2JZGTE swap this summer...

[USMCGunrock]

Wow! 3hrs reading this thread and its all worth it!! One heck of a build..can't wait to see it up and running. 4wd burnout with ur current setup?....ur wheels will run without ur truck..hehehehehe

 

[Hammered]

two things... for the motor location / axle up travel. Why not just notch the oil pan? I suppose it depends on how much it impedes.

2ndly... I say put the toyota rims back on.

 

[FlexdXJ]

I absolutely plan on getting video of this Jeep doing a 4-wheel burnout... but not until the front bumper situation is addressed, lol. I may or may not need to upgrade all the Jeep drivetrain components too. Dana 30 and 35 with stock NP231, we'll see. I expect everything to last longer because of the way the power will come on. Nice and smooth, no jarring. Then again some part might just crumble. The Supra wheels will put a LOT more rubber on the earth, so that may break something too. I still have to do the wiring and plumb all the hoses/lines, like coolant, fuel, oil, etc...

Sunday's list includes:

1. Waste gate solution (actuator modification)
2. Compressor housing (Compressor outlet connection and waste gate bracket fab
mounting)
3. Dash/center console removed (help with wiring access, install boost gauge, and try to move
transmission shift cable to passenger side.
4. Complete inventory of parts ready to be coated including black powder on the
compressor housing, intake and charge piping. Black ceramic coating on the
manifold and exhaust housing.

I doubt I'll get to it all, but today was out of the question.

2JZ+D35= BANG! It will happen. Look for an 8.8 with discs out of a 96+ explorer. 31 spline axle shafts and i have seen one stand up to 37's and an LS2.

 

[child9]

Yeah, in case it wasn't clear, the 4wd burnout will not happen until the axles and tcase are upgraded.

I am working right now. Everything on the list above is done, except for number 3. Dash is out, and right now I am working on removing the blower and ducting, as well as the center console. T-handle on the shifter seems a bit tricky. I'll still have all the fluid hoses to terminate and connect, and the cables (throttle, cruise) look like they are going to require some thought. I'm hoping to be able to either relocate whatever part of the a/c is directly inside behind the bulkhead or put some 90 degree fittings on it so the lines are not interfering with the manifold. I expect to be prepped for wiring by COB today.
Pictures and videos will be up later today as well.

 

[FlexdXJ]

Yeah, in case it wasn't clear, the 4wd burnout will not happen until the axles and tcase are upgraded.

I am working right now. Everything on the list above is done, except for number 3. Dash is out, and right now I am working on removing the blower and ducting, as well as the center console. T-handle on the shifter seems a bit tricky. I'll still have all the fluid hoses to terminate and connect, and the cables (throttle, cruise) look like they are going to require some thought. I'm hoping to be able to either relocate whatever part of the a/c is directly inside behind the bulkhead or put some 90 degree fittings on it so the lines are not interfering with the manifold. I expect to be prepped for wiring by COB today.
Pictures and videos will be up later today as well.

For the shifter t-handle, Throw it down in 1-2, sit in the back seat and give it a yank. It should come right out.

 

[child9]

Yep, pops on and off.

Everything is lined up and ready to coat. I almost forgot to put on the blow-off valve flange, and did it as the last thing I did, so no pic yet. Truck is all apart now with dash and ducting out of the interior and both intake and exhaust manifolds removed. Next is getting the shift cable right, finding a solution regarding the relocation/re-routing of the A/C line situation, electrical wiring including battery relocation, power steering/coolant lines, I think I may have to build transmission lines...didn't anticipate that. Fortunately I've got a lot of experience with small tube bending. I also MAY instead try to run hose...we'll see.

 

[child9]

Fly-by of the turbo system.


Waste Gate Actuator testing, off and then on the Jeep.





Having weirdness with the pics, but they will follow shortly.

 

[child9]

The completed turbo/manifold/Internal wastegate setup:

In the Jeep:

 

[child9]

And here are all the pieces ready for coating, except the blow-off valve flange was not yet welded on. All the aluminum will be wrinkle black, and all the stainless will be black ceramic.

Just about ready for the last few major hurdles.

 

[RedChuck]

wow i wish i had the skills for this amazing job so far can't wait to see it finished

 

[child9]

I got the intake and charge piping back today, it looks awesome in wrinkle black. Week or so before I see the ceramic, but I'm sure I won't be waiting on it.
I think my goal is to have the Jeep running and driving in time for my birthday, July 10th. I have limited time to work on the Jeep this weekend, but I am going to be getting some of this done:


Install torque converter-to-flywheel bolts.

Torque crank bolt.

Re-route transmission shift cable to passenger side.

Fabricate mounting bracket for shift cable @ transmission.

Move metal back in bulkhead to make room for fuel rail return fitting.

A/C Line solution found.

Power steering lines connected.

Coolant lines connected.

Transmission lines connected.

Boost gauge installed.

Install water pump pulley and serpentine belt.

Oil pan baffle and lower pan installed.

Turbo oil return line made.

Turbo coolant lines made.

Vacuum lines run and plugged in.

Drive shafts installed.

Front end plugged in and fastened.

Bump stops installed.

Floor pan replaced.

Interior reassembled

Electrical done including blackout switch.

Engine/turbo kit reassembled

Throttle, kickdown, and cruise control cables routed and connected.

Radiator fans installed.

Transmission oil cooler installed.

