2JZGTE swap this summer...

At first I thought there would be no sneaking up on anyone with the wheels and hood, but then I thought, most anyone is probably just going to assume I douche-bagged out the truck with Toyota wheels and a redneck hood mod. The IC may be a bit of a give away, if they notice it. No one is gonna be looking for an IC in the front of a Jeep. It's not gonna be until that Vette gets hung with or possibly beat from one light to the next before someone is gonna be be like, "wait wait wait wait... WTF?" LOL. I'll enjoy it till the armor goes on, then she won't be so quick anymore.
 
Hondas get crushed by our 4.0s stock. I drug a TL-S over the course of 4 lights out the city last week w/ my 4.6, but have gotten slowly walked by a modded s2000 from 60-100(he got me to slow down and he initiated the 1,2,3 hand signal).
 
child9, I have guys that are interested if you can build them manifolds...Sorta like the old PFS log mani, but tubular..
They are in cali & are looking to tuck the turbo down & out of sight because of cops & such. The pfs log manifold does that but are hard to come by now.
Do you think you could fab something up if they could get you deminsions. They are willing to pay!
 
Fun with math: :)

A BMW X5 has a rated 555 hp (crank, I'm sure) and weighs 5368 lbs. That's a crank power to weight ratio of 0.1033.

An SRT-8 has 420 crank hp and weighs 4819 lbs. Crank P/W ratio is .0871.
Mercedes ML63 is .1081, and Porsche Cayenne is .1059, all crank, 'cept for my XJ.


This engine may make around 300 WHEEL hp as is. I want to get it to between 400 and 450 AWTQ. Until the weight changes, the 4WD Cherokee rings in at about 3500 with me in it and a half a tank of gas. Those are WHEEL P/W ratios of .0857 (300hp) and .1142 (400hp).

As far as power to weight comparisons go, this Cherokee may be on par with a 2010 SRT-8 from the time she first fires up, and once it's making 400+ , again, as far as ratios are concerned, she may be able to beat any stock suv on the road, including Mercedes ML63s and Cayenne Turbo Ss.... no?

Plus I think I'm about $3500 to 4 grand MAX into this.

He he he he he he he he he he....
 
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I'm lovin' this build. Any reason you wouldn't leave the front of your "scoop" open, just for air flow to cool the engine compartment? You could do some subtle fender vents to let out some heat, or open up the fire wall just below the cowl, and let the heat out of the cowl vents (you'd have to make the passenger side functional).

Depending on what look you're going for, I think a tube bumper, based on something like this, without the winch, but with a "chin" guard for the IC would be functional, and somewhat hide the fact the you have a giant IC on your ride.

jpfrnt06.jpg


If you're keeping everything black, which I think will look great, it should blend in, somewhat.

Steve
 
I don't have fender venting, so the air is coming in the front and across the hood...meeting with the air coming out of the holes in the hood. More like a cowl. If it was scooping air in, I'm not sure where it could go. It's just like an engine, right? If you are putting more air in, you've got to be able to get that air out.
I want to add more ventilation in the future, I just have not decided on how I want to do it. I would probably like to have something directly by the manifold itself as well.
 
my scoop has a separator in the middle, and the front and rear are both open. the rear vents hot air out and the front feeds directly into a canister with the filter in it then into the intake. Even without any other ways to bring air into the engine bay it still vents enough hot air out of the back that I don't need to use the defroster on a cold morning :D
 
I absolutely plan on getting video of this Jeep doing a 4-wheel burnout... but not until the front bumper situation is addressed, lol. I may or may not need to upgrade all the Jeep drivetrain components too. Dana 30 and 35 with stock NP231, we'll see. I expect everything to last longer because of the way the power will come on. Nice and smooth, no jarring. Then again some part might just crumble. The Supra wheels will put a LOT more rubber on the earth, so that may break something too. I still have to do the wiring and plumb all the hoses/lines, like coolant, fuel, oil, etc...

Sunday's list includes:

1. Waste gate solution (actuator modification)
2. Compressor housing (Compressor outlet connection and waste gate bracket fab
mounting)
3. Dash/center console removed (help with wiring access, install boost gauge, and try to move
transmission shift cable to passenger side.
4. Complete inventory of parts ready to be coated including black powder on the
compressor housing, intake and charge piping. Black ceramic coating on the
manifold and exhaust housing.

I doubt I'll get to it all, but today was out of the question.
 
the d35 is the weak point in your setup, I've seen a buddy's wrangler snap a d35 axle shaft pulling up over the curb to get on his lawn to wash it with too much skinny pedal. the 231 should handle the power just fine but I'd suggest getting a wide chain kit for it, they like to stretch the stock chains.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
the d35 is the weak point in your setup, I've seen a buddy's wrangler snap a d35 axle shaft pulling up over the curb to get on his lawn to wash it with too much skinny pedal. the 231 should handle the power just fine but I'd suggest getting a wide chain kit for it, they like to stretch the stock chains.
Click to expand...

"Stretch"?!? really?!
 
Chain stretch is an issue in pretty much any chain driven transfer case.
 
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