2JZGTE swap this summer...

[child9]

Dunno, but what I now know is I will in fact require a Toyota shifter.... Damn it.

 

[SteveT]

I'm lovin' this build. Any reason you wouldn't leave the front of your "scoop" open, just for air flow to cool the engine compartment? You could do some subtle fender vents to let out some heat, or open up the fire wall just below the cowl, and let the heat out of the cowl vents (you'd have to make the passenger side functional).

Depending on what look you're going for, I think a tube bumper, based on something like this, without the winch, but with a "chin" guard for the IC would be functional, and somewhat hide the fact the you have a giant IC on your ride.

If you're keeping everything black, which I think will look great, it should blend in, somewhat.

Steve

Lost track of this thread for a while.

Zipperhead, I wish that was my bumper...I'm running without, now, and look like Fred, from Cars.

Child, I was talking about opening up a vent in the firewall where these guys are drawing air in for their intakes...

It would seem that air taken in through the scoop could exit out these openings. Or maybe a fender vent like this (in concept) but maybe flush, and further back, to let the hot air out.

 

[foress_89]

lol that vent on the left fender is totally from a boat

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

If only I had another t-case and axle upgrade, (hell, another 35 would be ok) on retainer...I'd be a LOT more willing to just smash the petal to the floor when she's on the dyno to see what happens.

Might want to look into a NP231D HD out of a Dodge truck. I'm waiting to finish up one I've been building, a kind of hybrid case, part Jeep aftermarket, part Dodge. The case came from some unknown 99 Dodge truck(it was sitting in the isle at the junk yard, already pulled), but the Dodge case is identical to the Jeep case, save for the tail housing, but with some beefier internals(wide chain, larger shift fork, bigger tail shaft). I picked up the case from the JY for $120, a 6 pinion planetary gear from a NP241D(not the same as the Rubicon case) for $100 off of ebay, and am waiting to order a JB Conversions SYE.

I've added a few other goodies, but all-in-all it was a cheep alternative to a NV241OR, and a little better fit for me, since I have no interest in having my only low range be 4:1. I'm actually considering building another one for my MJ if I decide to do a 4WD conversion, and just leave the stock Dodge tail shaft since I wont need a SYE with a 4' rear driveshaft and a max of 2"-3" lift.

Link to the thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/np231-upgrades-1106630/

 

[WheelinJR]

I'm posting so that I am subscribed...this is bitchin.

 

[child9]

...back to the lab again...

 

[child9]

Well, I put the water pump pulley on, and have the harness opened up...going through and taking out all the stock wiring that ran from the ecu to the 4.0L, and tagging anything that goes into the firewall, emmissions equipment, diagnostic plugs, and fuse/relay blocks. Once I have completed this part, I will clean up and start over with the 2J's harness. There are several issues, but I will deal with them one at a time after the bulk of the wiring is completed. Integrating the stock vss1 signal to the gauge is already done, but I may have to alter the signal after the gauge but before the new ECM so it is understood by the computer. First clue this is not right should be shifting issues. Getting the other gauges to read off the 2J sensors will likely be involved, but I expect this to be the hardest part. Everything else is just data or power for the most part. I know some of you might be experiencing the sensation of your anal sphincter clenching tightly at the image of all those colors laid out across the engine bay, but this is actually something I kind of enjoy. Well, as long as it's going well. If I get caught in a loop and going in circles chasing something or none of my info is jiving then my attitude starts to go downhill, lol. I estimate I am halfway done with the Jeep harness, and I hope to be done entirely by the end of the weekend on Monday night.

 

[child9]

Mounted the new ecu. Dunno if I care for it, but it may be fine once I paint it black.

And just for fun cause it struck me as funny...

 

[urban yan]

haha, awesome.

 

[gradon]

I'll take the the turbo. . .Porsche that is

 

[child9]

I'm wiring by identifying everything and then matching opposing labels. Inputs and outputs. Signal flow. Hope it works out. If it had it before it will still have it, plus some extra upgrades (engine/transmission). I don't know how long till I'm done with the electrical, but all the identification and labeling is done on both the Jeep and the engine. Mostly everything just needs to be hooked up. I really want a heat shrink labeler.
The mission is becoming "get it to run" over a/c and anything not necessary. Considerations for those systems is still a priority, provisions are still being made for them, but I can still work on it after I get it driving. School's comin' up.

That reminds me... does anyone know a source for a/c components? I need my lines going through the firewall to come out and turn 90 instead of coming straight out.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

I had no doubts that you would do this part of the job correctly. Putting on new terminations is the only way to go for reliability. All too often wiring gets the short shift and then folks wonder later why they have issues...

As for the AC, we have a place here in the Springs that will custom make any type of line you can think up. Most like there is one there also. Another option may be something from http://www.classicautoair.com/ They make complete systems and may be able to help with your line needs.

Once again, superb fabrication! Just take your time, tripple check every connection against the prints.

 

[ehall]

Custome AC hoses only require a clamp and a Four Seasons catalog (for the fittings and hose part numbers). See if you have any dedicated AC repair shops and ask where they get hoses made. Any hydraulic shop should be able to do it too, but you might have to bring your own fittings and hoses.

 

[child9]

So after a about 3 hours or so after work today I got the main wire for the charging system wired to the relay box/fusible link, the other 3 wires for the alt now have a plug on them waiting to be connected, a buss bar bolted to the engine bay and the main battery positive wire attached. Now that everything is labeled, I am using ALLDATADIY provided schematics for the Jeep and the MKIV Supra to see how the charging, starting, and a/c systems were wired in each...and I am combining the two to create "hybrid" schematics of sorts, and wiring accordingly. I still need to finish the charging system, and then work on 2: Starting System, 3: A/C System, 4: ECU/Transmission signals, and 5: Power. It should be noted that since I am using an auto and not a 5 speed manual transmission, it requires much more than just the typical 7 to 9 wires to be connected for vehicle operation. For instance, the "Brake Pedal Sense" input to the ecu is important for torque converter lock-up/release operations, and the speed signals are important for shifting, etc. Without them, the vehicle will not drive.