Relocate overflow, carbon canister, horns, and windshield washer fluid container.

Relocate battery

 

[Keithmania]

Dude, how much do you get done when you do have time?

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

child9,
This is without a doubt some of, if not the best , fabrication I have ever seen. I can only imagine the amount of pre-planning that went into this project. Any plans to dyno the chassis after completion?

 

[child9]

Thanks a LOT O-gauge, if only I heard that from my boss every now and again. That just makes me think about my employment woes, lol. It's whatever, cause that situation is about to improve a lot anyway.

I spent a year on this swap before starting the swap, lol. Mostly that was figuring out the transmission integration and collecting all the info I need to do the wiring. I might be weird, but I'm actually looking forward to doing the electrical. 1. I like electrical. 2. It means I'm nearing completion of the swap.

Man, I want to dyno it so bad, I am just worried about breaking something, which I don't wanna do a day or two after I get her going.

If only I had another t-case and axle upgrade, (hell, another 35 would be ok) on retainer...I'd be a LOT more willing to just smash the petal to the floor when she's on the dyno to see what happens.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Once on the dyno, you are not likely to damage anything as everything is turning. I agree that it and you will need some run in time to adjust for the extra oomph. Keep in mind that the power really doesn't get applied until you are in 3rd gear on the AW4, 4th on a 5 speed.

So you have proven, once again, the 7P theory of Project Management.
Proper
Prior
Planning
Prevents
Piss
Poor
Performance

 

[Ghost]

Once on the dyno, you are not likely to damage anything as everything is turning. I agree that it and you will need some run in time to adjust for the extra oomph. Keep in mind that the power really doesn't get applied until you are in 3rd gear on the AW4, 4th on a 5 speed.

So you have proven, once again, the 7P theory of Project Management.
Proper
Prior
Planning
Prevents
Piss
Poor
Performance

I have sene the D35 blow on grass spining. :scared: Well he was on dirt then hit some grass and :explosion:

 

[child9]

From what I've seen the 35 doesn't respond to sudden changes in applied torque very well. As long as the power comes on smoothly, it may handle the acceleration just fine. We'll see I guess. Still looking for a cost-effective replacement though. It will surely not handle the 4-wheel burnout.

I plan on disabling the kick down cable and see if I can get a low rpm start and a clean pull on the dyno.

O-gauge, I'm curious what you mean by the power being applied in certain gears. As I understand it, the power an engine makes is based solely on the engine's characteristics and rpm...has nothing to do with what gear you are in. The gears simply transmit and multiply torque. They do not create power, though they do use some of it.
For example, on a dyno, no one puts in all the information, so we just pull the car in the closest to one-to-one gear ratio (3rd in a 4 speed auto usually, 4th in a 5 speed manual). It's still more like 3-to-1 though, because of the differential. If someone took the time to enter in the gear ratios for each gear, the diff, and all the other information the dyno software allows for, then a pull in 1st gear should register the same HP as a pull in 4th gear, or a pull on an engine dyno (with drivetrain losses added back in. That info allows the dyno to account for the actual torque multiplication that it is seeing. An engine that makes 300 hp at 5600 rpm does so in EVERY gear. It is the torque we change with the gears, and the load the engine sees varies accordingly. 300 foot pounds is not really enough to move a vehicle very well from a stand still. It's like starting in 4th gear. You still have 3 times the torque the engine outputs at the wheels, and you will be going nowhere fast.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

While the differential ratio and the tire size contribute to the overall transmission of power, the measurements on the dyno are taken in the 1:1 transmission gear for the sake of consistancy of measurement and to remove any extra torque multiplication from the driveline. You are entirely correct that the engine produces a consistant hp for any given rpm. The problem I had on the dyno was getting the AW4 to stay in 3rd and TC lock up. At this point, I believe you have the best knowledge of the AW4 and would ask what you think would be the best way to lock the transmission in 3rd. Think just unplugging the TCM would be good enough to lock it in 3rd? I could live with the TC unlocked if I had to.

To be sure, to know exactly what the engine is doing would require removing it and running it on an engine dyno. The chassis dyno is going to only tell you what is hitting the ground after all the losses and multiplications. In my case, I get a whopping 107.7hp and 168.9ftlbs due to a combination of near 7,000' of altitude and P235/75R15 tires on the 3.55:1 stock gearing. It will be interesting to see what it is with the 4.11:1 gears and P285/75R16 tires that are going to go on. That is if the SuperCharger doesn't happen first...

 

[child9]

By switching to the Toyota version of the trans, I have eliminated the tcu. The 2J ECU controls the trans, as opposed to the separate tcu that the Jeep used. I will figure something out to keep it from dropping into second. Normally I would do this by starting the pull around 3500 rpm, as you would with any other automatic...thing is I want to see what's going on at the lower rpms. When and how the turbo spools up, how the power comes on, and how she shifts are all important to me. I want to see the data on a graph as well.
If the dyno is aware of all that info (tire size, gear ratios, etc) then you should get the same hp rating no matter what. 100% correct in that an engine dyno is the only way to know what the engine is doing, but I'm not too concerned with that. I want to know what we have when the rubber meets the road, cause ultimately that's all that matters.

 

[tbburg]

Does the toy. version of the AW have the same manual mode the AW has? Unplug the trans harness at the trans connectors and the AW goes into "manual" mode. You put it in gear, and it stays there. Or would that throw a code in the engine computer?