Your Oil Recomendation

Basically the Clean HM has zinc levels around 800ppm. Whether that is enough for a flat tappet came, even though moly and boron is present, is a tough question. I say no, and only run the oil's i know are 1100-1200ppm Zinc!
 
RyanM said:
This thread went from good info to crap!
Click to expand...

Heheheheh.... I guess it all depends on what one regards as "good info." and "crap"!! :laugh2: :laugh:


I find that oil and oil filter threads get people all worked up. A person will ask for opinions then some people start giving their opinions based on here-say, rumor, wives-tales, or obsolete information. Then when others start countering with fact, science, and recent information the first group gets all bent out of shape. :twak:

Oh well.. What 'cha gonna' do??? hasta


:cheers:
 
Ya its all funny to me, really interesting how technical oils are. Im like a lot of you I want to run the best if I can, racing jetskis is my thing so I care more about oil and motors, etc in jetskiing more than jeepin. However, I could run quicksilver junk imo in my race motor and it could run forever just fine, I prefer amsoil interceptor, but same goes for our cars theres jeeps out there that are well beyong 200,000 probably with long intervals and crap oil, and they run just fine.
 
JNickel101 said:
Wow, anyone tried that ZDDP Plus stuff on Ebay? Looks pretty concentrated....

Or is it just snake oil? I guess you'd have to check your UOA after using it huh?
Click to expand...

I have been using it, I purchased a 6 pack of it on "E" bay & add 1 bottle to 6 quarts of mobil 1 10W30. It does quiet down the tapping/clicking noise that seemed to appear just as the reformulated oil started appearing.
Snake oil? I would also like to know the answer myself, if it is doing it's job or just a waste of money?
 
Where the hell do you find the rating your talking about? I'm looking at a bottle of M-1 high mileage full synth. The only thing I see is the stuff on the back, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4-04, API SL/CF. Is this it?
 
API SL has the highest levels of ZDDP off shelf. (Unless you are somewhere with OLD stockpile)

I found the 'new' 2007 Rotella Synthetic finally today at my wal-mart. In the newer style bottle as the new CJ4 Rotella is using.

Still SL/CF :) I'm doing a Virgin oil sample on this stuff immediately, stay tuned for updated rotella syn Zinc numbers

io15k3.jpg


Sorry about the drunk picture
 
The Mobil 1 hi/mi has 1000ppm ZDDP so it's a lil shy of the recommended 1100-1300ppm for our flat tappets. However, I'm sure even when yall were using various SL rated dinos, that some had levels equal or lower than 1000ppm.
 
I just took a quick read through this thread, so here's my 2 cents. I run Brad Penn's "Green" partial synthetic oil in my 96. It is not too expensive (I think its $3 a quart) and is intended for flat tappet street engines. In the winter My jeep gets 4 quarts 10W30 and one quart of Marvel to thin it out for the cold CT mornings. I run an NAPA filter on mine.
One thing that many people do not think about is where the oil comes from. Depending on what died millions of years ago the crude that is pumped out of the ground has diferent properties. For example Pennsylvenia crude has the best molecular structure for engines and Venezuelan oil is the best to make machining/cuting oil from. I think middle eastern crude is the easiest to make into fuel, some of it can actually pumped out of the ground, filtered and burnt in turbine power plants. Not to knock other oils, Any oil can be made into a good engine oil with the correct additives.
I have not seen GM's new EOS mentioned here. This new stuff is a thicker almost feels a little sticky and the most noticable diference is that its red. The shop I work in uses it for head assembly (in the valve guides) mixed with a little 30weight.
COMP CAMS also sells an oil additive for the flat tappet lifters.
Joe Gibbs recently releaced their "Hot Rod" oil. It has the street detergents and ZDDP, but that is $9 a quart.

~Alex
 
wolfmanxj said:
Where the hell do you find the rating your talking about? I'm looking at a bottle of M-1 high mileage full synth. The only thing I see is the stuff on the back, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4-04, API SL/CF. Is this it?
Click to expand...

API SL is Mobil 1 HM. Its really good oil for our jeeps!
 
I'm now confused. We have different oils up here, can't find Delvac, our Walmarts dont carry rotella, only found 0W50 at Canadian Tire. Was going with Mobil 1 high mileage but don't want to go below 1100 ppm zddp's. I just want to pick an oil and stick with it. Preferably not having to go to 10 bucks a quart amsoil. Thanks
 
I wonder if Canada is making motor oil out of the Alberta sand. I think its called syncrude. Then make a mineral type oil from synthetic crude, I wonder if that would be cheaper?
 
I wouldn't sweat it too bad. Think about the people that are pouring in SM yellow penzzoil 400ppm Zinc :scared:
 
tkjeeper said:
I'm now confused. We have different oils up here, can't find Delvac, our Walmarts dont carry rotella, only found 0W50 at Canadian Tire. Was going with Mobil 1 high mileage but don't want to go below 1100 ppm zddp's. I just want to pick an oil and stick with it. Preferably not having to go to 10 bucks a quart amsoil. Thanks
Click to expand...

Yeah, it is confusing when 100 people tell you something different each time. Just stick with the Mobil 1 High millage. Its really good oil. Don't be fooled, another 100 ppm ZDDP will make a difference, you will never ever notice it though.

I hear ya about Amsoil. Although here its only 6 bucks a quart for API cert. oil. But thats why M1 HM is so good for me, its only 28 bucks for 6 quarts + M1 filter every 6 months. If your concerned about the ZDDP levels just hop on ebay and order some of the ZDDP+ additve. Or go to a Ford dealer and get some GM EOS equivalent.
 
That was over exaggeration. BUT there were some guys a couple years ago getting around 500 numbers, penzzoil rep got involved and it turned out to be a bad batch!

Penzzoil Platinum is a quality synthetic that is comparable to regular M1. Don't know if it is group III or IV because they've switched back and forth a couple of times.
 
Does anybody have the ZDDP specs for Chevron DELO? I have heard it has 1400 ppm but not from a reliable source.
 
88 Wagonman said:
Does anybody have the ZDDP specs for Chevron DELO? I have heard it has 1400 ppm but not from a reliable source.
Click to expand...
Yes -That sounds about right for the CI-4/SL Formulation :lecture: (My advanced had about 5 bottles left :))
Chevron oil's have been around for long time, tested time and time again.
I haven't seen any data on the new CJ-4 stuff, but I would only Imagine that it is around 1200 zinc and 1100-1000 Phosporus, like the other 'new' 2007 HD oil's trying to meet the new diesel motor specs. I think I read it's now got Moly, but I haven't researched this stuff as I used too.
 
sooo i was up for an oil change, and after reading this thread i took the advice mobil1 gave stumpalump, and went with the 15w50 extended performance full syn... as soon as i put it in and started it up i noticed louder knocking both in the top of the engine, and the bottom end... i figured it just needed to circulate, so i let it run for about 15 min, and it did quiet down a little bit... now after driving it about 250 miles, it still is knocking louder than it did before. a little history on what i was running: the last 2 years i have been putting the 10w30 extended performance full syn in every 3-5k just because i have over 200k on the engine.

thoughts?

d-giggity
 
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