 

[child9]

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/...7ToyotaAristo2JZGTEEngineLoomtoBodyLoomPinout

 

[Super mud]

Very cool in depth wiring. I am also one of the few who enjoys tackling the spagetti too. What exactly is going on the the pin terminals? Is that just chassis wiring which the 2jz ecu needs to read? Also are the pins just Hitec connectors if your familiar with the rc stuff?

 

[child9]

I've messed with converting an xmod into a li-poly 12v fan cooled undriveable monster, and none of the pins on that were similar. ECU plug and pins were sourced from Autosport Wiring in Dallas, TX. Everything that connects the ECU to the chassis pretty much has to be done through that plug.

Funny, I was looking for my black flashlight and while I was looking at the 3rd pic I posted of the relay box, I realized where it is, lol!

 

[cobra96svt570]

A good axle for the 2jz-xj what 8.8s can handle.

this is what you need for a Rear axle.
enjoy the stealthy 8.8 in action w/400lbs-trq put to it.: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgJ7spwrJyQ

 

[cobra96svt570]

P.S This is just a post on some of the axle threads i read previoulsy in this thread., and wanted to share my personal experinece with what I have used in previous builds.
Its jsut my personal experience, and real life actions.

I scrolled thru as many pages as i could till i got dizzy, and I noticed alot of ppl saying the dana's will bloe apart. When actually they are very strong, as long as you dont run 33's and try to do rollbacks and drifts with, theyll hold up fine with those small supra rims for a while.

I had a juced up 6psi 4.0, with some mustang GT rims with low prows and a posi trac. It held up fine, un till the spiders tor apart a year later.
Now the best option, find a rear axle setup out of a 96-98 cobra, factory posi-trac, 8.8, with the 31-spline axles, and factory cobra 11.65 disc & calipers, and it will hold up to 400hp easy..

Or throw a detroit tru-tac locker with the worm gera setup, and solves you clutch ware and removes the spiders, which wil then support as much as you can throw at it. I had a 96 cobra fully built with 490hp single t70 & 14psi.
And the car seen lots of abuse in drifting tournaments and autcross, and never had a problem. Plus its still streetable.

So go with a good 8.8, built up, cutthe brackets off, weld up leaf perches and there you go. It can even be a 8.8 out of a lincoln or explore, just add some upgrads i stated, and weld perches and your good to up to 500hp +
]
heres a video of my built 8.8 I had in the cobra testing it out Before the turbo, but still pushin almost 400hp with boltons,aftermarket standalone and other stuff i didnt list in the decription. but it wasnt boosted at the time.But this is the same axle setup I put in and xj later on.

This is why I will take and 8.8 over any other rear for street performance. A dana 44-60 is made for offroad IMO, meanwhile and 8.8 is the beast on the street, but also good in the woods. Cheap parts, easy to build, and you can find and 8.8 in just about any ford. just some are beter then others.

The best 8.8s are in cobras, certain #r'd hi-end GTs, and some explorers with offroad/tow packages. just look around! plus there cheap.

Even if you get a 96-98 cobra 8.8 thats shot, rebuild it for about 500$ and you got a ver strong rear.especially if you ass gussets and strength suports. If your running over 35's, go for a D44, but a 60 would be best, or a GM 12-14bolt.
enjoy the stealthy 8.8 in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgJ7spwrJyQ

or check out my other videos on the cobra, and other cool stuff. www.youtube.com/cobra96svt570 :laugh3:

 

[cobra96svt570]

aper:
this is and awsome build. I have a 1jz non turbo, but i was thinking i could swap it in and turbo it after, moswt likey dooing a bi-turbo setup with one small to4e, that will work in conjuction spooling up at low rpms, and a larger 60-1 with 62.a.r turbine, and 70.a.r compressor.
It would make th 1jz a perfect all around turbo engine. with the to4 spooling down low, and spooling up the larger 60-1, so if my calculations are rite it should build 4-6psi down low rpms with now lag great for woods trailing crawling, and boost up to about 10-16psi for extreme mid range to top end for the hi speed tire wheel spin in mudd, and great for passing a couple hotrods on the stree.
The combinatios are limitles, everything from a/r size, to inducer an exducer size, and how many fins such as 12-16 fins on eother inducer and exducer can change things complety and make big increases in low-end mid-rang anti lag, or midrange to topend with low end lag.

There are so many capabilitys of and diffrent sizes of inducers,exducers, fin count,a.r turbins and compressors sizes that can change everything in a vehicle performance.
Im tired of hear that a turbo engine is no good in the woods, just get a v8.

If these ppl that say that only wish they knew the true capabilitys of turbos, some turbo systems are mounted in the rear under the trunk, and they dont even make any sort of lag. Its all in the turbos dimension, a good start is to look at flow vs rpm vs cfm charts & calculators.

With the right turbo setup, you can make it do whatever you want. You just haveto spend the research time like i did. Things like hottside pipe diameter, to wastegate size, to coldside pipe size and amounts of bends.
There is so many thing you can do to make a turbo setup feel like its not even turbo. Ill take a turbo Inline six, with a good engine management, a good twin small spooling big turbo setup over a v8 anyday.

Its all in the design. A well thought out, studied, plan, mathmatical turbo system will decamate anything. I know i got overwlemed a lil, but i just wanted to point out to the others here the unlimeted option with a I6 turbo setup.
Thanks, Just my 2cents.