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Moving back the rear axle

bmyohn

bmyohn

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lake Orion, MI
What is the best way to move a leaf spring suspension back 3+"s. I think I can plate the rear "frame" and move the front mount forward, but what is the best way to move the shackle mount further back?
 
i would do some homework and get some new springs then simply move the shackle back.
 
Dragging the shackles across rocks gets old, so when I was contemplating keeping leafs my plan was to keep the same length leafs and shackle setup (relocated via shackle boxes) and move the center pin hole back as far as you want to go. That way you end up with a better departure angle and less beating on the shackles. If you don't run rocks maybe it doesn't matter to you.

Now as far as moving the center pin hole, drilling spring steel sucks and I'd worry about the old hole creating a weak spot and risk breaking the main leaf (because yes I am rather paranoid). So my plan was to either flip the springs and run a traction bar or more likely I would just order a new set of custom leafs with the hole drilled per my specifications.
 
Carbide tipped masonry bit works wonders when drilling through springs.

I opened mine up from 5/16 to 7/16. Took under 20 mins to do 12 leaves.
 
EricsXJ said:
Dragging the shackles across rocks gets old, so when I was contemplating keeping leafs my plan was to keep the same length leafs and shackle setup (relocated via shackle boxes) and move the center pin hole back as far as you want to go. That way you end up with a better departure angle and less beating on the shackles. If you don't run rocks maybe it doesn't matter to you.

Now as far as moving the center pin hole, drilling spring steel sucks and I'd worry about the old hole creating a weak spot and risk breaking the main leaf (because yes I am rather paranoid). So my plan was to either flip the springs and run a traction bar or more likely I would just order a new set of custom leafs with the hole drilled per my specifications.
Click to expand...

this is the first ive heard of this, but i can only think that moves the axle to a weaker part of the leaf spring.

i have no experience doing that, just doesnt seem right. 3 inches or so would put the leaf perch towards the very end of the bottom leaf. unless perhaps you are drilling each leaf gradually closer to the original center pin hole to kind of center the leaves.

i probably wouldnt do that without a traction bar.
 
I moved mine using the Ruffstuff plus 3 perchs and plates. Worked great and i didn't mess with any shackles or springs. Super easy.
 
M.O.R.E mounts can go 1" forward or one inch back . not much but its a little
 
KRAKER said:
This is what I did. It yields about 3" stretch and works super bitching.

Stock Bronco II rear leafs, relocation brackets and 1.5" shackles. It ended up up at about 5.5-6" lift over stock.
Click to expand...

thats another option i forgot about. there is a PDF floating around with leaf spring rates, lengths, and center pin measurements... finding something stock that will fit the bill and adjusting the shackle with relocation brackets is deffinantly a cheaper option than custom leafs.
 
I built new front hangers. Stock, +1", +2", and +3" locations. Built my own UBE's that are straight up or +/- 1.5". Currently I've got the leafs at +3" for some stretch.

a3z8cp.jpg
 
just use the mounts i said and be done, the least amount of dicking around and the least expense. done and done!
 
foxwar71 said:
I built new front hangers. Stock, +1", +2", and +3" locations. Built my own UBE's that are straight up or +/- 1.5". Currently I've got the leafs at +3" for some stretch.

a3z8cp.jpg
Click to expand...

more booger welds
 
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