what size tubing for rear D44 truss?

[Jeepin Jason]

I'm going to be building a traction bar soon, and I'm debating on whether or not to truss my XJ D44 and they build the upper traction bar mount off the truss. Anyway, I was wondering what size tubing I should be looking at to build the truss with?

I guess my real concern is with the traction bar tearing the axle tubing if I do a "traditional" traction bar mount.

 

[CRASH]

Nemo,

I built one for the 8.8 out of 1.75" x .120" tube, bent over the diff, and teh void filled with 12g plate. My traction bar mount is welded to the tube near the lower hole, and to the plate and the 1.75" near the upper hole.

I have pics. My computer is uncooperative on downloading them at the moment, though. Standby.

 

[Jeepin Jason]

Thanks. I didn't actually find much doing a search on "truss". I was doing a title-search though.

On the XJ D44 that has the 2.75" OD tubes, do you think it would be worthwhile to do a truss for the upper traction bar mount? Or do you think a regular mount with a gusset or two would do?

 

[CRASH]

I will never build another traction bar mount without the use of a truss for extra strength.

Traction bars put a hellacious strain on axle tubes. Weld the tubes to the center section as well. Make sure you attach the truss to the center section as well.

Clean, pre-heat, MIG, post heat. Let it cool as slowly as possible. Varying thermal contraction rates is what causes cracking. Get them to cool somewhat together and it won't crack.

CRASH

 

[Jeepin Jason]

ok, hopefully last question for a while, do you think 3/16" is enough for the mounting tabs for a traction bar, or do they need to be like 1/4", or even thicker?

 

[CRASH]

Are you doing 4 tabs or one large mount?

I wouldn't recommend tabs......the key for traction bar mounts is SPREAD THE LOAD. Get as much weld area as you can. Make your mount go from the 6 o'clock position on the tube to the 12 o'clock position.

I don't want to seem paranoid about this, but I've wrecked a housing twice with inadequate mounts.

The errors of youth......

 

[Jeepin Jason]

well, I figured if I do a truss, it'd be easier to do tabs for the mounts, but if I do a "stand alone" mount I'd probably user some 3" x ?/?" plate and do something like your old one:

(pic is huge so I'm just linking to it)
http://home.off-road.com/~xjs/temp/DCP00904.JPG

Or the one that gearwhine has/had:

And probably run some gussets out along the tube from the outer bracket.

And I was thinking of rotating it back to around 8 o'clock and 2 o'clock to help ground clearance, like Billavista's old setup:

(don't know if pirate allows image linking)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Anti_wrap_bar/Dcp_2130.jpg

 

[CRASH]

My new one is my old one, rotated backward and fitted to the truss on the top side. I used 1/4" on the mount.

I don't think tabs are gonna cut it.

CRASH

 

[gearwhine]

I just did a search for my name looking for a different post, but I saw this one. Mine held up beautifuly for the summer of 04. I felt I wheeled it hard enough. I have not even driven my jeep since then though, been too busy. So I don't have any long term opinions on how mine is holding up. I'm not too worried about it though.

My mount is made of 3x3x3/16" box tube, one side cut out, then that C piece cut in half, and welded a 1/2" sliver lengthwise to make room for the bushings.

I cut a semi circle with a 2.75" hole saw, and welded completely around the outside edge, one edge is welded to the center section...all pre and post heating included. Then I did small stich welds on the inner part of it, not fully, since if I want to take it off, it will be a bitch to get to those welds. I've got well over a foot of weld bead on it. I'm not really worried about it, but I've got the stuff for a truss and will be doing it once I get to work on my jeep again. _nicko_