm using in my build.
Thanx!
 
The 14" shocks are 38.65" long the 16's are 42.65". I would like to have the static set at 8" of compression (leaving 6" of up travel.) So, from the mounting point on the axle, the upper mount would be 30" above the lower mount. That would put it just above the fuel cell. No problem thier. The rear cage is only 24" wide.
The issue with the cross member can be addressed if clearance becomes an issue ( I go to larger tires maybe.) The control arms will be ordered so more adjustment will be available to make them longer rather than shorter.

I need to wait until next week to order the shocks and until then, I'm stuck with brain storming and detailing (maybe mount the seats and add tie ins.)
I suppose there was a need to see what the end game would look like though...
 
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